Do Geraniums Die In Winter

If given the proper care, geraniums can survive the winter. Geraniums are notoriously difficult for gardeners to overwinter.

Can geraniums endure winter weather?

One of the most popular plants for containers and gardens is the geranium. Their vibrant hues and strong, well-shaped foliage are unmatched. Geraniums typically come in larger sizes in the garden center, which raises their price compared to other summer annuals.

Geraniums may be easily kept over the winter and enjoyed again the following year, unlike many of their competitors. Here’s how to overwinter your magnificent geraniums indoors if you don’t want to see them killed by frost this fall.

Methods of Overwintering Geraniums

Geraniums can be preserved in three different ways to endure the winter:

  • inside in pots during the winter.
  • Keep the naked, dormant roots.
  • To create new plants, propagate cuttings.

Fall:

  • Carefully dig out your geraniums before the first frost and pot them in 6- to 8-inch-diameter containers with lightweight potting soil. You can skip a step if yours are already in containers! Any that appear sick or diseased should be discarded.
  • Reduce each plant by a third to a half. The cuttings should be saved and rooted to produce new geraniums.
  • Give the pots plenty of water.
  • Put the pots in a cool, well-lit area. Temperatures around 60 F in a sunny window are ideal for geranium overwintering. They struggle in dimly lit or hot environments.

Spring:

  • Give your geraniums a mid-spring fertilization.
  • When the threat of frost has gone, put them back outside. You have the option of leaving them in their containers or replanting them in your flowerbeds.

Overwintering Bare-Root Geraniums

Geraniums may endure winter dormancy if maintained above freezing since they have great thick roots and stems. Geraniums can also be stored as bare roots after going dormant. Take these actions:

  • Carefully pull out your geraniums and shake all the soil off the roots before the first frost.
  • To keep them, place them in unsealed paper bags or hang them upside-down in a cool, dry area at roughly 50 degrees Fahrenheit (a garage is perfect).
  • Pull out your geraniums every a month or so and give the roots an hour or so in water to soak.
  • Then let them dry completely before re-storing.
  • The stems should remain solid, but the leaves will eventually all fall off. The plant is probably doomed if the stems start to shrivel as well!
  • Check your geraniums in the early spring.
  • Eliminate any shriveled areas.
  • Lightly prune them, removing any dead tips.
  • Put the roots in water that has some plant food mixed in for a few hours.
  • Place the roots in potting soil and give them plenty of water.
  • Put your potted geraniums in a window that gets plenty of sun or beneath a grow light. It can take them a few weeks to awaken and begin to grow!
  • You can bring them outside once all threat of frost has passed.

Propagating Geraniums From Cuttings

The final alternative is to let go of your original geraniums and take care of fresh ones that were propagated from cuttings. This is how:

  • Cut off sections of the branches that are three to four inches long with a sharp knife or pair of shears. Instead of a side branch, the terminal end of the stem—the very tip end—produces the best cuttings.
  • Remove any flower buds, and pinch off the leaves in the bottom third of the cutting.
  • After removing the leaves, sprinkle the wounds where the cuttings were made with rooting hormone by dipping the bottom of each cutting in it.
  • Each cutting should be planted with peat moss, sand, or perlite in the bottom third. You can grow them in trays or in individual pots (plastic planting trays are available with a clear cover to hold in moisture).
  • Set the pots on a drainage tray and give them a thorough watering, ideally starting at the bottom (fill the tray with water and allow it to soak to keep from washing away the rooting hormone).
  • Use the tray’s included cover or cover your pots with clear plastic.
  • Place away from the sun in a sunny window. Although they require light, your clippings cannot withstand direct sunlight.
  • By wetting the drainage tray, removing the plastic cover, or sprinkling the plants and soil with a fine mist, you may maintain the moisture level of the planting medium.
  • In 6 to 8 weeks, your cuttings should begin to root. You can transfer them to their own pots with standard potting soil before the beginning of the next spring.
  • Your new plants will branch out if you fertilize them and prune the new stems.

Can I keep geraniums in pots outside during the winter?

Geraniums are frequently planted in containers, which is a fantastic option if you want to overwinter them.

In the fall, before the first frost, if your geraniums are already in pots, you can simply relocate the pots under cover into a sunny, airy, and frost-free location, such a greenhouse or conservatory.

According to David Taylor, vice chairman of the UK Pelargonium and Geranium Society, “the best area would be a greenhouse and the ideal climate would be to have a heater in place to preserve temperatures above freezing when frost does threaten.” (new tab opens) (PAGS).

You can dig up, repot, and move the pots under cover if your geraniums were grown in a border.

Geraniums should always be pruned back before being brought indoors, whether they are already potted or have been removed from the border and repotted, according to David Taylor of PAGS.

“First, you should prune your plants back by roughly two-thirds; if lifting from outside beds, they could need to be pruned down by three-quarters or perhaps more. Do this pruning only while the roots are dry; otherwise, the remaining stems will wither.”

‘Also, get rid of any diseased, damaged, or dead sections you see. Make sure they are bug-free before bringing them inside for the winter,’ adds Emily Fernandes, a Californian small-space gardener and HouseGrail expert (opens in new tab).

Geraniums are best kept in a semi-dormant state while enclosed, as this means they won’t need as much water or food. “Place them in a partially sunny area, water them every two to three weeks, and maintain a humidity level of about 50%.” According to Emily Fernandes, a consultant at HouseGrail, “they go dormant over the winter like most other plants to store their energy for the growing season” (opens in new tab).

Hardy Geraniums vs. Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums should not be confused with hardy geraniums. You might be wondering what makes a geranium different from a pelargonium. Similar to some siblings, they are both members of the same plant family, but they could not be more unlike.

Pelargoniums cannot withstand frost, while hardy geraniums can. Pelargoniums are usually treated as annuals and replanted each year, but true hardy geraniums are perennials that grow back every year. Pelargoniums die in the winter.

Prune your Hardy Geraniums

Your sturdy geraniums will look their best and promote new growth if you prune them properly. By correctly pruning your hardy geraniums after the blooming season, you can encourage repeat blooming. The majority of geraniums can be cut back twice in a single season, which allows them to bloom at least three times.

When to Prune

Your hardy geraniums should be pruned in accordance with the season you are in. Rozanne will require various cuts in the spring, summer, and fall. To maintain your blooms rich and healthy, mark your calendar and adhere to our seasonal trimming recommendations.

What tools you need

Your geraniums may be pruned fairly easily. All you’ll need is the ability to prune, a pair of sharp pruners, your favorite mulch, and your favorite gardening gloves. Watch this video to learn more about pruning strategies in detail.

How to prune

You shouldn’t be concerned that pruning your flower’s back will harm her. The majority of hardy geraniums require trimming to promote new growth and prevent them from encroaching upon other plants.

Trim the plant back to within a few inches of the ground or to about an inch above the main stem once the flowering is completed or you find old growth. Remove any brown stems or yellow leaves after that by going inside.

Soon after trimming, more leaves will start to appear. Some resilient geraniums even have the ability to blossom again. Maintaining correct pruning on your plants encourages new development and keeps them from spilling out throughout your landscape.

What pruning advice do you prefer? Share them with us in a comment on our Facebook page!

How should geraniums be cared for over the winter?

Geraniums are incredibly simple to store for the winter—just place them in a cardboard box or a paper bag and secure the top. The following advice will help them survive:

  • Maintain geraniums in a cool, dry area with a temperature of 50 to 60 degrees F.
  • Once a month or so, remove dried leaves from the bag or box and check for mold.
  • Check the stems quickly at the same time; they should be stiff. Throw away any dried-out, shriveled stems you uncover.
  • If you see that the plants are becoming really dry and crispy, give them a brief soak in water.
  • Plants with stems that appear to be blackened or mildewed should be disposed away.

Geraniums are typically kept in a sack upside down. Although the exact cause is unknown, one idea holds that it does so by pushing moisture into the stems. Whatever the cause, storing them in this manner is neither harmful nor necessarily harmful.

How long do geraniums in pots last?

My geraniums are no longer blooming. I fed them, but it was ineffective. What’s the issue?

You might be feeding them too much. Pelargoniums, a genus of geraniums native to the Mediterranean, flourish in full sunlight and relatively infertile soil. Overfeeding can be the issue if you have a lot of foliage growth and the plants appear healthy. For a while, stop giving them food. But if your plants are becoming older and their stems are getting lanky, it might be time to propagate. Although they can live much longer, geraniums typically only bloom for two years on average before becoming woody and losing their blooming ability. Thankfully, geranium propagation is simple. Simply cut stem tips with at least two pairs of healthy leaves from a four-inch stem. Cut the stem at the lowest point, dunk it in hormone rooting powder, and then plant it in a mixture of half sand and half peat moss. In around three weeks, repot in ordinary soil after providing adequate watering and covering with plastic to assist preserve moisture. Sticking the cutting in water and letting it grow roots before potting is a simpler method.

For the winter, should geraniums be pruned back?

You should prune a perennial geranium after it has bloomed all season and starts to wither. This helps the plant store energy for the spring while simultaneously keeping it dormant for the winter. This could need to happen any time between August and late October, depending on your zone. Cut perennial geraniums down to 2 or 3 inches above the soil with a pair of trustworthy shears, ideally at nodes or new growth points. Take out any more flowers or foliage. You’ll have a collection of thick stems that is really ugly. But don’t panic, your blooms will return in full bloom the following spring.

I have geraniums, when should I bring them inside?

Bring geraniums indoors before the first frost to overwinter them. Drag the entire pot indoors where they should stay for a few weeks while you take care of other more urgent garden tasks if you are growing them in a tub or container and have limited time (as it generally is in the fall). If they were grown in beds, simply remove them with a little dirt, place them in a pot, and water them sparingly. They will survive for a few weeks until you can deal with them.

Are geraniums winter-hardy in the UK?

Dr. Hessayon has provided practical gardening guidance to millions of gardeners, and his most recent book is jam-packed with fascinating horticultural trivia. This excerpt explains how you can reduce the price of your summer displays the following year.

Geraniums continue to be an essential component of our summer bedding designs. Everywhere you look, you see the striking umbels of red, pink, and white blooms, but any botanist will tell you that the bedding ‘geranium’ is actually the zonal pelargonium, not a geranium at all. Look attentively at the leaves; almost all kinds have a characteristic horseshoe zone or marking.

Geraniums don’t do well in the English winter, so bring them inside to prepare for the next year.

Although less common, the ivy-leaved pelargoniums, which droop over window boxes and hanging baskets, are just as helpful. The perennial shrubby geranium displays that cover hillsides and even balconies in more favored climates will sadly not survive the typical British winter for us.

Bedding geraniums shouldn’t be thrown away at the end of the summer just because they are frost-sensitive; they are far too expensive for that. Dig out the plants and shake off the soil around the roots before the first frosts come. They should be placed in pots that are just large enough to accommodate the roots and filled with seed and cutting compost.

Half the stems’ height should be maintained, and dead flower heads and yellowing leaves should be removed. Place the pots in a cool greenhouse or an unheated spare room. After spending the entire summer outdoors, the plants will be worn down and shouldn’t be handled like indoor plants that need to be encouraged to bloom. On no account should they be kept warm; they need to relax. Don’t feed them, and only water when it’s absolutely necessary to prevent the leaves from wilting.

When spring arrives, place the pots in a bright area and up the watering, but avoid forcing them into active development with feeding and excessive watering. Transplant the geraniums outside as soon as there is no threat of frost so they can develop once again and offer a summer-long display.

By following this protocol, you’ll be able to overwinter your bedding pelargoniums and avoid having to pay for new ones in May or June. This process has several iterations depending on the facilities you have access to. In September, if you have a greenhouse, you can take cuttings from your outdoor plants to dramatically increase the number of plants you have and have a greater show the next season.

However, if you don’t have a greenhouse or a spare room for geranium pots, you might try hanging the old plants throughout the winter in the garage. Before the first frosts, dig up the plants and shake all the soil from the roots. A small group of the plants can be tied together and hung upside down from the garage’s roof. Give them a little dusting of fungicidal powder, such as sulfur, and wait until the spring. Before potting or planting outdoors, soak the roots.

  • Adapted from The Bedside Book of the Garden by Dr. D. G. Hessayon, published in 2008 by Expert Books for $12.99. Call 0845 155 0720 to place a copy order (p&p are free).