These wonderful plants will fill your yard with delicious scent.
When the lilacs begin to blossom, it is a solid indicator that spring has arrived for good. While many people only have a limited knowledge of common lilac (also known as French lilac) shrubs that can reach a height of 15 feet or more, there are now a lot more options available than there were fifty years ago. Some varieties that rebloom enhance the garden’s appeal the entire growing season.
How to Choose Lilacs
The common lilac is what you will most likely find when you go plant shopping. This traditional plant comes in a variety of cultivars and variations, each of which yields fragrant spring flowers in pink, purple, white, or even combinations of those hues. Common lilacs are typically the most fragrant variety of lilac and can grow to be rangy and large.
Rebloomers have arrived in the garden center thanks to recent introductions of hybrids between the common lilac and other shrub-type lilacs. Some of these more recent types are a little less fragrant, but they also tend to be smaller, bloom more frequently throughout the growing season, and have fewer powdery mildew issues.
The tree lilac is another common variety of lilac. It can grow to a height of around 20 feet and blooms with cream-colored flowers in the middle of the summer. Though it doesn’t require much trimming, keep in mind that the tree lilac is a tree, not a shrub.
Where to Plant Lilacs
Lilacs should be planted in full light (at least 6 to 8 hours per day), as too much shadow will prevent them from blooming. Lilacs also prefer moist, well-drained soil that is slightly alkaline.
When to Plant Lilacs
Before the ground freezes in the late fall is the ideal time to plant lilacs. After the earth thaws in the early spring, that is the next ideal period to plant. Lilacs will likely need to be planted as soon as you can locate them at the garden center, which is great; if you choose to do so during a warmer season, they might require additional watering.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Lilacs
A soil test should be performed prior to planting since lilacs thrive in slightly alkaline (6.5 to 7.0 pH), moist, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter. Lime must be added to raise the pH if it is below 5.5. It’s time to get the soil ready when you’ve obtained the ideal pH. Improve individual planting holes by mixing Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs in a 50:50 ratio with the natural soil to give lilacs a nutrient-rich start. Iron and phosphorus are also present in this garden soil to promote root development and ward off leaf fading.
Are lilacs sun or shade lovers?
Full light and well-drained soil are ideal for lilac growth. Lilacs won’t flower well if they are cultivated in partial sunlight or shade. The bushes can live for hundreds of years after they have established themselves in a new location, even if it may take them three to four years to do so. The plant’s growth may be impacted by the soil pH (alkalinity or acidity of the soil). A slightly acidic to alkaline soil is ideal for lilac growth. Because of their frequent high acidity, New England soils may need to be modified for the greatest lilac growth.
Pruning the blooming stem back to a set of leaves each year will stop seed formation and ensure that there will be an abundance of flowers. Good flowering years may be followed by terrible years if this is not done. Winter trimming will get rid of flower buds since they are generated in the summer before they blossom.
Branch out any diseased, damaged, or dead wood. Renewing pruning is necessary for tall, lanky, and poorly flowering plants; for three years, cut around one-third of the oldest stems at ground level each year. This promotes the development of strong new stems from the base. The plant should have fully recovered after three years, with flowers growing back to nose height.
Despite how resilient lilacs are, they nevertheless require plenty of water as they grow. Lilacs prefer soil that is both moist and well-draining.
Powdery mildew fungus (Microsphaera alni), lilac borer (Podosesia syringae), and scale are the most problematic lilac issues in our region (oyster-shell scale, Lepidosaphes ulmi and prunicola scale, Pseudaulacaspis prunicola). The leaves appear to have pale streaks of powdery mildew on them. Even though it is ugly, it is rarely severe in our environment. In stems and larger branches, often one to two feet above ground level, borers leave 1/8-inch holes. A modest infestation may be disregarded, but more than a few borers require professional diagnosis and treatment. While prunicola scale covers bark with a dusty white mass, oyster-shell scale is appropriately named since the pests resemble 1/8-inch oyster shells on the stems. Control adult scale by chopping off branches that are extensively infested; control microscopic baby “crawlers” with a strong hose spray of water (use a hand lens to see scale). Summer oil and dormant oil both work well.
Are lilacs shade-tolerant?
Respected Master Gardener: I see the enormous, aromatic shrubs at my grandparents’ property when I think of lilacs. Are there any lilacs suitable for small gardens, as my yard is pretty little? Could lilacs survive in partial shade?
Lilacs, or Syringa, are excellent shrubs for cold locations because they require chilly winters to thrive. They flourish in direct sunlight for at least six hours each day. Even though they can survive some shade, they won’t blossom as much. There are some lesser types of lilacs that thrive in our region, but many of them grow to be fairly enormous.
Syringa-Fairytale Lilac Series plants are upright, rounded, and bloom mid- to late in the season. They are hardy to 35 degrees below zero, grow to a mature size of 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide, and have good disease resistance. Tinkerbelle is pink, Prince Charming is lavender-pink.
Hyacinth Lilacs, or Syringa x hyacinthiflora, mature to a size of about 10 feet by 10 feet, so they might grow too big for your garden. Nevertheless, they are quite attractive, bloom early in the season, and are hardy to 45 degrees below zero.
Syringa meyeri, also known as the Meyer or Dwarf Korean Lilac, has a mid- to late-season bloom, is hardy to 35 degrees below zero, and matures to a size of 7 feet by 8 feet. Palibin is a smaller cultivar, measuring about 5 feet by 7 feet. Despite being referred to as “Korean lilacs,” they are actually Chinese in origin.
The late-blooming Syringa x prestoniae (Preston or Nodding Lilac) is hardy to 40 degrees below zero. At 10 feet by 8 feet, Donald Wyman might be too enormous for your garden, while Coral and Hiawatha reach mature sizes of 7 feet by 6 feet and 8 feet by 6 feet, respectively. Hiawatha has exceptionally attractive magenta buds and is powdery mildew resistant.
Miss Kim, a variety of Syringa pubescens (Manchurian Lilac), is well known. It flowers late in the season and is hardy down to 35 below zero. Its mature dimensions are 6 feet tall by 6 feet wide. This species produces small, abundantly blooming blooms and is resistant to powdery mildew. The color of Miss Kim is lavender-blue.
The Common Lilac is Syringa vulgaris. This species has a wide range in size, is hardy down to 40 degrees below zero, typically blooms in the middle of the season, and frequently has a potent scent. Smaller varieties that thrive in our region include Albert F. Holden, a silvery purple that measures 8 feet by 7 feet, Avalanche, a white that measures 8 feet by 6 feet, Lucie Baltet, a pale pink that measures 5 feet by 5 feet, Marie Frances, a pink that measures 8 feet by 6 feet, Prairie Petite, a pink-lavender that measures 3 feet by 3 feet, Sarah Sands, a dark purple that measures 8 feet by 6 feet (lavender-blue, 6-feet by 5-feet).
Respected Master Gardener: Which perennials ought I remove right away, and which should I wait until spring?
Gardeners frequently want to trim back all herbaceous plants and straighten up the yard before the snow arrives, but some perennials shouldn’t be pruned at all because they support wildlife or add color and interest to the otherwise drab Minnesota environment throughout the winter. Heuchera, tiarella, dianthus, moss phlox, and hellebores are examples of low growing evergreen or semi-evergreen perennials that shouldn’t be clipped back.
For extra crown protection, leave the foliage on the following perennials until spring: Aster, Astilbe, Chrysanthemum, Delphinium (cut stems to basal foliage), Hosta, Lady’s Mantle, Penstemon (cut tall foliage to basal growth), Russian Sage, and Salvia (leave the foliage on until spring) (cut back to basal growth). You may maintain track of some perennials by keeping a section of them in place. Examples are Asclepias, Platycodon (balloon flower), and hardy Hibiscus. These perennials emerge late in the spring.
Some perennial plants have fascinating seed pods or flower heads that make the garden interesting in the winter. Flowers like Baptisia, Achillea, Sedum, and Joe Pye Weed can all be left in situ to add color to the garden in the late fall and winter. The plumes of various ornamental grasses, particularly feather reed grass, can enliven the winter environment with intrigue and vertical accents. Trim back grasses in the early spring before new growth appears to protect tender shoots.
Some perennials can be left until spring even if they may not be very appealing since their seed heads provide food for birds. These include Heliopsis, Rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), Echinacea (coneflowers), Monarda (bee balm), and Coreopsis. If not deadheaded and left in place, some annuals, such as zinnias, bachelor’s buttons, and cosmos, also provide food for birds.
Hemerocallis (daylily), Brunnera, Bearded and Siberian Iris, Phlox (not moss phlox), and Veronica are perennials that you are free to remove right away. Cut down any unhealthy or contaminated plants you may have, and then get rid of the plant matter. After the foliage turns brown and collapses, herbaceous peonies can be pruned back to the ground. Be cautious not to disturb the reddish buds off to the sides, though, since they will grow stems the following spring.
Respected Master Gardener: My yews were almost reduced to skeletons last winter by something. They had a slight resurgence this summer, and I want to shield them from harm this winter. What do you suggest?
The culprits are probably rabbits and deer, both of which enjoy yew trees. Your best bet is probably to use repellents and restrictions together. You can use any commercial deer and rabbit repeller, but make sure it is labeled for those animals and is used in accordance with the directions. Applications will be required all winter long. Making circular cages out of hardware cloth or another type of fence material with mesh apertures no larger than one inch will restrict access. The cages must be four feet tall and large enough to be used as the plant develops. Secure cage bottoms that are buried many inches. They will be further shielded from winter winds and storms by two or three three-quarter-diameter metal or bamboo poles weaved vertically down the cages and buried in the ground. Other priceless and vulnerable shrubs can also be caged to keep animals out.
- Rakes, hoes, shovels, spades, and digging forks should all be clean. Cleanse with water after removing dried dirt with a brush. To avoid rust, wipe down tools with an oil-soaked rag after they have dried. Wooden tool handles can be moisturized and lubricated using the same rag.
Where shouldn’t lilac bushes be planted?
Avoid planting lilacs in areas that will receive more than a half-worth day’s of shade because they thrive in full sun. Make sure to give them room to expand when you plant them. To find out the mature plant’s height and spread, read the label on the plant.
Lilacs require sufficient drainage to thrive. The soil should have just enough moisture to support the root system while still allowing for free drainage after heavy rains.
Dig a hole that is about 8 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep to test the drainage before planting. Add water to the hole. Choose a different location if the water hasn’t drained after an hour.
Lilacs can they get too much sun?
Lilacs prefer full sun and should be planted in an area where they will receive at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunshine every day. Interestingly, lilacs thrive in the heat of the sun throughout the growth season, but they flourish after a cold winter. Like all plants, lilacs are susceptible to overexposure to sunlight, which is shown by their curled, brown leaves and dried blossoms. Similar to how lilac blooms may not open if they are always in the shade and may become infected by fungi. The best course of action is to make sure they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, ideally 8.
How much water do lilacs require?
A traditional flower garden, outdoor space, or decorative pot should all contain lilac plants as they are a staple flowering shrub. Zones 3 through 8 are suitable for growing these fragrant shrubs, and they require very little maintenance. Lilacs need at least 6 hours per day of direct sunlight to produce their best flowers. Lilacs benefit from regular watering after initial planting, throughout active growth seasons (spring), and during prolonged dry spells. Lilacs are fairly drought tolerant once they are established.
It is advised to water your lilac plant once every 10 to 14 days from spring till blooming is finished. The ideal irrigation for lilacs is deep, infrequent watering. Make sure the planting space or container has good drainage. These plants don’t appreciate having their feet wet and won’t bloom if they are overwatered. By saturating air pockets with water and reducing soil oxygen levels, excessive water can strangle the lilac tree’s roots. The first indication that the lilac is overwatered is the plant wiggling.
Can lilacs survive in partial shade?
Lilac is frequently mentioned when asking individuals to choose their favorite fragrance flower. But why do so few of us actually grow lilacs, if so many of us like them? They may be accused of having a brief lifespan, but if you only have a tiny garden with a hedge, why not plant a lilac there? Additionally, to prolong its moment of fascination, you can thread a viticella clematis up between the branches.
A purple, a cream, or a white lilac tree can be found in almost every older garden, although they are uncommon in newly planted ones.
I recently paid Chris Lane a visit at his nursery in the Kent town of Sittingbourne, where he has a sizable collection of lilacs (Syringa). He adores them since they require little upkeep and perform superbly when the garden is in transition—spring bulbs are almost finished, but summer plants haven’t fully bloomed. Why have we lost our passion for lilacs if we still like planting fake orange (Philadelphus), which blooms about a month later when the garden is bursting to the seams with fragrance and color? It undoubtedly does the same task, albeit at a more advantageous time.
Lilacs do benefit from pruning after flowering to keep them in check and prevent the smell from simply drifting upward, but that is all there is to it. Every other year will maintain the structure open, improve air circulation, and prevent mildew even if the pruning isn’t a three-line whip. Lilacs thrive in full sun or light shade, practically any soil (but especially chalk), and are exceptionally resilient to cold weather.
At Chris’s nursery, where he also has a sizable collection of wisterias and witchhazels, I chose one variety in each of the several color groups that stood out from the others as I strolled along the long, fluffy, fragrant pom-pom lines.
The S. vulgaris hybrid “Ogni Moskvy” won the day for me because my favorite colors are deep, rich purples—the darker the color, the better—so that variety is now difficult to locate. This variety is a victim of the fact that fewer of us are purchasing lilacs, since the range of publicly available kinds has decreased by a third from only 20 years ago. However, “Congo” or “Charles Joly” (AGM) are the best alternatives. Although they are not quite as black and rich, they are nonetheless quite attractive and commonly accessible.
A species hybrid with reddish-purple buds and mauve flowers, S. x hyacinthiflora ‘Esther Staley’ (AGM), is one notch lower in pitch. This would be lovely chopped short and decorated with early-blooming roses. Another vulgaris hybrid, “Lucie Baltet,” is even paler in the most lovely shell pink. The buds are a somewhat darker shade than the fully opened flowers, and the entire panicle is quite precise and delicate in its habit. After that, you can switch from mauve to light blues and finally to the widely accessible “Firmament” (AGM), which has been cultivated and well-liked since 1932.
The greatest starched linen white in the white to cream color spectrum is “Maud Notcutt,” with “Madame Lemoine” (AGM) standing out as the best white double. This had a vase life that was three days longer than the norm, winning the trial. The doubles are more resilient on the plant outside and when they are cut because of the complexity of the flower, but on the down side, the flowers linger on the bush when they turn brown rather than dropping, so you’ll need to deadhead them if you prefer things neat.
The last one I chose was “Primrose.” It was the color of upscale unsalted butter in the bud, fading to ivory when completely opened, and it was another of my favorites, although having a weaker aroma.
Lilac is a fantastic flower to use for a sizable vase inside because it blooms in May and early June. I am aware of the urban legend that discourages people from bringing lilacs into their homes because it is believed to bring bad luck, but most people are capable of overcoming such superstition. You can use it to fill a space with that delicate, sweet scent.
Three factors must be understood in order for lilac to perform effectively after being cut. The initial recommendation is to remove practically all of the leaves. They will be transpiring like billy-o and will require a lot of water to do so, but they only have a thin stem to take it in. The stem will live longer if the foliage is kept to the area immediately surrounding the flowers, which enhances the vase’s beauty.
The stem end must then be seared in boiling water for 30 seconds. The lowest 10% of the stems should be submerged in the hot water after you have poured the water from the kettle into a mug. Take them out and place them in a pail of ice-cold water. Keep them there for a few hours, or better yet, over night, to keep them chilly and dark. Pick, sear, rest, and arrange are the steps to take. The panicle has a tendency to collapse if you choose and arrange right away.
The stems of lilac should be grown so that they are at a height that makes selecting them simple. Every couple of years, farmers of commercial cut-flower lilacs coppice or pollard their plants instead of carefully trimming them, just cutting the main stem all the way to the ground (or about three feet in the case of the pollard technique). Then, fewer stems with little to no leaf will develop, but the enormous flower panicles will.