You might think that hydrangeas are a bee attraction given their huge blossoms, but that isn’t necessarily the case. While certain varieties of hydrangeas draw bees, others do not. Flowers on mophead hydrangeas are sterile and lack nectar that would draw pollinators. Lacecap hydrangeas do, however, produce fruitful blossoms that draw bees. Pollinators like bees are also drawn to Climbing Hydrangeas, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, and Smooth Hydrangeas.
Mophead hydrangeas are the best choice if you want to keep bees away. On the other hand, if you want to make a space that attracts pollinators, consider growing Lacecap, Climbing, Oakleaf, or Smooth hydrangeas. The Lacecap and Oakleaf Hydrangeas appear to draw the greatest number of bees and other pollinators among these types.
You might ask why hydrangeas don’t draw in more pollinators given their opulent blossoms. Don’t pollinators want big, vibrant flowers, like bees do? It turns out that the nectar and pollen that the pollinators are truly pursuing are not present in every Hydrangea bloom. Most of the spectacular flower clusters that Hydrangeas are valued for are sterile. The cluster’s only viable flowers, which have nectar and pollen, are located inside.
The “petals on Hydrangeas are technically sepals, not blooms,” as the saying goes. Normally, these sepals would be green in plants. However, the outer part of hydrangeas mimics the shape that we usually refer to as a flower.
In the natural, hydrangeas produce more little, fruitful blossoms rather than large, spectacular flowers. The proportion of fertile to sterile flowers has changed as Hydrangeas have been bred by growers to produce larger blooms.
Because they don’t create a lot of pollen, hydrangeas are a suitable choice for allergy sufferers. Since there is no need to worry about pollen allergies, Hydrangeas are excellent for cutting and bringing indoors.
Which hydrangea varieties don’t draw bees?
I’m aware that some lace caps feed the bees, but not all specimens do, as some have flatter heads than the “mop heads” kind.
However, on the Lacecap Hydrangea macrophylla Blue Wave in this image, I have observed several bees foraging. I intend to add more cultivars to this page in the future.
Which hydrangea varieties should you avoid?
Some hydrangeas are better left out of the garden if you are concerned that your planting decisions may benefit bees and other pollinators.
Since the flowers are infertile and provide no food to bees, French hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophyllahortensis) often do not help pollinating insects.
These are the types with ball-shaped blossom heads, a compact circular “mop-head,” and no discernible flower anthers.
According to my personal experience, the unskilled foragers at most land, take a rapid flight away, or rest without eating.
Though even some of the kinds with “looser flower heads” are not particularly helpful to pollinators, it is advisable to concentrate on those that are popular with bees.
Do hydrangeas entice wasps or bees?
The nectar and pollen-rich flowers of hydrangeas draw a variety of bee, fly, and wasp species as well as other flying pollinators. They don’t draw houseflies, hornets, yellowjackets, or the majority of predatory wasps because these insects are generally carnivores that eat carrion or trash and rarely consume nectar or pollen.
One of the main reasons that flowering plants exist and why most flowers are as beautiful as they are is because they attract pollinators. The color, form, and shape of a flower are created by nature to draw the type of animal she wants to help with fertilization. If you don’t want the pollinators, you must get rid of the plants, or at the very least, the flowers, or move them to an area where they won’t bother you.
Are there many bees around hydrangeas?
I recently got the chance to assess a university campus for bee-friendly landscape plants. Large trees and sprawling lawns made up the majority of the campus, creating a plush and welcoming blanket of greenery that encircled tall buildings and trees like draped velvet. I’m delighted to report that it provided a quiet retreat for students and many families using or passing through the campus with young children.
The campus had so many trees that they formed an almost closed canopy, giving the impression that the trees had given permission for structures to be placed amid them for our benefit.
On the university grounds, a variety of trees including oaks, American elms, ash, mimosas, catalpas, mulberries, willows, golden chain trees, lindens, flowering crab apples, hawthorns, cedar, fir, pine, horse chestnuts, honey locusts, and eastern redbuds flourished in harmony and profusion. Many of the huge shrubs and trees were pollinator-friendly.
Willows were the first bee-friendly trees to blossom in the spring, and they were soon followed by hawthorn, horse chestnut, red buds (both eastern and western), and flowering crab apples.
Up to the end of July, golden chain tree, honey locust, linden, catalpa, mimosa, and linden all produced continuous tree bloom.
As long as there are other pollinator-friendly plants blooming before and after them, each tree holds a significant amount of floral resources during bloom time and is beneficial to pollinators; bees require sustained floral resources during the growing season.
Conifers, ash, elm, and other wind-pollinated trees are generally unwelcoming to bees.
On campus, hydrangeas were widely planted, so it was fascinating to see which ones were good for pollinators and which weren’t. Although we don’t typically think of plants as being friendly to bees, some are actually quite alluring to bees while others are not.
There was a fairly lengthy planting of lacecap hydrangeas on the east side of a sizable structure. The more popular mop-head hydrangea macrophylla hortensis is unsuitable for bees since its flowers are all sterile and, while attractive to humans, provide neither pollen nor nectar for bees.
Although hydrangeas’ fruitful blossoms are little, unimportant, and not particularly eye-catching, bees are very drawn to them. A large core cluster of fertile flowers is surrounded by stunning sterile flowers on lacecap hydrangeas.
They combine grace and delicacy with flowers that are friendly to pollinators, giving you the best of both worlds. These beautiful flowers are available in a variety of hues, including white, blue, and purple.
Hydrangea aspera, sometimes known as rough-leaf hydrangea, is a too rarely planted lacecap variety. Zone 9 locations with maritime influences, enough water, and annual composting are best suited for its use. This lovely big shrub, which grows to a height of 8 feet and flowers in the late summer, needs filtered shade.
A ring of light purple sterile blooms surrounds the bright purple, extremely fragrant fertile flowers. Both we and the bees adore its blossoms.
The appeal of the various hydrangea paniculata varieties to bees varies. The elongated, white flower heads typically contain a mixture of viable and sterile blooms.
Some varieties have non-scented, primarily sterile flowers whereas others have highly fragrant, bee-friendly blossoms. All are garish.
It is better to visit a nursery and distinguish between plants with a lot of bees visiting them and others that are not aromatic. The plants can range in size from three feet to roughly six or eight feet. Numerous cultivars exist.
Native to the eastern United States, hydrangea arborescens is frequently planted along the coast or in regions that receive a lot of coastal impact. ‘Annabelle’ is a popular cultivar.
It features very enormous umbels of white flowers that resemble mopheads, but each blossom is somewhat smaller than the mophead varieties, giving the flowering plant a softer and more elegant appearance.
The leaves are a brighter shade of green, much smaller, and less waxy. Large flower heads and weak stems can cause flowers to occasionally topple down.
While cultivars like “Haas Halo” have lacecap blooms made up of both fertile and sterile flowers and are exceedingly spectacular and bee-friendly, this cultivar only has sterile flowers. H. arborescens has exclusively viable blooms in its wild form. The scent of hydrangeas can help determine whether they are bee-friendly.
Which hydrangeas provide food for bees?
The following hydrangeas all provide food for bees, but I’ve highlighted the hydrangeas that do so the most frequently (and, yes, other pollinators).
If you’ve ever seen a climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris) in its full beauty, you know how stunning it is. But beware—this one climbs and has aerial roots that cling to cement-like surfaces. A terrible choice for your home, but excellent for a dead tree or an old shed.
Despite the warning, this is a stunning plant with white blooms and dark green leaves. Although it can be pruned, it reaches 30 to 40 inches high or tall. The crowns of lacy white flowers are 8 to 10 broad. The flowers bloom from June through July and provide pollinators with both nectar and pollen. You get the impression that the garden has been there for a very long time when you see a mature Climbing Hydrangea. Zones 4-8.
Hydrangea Lacecap (Hydrangea mycrophylla)
Fertile flowers with flat crowns are surrounded by spectacular sterile blossoms. A lovely and sophisticated option for the garden. As the bloom ages, the color of the flowers can vary from blue to white to pink. The color of the flowers is influenced by the pH of the soil: blue in extremely acidic soils (pH < 5.5) and pink to purple pink in alkaline soils (pH above 7.0). To make the blossoms bluer or pinker, apply lime or aluminum sulfate, respectively. Grow either in full sun or some shade. Look for more hardy types if you live somewhere with a chilly climate. Zones 6-9.
Hydrangea with oak leaves (Hydrangea quercifolia) a wonderful supply of nectar and pollen. I adore oak-leaved hydrangeas because of their imposingly sized leaves. The borders do have an oak leaf appearance. Even when not in bloom, this hydrangea will stand out among other bushes because to its leaves. The white, rectangular flowers are 10–12 inches long, and the bushes can grow to a height of 5–10 feet. In the fall, the leaves become a stunning deep red. Both “cultivated areas” and more natural woodland settings should give this plant some thought. Grow in full sun or partial light, well-drained, acidic soils. Zones 5-9.
Hydrangea paniculata “Grandiflora” (PeeGee Hydrangea) The plant’s ability to feed bees has received conflicting reviews. I would probably select a different hydrangea if you are serious about providing a food source for bees and other pollinators. PeeGee has a lot of flowers that are sterile. Mid-summer brings forth white blossoms that mature into dusty roses. can grow in the majority of soil types. reaches a height and width of around 20 feet. zone 3 to zone 8.
* Hydrangea rough-leaf (Hydrangeaaspera) In contrast to other hydrangeas, Hydrangea aspera has almost all viable blossoms. They are aromatic and the bees adore them. Rich, evenly moist, well-drained soils in partial shade are best for growing plants. Only when cultivated on consistently moist soils will it tolerate full sun. This shrub’s blossom color is typically influenced by the pH of the soil. How to alter the color is described in the Lacecap explanation. Zones 6-9.
If you have the space, I highly recommend the “Tardiva” hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata).
The flowers on Tardiva are a mixture of fruitful and infertile blossoms. The bees, however, seem to adore mine. In August, white blooms bloom, eventually turning dusty pink. For a shrub, this hydrangea can grow to be about 20 feet tall. In the shrub border, it sparkles. Or do you have a privacy barrier that is largely made up of trees? A tall shrub, like “Tardiva,” will complement trees better than a shrub of a typical size and look more in proportion. “Tardiva” may grow in any type of soil, excluding moist ones. zone 3 to zone 8.
Last but not least is the Wild or Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). This is a native hydrangea with white flowers that attract pollinators and feed bees. from early to late summer, blooms. 3 to 5 feet in height. Great in groups or in masses. Dole out wet, organically rich, and well-drained soil. It can function in either full sun or shade. 3 to 9 zones.
How can hydrangeas be protected from bees?
May is here! Sunlight is present! Bees are humming loudly. However, might you not perhaps prefer the bees to buzz a little farther away from you? Here are some all-natural strategies for repelling bees.
We are spending more and more time outside as the weather warms up. We might be organizing a fun outdoor dinner party or spending time in our garden once more. Bees buzzing all around you, though, can completely destroy the pleasant air. This means it’s time to make plans for how to avoid harming the environment while enjoying time in the sun and keeping bees and other insects at bay.
Insecticides are often used by many individuals to get rid of bees, but it has been shown that this is not the greatest solution. Insecticides play a significant role in the fall of the bee population that has been occurring since 2006. It’s important to steer clear of measures that will eliminate bees because they are useful to humans for a variety of reasons. Fortunately, there are simple, natural ways to deter bees from your outdoor activities without harming the bees or the ecosystem in the long run.
Cucumber skin
Bees can be effectively kept out of certain, constrained regions by using cucumber peel. For instance, you might start opening your windows and doors to let the warm air inside. But if bees also decide to enter, you might want to think about placing pieces of cucumber peel on or near your window frames. This is effective in some garden areas as well.
Peppermint
Bees like to stay away from peppermint-scented regions and plants where they congregate. They will avoid the plants, and therefore your house, if you have peppermint plants outdoors or nearby. It is a win-win circumstance. When the plants are finished growing, you won’t have to deal with the buzzing in your brain and you’ll enjoy delicious peppermint for yourself!
Cinnamon
A fantastic approach to scare away bees from a location is to spread cinnamon there. It will have a long-lasting effect, but you must be sure you do it every day for at least a week.
pulverized garlic
You can create a fantastic bee repellent by chopping up garlic and soaking it in water for a few days. Place it around your plants or in areas where people congregate outside.
Vanilla concoction
Perhaps your skin is more attractive to bees than your house or yard. Bees love vanilla extract, so use it to keep them off your skin. Even in a region where bees are common, a tablespoon of vanilla extract diluted in water will keep them away from you (baby oil will also work if you don’t like vanilla).
infant powder
Finally, while organic baby powder is a helpful deterrent for bees, not all varieties of baby powder are really natural. Then just sprinkle it in any locations you think are essential. Bees must be eliminated!
Do butterflies and bees enjoy hydrangeas?
The aesthetic appeal of a garden is no longer sufficient. It must also be visually appealing. The local ecosystem’s food chains are more successfully maintained the more we accept insects. In particular, we help our own food supply when we care for pollinators.
Get rid of the pesticides first. Put your faith in nature to regulate pests. Then add the features that make gardens beautiful: a succession of nectar- and pollen-rich blooms from the last to the first frost, as well as plants that serve as hosts for caterpillars of moths and butterflies.
Most pollinators are not particularly choosy. Some pollinators, like honeybees, only work with one species at a time, which makes them effective pollinators of food crops. Others eat from the buffet’s entire selection. Even though many pollinator species are armed with stingers, when they’re out feeding in the garden, they’re friendly associates willing to cooperate with you and each other.
Spring is simple. Everything that grows is essentially fair game. Beekeepers highly respect dandelions as the first dependable food supply following a long winter. Make room for them in your grass. The same is true for clover, which was only recognized as a weed after being unintentionally targeted by weed killers.
All kinds of bees, wasps, moths, and butterflies are drawn to the following things:
- Ajuga (Ajuga and cvs., Zones 39)
- Catmint (Nepeta and cvs., Zones 38)
- Hyssop anise (Agastache foeniculum, Zones 411)
- Lavender (Lavandula and cvs., Zones 410)
- Mountain thyme (Pycnanthemum and cvs., Zones 48)
- Calamint (Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta, Zones 49)
- Plants of the Lamiaceae (mint family) are effective pollinator magnets.
These plants have tubular flower spires that bloom all summer, attracting hummingbirds and bumblebees alike:
- Honey balm (Monarda and cvs., Zones 49)
- Agastache, such as Mexican giant hyssop (Agastache and cvs., Zones 411) (Agastache mexicana, Zones 710)
- Salvia species, including blue anise sage (Salvia and cvs., Zones 511). (Salvia guaranitica, Zones 710).
There is a secret weapon that hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp. and cvs., Zones 49) use. They only provide pollen and nectar from considerably smaller viable florets, yet they attract pollinators with enormous, showy flowers. Some mophead cultivars, like “Nikko Blue,” are just for appearance. Because lacecaps (H. macrophylla normalis, Zones 59) feature a platform of pollen-rich fertile blooms surrounded by prettier sterile sepals, bees and butterflies will appreciate your choice. Also take into account local species like oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia, Zones 59) and smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens, Zones 39), both of which have attractive pompoms and panicles of fertile and infertile florets.
In the aster or composite family, fertility may also be given up for the extra-showy appearance of extra petals. Bees and butterflies can get nectar and pollen from the single-flowered purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 39), as well as cultivars like “Virgin” and “Green Envy.” Additionally, throughout the fall and winter, their seed heads draw goldfinches.
Include caterpillar host plants in your garden layout to make it truly hospitable to butterflies. The only plant that monarch caterpillars eat is milkweed (Asclepias spp. and cvs., Zones 39). Any garden arrangement is made brighter by the two-foot-tall, beautiful orange blossoms of the butterfly weed (A. tuberosa, Zones 49). While ‘Ice Ballet’ blooms white, Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata, Zones 39) is higher at 3 to 4 feet and bubblegum pink. Both species are hardy perennials that self-sow native to the area. For fritillary butterflies, the violet family (Viola spp. and cvs., Zones 39), the spice bush (Lindera benzoin, Zones 49), and native grasses provide additional hosts (for skipper butterflies).
Don’t simply believe me; entire books have been written about this (my favorite is Attracting Native Pollinators by the Xerces Society). Make your garden your teacher. Your garden will be more inviting to pollinators and hence more beautiful.
Author and gardener Kristin Green lives in Bristol, Rhode Island, and is the creator of Plantiful: Start Small, Grow Big with 150 Plants that Spread, Self-sow, and Overwinter.
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