Do Hydrangeas Grow In Georgia

Georgia has experienced perfect weather this year, and hydrangeas are enthusiastically flowering. There are more than 1,000 blooms to admire in Gibbs Gardens, including native and developed varieties. Hydrangeas are blossoming around two weeks earlier than what is thought to be their regular bloom time, supporting the idea that “the plants don’t read the books.”

Can hydrangeas be grown in Atlanta?

Hydrangea shrubs come in hundreds of different varieties, and they are all incredibly diverse. Depending on how hardy they are, different species will prosper in various growing zones. Luckily, the growth environment in the Atlanta region is favorable to all varieties of hydrangeas! Any hydrangea will look fantastic in your garden with the proper maintenance.

Bigleaf hydrangeas require partial shade, which entails receiving around 6 hours of direct sunlight, ideally in the morning. Hydrangea Macrophylla Your plant’s leaves won’t droop if you provide them with afternoon shade.

Use 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 for your March, May, and July fertilization. Make sure the soil is kept moist at all times. Mulch will aid in retaining moisture. These hydrangeas can alter their color. Use acid-forming fertilizer if you desire blue flowers. Use a fertilizer with an alkaline base if you desire pink blossoms.

In Atlanta, “Bigleaf” hydrangeas often bloom in June and July. When you prune the blooms towards the end of their life cycle, new blooms will result.

Before August 1st, prune ‘Bigleaf’ hydrangeas since new buds start to form in the late summer. You run the risk of removing prospective blossoms if you prune in the spring!

Large, white hydrangeas with the common name “Smooth” are native to the Southeast. They thrive in moist soil with some shade, and they work wonders in landscaping with trees. Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer in the late winter and cover the roots with mulch to prevent evaporation.

The hydrangea variety “Smooth” blooms on new growth rather than on growth from the previous year since it is a new wood bloomer. As a result, prune these hydrangeas in the final weeks of winter before the start of the new year’s growth. For best growth, remove the oldest stems and top prune the newest branches. Cut the entire plant to a height of 12 to limit size.

In June and July, expect blossoms. If the old blooms are removed after flowering, these plants are capable of producing a second bloom in August or September.

Hydrangea Paniculata: Also known as “Tree hydrangeas,” these “panicle varieties” are native to the Northeast but are hardy in the Atlanta region. The “Panicle” hydrangea requires more sun than its relatives, in contrast to most other hydrangeas. They favor sunny or partially shaded areas with moist, loamy soil. Use 10-10-10 fertilizer between April through June.

‘Panicle’ hydrangeas require late winter pruning since they bloom on new wood. Because they can grow to resemble trees with appropriate trimming, they are known as “tree” hydrangeas.

The majority of “Panicle” hydrangeas bloom late in the season, sometimes not blooming until early September. Typically, the blossoms start out white and turn pink as the season goes on.

Alternative Types:

Hydrangea Quercifolia: “Oakleaf” hydrangeas are endemic to the South and prefer damp, partially shady locations. These plants’ foliage is much more spectacular than their flowers. The leaves change color in the fall to a deep crimson and bronze. The bark peels in an interesting way in the winter. Use 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 for spring and summer fertilization.

Because ‘Oakleaf’ hydrangeas grow on old wood, prune them at the start of August or when the blooms start to wane. Don’t prune over the winter because new buds will form at the end of the summer. However, you can trim to encourage growth.

Hydrangea Petiolaris: Because they may reach 60–80 feet tall, “climbing” hydrangeas are excellent for ground cover in Atlanta. These need to be planted against brick walls or trellises because they resemble ivy a lot. Plant in a place with well-drained soil that is wet and somewhat shady. Although the leaves itself won’t be harmed, too much shade will decrease the amount of blossoms. Use 10-10-10 for spring fertilization.

Hydrangeas that climb are ancient wood bloomers. Just prune this variety to keep it under control.

Don’t Blow it all on Spring

Even though spring is undoubtedly on the way, the persistent chilly temperatures and sluggish precipitation have me wondering how much longer we will have to wait. When spring finally arrives, it will astound us as usual by releasing wave after wave of new blooms, much like a spectacular fireworks display: “Oh my gosh, ahh! But even spring must eventually come to an end, so if you’ve adorned your garden with spring-blooming plants—even native ones—summer will bring with it a lot of green.

Include some summer blooming shrubs and trees in your landscaping for a bloom show that lasts longer. If you need any inspiration, I just so happen to have some here.

In the early summer, both of the native hydrangea species to the Southeastern United States bloom. The relatively peaceful woodland shrub known as the smooth hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens, can be found in wet regions next to streams. However, a variety of cultivars, including the well-known “Annabelle,” have been discovered. It is simple to grow and frequently distributed among gardeners; a friend gave me a start. Hydrangea quercifolia, often known as oakleaf hydrangea, is a gorgeous shrub with lovely blooms, appealing leaves, good fall color, and fascinating bark. It is truly a four season shrub. Numerous cultivars have been developed, including dwarf varieties, varieties with double blossoms, and even one variety (dubbed “Little Honey”) with golden foliage.

There are several native azaleas that bloom later in the year, proving that azaleas are not simply for spring. The swamp azalea, Rhododendron viscosum, blooms in my yard in early June with beautiful white flowers. My Rhododendron prunifolium, or plumleaf azalea, begins blooming in late June and lasts through most of July. The hummingbirds prefer the crimson blossoms. Azaleas thrive in early light and afternoon shade. To keep their roots cool, they require proper mulching.

Bottlebrush Buckeye (Aesculusparviflora) will produce a summer-blooming show in a big sunny area that is sure to have the neighbors talking. Imagine a shrub the size of your car with hundreds of white, bottlebrush-shaped blossoms arching upward—my photo doesn’t do it justice. Butterflies and pollinators are drawn to the blossoms.

It’s important to mention a few trees that blossom late. Both evergreen and deciduous native species can be found in the genus Magnolia. Sweetbay magnolia, an evergreen tree, features lovely silver-back leaves and tiny, fragrant flowers. I’ve come to value the local deciduous magnolias. Visitors to my home are always amazed by the Bigleaf Magnolia’s (Magnolia macrophylla) large leaves since they give the tree a very tropical appearance similar to a banana tree. The flower is similarly enormous but only blooms for a short time.

The Lily of the Valley tree, sometimes known as sourwood (Oxydendrumarboreum), also blooms in the summer. My tree is so tall that occasionally I don’t notice it is in bloom until the small white bells have already started to fall to the ground. These blooms are beloved by bees as well. Those who are familiar with sourwood honey highly value it.

Late in the summer, clethra and hibiscus appear, two additional exceptional shrubs. Because of its fragrant summer blossoms, Clethra is also known as Summersweet. It thrives in garden soil and is typically found in damp environments. There are several varieties of Clethra alnifolia: ‘Sixteen Candles’ is a taller variety, while ‘Hummingbird’ is a low-growing shrub with white blooms. Look for the species form known as “Ruby Spice” if you enjoy pink blossoms. In extremely damp environments, Clethra has a propensity to sucker. Bees and other pollinators adore this plant, as you might expect.

Several hibiscus species are native to the Southeast, but I believe the scarlet rosemallow, Hibiscuscoccineus, is the most spectacular. This shrub has cutleaf foliage that somewhat resembles the leaves of an unauthorized plant. However, once it blooms, this plant can’t be mistaken for a hibiscus. This plant thrives in damp environments and is at home in swamps and marshes. This shrub will bloom from late summer until the first frost in a sunny location.

Other options include our native roses, such as the more popular Carolina rose, the climbing rose, and the swamp rose (Rosapalustris) (Rosacarolina). I just bought a Rosasetigera, and I’m excited to see how it does in my garden this year.

This was my first time cultivating a bell-shaped clematis (I already have Clematis virginiana naturally). After being totally devoured by a caterpillar, my new clematis didn’t open until late but then continued to bloom till the first frost. The purple bells on this plant are gorgeous, but I am unsure of what species it belongs to. Decumaria barbara, sometimes known as “decumbaria,” was another summer vine that blossomed for me this year (for the first time ever) “ascending a hydrangea. In my yard, this vine naturally grows, but I taught it to climb a sunny fence in the hopes of seeing some flowers. It was stunning.

I hope this gives you some inspiration. Consider all the seasons while selecting plants so that you can enjoy delightful surprises all year round. Come summer, you’ll be happy you made preparations now.

In Georgia, when may I plant hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas have huge bloom heads and exude an old-fashioned elegance. How to plant and take care of beautiful floral bushes is explained in our hydrangea growing guide. Additionally, learn the answers to frequently asked questions like “why aren’t my hydrangeas blossoming this year?”

About Hydrangeas

These elegant plants are simple to grow, withstand nearly any sort of soil, and produce an abundance of blossoms that are unmatched in the world of shrubs for their stunning flowers. Clear blue, vivid pink, frosty white, lavender, and rose blossoms sometimes grow on the same plant, enticing us with their colors.

From container gardens to shrub borders to group plantings, hydrangeas are great for a variety of garden locations. Breeders seem to give us more possibilities every year, and gardeners have countless expectations for bloom size and color. Varieties abound. Pay attention to the species listed below to get an idea of how your hydrangea will develop as some require different maintenance. The joys you experience will be enhanced when you know what to expect.

Enjoy this tribute to hydrangea beauty and read our guide below to discover how to grow hydrangeas.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

The majority of hydrangeas like fertile, moisture-rich soils that drain well. Compost can help improve bad soil.
Hydrangeas typically prefer some sun. In an ideal world, they would receive full sun in the morning and then some afternoon shade to avoid the intense midday sun. The Bigleaf Hydrangea (H. macrophylla), with its huge, prone-to-wilting leaves, is a prime example of this. Some kinds can withstand more direct sunlight.
Depending on the kind, place hydrangeas anywhere between 3 and 10 feet apart. Plants should always be spaced according to their anticipated mature size!

When to Plant Hydrangeas

The optimum season to plant hydrangeas is in the fall, followed by spring. The cooler shoulder seasons are the ideal times to plant shrubs because they will have plenty of time to build a strong root system before the intense heat of summer or the bitter cold of winter.
In the early morning or late afternoon, plant the shrubs. The plant is less prone to experience heat stress from direct sunshine because it is typically cooler.

How to Plant Hydrangeas

Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and examine the root ball. Snip off any rotten or dead sections, and if the plant is very root-bound, pry the roots free.
Make a hole that is two to three times as big and as deep as the root ball. The top of the planting hole should be level with the base of the plant, which is where the stem joins the earth.
After placing the plant in the hole, add enough soil to fill it halfway. generously hydrate. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil once the water has been absorbed.
once more, thoroughly rinse.

How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings

Cuttings of hydrangeas can be easily grown. They easily take root, and the process is a wonderful teaching tool for propagation. This is how you do it:

Find a branch on a mature hydrangea that is fresh growth and has not flowered. In comparison to older growth, new growth will appear lighter in color, and the stem won’t be as firm.
Make a horizontal incision 4 to 5 inches down from the branch’s tip. Make sure your cutting has at least three to four pairs of leaves.
Trim the cutting’s lowest pair of leaves so that they are flush with the stem. If you can afford to remove more than one pair of leaves, do so. Roots develop more readily from these leaf nodes. But make sure to leave at least two pairs of leaves at the cutting’s tip.
Remove the tip half of any leaves that are still pretty large by cutting them in half. This keeps the leaves from slamming into the sides of the plastic bag you’ll later use to cover the cutting (to keep the humidity up).
(Optional) Sprinkle rooting hormone and a plant antifungal powder on the stem’s leafless area (both available at a local hardware or garden store). This will promote roots and deter decay.
Prepare a small pot and put moistened potting soil inside. The cutting should be planted in the ground, buried down to the first remaining pair of leaves. Lightly water the area surrounding the stem to close any air spaces.
Wrap a plastic bag loosely around the entire pot. To prevent the cutting’s leaves from rotting, make sure the bag is not touching them. The bag can be supported by chopsticks or other such objects to keep it off the leaves.
Put the pot in a warm location that is protected from the wind and sun.
Only rewater your cutting after the top layer of soil is dry after checking on it every few days to make sure it isn’t decaying. In a few weeks, hopefully, the cutting will start to root! If you feel resistance when you gently tug on the cutting, roots have grown.

Watering

Make sure hydrangeas get enough water for the first year or two after planting and throughout any droughts.
Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. Three times a week of heavy watering is preferable to shallow watering. Root growth is promoted by this.
All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water.
If the soil is too dry, the leaves will wilt, and there won’t be enough moisture for the flowers to bloom.
To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose.
The best time to water hydrangeas is in the morning to protect them from disease and get them ready for the heat of the day.
Under your hydrangeas, spread organic mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist, gradually add nutrients, and enhance soil texture.

Fertilizing

You might not need to fertilize hydrangeas if your soil is rich. When fertilizer is applied in excess, blossoms are sacrificed in favor of green growth. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.

Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times.

Several mild fertilizer applications in March, May, and June are beneficial for bigleaf hydrangeas.
Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.

Winter Protection

Cover plants with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall, at least 18 inches deep. If at all feasible, create cages out of chicken wire or snow fencing and cover the entire plant, including the tip, with the cages. (Avoid using maple leaves; they have a tendency to mat after becoming wet and may suffocate the plant.)

How to Prune a Hydrangea

Many of the queries from readers concern hydrangea trimming. It makes sense that it’s unclear because it relies on the hydrangea kind. Fortunately, identifying which type you have makes determining the best pruning strategy simple. Discover the fundamentals below, then read more about pruning different varieties of hydrangea here.

Pruning Common Hydrangeas

The Bigleaf cultivar of Hydrangea macrophylla is the most popular garden hydrangea shrub. (For more, see below.)

Hydrangeas with large leaves, such as Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris), are pruned AFTER the summer blooms have passed. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood).

Avoid pruning after August 1 since flower buds actually grow in the late summer and bloom the next season.
Dead wood should only be removed in the fall or very early spring.
To stimulate branching and fullness, trim one or two of the oldest stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.
Pruning the stems all the way to the base is necessary if the plant is old, neglected, or injured. For the following season, you’ll lose the flowers, but you’ll also revive the plant for subsequent ones.
The huge Mopheads should not be deadheaded (faded flowers removed); instead, you should leave them over the winter and trim them back in the early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). Deadheading Lacecaps is OK; simply trim down to the second set of leaves below the bloom head.
Avoid pruning unless it is absolutely required while growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) cultivars in Zones 4 and 5, and then only after blooming. If not, merely remove dead stems in the spring.

Pruning Other Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas called Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) are clipped BEFORE flower buds develop. On stems from the current season, these kinds blossom (“new wood).

When the plant is dormant in the late winter, prune. The plant will therefore grow new buds in the spring that will result in blossoms even if the winter kills the buds.
In general, avoid pruning to “shape the bush” and just remove dead branches.