Peonies can be left in the garden unattended for a long time. But on occasion, it’s important to relocate established plants. To improve flowering, move peonies that are sheltered by tall trees or shrubs to a sunny location. The peony may need to be relocated in order to redesign a perennial bed or border. Plants that are large and robust can be dug up and divided for further growth.
The ideal month for transplanting established peonies is September. Cut the peony stems at or just above ground level to start. Next, thoroughly excavate each plant’s perimeter and its base. Keep as much of the root system as you can. Replant the peony right away in a sunny, well-drained area.
Large peony clumps must be divided in a number different ways. Shake the clump carefully to remove any loose soil from the root system after you’ve dug up the plant. Section off the cluster using a big knife. Each division needs to establish a strong root system and at least three to five buds (eyes). Smaller divisions will take longer to mature into beautiful plants.
The optimal conditions for peonies are full light and well-drained soil. Choose an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day when choosing a planting site. Avoid standing in the shade next to big trees and plants. Compost, peat moss, or leaf mold used in significant quantities can typically improve poorly drained soils.
When planting a peony, make sure the hole is big enough to fit the plant’s root system comfortably. With the buds one to two inches below the soil’s surface, place the peony plant in the hole. (Peonies frequently don’t bloom successfully if the buds are deeper than two inches.) As you backfill the hole, compact the soil around the plant as you fill it with soil. then thoroughly rinse. Peonies should be spaced three to four feet apart.
Apply a four to six inch layer of mulch over the newly planted peonies in the late fall (mid-November to early December). Pine needles and weed-free straw are great mulching materials. Mulching keeps the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing in the winter, which could lift the plants out of the ground. Early in the spring, before growth starts, remove the mulch.
Peonies that were transplanted might not bloom well the first spring. However, by the third or fourth year, the number of flowers should increase quickly.
Is it simple to transplant peonies?
If you’re remodeling a planting border, that’s another incentive to be transplanting peonies. Peonies may need to be lifted and moved if your garden is being renovated. Or you could just wish to divide and grow more peonies so you can add them to your yard or give them to family and friends. When peonies are planted too tightly together, the clumps can get crowded as they age and may need to be pulled and replanted.
Peony transplantation is generally a task that doesn’t need to be done for 10 to 15 years. September is the ideal month for peony transplants. Trim leafy stems down to 2 to 3 inches above the ground. Under the peony clump, dig with a sharp shovel. About a foot away from the stems, start digging. Try to cut as few roots as you can while digging around and beneath plants.
Lift the peony clump from the hole after loosening the soil. Put it over a tarp. Shake the peony plant gently to allow soil to drift away from the roots. Section off or divide the roots of the peonies. There should be three to five eyeballs, or growth points, in each division. The areas on the roots known as eyes are where stems and leaves are produced.
Use a sharp knife to cut out any mushy or unhealthy areas of the peony roots as you remove the soil from them. Before planting, let the root parts dry naturally and develop a callus or hard coating. After planting, the callus helps avoid root rot. Fungicide application to peony roots also lessens the likelihood of rot.
With the exception of the Southern and Southwestern regions, where afternoon shade is preferable, pick a planting location that receives full sun (six to eight hours per day). Make the planting holes big enough to accommodate the roots and divisions of peonies. In cold climates, plant the eyeballs 2 inches below the soil’s surface; in warm climates, 1 inch. For each peony that has been transplanted in a chilly area, add some loose winter mulch. The layer should be 4 to 6 inches thick in order to prevent frost heave. Early in the spring, before new growth starts, remove the mulch.
Don’t count on peonies to bloom the following spring after transplantation. The second year after planting, you might get a few blooms, but it’s the third and fourth years that flower numbers should return.
Is transplanting mature peonies possible?
The optimum time to transplant peonies is in September, when they have finished growing for the summer and are beginning to hibernate. However, you may also dig out the entire root ball in the spring and plant it before the plants begin to sprout new growth for the year. Peonies will probably be too stressed out to survive if disturbed at any other time of the year.
How late can peony be transplanted?
Pick the right season of the year. Peony plants that have already been established should be moved in the fall, at least six weeks before the ground freezes. As a result, the plant has more time to recover before hibernating for the winter. The best months to transplant a peony are September or October in many parts of North America.
- Reduce the stems. Trim the peony stems to just above the soil line if it hasn’t already died back for the winter. This will make it simpler to determine the actual length of the root system. It is best to carefully dispose of the clippings because peonies are prone to fungal illnesses.
- Pull the peony up. Dig carefully all around the plant. To protect the root system, keep your distance of 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm) from the edge of the stems. Once the root ball can be taken out, keep digging. The ability of the peony to recover may be compromised if the roots are broken when being pulled out of the ground by a person.
- Cut the peony in half. Cut the root system into pieces using a heavy-duty knife or your shovel. (It will be simpler to work if you rinse any extra soil from the root ball.) There should be three to five eyes on each component. The growing shoots for the following year are these eyes.
- Pick a suitable place before transplanting. Peonies prefer soil that drains well and full sun. Peonies should be spaced 24 to 36 inches (61 to 91 cm) apart. Peonies and shrubs or other perennials that might get bigger over time should be spaced apart sufficiently.
- Root divisions should be replanted. Transplanting peony root divisions as soon as feasible is advised. Prepare a hole that can hold the root ball. Place the eyes no more than 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface of the earth. Peonies produce fewer blooms when planted too deeply. Water after compacting the dirt tightly around the root ball.
- The transplanted peony needs mulch. To keep the newly transplanted flowers safe during the winter, spread a thick layer of mulch over them. Before the spring growth season, remove the mulch.
If the flowers appear a little scarce the first spring after relocating established peonies, don’t be concerned. It can take a peony three to four years after transplantation to become well-established and begin to blossom profusely.
Do peonies require direct sun?
- Keep plants neat by deadheading and prune as needed (herbaceous only).
- When peonies become congested and produce fewer blooms, divide the plants.
- When the blossoms feel like soft marshmallows, cut the stems for bouquets. Water should contain Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers.
When the peonies blossom, you can finally start to feel the arrival of summer. Around Memorial Day, when spring bulb flowers are starting to fade and summer blooms are beginning to emerge, these stunning perennials bloom profusely. Peonies are resistant to deer and rabbits, which is useful for gardeners who frequently experience issues with animals eating their plants. Peonies are frequently seen blooming despite years of neglect if you drive through old cemeteries or abandoned farmsteads. That is because to how simple peony are to grow!
How to Choose Peonies
Peonies come in four different varieties. They are forest peonies, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, and intersectional peonies, in the order of blooming time. Herbaceous peonies, which thrive in zones 3–7, and tree peonies, which flourish in zones 3–9, are the two most popular varieties. Herbaceous plants often reach heights of two to three feet and spreads of two to four feet. With some types reaching heights of 7 feet, tree peony are more closely related to tiny shrubs. The type of peony you plant will depend on where you live and the style you’re going for because all peonies require similar maintenance. The focus of this paper will be on tree and herbaceous peony.
When to Plant Peonies
Fall is the ideal season to plant peonies. This is often when peonies purchased from a catalog will be delivered. It’s okay to plant peonies when you see them flowering and for sale in containers in the spring.
Where to Plant Peonies
Peonies require at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day, though in zones 8 and 9, some shade from the sweltering afternoon sun is beneficial. Additionally, picking a location with sufficient air circulation is crucial to avoiding fungal illnesses.
How to Plant Peonies
In somewhat damp, well-drained soil, peonies thrive. Dig a hole, take the plant from the pot, and plant container-grown herbaceous peonies (the kind you buy in pots) so that the top of the root ball is level with the earth (any deeper and the peonies will not bloom). Fill up the area surrounding the plant by combining the discarded soil with an equal amount of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers.
Before planting bare root herbaceous peonies, give them a brief dip in a basin of water to rehydrate them. Create a planting hole that is big enough to fit the roots, mix the soil as previously mentioned, and place a mound of the blended soil in the middle of the planting hole. Place the roots atop the mound and let them fan out and descend. Using the remaining blended soil, fill in the remaining portion of the hole, making sure that the “No more than 1 to 2 inches of soil should be present around the plant’s eyes (or growth buds) in order for it to bloom.
Deeper planting is required for tree peony. Unless they are grafted, peonies should be planted in the same soil combination as above, 2 to 4 inches deep at the crown (where the roots meet the stem). Check the label to see if the plant has been grafted, and then plant it such that the “The plant’s graft union, where the grafted top and rootstock are united, is located 4 to 6 inches below the soil line.
How to Stake Peonies
Peony stems are prone to toppling over after it rains, and the blossoms can become big and heavy. For herbaceous peonies, the best approach is to cover each plant in a peony cage in the spring, before the leaves begin to sprout (picture metal supports with rings for the flowers to grow up through). This is far more effective than attempting to hold each flower stalk separately, and it also looks nicer than wrapping the entire plant in string and cinching it in like a belt.
One stake can be used to stake tree peonies. Place the stake next to the stem in the ground, and then use a piece of twine to loosely secure the plant to the stake.
How to Water Peonies
When planting, give everything plenty of water. When the spring foliage begins to emerge and the flower buds start to show, give the plants another drink. Although peonies do not have a thirst, they will benefit from watering during dry spells for a year following the first planting.
How to Feed Peonies
Your peony will benefit from a powerful combination of care that includes excellent soil and the ideal plant food. Give peonies the nutrition they require by feeding them Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food in addition to the soil improvements indicated above for stunning color and more flowers than unfed plants. Peonies should be fed twice a year: the first time, right after they emerge in the spring (when the new shoots are 2 to 3 inches tall but before the flower buds are pea-sized), and the second time, in the middle of the growing season (about three months after the first feeding), to help them develop sturdy roots before the arrival of winter. Make sure you adhere to label instructions.
How to Help Prevent Problems with Peonies
Although mostly fuss-free, peonies occasionally experience fungal issues. Browning and failure to open flower buds are symptoms of botrytis. Brown patches on leaves are a symptom of some fungus illnesses. Infected blooms and leaves should be simply pruned off and disposed of (do not compost) in order to control these problems. Additionally, keep the plants neat, remove old foliage at the end of the season, and deadhead spent blooms. Peony blooms occasionally draw ants, but they won’t hurt the plants, so you can ignore them. (Contrary to popular belief, peonies do not require ants to blossom.)
How to Prune Peonies
Cut back each flower stalk on herbaceous peonies once all of the blooms have faded to just above a leaf, low enough so that the stem doesn’t protrude above the rest of the leaves. Unruly tree peony can be trimmed either in the spring or the fall (right before plants go dormant). However, any stems you trim back in the fall will not blossom the following spring (as you will be cutting off the flower buds). After blossoming in the spring, you can prune. Anytime you choose to prune, be careful not to take more than one-third of the plant with you.
How to Divide Peonies
It is ideal to leave tree peony alone (undivided) so they can flourish for many generations in the garden. If the clumps have become too large or the flowering has slowed, herbaceous peonies can be divided. Herbaceous peonies can be divided by digging up the entire clump and rinsing it off to reveal the plant’s numerous roots and eyes (or buds). Leave as least one large root and three to four eyes per clump after cutting the plant apart with clean, sharp pruners. Replant, adhering to the bare root peony planting directions above. The plants might or might not flower the first year after dividing, so keep that in mind.
How to Cut Peonies for Bouquets
Timing is crucial. Buds should feel roughly as firm as a soft marshmallow when squeezed, which is known as the “soft marshmallow stage.” Examining the bud’s coloration is another method for determining when to cut. The majority of the bud’s exterior should remain green, but you should be able to make out approximately half an inch of the flower’s vibrant petals. Although cutting the flowers at this point lessens the possibility of bringing ants inside with them, it is still advisable to inspect the flowers before bringing them inside. Plants should open up when stems are placed in a vase of water. For longer-lasting blooms, change the water every few days and apply Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers (vs. water only).
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