Although pollination by bees is necessary for flowers, as we all taught in school, it doesn’t imply we want them swarming around in our backyards. Bees and wasps can quickly ruin time spent outside, whether you are allergic to them or not. Don’t let your fear of being stung prevent you from having fun this summer. When it comes to fending off bees and wasps, a few simple changes to your landscape can have a significant impact. A list of 10 plants that deter bees and wasps is provided below. Resuming your season-long enjoyment after adding some to your backyard landscaping.
Of course, if you notice any bees or wasps on your property, call your neighborhood Ehrlich Pest Control office to find out what you can do to get rid of them and stop them from coming back.
Cucumber
This well-liked vegetable not only enhances summer salads but also deters wasps and bees. The acidic cucumber peels’ harsh flavor turns off bees and wasps.
There are several ways you may make use of cucumbers in your yard. You may either scatter cucumber peels across the garden or grow cucumber plants that will produce fresh fruit for snacks and drinks. Cucumbers are tropical vegetables, so if you decide to grow them, you’ll need warm weather and lots of moisture.
Basil
Another wonderful plant for your garden that serves as both a culinary ingredient and a pest deterrent is basil. While bees and wasps may not mind the scent of basil in a hearty tomato sauce, we humans do not. Basil enjoys a place that receives 6 to 8 hours each day of direct sunlight since it needs heat to thrive efficiently. To prevent drowning the basil plants and/or inducing root rot, the soil must be well-drained even if it should be kept moist.
Geraniums
Because bees cannot perceive the color red, geraniums, especially red geraniums, can be useful in deterring bees. Although it may seem odd that a flower would deter bees, these blooms have a fragrance that the stinging insect does not particularly enjoy and contain little to no pollen. Geraniums can be brought indoors to overwinter during the colder months and prefer to receive 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Wormwood
Absinthe, a component in wormwood that is poisonous to insects, is present. Bees and wasps typically avoid it because of its strong aroma, which warns them of any potential threats. Direct sunlight and well-drained soil are required for wormwood. Wormwood should be planted with caution because it can obliterate nearby plants.
Mint
Although mint has a pleasant aroma in the human world, stinging insects do not appreciate it. Although they may withstand some shade, mint plants need to be carefully monitored. They may easily take over a garden due to their speedy growth.
Eucalyptus
This fragrant shrub is a favorite of koala bears, but not of bees and wasps. You can grow eucalyptus in a garden or in containers. It requires a huge bit of light in any case. The eucalyptus plant can withstand drought, so give it a little time to dry out in between waterings.
Marigolds
Like most of the other plants on our list, the vibrant marigold adds beauty to gardens and deters insects with its pungent scent. It does not necessarily deter honeybees that are looking for nectar, but it does not appeal to wasps. Particularly when planted in the ground, marigolds are incredibly hardy and require little maintenance. Try using red types of plants to deter bees, like you would with geraniums.
Citronella
Citronella is primarily recognized for its ability to repel mosquitoes, but wasps and bees can also find it repulsive due to its overpowering odor. Although it may be grown indoors or outdoors, it prefers at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, whether it’s by a window or in the sun. The soil around the citronella plant should continue to drain well.
Pennyroyal
Bees and wasps absolutely detest pennyroyal because of its mint-like fragrance. Pennyroyal is a fantastic option for pots because it is a very modest plant with a height of 6 to 12 inches. Although this plant is fairly simple to grow, it needs to be watered frequently to prevent drying out.
Pitcher Plants
Compared to the other plants on this list, these ones function rather differently. Pitcher plants aid in the control of bees and wasps rather than putting them off. Pitcher plants are predators that capture and consume insects for their own food. Insects are drawn into the flower, where a slick surface leads them to slip and perish in a watery pool.
Because it cannot take tap, bottled, or filtered water, this sort of flower can be challenging to care for because it only tolerates rainwater or distilled water. Because pitcher plants have evolved to get their minerals from the insects they catch rather than from the accumulation of minerals in that type of water, this can be harmful to them. Pitcher plants need full, direct sunlight as well.
When choosing flowers for your yard, try to stay away from blue, violet, and yellow-hued plants as much as you can because these are bees’ favorite colors. These colors will draw bees to flowers in particular. Additionally, trumpet-shaped flowers are a barrier since they naturally make it more challenging for bees to get the nectar.
Bees will geraniums draw them?
Other herb choices include basil, sage, and calendula. Brightly colored flowers like daisies, geraniums, roses, and poppies are particularly attractive to bees. Fruit trees are among their favorite trees!
Create a Bee Bath: You may also create a tiny bee bath for the bees to consume. Simply fill a shallow bowl or small container with rocks, twigs, or even flower petals to create a bee bath (for them to land on.) Put this in your garden, and be sure to regularly empty the water out for them.
What draw things to geraniums?
- As soon as seedlings appear, give them lots of light on a sunny windowsill or grow them 3–4 inches beneath 16–hour-per-day fluorescent plant lights that are off for eight hours at night. As the plants get taller, turn up the lights. Because they will become too hot, incandescent bulbs will not function in this process. Do not leave lights on continuously for 24 hours; most plants need a time of darkness to flourish.
- Seedlings don’t require a lot of fertilizer; feed them when they are 3–4 weeks old with a starter solution (half the strength of an indoor plant food), as directed by the manufacturer.
- After the first frost, transplant hardened-off seedlings into the garden.
- Seedling plants must be “hardened off” before being planted in the garden. By relocating young plants to a protected area outside for a week, you can acclimate them to outside circumstances. At first, be sure to shield them from the wind and the light. If frost is expected at night, cover or bring pots inside; then, in the morning, reintroduce them to the outdoors. The plant’s cell structure is toughened during the hardening off process, which also lessens transplant shock and scorching.
Gardening: Planting
- Choose a place with good, rich, moist, well-drained organic soil and full sun.
- Turn the soil under to a depth of 8 inches to prepare the bed. To get rid of grass and stone clumps, level the area using a rake.
- The majority of plants do well in soils that have had organic matter added. Compost is a beautiful organic material that can be applied to your planting area whenever you like. It has the perfect pH level and nutrient balance. If compost is not available, topdress the soil with 1-2 inches of organic mulch after planting; this mulch will break down into compost over time. Following the growth season, a soil test will reveal what soil amendments are required.
- In the garden, plants should be spaced 12 inches apart.
- positioned level with the dirt around it. Up to the top of the root ball, cover with soil. Your hand should firmly push the earth down, leaving a small depression to hold water around the plant.
- Water deeply until a puddle appears in the saucer you have made. As a result, there is strong root-to-soil contact and the plants become established.
- Use the plant tag to indicate its location.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control while the plants are growing. Weeds compete with plants for water, space, and nutrients, therefore keep them in check by frequently cultivating or by using a mulch to stop the germination of their seeds.
- Mulches also support stable soil temperatures and moisture retention. Shredded leaves used as an organic mulch for annual plants give the bed a more natural appearance and, as they decompose over time, enrich the soil. Mulches should never be placed on a plant’s stems to avoid potential decay.
- During the growing season, make sure plants are well-watered, especially during dry spells. During the growing season, plants need roughly one inch of rain every week. To determine whether you need to add water, use a rain gauge. The optimum irrigation method is a drip or trickling system that releases water at low pressure directly into the soil. To reduce disease issues, water early in the day if you want to use overhead sprinklers so the foliage has time to dry before dusk. Maintain a moist but not saturated soil.
- Some protection from strong winds and intense sunlight may be required until plants grow established. Additionally essential is good airflow.
- A mild fertilizer can be administered after new growth starts to show. To prevent burn damage, keep granular fertilizers away from the plant’s top and leaves. Use moderate amounts of a slow-release fertilizer because greater amounts could promote root rots.
- Flowers should be deadheaded to extend blooming.
- Observe for illnesses and pests. For advice on pest management measures that are suitable for your area, contact your cooperative extension service.
- In order to prevent disease problems the next year, remove plants that have been killed by frost in the fall. Additionally, geraniums can be brought inside and grown as houseplants through the winter.
Growing Tips
- For beds, borders, pathways, and pots, geraniums are ideal. Geraniums with ivy-leafed cascade, making them perfect for window boxes and hanging baskets.
- In a sunny area, geraniums can be grown indoors as houseplants during the winter. They might eventually get woody, and the blossoms might get smaller. To create new plants, take stem cuttings.
Common Disease Problems
Alternaria Leaf Spot: On the upper surface of the leaves, small, rounded reddish brown dots with white to gray centers appear. The lesions could surround the stems and result in wilt. Warm, rainy, or extremely humid conditions makes this sickness worse. Burpee Avoid spraying water on the foliage, it is advised. Avoid working with moist plants and remove any contaminated plant components. Make sure there is lots of air movement. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
Botrytis: This fungus turns flowers, leaves, stalks, and buds a greyish color. It thrives in chilly, rainy weather. Burpee advises removing the damaged plant sections, avoiding watering at night, and not watering directly on the plant. Make sure plants receive adequate airflow. For advice on fungicides, get in touch with local cooperative extension service.
One of the most frequent issues when beginning plants from seed is damping off. The seedling appears healthy when it first emerges, but then it mysteriously begins to droop and die. A fungus that causes damping off is active when there is a lot of moisture present when the soil, air, and temperature are above 68 degrees F. This typically means that the soil is either too moist or heavily fertilized with nitrogen. Burpee advises keeping seedlings moist but not overwatering them, avoiding overfertilizing them, thinnng out seedlings to prevent overcrowding, ensuring the plants have good air circulation, and if you are planting in containers, washing them thoroughly in soapy water and rinsing them in a 10% bleach solution after use.
Fasciation is the unnatural flattening of stems, which can give them the impression of being joined. Often, distortion starts to appear in the plant’s base. It usually enters the plant through a wound and is brought on by a virus or bacteria. Burpee advises being extremely cautious when handling plants. Any plants that exhibit disease symptoms should be removed and destroyed.
Root Rots: Both mature roots and seedlings can develop root rots, which are caused by several pathogens. Burpee advises using crop rotation and avoiding planting in the same spot for an extended period of time. Grasp and throw away infested plants. Ensure that your soil drains well. For advice, get in touch with your local Cooperative Extension Service.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: These disease-transmitting sucking insects that feed on the undersides of leaves might be green, red, black, or peach in appearance. On the foliage, they deposit a sticky substance that draws ants. Burpee advises attracting or introducing aphid-eating predators like lady beetles and wasps into your garden. You can also use an insecticidal soap or a powerful spray to wash them away.
Cyclamen mite: By suckling juice from leaves and stems, these mites harm plants. They proliferate quickly in hot, dry conditions. They are only seen with the aid of a magnifying glass. Plants may not blossom and will appear stunted and deformed. Flowers will have streaks, blotches, and distortions. The leaves may cup, curve, get smaller and thicker. Burpee’s Advice Infested plants should be thrown away. Don’t work with plants that are infected. In dry conditions, keep plants well-watered. For advice on insecticides for severe infestations, contact local cooperative extension service.
Mealybugs: Mealybugs are flat, wingless insects that range in length from 1/8 to 1/4 inch. They excrete a white powder that hardens into a protective waxy shell. They accumulate in masses that resemble cotton on stems, branches, and leaves. They hinder growth by sucking up liquids from stems and leaves. Additionally, the honeydew they exude, which can potentially develop a black sooty mold, attracts ants. Burpee advises washing the damaged plant parts and making an effort to rub the insects off. Predator insects including lacewings, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps can also control them. For advice on which pesticides to use, contact your cooperative extension service.
Spider mites: These minuscule insects, which resemble spiders, are approximately the size of a peppercorn. They can be yellow, brown, black, red, or black. They ingest plant liquids, sucking out chlorophyll and injecting poisons that leave the foliage with white spots. On the plant, webbing is frequently seen. They cause the leaf to stipple, dry, and become yellow. They proliferate swiftly and do best in dry environments. Burpee’s Advice Every other day, a strong spray can help control spider mites. Try using insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. For advice on miticides, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service.
Thrips: Thrips are little, straw- or black-colored, needle-like insects. They attack flower petals, leaves, and stems while sucking plant liquids. The leaf surface of the plant will show stippling, discolored flecking, or silvering. Numerous illnesses can be transported from plant to plant by thrips. Burpee advises placing sheets of aluminum foil between plant rows to deter many thrips. After the first frost, remove all weeds from the bed and any debris. For information on pest control, contact your cooperative extension service.
FAQ
Tell me why my geraniums aren’t blooming, please. Geraniums need direct sunlight to blossom and do not do well in the shadow. Fertilizer should be used often to geraniums for best results. All season long, be careful to pick up any wasted flowers.
Why do some geraniums go by the name “zonal”? During cooler months, the leaves of zonal geraniums typically have a red ring around them. The majority of zonal geraniums are only sold as plants and are reproduced from cuttings.
What distinguishes “Pelargoniums” from annual geraniums? Pelargoniums and annual geraniums are the same species of plant. The scientific name is Pelargonium. Annual geraniums should not be confused with hardy or perennial geraniums. In frigid climates, annual geraniums, which are produced as annuals, often only survive one season outside. Hardy geraniums are perennial and belong to a distinct genus called Geranium.
Which pollinators will my garden’s annual geraniums draw? Hummingbirds and butterflies are drawn to geraniums.
Why are my geranium’s lowest leaves turning yellow? From either insufficient or excessive irrigation, lower leaves may become brown. Ensure that the ground is damp but not soggy. Yellowing of the leaves might also result from water sitting on them. Try to moisten only the soil. For annual geraniums to keep their big, wholesome, green leaves, fertilizer needs to be applied frequently.