Grocery store or “florist hydrangeas” can be seamlessly incorporated into the landscape in the appropriate environment and under the appropriate circumstances. Yes, they will bloom again as long as all the elements that affect hydrangea flowering are properly addressed, such as winter and late spring cold, improper trimming techniques, etc.
They do need a transition period to help them progressively adjust from indoor to outdoor circumstances, and failing to recognize that could affect how effectively they perform. It could explain why yours appeared to decline after being planted outside.
Sometimes it takes several seasons for the plant’s internal clock to reset itself so that it blooms when it should. And those other conditions that can hinder or prevent flowering that were previously discussed must be kept in mind. They may, however, effectively adapt to the external environment and thrive there. and endure for a long time.
Can hydrangeas in pots be planted?
If you’ve ever received a hydrangea in a foil-wrapped pot, you likely loved it for a few of weeks before seeing it sadly wilt. You might conclude from it that hydrangeas are poor container plants.
Most hydrangeas that are given in pots as gifts do poorly because they are kept indoors for too long. Others perish because they were grown in a greenhouse and are not cold hardy in your region of the country, even if they are planted outside.
However, hydrangeas can make wonderful potted plants if you choose wisely. What you should know is as follows.
Potted Hydrangea
You can utilize hydrangeas in containers in your garden on stands, decks, or patios. This plant looks classy perched atop an antique column.
- Choose a location for the hydrangeas first. You may move them around, which is one of the benefits of growing them in pots. This also makes it simpler to provide hydrangeas with the ideal growing circumstances because many of them like morning sun and afternoon shade. Additionally, you can arrange them to beautify a patio or other area for a celebration or special event.
- If your pots won’t stay in the same spot all the time, search for containers with wheels on the bottom or think about durable, rolling plant stands. Don’t forget that after adding dirt and plants, containers can become rather heavy, and soaking them can make them even heavier.
- For your hydrangea, pick a large container with a diameter of at least 18 to 20 inches. The plant commonly wilts in small pots like the one your gift hydrangea arrived in since they typically dry out too quickly. Drill drainage holes into the bottom of your container if there aren’t any already. Rotting can result from water that accumulates around the roots.
- Next, pick a variety that is advised for your area. (This is a general guideline for growing any plant well.) To choose the best types for your yard, read plant tags or conduct online study. Some hydrangea varieties can grow in USDA zones 3 and 9, while the majority are hardy in zones 4 to 8.
- Although using miniature hydrangeas in pots isn’t required, you might wish to if you have a small yard. Not only do hydrangeas grow tall, but they also become bushy. If not, prepare to prune your plants as they develop. Be careful when conducting your research; see if your variety blooms on new or old wood. You’ll lose the flowers for the following year if you prune at the incorrect time of year.
- Use high-quality potting soil that contains organic materials rather than regular garden soil. If you want the hydrangea to continue growing, don’t plant it higher or deeper than it was in the pot it came in. Make sure there is space below the pot’s rim so you can water.
- To get rid of air pockets, gently compact the dirt close to the roots.
- Water your hydrangea well whenever the top inch or so of the potting soil feels dry. But being underwater is preferable to being overwatered. When they are thirsty, hydrangeas may wilt to let you know. However, this can stress them out, so check them every other day or so. You’ll eventually get a sense for how frequently to water. In times of drought or extreme heat, you might need to increase your watering.
- Although hydrangeas don’t require a lot of fertilizer, you can feed your plants once or twice a year with a commercially available composted manure, a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, or a slow-release balanced fertilizer. If you reside in a warm environment, wait until after July or August to fertilize. Gardeners in the north can get away with applying fertilizer just once, in June or July. Feeding hydrangeas later, when they should be starting to go dormant for the winter, promotes fragile, fresh growth.
- If your plant already appears to be ill or unhealthy, don’t fertilize it—you’ll just increase its stress. Try to solve the issue instead.
Examine the blooms for signs of damage.
Look for hydrangeas at the store that have vibrant, robust green leaves and bouncy blossoms. Check the petals for any brown spots, which would signify sun damage, advises BloomThat’s production director Callie Bladow. “Additionally, because cut flowers are stored cold, keep an eye out for black petals that could mean the blooms have been in contact with a refrigerator’s side. A flowering hydrangea should feel solid, not flimsy or spongy.” A healthy bouquet should last up to two weeks if you select one.
Cut garden-grown flowers with a sharp floral knife.
If you’re fortunate enough to have garden hydrangeas, you may easily bring them inside for a lovely arrangement. While working outside, cut them on the bias (a 45-degree angle) using a sharp flower knife or clean kitchen shears, then put them in a dish of lukewarm water. The optimal time of day to trim hydrangea blossoms, according to Bladow, is early in the day. “Leave the others to continue blooming and just select the most fully developed and mature blooms. Hydrangeas with full flowers will appear more “papery” than those with young buds.”
Prep them with alum powder.
The sap that hydrangeas create at the base of their stems needs to be sealed off in order for them to absorb water. After making a bias cut in the stem, Bladow advises dipping it in alum powder, an onion powder that can be found in the spice section of your local supermarket. “All that’s needed is a quick dip of the stem’s bottom, followed immediately by the vase.” If you don’t have alum powder, you can get the same result by dipping the stem in boiling water for around 10 seconds. Additionally, cut the leaves off the stem because they will use up all the water in the vase.
Get creative arranging with different flowers.
You can choose to use a traditional arrangement of only hydrangeas or you can try blending in other flowers or utilizing unusual vases. Bladow explains, “I adore utilizing glass apothecary jars with larger bases and petite vase necks. “Another way we enjoy using hydrangeas in our designs is as grids for other flowers. Simply insert them into the flower head; the hydrangea’s multiple stems will hold other flowers in place.” Hydrangeas can be arranged with any kind of flowers. She suggests combining some foliage, such as lemon leaf or variegated pittosporum, with roses, dahlias, and freesia.
Change the water daily.
According to Bladow, hydrangeas prefer chilly water, which should be replaced every other day with a new snip of the stems. You can fill the vase with some plain cane sugar or flower food from your cupboard. Keep your arrangement away from harsh sunlight. Additionally, Bladow advises soaking the entire hydrangea for around 45 minutes in cool water if your flowers are acting downcast. Shake them off, trim the bottom of the stem, and then submerge them in flower food-infused water. Your hydrangeas’ lifespan could be extended and they might even come back to life.
How are hydrangeas grown from a florist?
Although the hydrangea’s leaves and flowers seem delicate, little careful care is actually needed for them. Everything you need to know about caring for hydrangeas is provided in these recommendations.
- Over the course of the growing season, water at a rate of 1 inch per week. To promote root growth, deeply water three times each week. All varieties of hydrangeas benefit from constant moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas need more water. To water thoroughly while keeping moisture off the flowers and leaves, use a soaker hose. Hydrangeas won’t wilt as much if they are watered early in the day on hot days.
- To keep the soil around your hydrangeas cool and moist, add mulch. Over time, an organic mulch decomposes, supplying nutrients and enhancing soil texture.
- Apply fertilizer according to the type of hydrangeas you have. Every variety has varied requirements and will profit from applying fertilizer at various times. A soil test is the most effective tool for determining your fertility requirements.
- In March, May, and June, bigleaf hydrangeas require numerous mild fertilizer applications.
- Two applications in April and June work best for oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas.
- The only time smooth hydrangea plants require fertilizing is in the late winter.
- By selecting cultivars with resistant characteristics, you can avoid pests and diseases. Hydrangeas can have leaf spots, bight, wilt, and powdery mildew. Although they are uncommon on hydrangeas, pests might arise when the plants are under stress. Aphids, leaf tiers, and red spider mites are examples of potential pests. Your best line of defense is to properly care for hydrangeas.
Can hydrangeas produced indoors be planted outdoors?
Mophead hydrangeas can be cultivated outside wherever the wintertime temperature stays above -15oC because they are hardy (5oF). However, as they were grown in greenhouses and given fertilizer to induce early flowering, potted hydrangeas sold as houseplants may require some time to acclimate to life outside before being put out. Place them outside in their pots during the day and bring them inside at night to harden them off for one to two weeks before to planting. Hydrangeas that have been grown for outdoor planting can be planted immediately. Mid- to late April, when the soil has had time to warm up, is the ideal time to plant mophead hydrangeas outdoors.
The optimal conditions for hydrangeas are shade from the sweltering afternoon sun and moist, well-drained soil. They are therefore excellent alternatives for shady gardens, and in mid- and late-summer, their dramatic spherical flowerheads are absolutely gorgeous. Regularly water hydrangeas, especially during dry spells, and in the spring or fall, mulch with compost or other organic material.
Because of the soil’s pH (acidity or alkalinity), pink and blue mophead hydrangea blossoms have the unusual ability to change color. The blossoms will be a deeper shade of blue the more acidic the environment is. Flowers turn a gorgeous pink on alkaline soil. The color of white mophead hydrangeas doesn’t alter.
Sanitize Your Pruners
By scrubbing the handle and blades of your pruners with rubbing alcohol after dipping a cotton ball in it, you can disinfect them. By taking this precaution, you can protect your new plant from fungal diseases.
Take Cuttings
Cut a green, healthy branch that has not yet developed flower buds on a mature hydrangea plant about 2 inches below a leaf node. Skip the older, woodier stems. Overall, the cutting should be 6 to 8 inches long.
Trim the Leaves
With your pruners, remove all except the top two to four leaves from the cutting, being careful not to harm the stem. Leave a space between the cut and the main stem while chopping the leaves. As a result, the main stem’s integrity is protected.
Dip Stem Into Rooting Powder
Put some rooting hormone powder on the cut end of the stem. Although adding rooting hormone is optional, most growers feel that success rates are increased by doing so.
Prepare a Pot
The quantity of hydrangea cuttings you are starting should be taken into consideration when selecting a pot. A few cuttings should fit in an 8–10 inch terra cotta pot.
A seed-starting potting mix should be added to your pot, and it should be fully moistened. Vermiculite or coarse sand are two more sterile growth mediums that can be used.
Plant the Cuttings
Insert each cutting all the way up to the base of the remaining leaves in the growing medium. Wrap the stems in the mixture, moistening it well.
The potted cuttings should be placed in a clear plastic bag that is just loosely fastened, and they should be placed in an area that receives bright indirect light but not direct sunshine, which might bake the cuttings and make them rot.
When the potting mix feels dry to the touch, add moisture by keeping an eye on it. The soil used for planting needs to be regularly moist but not saturated.
Repot as Needed
Your hydrangea cuttings will grow new roots in a month. You can carefully transplant individual cuttings into their own pots filled with regular potting soil once they do and new green growth starts so they can continue to develop into larger plants. Alternatively, now is the time to put fully established cuttings into the garden.
The young specimens can now start receiving weekly waterings and being treated like mature plants.
Transplant into the Garden
Follow recommended spacing recommendations when adding fresh hydrangeas to the garden by leaving a 4- to 6-foot space between each plant. The new hydrangeas will develop into flowering bushes the next growing season if they are planted in the fall.
Tip
Big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) can have their blossom color carefully controlled by altering the pH of the soil with the addition of various soil amendments. Pink blossoms typically grow on alkaline soils, while blue flowers typically grow on acidic soils.
How long do hydrangeas in pots last?
In U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 5 through 9, hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) gardens are adorned with enormous, vibrant blooms. These shrubs, which share their frothy blossoms for the most of the summer and may grow between 4 and 12 feet tall with proper care, can live for decades.
Hydrangeas are hardy shrubs that, with proper care, can survive for up to 50 years. They require frequent watering during the growing season and prefer early light but afternoon shade. After the blossoms have faded, prune them in the fall so that they will have sturdy stems for the summer after. The hydrangeas may lose their blooms for a year while the plants heal if they are pruned when they are in bloom.
Common hydrangeas, sometimes known as bigleaf hydrangeas, bloom in a variety of hues, including blue, pink, and purple. These hydrangeas typically start to bloom in May, which is sooner than some other kinds. Usually, the plants keep producing blooms until July. According to the characteristics of the soil, bigleaf hydrangeas are known to shift their bloom colors; a plant that blooms pink one year may bloom blue the following. Aluminum sulfate, which is added to the soil, promotes blue flowers, whereas hydrated lime, which is added to alkaline soils, promotes pink blossoms. Ayesha, Nikko Blue, and Preziosa are cultivars.
Longer blooming than other hydrangeas, the smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) frequently displays color from early June through September. The cultivars “Anabelle” in white and “Invincibelle Spirit” in pink are examples. Smooth hydrangeas often bloom on wood from the current year, which means you should severely prune them, in contrast to other hydrangeas that bloom best on ancient wood. Trim them to a height of 6 to 12 inches above ground.
The panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) blooms later in the year because it prefers the heat of summer to the mild weather of spring. Panicle hydrangeas often begin blooming in July and continue through September. Their blossoms are initially white, but as fall approaches, they start to turn rusty pink.
However, if you relocate the plants or transplant one from a pot to the ground, the hydrangeas may not bloom for a year or perhaps two. Hydrangeas can produce big flowers in their first year. This does not imply that their time of flowering is over. Once the roots of the plants have recovered from the shock of transplantation, they should begin to blossom. To this end, keep the plants well-watered and treat them with a balanced fertilizer throughout the spring, summer, and fall.
Shala Munroe has been writing and copy editing since 1995 from her home outside of Atlanta, Georgia. She began her career in journalism at publications like the Marietta Daily Journal and the Atlanta Business Chronicle. She most recently had managerial and communications positions for a number of charity organizations before opening a flower business in 2006. She graduated from Jacksonville State University with a BA in communications.