A bouquet of flowers is traditionally dried by being hung upside down. Hang the flowers upside down in a place that is well-ventilated and out of direct sunlight. Gather the flower stems and fasten them with a rubber band or piece of string. (An empty closet is an excellent choice!) You will have exquisite dried flowers in soft, vintage tones after a few weeks.
How are cut zinnias best preserved?
Don’t just snip zinnias for bouquets; take your time. The lifespan of the zinnia vase can be greatly increased by correctly cutting the stems. The Old Farmer’s Almanac advises going outside to cut your zinnias early in the morning or later in the evening. You want to avoid the midday sun. Additionally, keep an eye out for blossoms that have begun to open but are still closed, since these will stay longer.
Use pointed pruners or shears to guarantee a clean cut while trimming the zinnias. Chicago Botanic Garden advises cutting the stems at a little slant immediately above a bud junction. When arranging your flowers, leave as much length as you can so that you can trim it to a vase length afterwards. Make sure to remove all of the stem’s leaves, excluding those closest to the flower. To keep the zinnia cut flowers hydrated, place them in a jar with lukewarm water as you work.
To avoid sap loss once inside, recut the stems under water and then scald them. To achieve this, place the stems over a candle flame or into a pot of boiling water for 20 seconds. To encourage hydration, leave the chopped zinnias in a jar of lukewarm water for several hours or even overnight. The process will be aided by placing the container in a cold, dark environment.
Freshly cut zinnias survive how long?
One of the few gateway flowers that started me down the path of cultivating cut flowers was the zinnia. You would be aware that when I first started producing veggies, I exclusively grew flowers for companion planting if you had read any of my previous writings. If you haven’t been following my previous blog postings (and who wouldn’t? ), I’ll explain. Here is a brief summary:
I had made an effort to focus on cultivating flowers that would assist my veggies in some way, whether it be medicinal, gastronomic, or through partner planting (if you want to know my top five flowers to grow in your vegetable garden read my blog here). (I know, it’s like you don’t even know me!) Fresh flowers weren’t a top concern. With the exception of their potential usefulness to pollinators, zinnias weren’t really on the list. Since I’ve always adored the zinnias in my in-garden, law’s I couldn’t help but buy that Burpee packet of zinnias.
Let me also tell you. I bought that zinnia seed packet really late in July. Do you recognize the bravery in that? possibly the idiocy. When someone informed me it was too late, I assumed they were probably correct, but what could it hurt for a few dollars? I had a lucky year. It also gave me the impression that cultivating zinnias would be simple going forward. They ought to be simple. They grow quickly, can be planted directly, and aren’t as voracious as some other flowers. Yes, it’s simple. they were in their first year! Man, I picked those folks up till November of that particular year. That small arrangement of salvia, marigolds, zinnias, and snippets of calendula inspired me.
Yes, I’ll demonstrate that configuration once more. I received a fistful of flowers in a vase from my sister-in-law who had delivered flowers for my birthday a few months earlier. She gave me some flowers and a straightforward hourglass vase, which I treasured. Her gift had changed that frigid November night into something different. My life changed and became something new. It was those zinnias.
It’s crazy! It always astounds me how much the flowers and I have changed when I go down memory lane with the flowers.
Even though I adored zinnias that year, I had grown to dislike them over the previous few years. True, it’s crazy! Who could be against simple-to-grow, prolific flowers? Me. The three flowers cosmos, sunflowers, and zinnias are listed as the basic package for a flower farmer when you search “start flower farming” on Google. Foolproof. Not earwig and frost proof, that is.
We have seen early and then late frosts during the past few years. Even when planting zinnias outside while according to the Carson Valley golden rule for tomatoes (for those unfamiliar with our local regulations, plant after Carson Valley days). My poor zinnias were still stunted, purple, or blackened by it. The earwigs chewed, nibbled, and eventually scarfed down the ones that did live. The earwigs proceeded to eat their petals after the sad few that passed that test. I obviously didn’t have as many zinnias as I had hoped.
I was annoyed. Heartbroken. I was prepared to give up on the zinnias, but Graham persisted in reassuring me that they would be worthwhile with a little perseverance and good fortune.
I have lovely zinnias this year! It was the magnificent queen lime series, not just ordinary zinnias. I can only grow so many different kinds because to my restricted space, so I just grow what I enjoy (and I hope you do too!). Some cultivators adore the queen lime varieties, while others don’t. It’s me, camp love. Each flower is unique and has lovely coloration that occasionally even seems vintage! Additionally, I can never have enough flowers that serve as a unifying element in my design work. These “bridge” colors provide a pleasing flow and bridge the gap between other hues that would otherwise be glaring. I have to admit that this year, “Queen Lime Orange,” with her sherbet-colored designs, has definitely won my heart.
Enough with the philosophical ramblings. Talk about zinnias now. Like the majority of our favorite heat-loving flowers, zinnias are native to Mexico. This explains why they dislike frosts but thrive in our summer heat. The Aztecs raised zinnia plants. Not shocking. The Aztecs were masters at cultivating and raising a wide variety of favored crops (like amaranth and tomatillos). Eventually, zinnias were introduced to Europe, where they received the name we now use for them—Professor Zinn, a botanist.
So how do you raise these gorgeous plants? This section is really simple. Prior to the last frost in your area (about four weeks), you can start them indoors. You can direct seed them in the garden after the last frost. Sow new seeds every four weeks for a constant summer crop. Pro tip: don’t let them get root bound if you want those fluffy double zinnias instead of those nasty singles! Is the weather not permitting you to plant outside? Boost them. It will be rewarding.
Zinnias enjoy direct sunlight because they enjoy the heat! Plant in well-draining soil and use drip irrigation for optimal results. Powdery mildew and rust are only a couple of the diseases that can be brought on by overhead spraying. Ick. Beware of my enemies, the earwigs, and ravenous caterpillars! They will chomp those delicate seedlings to the ground, especially. Just seed again if they are indeed devoured! What do you have to lose? You will win in the end! Read my Nitty Gritty blogs on Battling Earwigs and Natural Pest Control Part I and Part II to discover how to get rid of different pests organically.
Zinnia harvesting can be a little challenging. Harvest early in the morning, and do the “wiggle test,” to prevent them from falling limp on you one hour after harvest.
This wiggling test is what? A rain dance of some sort? Not exactly. When doing the wiggle test, carefully grab the zinnia about midway down the stem and shake it back and forth. The zinnia is not ripe for harvest if the neck flops. Harvest the zinnia if its neck is rigid. When zinnias are harvested too early, the outcome is limp, lifeless blossoms. Be patient, then!
Another picky flower that doesn’t like using store-bought flower food is the zinnia. They are also regarded as “dirty flowers” since their hairy stems quickly make the water smelly, thus placing them in plain water isn’t the best option. The amount of germs can be reduced by adding a tablet of CVBN or a splash of bleach to the container. You may also prepare your own flower food at home by using this recipe, which I prefer.
Zinnias should last around five days in a vase with adequate care. The wonderful thing about zinnias is that they bloom more the more you cut them! Therefore, be sure to routinely deadhead or trim away. Don’t be afraid to cut deeply from the plant for the optimum stem lengths during the entire growing season. You will acquire more useful stems the deeper the incision. Your forearm’s length approximately constitutes a nice length. I know, it sounds scary. Try it; you won’t regret it!
Although zinnias are lovely, I wouldn’t suggest using them for boutonnieres or corsages. Use the unopened bud or insert a damp cotton ball into their hollow stem if you must have them. These guys hate being left without water!
I hope you incorporate a few of these lovely blossoms into your cutting garden now that summer is just around the corner!
The Lowdown:
Seeds can be directly sown after the last frost or started 4 weeks beforehand; germination takes 3–7 days. To improve the yield of fluffy doubles, avoid letting the plants get root-bound.
Every three to four weeks, we sow a succession; we try for a minimum of two, and three if we can.
Extremely sensitive to frost; if your region frequently experiences late frosts (like ours! ), plant beneath a double row cover or at the very least, frost cloth. In our region, we start planting in early May.
Plant Spacing: 6–9 (we suggest 8); take note that disease may spread more readily the closer the spacing.
It is possible for seemingly healthy zinnias to be picked and turn to mush within 24 hours due to a certain bacteria. A CVBN pill might be useful. Holding zinnias for at least 24 hours after harvest will help to prevent zinnia meltdown.
Pests include grasshoppers, cucumber beetles, Japanese beetles, earwigs, blister beetles, aphids, mites, and spider mites. be vulnerable to harmful nematodes.
Storage: Does not keep well in a refrigerator below 45 degrees F. (like most warm loving flowers). Maximum storage time is 5 days; we personally never keep anything more than 2 days.
Our must-have varieties include the Queen Lime series (all of them! Red, orange, blotchy, and lime). (Especially ivory and salmon, love!) Oklahoma series Persian carpet and Aztec burgundy are the cutest small button filler flowers.
Harvest: Do the wiggle test and pick early in the morning if possible! Avoid using commercial flower food and choose CVBN tablets instead.
Do zinnias require hardening?
Zinnias can be grown from seed that is sown early indoors and moved outside after a frost, or from potted plants or seeds sown directly in the ground after a frost.
Indoor Seed Sowing
- Utilizing a seed starting kit, sow indoors 5-7 weeks before to the date of outdoor planting in the spring.
- plant seeds A quarter-inch deep in seed starting solution
- At 70–75 degrees Fahrenheit, keep the soil moist.
- The seedlings appear in 7–10 days.
- As soon as seedlings appear, give them lots of light on a sunny windowsill or grow them 3–4 inches beneath 16–hour-per-day fluorescent plant lights that are off for eight hours at night. As the plants get taller, turn up the lights. Because they will become too hot, incandescent bulbs will not function in this process. Do not leave lights on continuously for 24 hours; most plants need a time of darkness to flourish.
- when they have two sets of leaves, thin to one seedling per cell.
- Seedlings don’t require a lot of fertilizer; feed them when they are 3–4 weeks old with a starter solution (half the strength of an indoor plant food), as directed by the manufacturer.
- After the first frost, transplant hardened-off seedlings into the garden.
- Seedling plants must be “hardened off” before being planted in the garden. By relocating young plants to a protected area outside for a week, you can acclimate them to outside circumstances. At first, be sure to shield them from the wind and the light. If frost is expected at night, cover or bring pots inside; then, in the morning, reintroduce them to the outdoors. The plant’s cell structure is toughened during the hardening off process, which also lessens transplant shock and scorching.
Direct Sowing in the Garden
- After any threat of frost has passed, direct-sow seeds in ordinary soil in full sunlight.
- The top 6 to 8 inches of soil should be cleared of weeds, and then it should be leveled and smoothed.
- The majority of plants do well in soils that have had organic matter added. Compost is a beautiful organic material that can be applied to your planting area whenever you like. It has the perfect pH level and nutrient balance. If compost is not available, topdress the soil with 1-2 inches of organic mulch after planting; this mulch will break down into compost over time. Following the growth season, a soil test will reveal what soil amendments are required.
- equally space the seeds 12 inches apart, then top with 1/4 inch of fine dirt.
- Lightly press the soil with your hand, water, and maintain an uniform moisture level.
- In 7–10 days, seedlings will start to show.
- When seedlings are 1-2 inches tall and 8–24 inches apart, depending on the variety, thin them.
Gardening: Planting
- Choose an area with good, rich, moist organic soil that receives direct sun.
- Turn the soil under to a depth of 8 inches to prepare the bed. To get rid of grass and stone clumps, level the area using a rake.
- For each plant, create a hole that is sufficiently large to hold the root ball.
- Set the top of the root ball so that it is level with the dirt around it. Up to the top of the root ball, cover with soil. Your hand should firmly push the earth down, leaving a small depression to hold water around the plant.
- Water deeply until a puddle appears in the saucer you have made. As a result, there is strong root-to-soil contact and the plants become established.
- Use the plant tag to indicate its location.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control while the plants are growing. Weeds compete with plants for water, space, and nutrients, therefore keep them in check by frequently cultivating or by using a mulch to stop the germination of their seeds.
- Mulches also support stable soil temperatures and moisture retention. Shredded leaves used as an organic mulch for annual plants give the bed a more natural appearance and, as they decompose over time, enrich the soil. Mulches should never be placed on a plant’s stems to avoid potential decay.
- During the growing season, make sure plants are well-watered, especially during dry spells. The growing season requires roughly 1 inch of rain every week for plants. To determine whether you need to add water, use a rain gauge. The optimum irrigation method is a drip or trickling system that releases water at low pressure directly into the soil. To reduce disease issues, water early in the day if you want to use overhead sprinklers so the foliage has time to dry before dusk. Maintain a moist but not saturated soil.
- Some protection from strong winds and intense sunlight may be required until plants grow established. Additionally essential is good airflow.
- A mild fertilizer can be administered after new growth starts to show. To prevent burn damage, keep granular fertilizers away from the plant’s top and leaves. Use moderate amounts of a slow-release fertilizer because greater amounts could promote root rots.
- Unless you are growing them purely for cut flowers and want long stems, pinch young plants to induce branching.
- To prolong plant flowering till fall, remove spent flower heads. Cutting zinnias fosters the emergence of fresh blooms and they make excellent cut flowers.
- Observe for illnesses and pests. For advice on pest management measures that are suitable for your area, contact your cooperative extension service.
- In order to prevent disease problems the next year, remove plants that have been killed by frost in the fall.
Growing Tips
- Zinnias can be arranged in tiny clusters alongside perennials or in mixed plantings with other summer annuals. They thrive in cottage and kid-friendly gardens, and cutting gardens frequently cultivate them.
- For containers, shorter zinnia cultivars are best. Be careful not to crowd them because the plants may grow taller and the blossoms may be much less than they should be. Never use garden soil instead of commercial potting mix, and make sure the containers have enough drainage. Plants growing in containers will need more water and fertilizer; keep an eye out for wilting or nutrient deficiencies.
- For cut flowers, trim stems before the blossom opens.
- Hummingbirds, butterflies, and beneficial insects are drawn to zinnias.
Common Disease Problems
Alternaria Leaf Spot: On the upper surface of the leaves and along the midrib, small, rounded, reddish-brown dots with white to gray centers appear. The lesions could surround the stems and result in wilt. Warm, rainy, or extremely humid conditions makes this sickness worse. Avoid getting water on the foliage, advises Burpee. Avoid working with moist plants and remove any contaminated plant components. Make sure there is lots of air movement. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
Aster Yellows: Plants grow excessively, become stunted, and develop witch’s brooms. Their petals also turn green and become malformed. Leafhoppers propagate this virus-like ailment. Burpee advises removing and destroying diseased plants. Eliminate leafhoppers. Eliminate any weeds in the area that the illness can also live on.
Bacterial Leaf Spot: The earliest symptoms are small, translucent spots with a wide, yellowish edge. Over time, these spots gradually get larger and develop an angular or irregularly circular shape with a reddish center. It flourishes in cooler climates. Flower heads may be impacted by the disease and become deformed. Burpee advises getting rid of diseased plants. Crop rotation should involve diverse family plants. Avoid watering from above. When plants are damp, stay away from them.
Botrytis: This fungus turns flowers, leaves, stalks, and buds a greyish color. It thrives in chilly, rainy weather. Burpee advises removing the damaged plant sections, avoiding watering at night, and not watering directly on the plant. Make sure plants receive adequate airflow. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
When the weather is humid, a fungus illness known as powdery mildew develops on the tops of the leaves. The surface of the leaves seems to be white or grayish, and they may curl. Burpee advises giving the plants adequate air circulation through optimum spacing and pruning in order to prevent powdery mildew. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: These disease-transmitting sucking insects that feed on the undersides of leaves might be green, red, black, or peach in appearance. On the foliage, they deposit a sticky substance that draws ants. Burpee advises attracting or introducing aphid-eating predators like lady beetles and wasps into your garden. You can also use an insecticidal soap or a powerful spray to wash them away.
Leafhoppers: These insects damage leaves and retard growth. Moreover, they spread sickness. Burpee advises clearing up plant detritus. Use soaps with insecticides. For additional advice on insecticides, contact local cooperative extension service.
Burpee advises hand-picking Japanese beetles in the morning into a pail of soapy water.
Compared to what is typical for the variety, plants are shorter, and blossoms are much smaller: Overcrowding can cause zinnias to become stunted and produce smaller flowers. Always adhere to the spacing guidelines for each variety.
Spider mites: These minuscule insects, which resemble spiders, are approximately the size of a peppercorn. They can be yellow, brown, black, red, or black. They ingest plant liquids, sucking out chlorophyll and injecting poisons that leave the foliage with white spots. On the plant, webbing is frequently seen. They cause the leaf to stipple, dry, and become yellow. They proliferate swiftly and do best in dry environments. Burpee’s Advice Every other day, a strong spray can help control spider mites. Try using insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. For advice on miticides, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service.