In Tennessee, plants often begin to bloom in late May and continue into June. Aged blossoms continue until the fall, when they dry out but still look lovely. There are many varieties of bigleaf hydrangea that may be grown in zones 6 to 9, and they thrive best in damp but well-drained soil.
What kinds of hydrangeas are indigenous to Tennessee?
After the past two harsh winters, gardeners have found that their hydrangeas have had few or no blooms. Many people have questioned me about the second year in a row that they had a late bloom or no bloom at all. My lovely Endless Summer TM decided that September and October would be the perfect time to cover itself in blossoms, just in time for the first cold snap of the upcoming winter, so I wasn’t much better off.
While the recovery of hydrangeas after winter damage is the topic of this article, there may be other causes for an entirely green hydrangea. Nitrogen fertilizer in particular can result in excessive growth without any blooms. Even after a warmer winter, if your hydrangea hasn’t bloomed, you might want to lessen or switch out the fertilizer you’ve been using and get a soil test done.
Although hydrangeas appear to be very similar to the untrained eye, they actually fall into a number of different classifications. Some plants are fussier than others, and trimming them out of season will result in the loss of all blossoms for the following year. Some people put up with being mowed down to nothingness every few years. Winter damage is frequently Mother Nature’s pruning tool, and she can be harsh, unlike the meek pruning attempts of many gardeners. It’s possible that some gardeners made matters worse by removing the final flower buds when “tidying up.” Some hydrangeas can withstand winter damage and continue to bloom, albeit a little (or a lot) later and with possibly smaller flower heads.
Only “ancient” wood will allow some hydrangeas to blossom. That only refers to the stems and branches that have emerged in recent years. When you remove this old wood, you also remove the developing flower buds that formed inside of those stems during the summer. Early in the spring, a lot of people cut their hydrangeas under the mistaken assumption that all the brown wood they see is dead. The surviving stems can only produce new leaves because they do not yet contain the cells necessary to generate buds. Some hydrangeas, however, will produce flowers on both “old” and “new” wood. The new branches that begin to appear as springtime growth commences are fresh wood. Even if newer branches are unintentionally clipped at the incorrect time, blooms will still grow on them.
You won’t know when it is safe to prune or even whether you can skip pruning altogether if you don’t know what type you have. Let’s examine the four categories of hydrangea and discuss how to prune and take care of each of the lovely shrubs.
Oak Leaf Hydrangea: Being a true native of eastern Tennessee, this hydrangea is hardy and prefers more sunshine than any other. This hydrangea flourishes in drier, sunnier environments as opposed to other varieties. Because of its stunning fall leaf color and enormous bloom heads, it is my favorite. If it remains in moist soil for any period of time, it can quickly succumb to root rot and perish. They get their name from their leaf-like shape, which also makes them the most distinctive. Large flower heads with a somewhat rounded cone form, larger at the top and tapering to the end, are present on these plants. They are different from the others in that they favor drier, brighter circumstances. They retain their colored fall leaves for a while and can add some interest to the winter.
Known variously as the Bigleaf, French, or Garden hydrangea, Macrphylla (sometimes known as Mophead or Lacecap) is a kind of hydrangea. This category includes the traditional old-fashioned southern garden hydrangea, which has enormous, spherical or pompom-shaped flowers. They are known for having large flower heads, and these are typically the most colorful. These come in a wide range of well-liked types, and the Endless Summer series is one of them. To thrive more than the others, they require more water and shade.
Paniculata – These have the potential to grow extremely large, however they can be pruned into tree shape. The PeeGees and LimelightTM are the most well-known of these. Additionally, as opposed to large round balls, they frequently have flower heads that are somewhat cone-shaped and taper at the end.
Another natural variety, Hydrangea arborescens, is sometimes also called to as “Wild Hydrangea.” They may have formed a tall, blossoming hedge together in large bunches. The most popular variant offered is AnnabelleTM. To thrive and perform effectively in dappled sunlight, they need a little extra sun protection. They also have enormous, globular flower heads.
The first two hydrangea varieties we’ll talk about are those that primarily bloom on fresh wood and can survive a harsh winter without ceasing to bloom. They are also rather simple to maintain.
The arborescens is one of the hydrangeas that recovers from winter damage or the lax gardener the quickest. Any damage can be completely cut back to the ground, and immediately after, a new shrub with flowers will appear. If this is done regularly, it may become floppy from the weight of the blossoms, therefore it is better to leave some stems or restrict drastic pruning to once every three to four years to get a few that are bigger and stronger stems. If it receives a full morning of sun and then afternoon shade, it will grow more readily.
Once established, NativeOak Leafhydrangeas are among the hardiest hydrangeas. One in my area has endured county roadside trimming, gone from being in the shade behind a tree to being on its own in the full daylight, and continues to bloom despite the winter damage. This species favors warmer, drier weather than the others. Its weakness is that if it is in soil that remains damp for more than a few hours at a time, root rot can quickly destroy it. Timing is important when pruning them, and a harsh winter could harm the old stems, particularly at the crowns. To preserve buds that have already started to form, the greatest rule to follow is to never cut them back after August 1. Wait until a longer period of mild weather has encouraged buds to show before assessing severe winter damage; you’ll discover that many of the dead branches actually have buds. Before it fully displays new growth, you might need to wait until far into April. The wait seems longer the longer the winter is, but it will be worth it.
The next two types of hydrangeas will require a different pruning strategy.
The Paniculata Hydrangeas are the only ones that can nearly always be pruned and still produce some flowers. As long as you don’t prune right when flower buds are starting to bud, they will recover from winter damage and blossom pretty much on schedule. Don’t place them next to other plants or among themselves because they are typically the largest hydrangeas. You will be rewarded with enormous flower-covered shrubs year after year with a little afternoon shade and watering care during dry times.
The Lacecaps and Mophead kinds are highly well-liked by collectors and garden stores due to their widest range of colors and sizes. They don’t survive as well when cut by a gardener or mother nature in the winter because they aren’t as resilient as the native varieties. The Endless Summer series of hydrangeas, which are more modern everblooming varieties that also produce flowers on fresh wood, are the exception. In our region, older types cannot be pruned after August 1 in order to preserve the ancient wood buds. If you are patient enough, the Endless Summer varieties, like the oak leaf, will reward you with fresh growth buds. Waiting before doing a spring clean up on them is worth the unsightly sight of those brown sticks for both types.
After an exceptionally cold winter or one that continued into spring with numerous late damaging frost, all of the hydrangeas may stop blooming since the plants will have been ruined from the ground up. The only course of action in this situation is to encourage new plant growth while waiting for better conditions the next year, understanding that it won’t always occur in Tennessee. The most important lesson that us gardeners can take away is how valuable patience is. Next year is always an option!
Where can you find hydrangeas in Tennessee?
“Well, that would be in locations with partial sunshine. Bigleaf hydrangeas prefer morning light to afternoon shade, and they typically thrive in this environment. Additionally, they favor a rich, well-drained soil with a medium level of wetness.
When writing, Amanda pauses to inquire, “What about soil pH? I’ve read about it but am unsure of its significance.
“This is where bigleaf hydrangeas are fantastic,” the team member replies. Depending on the pH of the soil, you can alter the color of their bloom. In extremely acidic oils, they turn bluer, and in alkaline soils, they turn more pink.
Amanda grins at the idea of being able to alter the hue of her flower. That is really awesome.
Hydrangea: How To Prune
Every so often, someone asks us how to prune hydrangeas. It requires little time or effort. You don’t even need to do it frequently. Hydrangeas must only be pruned when necessary.
When the flowers on hydrangeas start to fade, prune them, the team member responds. To promote a fuller shape, prune the flower heads and other stems that are fading. If the foliage is damaged by a harsh winter, you will need to remove it.
Does winter require special attention for them? she queries. ” Not bigleaf hydrangeas, the team member replies, “they don’t need any extra winter care. They are among the hardy plants that thrive well in zone 7, the hardiness zone we are in. Even so, it’s wise to watch them to make sure they drink enough water.
She gives the hydrangeas in front of her some thought. She reaches out to touch them because of the lovely pink, purple, and blue hues they have. They are already lining up in front of her house, she thinks.
With her phone in hand, Amanda makes a call to her spouse. She only needs to persuade him now that hydrangeas are the best plant to purchase…
Good Hydrangea Care Leads To Beautiful Plants
You may now take the greatest care of your hydrangeas, just like Amanda. Hydrangeas can be expertly pruned and planted in the ideal locations. With the help of these amazing plants, your yard will look even better than before. Your dream yard might be one step closer to becoming a reality.
Can you find hydrangeas in Nashville?
- blooms in mid-summer on fresh wood.
- Can be grown in a planter on the patio, as a specimen plant, or in a group in a landscape.
- Flowers with lovely puffy blossoms (that don’t droop!) develop on a dense deciduous tree. If not pruned, it might reach 8 × 8.
- resistant to drought.
- tolerates partial to full sun.
- like loamy soil but may grow in about any kind of soil.
- resistant to disease
As you can see, choosing the ‘Limelight’ Hydrangea for your Nashville landscaping is a great decision. Pruning should be done in late winter, before the spring growing season begins, to maintain it compact. Keep in mind that it blooms in the spring on new wood.
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WRITTEN BY GAYLE FISHER
Hydrangeas are long-lasting, gorgeous, lush, and colorful but have only recently gained popularity as common landscaping plants. This shrub, which was formerly viewed as outdated, is one of several Victorian favorites that have become popular once again in American gardens. Here in East Tennessee, where they are winter-hardy and almost every grandmother had them growing in their yard, we especially enjoy them. I am well-versed in the resilience of hydrangeas. I asked my kids to gift me a hydrangea on Mother’s Day twelve years ago. All they had to do was give their father the money; I had already chosen the plants. I positioned the five hydrangeas beneath a dogwood near our farm’s entrance. You have seen images of these flowers in magazines, with their huge, fluffy blooms, exquisite colors, and divine scents. This exhibit would astound my guests.
Because I was a novice gardener and had not done enough research on the plants, I frequently had wilted plants and no easy way to provide the thirsty, spindly little shrubs with water. I hoped that the wilting was a result of the new plants’ inability to take root. I saw the same subpar results the next year, including weeping foliage and no blossoms. The following year, I dug out the plants, took them inside, and replanted them outside the garden room, where there was plenty of water and I could see them all the time. The fourth year, I only had leaves once more, but owing to the water, there was less withering. Since they are deciduous, taking care of them every day became a chore when winter arrived; I was staring at tiny barren sticks. I then made the unfortunate mistake of aggressively pruning them back. Since hydrangeas blossom on old wood, doing this would guarantee that there would be no blooms the next summer.
After 10 years, plenty of water, and no pruning, my hydrangeas are finally gorgeous, worthy of a magazine.
The soil has an impact on the hydrangea’s color. If your plant had fully bloomed when you purchased it or received it as a gift, but the following year it displayed weaker color or a faded appearance, you need to modify the soil. The pH of the soil has a big impact on flower color. Pink to red flowers grow in more alkaline soils (pH 6.5 to 7.5), while blue to purple blooms grow in acidic soils (pH 5.0 to 5.5). White flowers, which are my favorite, are not at all influenced by pH, although certain cultivars are more pH-sensitive than others. Aluminum sulfate is used to lower soil pH, and lime is used to raise soil pH (making it less acidic) (make it more acidic). Any pH adjustments you make should be done gradually over a number of seasons. Growing pink hydrangeas in containers would be your best option if your soil is really acidic because they make excellent container plants.
Even while our winters are getting warmer, we still need to keep in mind that they prefer some shade and well-drained soil (late, hot afternoon sun really makes them droop). Make sure they are planted in a location with easy access to water. I am using a soaker hose to water mine every other day in the absence of rain.
Oakleaf and Annabelle are two hydrangeas that are native. They thrive with less effort than Lacecaps or Mopheads because they are natural to our region. Oakleaf flowers can grow up to eighteen inches in length overall. Initially green, they turn white as they age. Their lovely foliage, which resemble the leaves of an oak tree, give them their name. In the fall, their attractive foliage turns a vivid scarlet and orange-brown.
There are many pure white blooms and flowers on Annabelle. This native plant can be clipped and will bloom again the following year. Enjoy Annabelle and Oakleaf in their natural white hues as soil pH has no effect on either plant’s color. These native plants will continue to thrive if we experience a late spring surprise frost, but you might lose all of your Mophead blossoms.
Hydrangea blossoms are simple to dry and can be used all year round in your house. Simply allow them to dry in a vase if you prefer the Victorian style. When the flowers are in full bloom and cut early in the day, leave them to stand in two to three inches of water (do not top it up) until they are completely dry. This results in a richer, more organic form. The heads of the fresh flowers will usually fade or collapse if you hang them upside down in a dim, dry area. These dried flowers can be used to decorate Christmas trees, dried arrangements, and wreaths. They have a natural bronze hue when let to dry on the plant in the garden, and the heads typically last until after Christmas.
In June 2001, Southern Living published an article on hydrangea propagation. The method is quite easy to use. Step 1: In the early summer, take eight- to twelve-inch tip cuts and remove the lowest pair of leaves. The cut ends should be wet before being dipped in rooting powder in step 2. 3. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with wet potting soil. Maintain the soil’s moisture and shade. Six to eight weeks should pass before the cutting roots. You can easily grow more plants by doing this. For hydrangeas to root and develop, water is essential.
I’m totally fixated on hydrangeas. I currently have twenty different Mopheads, ranging in color from white to various pink and blue tones, eight Lacecaps, twelve Annabelle, and fifteen Oakleaf towering over eight feet tall. The beds are watered using a soaker hose. fifteen years ago, I had five hydrangeas, and now I had over sixty.