The three most troublesome mammals in my neighborhood so far are squirrels, rabbits, and deer. I think most suburban gardeners have to deal with some mammals in their gardens. That is, until this big, happy groundhog moved in under my neighbor’s shed. We believe the groundhog has a mate as well. (We’re not sure if they all appear to be the same.)
Echinacea purpurea, which was sheared to the ground (sorry, goldfinches!) and the wasted flowers of comfrey, which I don’t miss at all, were the first plants to be harmed by groundhogs. So far, in my backyard, that is all.
The sweet potato vine is clearly damaged in these before and after images, which were shot one day apart in my front garden. So transient! And I’d snapped the “before” picture so I could exclaim, “Look Mano Flowers! or something like that, how gorgeous this combo looks. Ha!
Along with several other vines (Crossvine, Sweet Autumn Clematis, and Purple Hyacinth Vine), our local groundhogs have also stripped the leaves off a number of the Morning Glory vines I’m training as privacy screens, although Morning Glory is the most vigorous of them all. Until the ‘hogs got ’em, that is (a fitting nickname, given their appetite).
These few plants, out of the numerous I have available for the local mammals, are, happily, in keeping with what my research indicates about their preferred diet. For instance, I discovered this list of plants groundhogs consume in Cosmos and Cleome’s Pennsylvania garden. There are also echinacea, sweet potato vine, and morning glory. They’re the only plants on this list that I’m growing this year, which is wonderful news, so that gave me hope.
Until I carried out more study and discovered that “Groundhogs can survive up to six years in the wild, with two to three years being the average.” More likely six, considering there aren’t many groundhog predators in the area (just the occasional red fox).
It’s interesting to note that “whistle-pigs” get their moniker because they whistle loudly to alert the rest of the colony when they are worried. When fighting, critically hurt, or captured by a predator, groundhogs may squeal. Low barks and a sound made by teeth grinding are two other noises that groundhogs have been known to generate. Pay attention.
Other than “primarily wild grasses and other vegetation, including berries and agricultural crops, when available…sheep sorrel, timothy-grass, buttercup, tearthumb, agrimony, red and black raspberries, mulberries, buckwheat, plantain, wild lettuce, all varieties of clover, and alfalfa,” research-based lists of what they consume are difficult to find. I had no idea about some of those! Clover is present everywhere around us (though not in MY lawn-less garden.)
They particularly enjoy some garden produce like carrots, beans, and peas, according to another source. To get at apples and pears, they will even scale trees. A single bite from a dozen different peppers or zucchini can cause a groundhog to destroy a whole garden. The farmers’ seasonal opportunity to sell pumpkins at Halloween is ruined when they do the same to them. I’m relieved I’m not attempting to provide food for humans in my garden.
It’s depressing to learn that “An adult groundhog will eat more than a pound of vegetation everyday” while discussing groundhog damage. Early in June, woodchucks’ metabolism slows, they eat more, and they gain weight—up to 100% more—as they start to store fat for the next hibernation and late winter.
But enough reading—get let’s to work! I purchased a few bottles of this repellent and am currently spraying the remnants of my most delicate plants.
And me and my neighbors have decided to pool our funds to hire a wildlife-trapping business to remove our “hogs.” Not just for the benefit of our gardens, either. We are finding out about potential harm to the houses and sheds they reside beneath.
Who or what consumes coneflower?
Do equines enjoy coneflowers? Coneflowers receive a “B” on Rutgers University’s assessment scale, which ranges from Rarely Damaged to Frequently Severely Damaged. That indicates that deer “seldom severely damage” them. These trees and shrubs are suitable for planting in gardens that are vulnerable to deer damage or in locations with a high density of deer. Many organizations mention coneflowers on their “deer resistant lists” because deer rarely harm them. But young or recently planted plants run the risk of being eaten.
Although coneflowers are frequently thought to be resistant to deer, what other animals will consume them? Rabbits are most likely to blame if anything has been nibbling on your plants and you can simply rule out deer as the perpetrator. Young coneflower stems and leaves are a favorite feast of rabbits. If the blooms are close enough to the ground, they can even consume them.
Which flowers are poisonous to groundhogs?
Citrus balm (Melissa officinalis) Infant Grass (Miscanthus sinensis) Montbretia (Crocosmia hybrids) Decorative onion (Allium sp.) Plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) Casino Plant (Kniphofia uvaria) Aromatic Geraniums (Pelargonium sp.) Sedum (Sedum sp.)
Epsom Salts
Sprinkled Epsom salts will deter groundhogs from entering or leaving burrows. Try placing a tin pie plate with salts inside it close to your plants if they are being eaten. Replace following a rain.
Castor Oil
Castor oil applied in and around the burrow holes can be an efficient deterrent (they detest the smell), but only when you are certain that the rodents are not around; otherwise, they will remain underground. You’ll need to keep an eye out to notice when they go looking for food.
Human Hair Clippings
Because they don’t like the smell of humans, hair clippings from your neighborhood barber or hairdresser can also be effective. Place clippings in the vicinity of the groundhog’s favorite spots. Alternatively, you can put the trimmings in a fine mesh bag and affix it to a post close to the groundhog’s home to prevent it from blowing away in the wind.
Soiled Kitty Litter
Pouring used cat litter (used) around one of the den openings (but not the other) also works since it gives off a predatory odor. They can choose to leave their burrow rather than remain there by leaving one exit hole unscented.
Offensive Scents
Groundhogs hate some odours more than others. You might be able to drive them away if you can make sure that these odors are prevalent around the garden and close to their burrows:
- Groundhogs should stay away from certain regions of the garden, so crush some garlic cloves and make a paste. The strong stench is too strong for their delicate noses.
- Try sprinkling lavender across the garden. Although to us it smells wonderful, groundhogs find it repulsive and stay away from the regions where it is. They don’t enjoy the scent of basil, chives, lemon balm, mint, sage, thyme, rosemary, oregano, or any other herb for that matter.
Do you know why groundhogs are called “whistle pigs”? In this video, pay attention to the noise they make. You might have mistaken it for a bird at first.
*Before relocating any animals from your property, always consult with your state’s wildlife department. There might be rules in your region that forbid you from doing so. Some states forbid moving groundhogs because of concerns about rabies spreading. Depending on where you reside, you might want to ask them what a safe distance is.
How can I prevent wildlife from consuming my coneflowers?
Intriguing plants called coneflowers, or echinacea, feature daisy-like flowers with elevated centers and drooping petals that are overflowing with alluring shades of purple, pink, yellow, and even white.
Your coneflower petals may be deteriorating due to a variety of factors, such as earwigs or rabbits. By assessing your damage, ruling out potential solutions, and focusing in on the core issue, you must transform into a sort of detective. In the early morning and once more when the light starts to set, examine the plants, dig through the soil, and do these checks. There will ultimately be some hints.
Here is a list of some potential pesky pests: Japanese beetles consume the blossoms, only leaving behind the fibrous veins as a remnant. Certain insecticides can be used to manage them, but please use ones that are safe for the environment and won’t harm people, animals, or other plants. You can uncover techniques for humanely getting rid of these annoying intruders with the correct investigation. Often, all it takes to kill them is to toss them into a bucket of soapy water. • Aphids: These little, soft-bodied plant invaders siphon sap, depriving the plant of essential nutrients required for robust growth. Plants will appear less robust, with distorted leaves and yellowish hue. Insecticidal soaps are effective against aphids. • Eriophyid mites: These tiny mites inhabit the buds, where they gorge themselves on nutrition. Since they are so little, we cannot see them with the naked eye and must examine the damage to determine who the culprits are. The harm will cause the developing blooms to have twisted, withered petals. Cut the plant down to the ground and remove the diseased blossoms right away. To promote fresh, healthy development, make sure to remove all plant debris from the area. • Rabbits: Despite being fluffy and adorable, rabbits have been known to consume coneflower petals and foliage. Spray some hot pepper on your plants if you think these fuzzy hoppers are the culprits. Make sure the spray you use isn’t harmful to people, animals, or plants. • Earwigs: These nocturnal insects spend the day hiding out under mulch, under buildings, and in other chilly, damp places. On rare occasions, they will eat coneflower petals, leaving behind wilted, ragged blossoms. Try to rid the bed of weeds, compost, and thick mulch to prevent them from invading your coneflowers and, in doing so, eliminate the possibility of creating an ideal earwig habitat. Place tubes—which can be constructed of newspaper or plastic—around the coneflowers in the hopes of trapping a sleeping earwig in the early morning to determine if earwigs are the culprits.
Picture: H. Zell ———————————————————— Use Good Bug Bad Bug to quickly identify the most prevalent beneficial and invasive insects in your garden.
You can learn a simple, workable method for getting rid of invasive, undesired plants from your garden by reading How To Eradicate Invasive Plants.
The free download Garden How To: Solutions to Common Problems teaches you how to identify, treat, and keep pests out of your garden via the use of practical solutions and diagnostic tools.
Want to use certain plants and design techniques to get around any potential gardening problems? The Smart Gardening Guide: Problem Solving is worth a look.
You can browse through more than 100 of the most popular “do’s and don’ts for the garden” in Decoding Gardening Advice.
My cornflowers are being eaten by what?
Every square yard of your garden may have 200 slugs in cool, humid areas. They will often consume older decaying matter and significant decomposing organisms, but if those are not present, they will consume nearly all crop plants (though they have their preferences). Slugs are a serious issue when it’s cool and rainy outside. They are particularly hungry and, when in large numbers, will strip nearly mature plants or destroy an entire bed of seedlings in one night. They can produce up to three generations per year and proliferate quickly. Since they are hermaphrodites, they are able to lay 400 spherical, white eggs per year without even mating.
The glistening trail of mucus that moving mollusks leave behind helps you to recognize their work most of the time. They often begin chewing leaves at the edges and may completely consume a young plant, including the stem and some of the tougher leaf midribs. Slugs had possessed snail-like shells, but they gave them up in favor of their ability to conceal themselves in soil cracks and beneath boulders (they burrow down into the soil when it gets too cold or hot). Keep such material out of the garden because they can also be found behind boards, rocks, and leaves. In fact, boards work well as slug traps as long as you check them each morning.
Snails spend the day hiding in bushes or crevices in your walls, then emerge at night to feed. Removing all of their potential hiding spots is the simplest approach to get rid of snails. The side of a cover crop bed that is next to a lot of vegetation can be fully defoliated, but the other side will remain unaffected (though the defoliation will slowly spread). Be ready because clearing an old crop can drive the snails elsewhere.
Hand picking: Hand picking is the most efficient and environmentally friendly method of controlling slugs and snails. If you want to see much of an impact, do this often, preferably late at night or early in the morning. You’ll quickly learn where they like to hide. Slugs frequently conceal themselves in the soil’s cracks, and you can frequently dig around a harmed plant to identify the offender. These critters can be either crushed as you pick them or dropped into a pail of salt water.
You can gather them in a bucket of leaves and move them a short distance if you don’t want to kill them. If you have any gardening competitors, you could leave them in the specific garden where the competitors are.
Barriers: Hand selecting won’t be sufficient to address all of your mollusc issues. Although they travel slowly, they are actually rather mobile (some may walk a mile in a few days), and more can just wander over to where there is food. Ideally, you could build some sort of obstruction, like a 2-foot-wide trail made of crushed oyster shells or cinders. Sawdust, wood ashes, and sharp sand are also thought to function, but they must be kept dry or supplied periodically. The razor-sharp diatomaceous earth shards are fatal to slugs and snails because of their fragile bodies (they are also harmful to human lungs; use a mask). Other barriers include wire screens, tilted boards with grease on the undersides, and copper strips (which they won’t pass).
Trapping: Mollusks can be captured using cups of beer, milk, or yeast that has been dissolved in sugar water (and a few other creatures). Place this in a cup so that the rim is an inch or so above the soil’s level. For these traps to work, there needs to be a lot of them—at least one per square yard. Additionally, traps built of boards, grapefruit skins, chopped potatoes, and cabbage leaves are also possible; however, these do not kill, only facilitate collection (you must check them daily).
Mulch should be avoided since slugs can readily hide there, therefore it is typically not used in places where slugs are a major issue.
Ducks are one of the best pest controllers since they adore slugs and snails. They are also enjoyed by chickens, although they cause more agricultural damage. Slugs and snails are all killed by toads, snakes, birds, and ground beetles—possibly the most significant of these). Even carnivorous slugs that consume other slugs exist (Testacella species) (cannibal slugs).
Metaldehyde: This poison is frequently used to kill slugs, however it is ineffective, likely only killing approximately 10% of those present. It must be handled with caution because it is harmful to mammals and ground beetles, two major predators (poisoned slugs may poison slug predators). Because predators are typically absent there, the greenhouse is where it functions best.
The best option for low-maintenance beauty is wildflowers. Tricia demonstrates how to start your own wildflower area.
The term “Last Frost Date” (LFD) designates a rough date for the final deadly frost of spring.
The term “First Frost Date” (FFD) designates a rough date for the winter’s first fatal frost.