The extreme heat and dry conditions have forced many growers to scramble to tend to and harvest their stressed fields and gardens, including here on our farm in the Skagit Valley and throughout much of the Western United States. While many flowers bloom profusely in this kind of weather, it is crucial to know the optimum times to harvest and ways to care for your fresh cut blooms immediately after they are cut if you want your flowers to last as long as possible—especially with the added stress of high temperatures. (This is referred to as “stage of harvest” and “post-harvest handling” in the language of flower farmers.)
Here are some of my favorite hints for avoiding heat waves and getting the longest vase life possible from 10 high summer flower varietals.
Zinnias: To ensure a long vase life, zinnias must be harvested at the proper time. Wait too long, and the blossoms will swiftly fade; harvest too soon, and the stalks will sag and droop. The “wiggle test” is a pretty easy way to determine whether your zinnias are ready for harvest. Simply take hold of the stalk a few inches below the flower and gently shake it. The stem will be delicate and flexible if it is young. When you wriggle the stem, it should stay rigid and straight if the plant is ready to be harvested. Cut time has come! To create a long, sturdy stem, deeply cut the plant. Don’t be hesitant to clip off lateral sprouts on the main stem you just plucked; remove the foliage as well. Because zinnias are “cut and come again” flowers, they will continue to grow all season long even after being severely pruned.
We cut zinnias and place them directly into clean, fresh water that has either been supplemented with a drop of chlorine or a CVBn pill. The little conditioning pills, which are frequently marketed for gerber daisies, are actually ideal for all of the “dirty flowers with hairy stems that easily gather dirt and bacteria that can muddy up the water.” The hottest time of the year is when zinnias blossom continuously, and they also enjoy heat throughout the post-harvest period. One of the few flowers we don’t treat in the cooler before delivery or design work is this one. Simply said, we keep them out of direct sunlight in a dark, shaded area of our studio. These few easy steps will give you gorgeous, long-lasting blossoms that last 7–10 days in a vase.
Note: In general, certified organic agriculture does not permit the use of commercial flower food. Using bleach or hot water and harvesting at the right stage are crucial if you have certification. To give your flowers the longest possible vase life even if you are not certified organic, CVBn tablets and other hydration and conditioning options are worth the extra money.
Basil: During the height of the summer, we nearly always add at least one or two stems of Cardinal, Oriental Breeze, Lemon, or Cinnamon basil in our mixed bouquets of flowers for grocery store clients. When the flower heads start to appear and the stems start to harden, I pick the basil. To keep them from wilting, I treat them with Quick Dip (a non-organic alternative) or boiling water (an organic alternative). As these plants wilt quickly, be cautious to harvest them in the cool of the morning or evening. Basil doesn’t like the cold, just like zinnias, so keep them out of the refrigerator to finish their conditioning. The vase is frequently where stems root, and they should last 7 to 10 days.
The fuzzy, aromatic leaves of scented geraniums are a must-have for bouquets, but if you don’t take a few simple precautions, they could wilt easily. In order to avoid the heat of the day, I always attempt to trim the scented geraniums first thing in the morning. I sliced them, placed them in cool water, and gave them 3–4 hours to rest and condition before arranging them. Dip the bottom 2-3 in boiling water for 5-7 seconds or dip the stems in Quick Dip if they are still wilting.
Another flower that is prone to wilting is the hydrangea. Perhaps more significant than the harvesting stage is how you hydrate the produce after it has been sliced. My secret is to cut them when they are still chilly, use Quick Dip quick hydration solution, or cut them into hot water for organic production. I am familiar with some flower growers who swear by dipping the just-cut stems in alum powder (found in the grocery store’s spice aisle), while others would soak the entire bloom in water before use to prevent wilting.
Cosmos: Cosmos generally don’t have a very long vase life, but if you cut them at the proper point, you can extend their beauty. Cosmos should be cut when just one petal is beginning to unfold, and once that happens, let the vase’s other buds and blossoms bloom.
Sunflowers: Harvesting the blooms just as the first few petals begin to lift off of the central disk and removing all but the top few leaves will give your sunflowers the longest vase life possible. This can be challenging for beginners since it still appears to be “closed” and not ready to pick, but if you cut them early, you can prevent bug damage and enjoy longer vase life. These people, who are referred to as “dirty flowers,” may benefit from some bleach in the water or from being cut into a pail of water that has been CVBn-treated.
Celosia: When harvesting crested celosias, also known as “cock’s comb,” wait until the crests are fully grown (or a bit sooner is good too), but before the plant begins to produce seeds. Before plucking celosias with feathers, let them stretch and become feathery. Make sure to remove around 3/4 of the leaves after cutting and submerge them in cool water.
Cerinthe: Harvest during the coldest part of the day, then immediately treat stems by putting the bottom 2-3 inches in boiling water for 7–10 seconds, followed by a cool water bath. After harvest, stems become extremely floppy, but once hydrated, Cerinthe can last up to a week in a vase.
Harvest rudbeckia when the flowers start to unfold. Black Eyed Susans are infamous for fast turning their water murky. By reducing this and extending their vase life, you can expect a vase life of 7 to 10 days by adding a few drops of bleach to the water.
If you have any more advice or methods for gathering high summer blossoms and extending their vase life, please let me know. Please share any more advice in the section below.
Do zinnias bloom again after being deadheaded?
One of the most crucial tasks in learning how to cultivate zinnias is to deadhead the blooms in order to keep your plants in bloom. By extending the blooming period of the plant, deadheading zinnias encourages the flowers to continue to bloom.
Cutting back the Zinnia flower heads after the blooms start to fade can encourage fresh growth. Because of their incredible hardiness, zinnias can be deadheaded without causing any damage to the plant.
Decide how far back you want to trim the stem to deadhead zinnias. Then, make a precise cut immediately above a row of leaves using a pair of sharp garden scissors. The plant will be encouraged to grow new stems and blossoms where you cut if you do this.
How are zinnias cut and cut again?
The strong, powerful plants of this well-liked, vintage zinnia bear continually for months, p…
The strong, tenacious plants of this well-liked, traditional zinnia bear constantly for months, giving armfuls of delicious, candy-bright flowers to enjoy both inside and out. The gorgeous color palette of Cut and Come Again includes shades of cream, salmon, rose pink, scarlet, butter yellow, magenta, red, and cheery orange. The colorful 2 to 3 inch blooms have numerous petals and occur in double, single, and semi-double flower shapes. The centers of the flowers open into a circle of golden stars.
TO START DIRECTLY IN THE GARDEN
When the risk of frost has passed and the temperature is warm and above 50F (10C) both day and night, sow seeds in a well-tended seed bed in direct sunlight. Plant seeds in rows spaced 12 inches apart, 3 inches apart, and cover with dirt that is about 1/2 inch deep. While waiting for germination, keep the soil evenly moist.
TO START EARLY INDOORS
Plant seeds in a container of seed starting mix 1/2 inch deep and 3 inches apart four to five weeks before the latest day of frost. Until seedlings are prepared to be planted outside when temperatures climb over 50F (10C) day and night, keep warm, wet, and with a strong light source.
GROWING NOTES
In regular garden soil and full sun, zinnias thrive. Before seedlings become congested, thin for big, a lot of flowers; appropriate spacing and consistent, even watering assist zinnias stay productive and ward against mildew. For the longest vase life, choose flowers when the blossoms are first opening and the petals are taut. To keep plants branching low and producing the greatest blooms for summer-long bouquets, cut long stems well back into the plant.
Does zinnia pruning encourage growth?
Zinnias require regular trimming to thrive and to encourage growth. Although trimming zinnias isn’t difficult, it is crucial to know exactly how to do it in order to avoid harming the plant. The most important thing is to avoid heavily pruning the plant. This will only have a detrimental effect on how your zinnias grow.
If you want a bunch of zinnias with brightly colored blooms, deadheading is essential. To induce the formation of new flowers, the old blossoms are chopped off in this manner. The zinnia plant will grow lower to the ground if you deadhead it low on the stem; the opposite is true if you deadhead it higher up the stem. Since zinnias are so hardy, any option works quite well.
Find flowers that are brown or withering to know when to deadhead a zinnia. This is how you can tell when it’s appropriate to cut them off so the other blooms may shine. Cut off each blossom one at a time using hand pruning shears, being sure to leave plenty of the stalk. It’s acceptable if you remove some foliage as well.