Pelargoniums, also referred to as “geraniums,” are decorative perennial plants that bloom for months on end with a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers. Some plants begin to bloom in the spring, but most do so from early June until the first hard frosts of the fall. They can bloom all year long if they are grown inside.
Because pelargoniums are not cold and frost hardy, they shouldn’t be confused with perennial plants that are cultivated outside all year round, such as cranesbill or the closely related true hardy geranium.
In addition to inside, in conservatories, and in greenhouses, pelargoniums are utilized to create vibrant displays in beds and borders, hanging baskets, and various containers. Pelargoniums have their own national society because of their widespread popularity. Local organizations like The Pelargonium & Geranium Society are also mentioned.
Cultivation
Pelargoniums should be taken indoors into a sheltered habitat in the fall because while they can usually withstand heat, drought, and strong frosts, they cannot. If kept at a temperature of at least 10-13C (50-55F), they can bloom all year.
The great majority of pelargoniums require full sun, or at the absolute least, excellent light.
While zonal pelargoniums may take some light shade, regal pelargoniums prefer light shade.
They require a healthy, moist, yet well-drained soil in order to flower extensively. Use an excellent multipurpose compost or one with extra John Innes for growing in pots.
Pelargonium varieties
Pelargoniums come in six basic types, with additional subtypes for some of them:
- Zonal pelargoniums: These are the bushy, upright ‘bedding’ pelargoniums that are cultivated outdoors in pots or in beds and borders and have enormous, single or double flowers. The term “Zonal” describes the leaf markings, many of which are very elegant and ornamental.
- Pelargoniums with ivy leaves: These are the trailing types, with fleshy leaves and single or double flowers in a variety of colors, used in hanging baskets or as container edges.
- Regal pelargoniums: These grow taller, bushier plants with single, infrequently double, flowers that are typically pink, purple, or white. Typically, they are raised outside in pots or for interior displays.
- Angel pelargoniums are smaller, more compact, and bushier than regal pelargoniums.
- Pelargoniums with scented leaves: As their name suggests, these plants are mostly planted for their intensely fragrant leaves, however they also produce pretty little solitary flowers. The leaves could also be distinctively lobed or toothed, variegated, or both.
- All additional pelargoniums that don’t fit into any other category are considered unique pelargoniums.
Pelargoniums are a specialty of various nurseries. Visit their websites to view the extensive selection, which includes photographs to assist you in deciding which ones to purchase:
Provide Full Sun
Make sure to give geraniums a lot of sunlight to encourage blossoming. A full day of four to six hours of sun will work wonders! Give your potted plants exposure to the south and west for profusion of blossoms.
Deadheading
Geraniums must be deadheaded in order to bloom all summer. To encourage the plant to produce new blooms, remove the spent flowers. To concentrate the plant’s energy on growing new flowers, cut off fading blooms and stems.
Don’t Grow in Large Pots
When growing geraniums, be careful not to choose pots that are wider than 7-8 inches. With enough soil held in place and a healthy plant that will continue to bloom, this size is ideal.
Remove Sick and Yellow leaves Regularly
Regularly remove the dead and yellow foliage to keep the plant looking tidy and to direct its energy toward growing new blossoms.
Apply High Potash Fertilizer
Feed geraniums a 9-6-12 mix to keep them blooming more. The high potassium concentration aids in photosynthesis by supplying nutrients evenly to every area of the plant. Dosage and directions should be found on the label.
Apply all-purpose liquid fertilizer that has been diluted to a fourth of its strength every 4-5 weeks while the plant is growing as well.
Water Only When the Soil is Dry
Keep the soil dry; geraniums are more susceptible to damage from overwatering than from underwatering. Remember to water when the topsoil feels a little dry to the touch. Ensure the container includes drainage holes as well.
Does geranium bloom year-round?
Geraniums are profuse bloomers that require little maintenance and provide colorful flowers from spring till fall. In most zones, geranium plants are planted as annuals, however in zones 10 and 11, they are regarded as evergreen perennials. This well-known potted plant, which is native to South Africa and is frequently called a geranium, is actually a pelargonium. (For further information on the variations between geraniums and pelargoniums, see below.)
How can winter geraniums be made to bloom?
I DON’T WANT TO BE BURDENED WITH TIRED, OLD, MONSTER-SIZE PLANTS WHEN IT COMES TO OVERWINTERING GERANIUMS. Fresh, young, eager-to-grow geraniums that are manageable in size for the window garden’s ornamental purposes are what I’m after. Do you share my desire? Then allow me to precisely demonstrate how to prepare these common summer plants for interior winter splendor.
A suitable time to restore and propagate zonal and scented-leaved geraniums is in the middle of August or at least six weeks before the first anticipated frost. This provides the plants plenty of time to heal from root stress and for cut stems to develop roots before the major shift from the outside to the inside.
I’ve never had a problem with the restoration and propagation techniques listed below:
Cut the plant back to within an inch of its life, or to the point where the lowest leaves may be discovered, when working with a zonal geranium that has grown all summer (like “Puritan White” above). Be harsh here.
Your plant should resemble this once virtually all of the top growth has been removed.
Pull the geranium out of its pot next. Place one hand over the plant’s top, where it may support the soil and top growth, to do this in a “professional manner”. Invert the pot next, and while keeping the base in place with your other hand, strike the rim of the pot against a hard surface.
It’s likely that you’ll find the plant to be extremely root-bound. We’ll take care of this.
Slice the roots in thirds using a sharp knife. You should cut away roots in direct proportion to the amount of foliage that has vanished.
After that, cut vertically to cut through the dirt and roots as shown above. The objective is to be able to center the plant in its previous pot with a one-half to one-inch space between the dirt now present and the pot’s walls.
Now carefully examine your geranium. Do you notice any rotten or dead stems? Cut off these. Only three or four stems that exhibit signs of vitality are required.
Then fill the pot with additional potting soil until it reaches about halfway up the edges.
Put the plant in the pot’s center now. If centering appears to be unattainable, then remove more soil and roots to produce a rounded form.
Afterwards, secure it with a paintbrush, a Popsicle stick, or a plant label (as above).
When planted correctly, there should be a one-inch space for watering between the soil’s surface and the pot’s top.
Thoroughly soak the plant until extra moisture drains out of the drainage hole. Remove any soil that is adhering to the leaves by rinsing them.
That’s all, then! You now possess a freshly restored geranium that will bring you joy during the rest of the winter.
What should we deal with all the stems that we cut now? All right, each of these can develop into a new plant.
The stems should then be left alone for a few hours (or perhaps a few days) to allow the cut end to “callus,” or dry out. It is unlikely that a callused cut will decay.
Stipules, or the little flaps along the stem, should also be removed. These could decay in soggy ground.
There isn’t a picture for the following three steps because I don’t believe you need it: Take a 4-inch clay pot, and cover the drainage hole with a piece of shattered pottery. Then add a new mixture to the saucepan.
To a depth that roughly corresponds to the length of your cutting, press a pencil into the earth in the center.
And then, use your thumbs to firmly press the earth down. Or “thumb,” if you are working while holding a camera.
Just add a little more mixture and adjust the stem if, after pressing down, the soil level lowers more than an inch below the top of the pot.
Give the plant plenty of water (until excess drips through the drainage hole). Simply spray the leaves once or twice daily until roots grow if wilting symptoms appear. When new growth is visible, your cuttings will have taken root.
Place the plant outside in a well-lit but dim area. After the young plants have developed roots, you can move them to a location that gets half-day sun (or full-day sun in a window garden).
By the way, perfumed leafed geraniums can be propagated and restored using the same techniques. Unfortunately, they are becoming rarer by the day, therefore the only way to ensure that you will have them from year to year is to propagate them. My rose-scented “Lady Plymouth” is shown above. This variety’s leaves can be crushed and added to your bathwater. You can also prepare scented icing for cakes and cupcakes by steeping the leaves in full-fat milk.
You can view images of the scented-leaved and large-flowered geraniums I’ve used in my many winter window gardens throughout the years by visiting the houseplants category on this website. The lavender-pink “Americana” made a lovely sight in my music room window in December 2011.
America appears beautiful in my herb garden as well. It recently drew a hummingbird moth here.
Indoor Culture: Give your geraniums as much direct sunlight as an east or south window will allow for indoor success. While plants grown from cuttings often don’t set buds until the days become longer in February or March, restored plants can bloom as early as December. In February 2008, I grew zonal, scented-leaved, and fancy-leaved geraniums in the window of my library/den.
You don’t have an east or south window? Put the plants in front of some fluorescent lights. I can tell you that zonal geraniums will bloom in January virtually as well as they do in summer if they are illuminated for 16 hours each day.
Once the plants are established, I use a high-phosphorus, low-nitrogen plant food to promote flowering. One and a quarter teaspoons of formula per gallon of water are fed to the window garden test subjects. Due to their prolonged exposure to light, I raise the food for the window garden plants to one and a half teaspoons.
Well. I sincerely hope that this tutorial was at least somewhat helpful to you. Maybe you’ll tell me by posting a remark. Your words are the light of my life as always.
Are geraniums annuals or perennials?
With the exception of the warmest regions of North America, garden geraniums are regarded as annuals. Having said that, you can make them become perennials by giving the plants protection during the winter. Garden perennials are dug out and moved into a cool, protected setting for the winter in a procedure known as “over-wintering.” Geraniums in pots can simply be brought inside for the winter. The plants must be exposed to cool temperatures of around 55 degrees F while being shielded from chilly nights and frosts in order for them to blossom properly in the spring.
Can you grow geraniums from seed?
While some varieties of geraniums can be grown from seeds, stem cuttings have long been the preferred method of propagation. In vermiculite or sterile soil, most geraniums can be easily grown from stem cuttings. New seed-grown cultivars enable the indoor establishment of new plants. From seed, Multibloom, Cameo, and Maverick all produce nicely. Geraniums from seed need to be started as soon as possible. Midway through January, sow geranium seeds indoors in a warm, sunny location.
Growing geraniums indoors vs outdoors
Both indoor and outdoor geranium care are extremely similar. Both demand moderate fertilizing, careful watering, and lots of sunlight. Geraniums need a little extra care when being grown outside in terms of soil drainage and moisture content. Containers used indoors have drainage holes that assist control moisture.
Geraniums may be readily grown in pots and moved inside and outside of your home, which is helpful if you live somewhere with severe winters. Bring your potted plants indoors when the seasons change and the temperatures start to fall to safeguard your lovely plants.
As previously mentioned, geraniums grow well inside and make for lovely year-round houseplants. Garden maintenance and caring for geraniums in pots are extremely similar. They do, however, need chilly springtime conditions to start setting buds. Your plants should bloom more readily if you move them to a cool area of the house.
What plants grow well with geraniums?
Beneficial companion plants include geraniums. They are a traditional ally for roses since they deter numerous insects and pests. You can also grow them with other plants like corn, grapes, and cabbage that are frequently targeted by pests.
Are geraniums good for hanging baskets?
Geranium hanging baskets are a great option because they are filled to the brim with vibrant blooms. Hang baskets in areas with lots of sunlight and protection from the wind. A southern-facing window is perfect if you’re hanging geraniums inside.
How do you put geraniums away for winter?
Geraniums are very resilient, and by taking a few easy precautions, you can ensure that they endure the winter and provide you with enjoyment all year long. Bring your plants inside if they are already in pots.
Make sure to bring them inside before the first frost if you’ve planted them in your garden or flowerbeds. Dig them up gently, then plant them in 8-inch pots with a light potting soil. During this stage, you can divide your plants in half to reproduce them. Plant new roots to increase your delight by twofold. Place them close to a bright window when you bring them indoors.
How often do geraniums bloom each year?
The numerous Geranium species may have slightly variable bloom times, but they all tend to bloom in the spring. For instance, the wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), which thrives in USDA zones 3 to 8, blooms between April and May, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The bloody geranium (Geranium sanguineum), which thrives in USDA zones 3 to 9, blooms between May and June, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. According to Missouri Botanical Garden, the zonal geranium (Pelargoniumhortorum), which thrives in zones 10 to 11, blooms freely.
Numerous varieties of geraniums are kept indoors during the winter months before being moved outside during the warm months. Geraniums can bloom all year long if kept indoors and given ample light. To get the most flowers and to promote bloom production, situate them ideally where they may receive four to six hours of daily sunlight and deadhead the plants on a regular basis.