How well-adapted are tree peony to San Francisco? I recently bought a tree peony and put it in my section of the Craggs Court Community Garden at a spot that gets morning sun and good drainage. This garden has frequent fog and is chilly and humid for the majority of the summer. In San Francisco, I can’t claim that I’ve seen many tree peony, so I’m worried that my new purchase won’t blossom or will succumb to summer molds and mildews. If moving it to a different area will be better for the small shrub, I can do that.
A: In San Francisco, a tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) is unquestionably worthwhile to try. I can’t say for sure whether yours will flourish in its specific location and avoid sickness, but I believe there is a strong probability that it will be alright.
Herbaceous peonies drop to the ground every winter, whereas tree peonies develop woody stems that last all year and progressively increase in height to around 4 feet. Both have big, double blooms with silky petals in white and a range of pink to red colors as well as lobed foliage. To the tree peony’s color palette, hybridization has added yellow, orange, and copper. Herbaceous and tree peonies have been crossed to create some of the newest peony hybrids, known as intersectional or Itoh peonies. They can flourish in climates like San Francisco’s and die to the ground like their herbaceous parent.
Your choice of place for your tree peony is a good one because it has some shade and adequate soil drainage. Very windy locations should be avoided because strong winds can harm the huge blossoms. Nitrogen levels in vegetable-fertilized soil may be too high. A fertilizer that has more phosphorus than nitrogen and is applied in April and May during the bloom season is preferable. Avoid soil that is acidic. To determine whether your soil is neutral or slightly basic, use a pH meter.
Avoid overhead watering and pick up fallen petals and leaves to prevent illness. During the winter, when the plants are dormant, clean them up and remove any dead wood.
The majority of tree peonies sold on the market have been grafted, frequently onto herbaceous peony roots but occasionally onto other tree peony roots. To encourage the grafted top half to grow its own roots, locate the graft union (a widening or jog in the stem) and bury it 4 to 5 inches deep before planting. Additionally, trim off any new branches that have appeared below the area where the top has been grafted onto the roots since they will have different and likely inferior flowers.
A slope with clay soil might benefit from your recommendations for soil-holding groundcover and/or plants. It’s in Pacifica’s Linda Mar neighborhood. The microclimate is decent; it’s not as chilly and gloomy as other Pacifica regions. The vegetation on the hillside has now grown to obstruct the air and light. It’s feared that inclement weather would make the trees fall onto the condos. In actuality, they have in the past.
It’s important to have groundcover that can withstand droughts, doesn’t obstruct light and air, and supports slope stability. We will be grateful for any kind advice you may provide.
A: It seems like the perfect location to grow some native Californian flora. I enquired about what he believed would work best for this place from Glenn Keator, a freelance writer and teacher in the Bay Area who specializes in California natives. Glenn’s most recent book, “Creating California Native Gardens,” was co-authored with Alrie Middlebrook (UC Press, 2007).
Can you grow peony in Northern California?
- MesoWest Surface Weather Maps This map can be used to locate the ID of the weather station closest to you.
- Get relaxed
- I enter my weather station ID here to have the area’s chill hours calculated automatically.
But how do cool hours affect the development of peonies? Lean in closer because I’m about to reveal the key to peonies that blossom successfully: They won’t bloom if the temps aren’t frigid. They are primarily referred to as northern plants because of this.
There are different chilling hours needed for each type of peony to assure flowering. For the bulk of them to blossom well, 500–1000 cooling hours are needed. Your garden’s wait for peony cultivars that will never bloom will be so much easier if you are aware of the cool hours in your neighborhood.
For instance, there are typically 100 cold hours in my neighborhood. To discover peonies that bloom beautifully in spring and don’t require a lot of chilling hours, I must do the following. So the early blooming cultivars like Festiva Maxima, Early Scout, and Monsieur Jules Elie are my top choices.
Some peony catalogs include information on the peonies’ necessary chilling times. Others might not In this instance, I calculate the necessary chill hours using the system shown below:
- Low chilling period required = less than 500 chill hours. Therefore, varieties that bloom early are your best bet.
- A medium chilling duration of 500–700 chill hours is necessary. Therefore, cultivars that bloom early to mid-season are the better options.
- A high chilling period is required if the chilling hours exceed 700. Therefore, varieties with late-season blooms will thrive in these circumstances.
Keep in mind that this is a fairly streamlined method of calculating cold hours. By all means, take advantage of the opportunity to get more specific information about your favorite peony variety. It’s also important to keep in mind that the weather might occasionally be so unpredictable that it can ruin your planting season preparations. So don’t panic if, despite satisfying all the requirements, your particular peony variety doesn’t thrive in your region.
Fortunately, Northern California is a great place for peony. Here are a few illustrations you could use:
- Coral Appeal a season’s early blooming.
- Early season bloomer: Coral n Gold.
- Late midseason blooming, Bartzella.
- Early mid-season blooming, Blaze
- Maxima Festiva
- An early to midseason bloomer.
- Late bloomer by midseason, Sarah Bernhardt.
- Mid-season bloomer: sea shell.
- Mid-season blooming, Julia Rose.
- Sally Ann O’Hara
- Seasonal early bloomer.
- Belle, Barrington
- Seasonal early bloomer.
- Belle of Buckeye
- a season’s early blooming.
Can you cultivate peonies in California?
Peonies are a traditional spring bloom that have long lined wedding aisles, so we definitely don’t need to tell you how enthusiastic you should be about them. A peony bouquet is a great option for fresh flowers, giving a spring flare to any space, even if you don’t need to arrange a wedding. Who isn’t searching for freshly cut peonies for sale when peony season rolls around?
But did you know that California is home to a unique variety of wild peony? Yes, the California peony, or paeonia californica, is a perennial that is indigenous to California. These stunning blooms bloom in California’s chaparrals, meadows, and ridges for the first part of each year.
Can peony thrive in warm weather?
Slideshow of 20 stunning peonies
What’s fresh: Herbaceous and tree peonies are crossed to create itoh hybrids, also known as intersectional hybrids. They can reach a height of 3 1/2 feet, produce flowers in lavender, pink, copper, yellow, or cream, and bloom for a longer period of time than typical herbaceous varieties.
Since their stems are more thicker and more sturdy than those of herbaceous species, they are effective in supporting large cups of petals.
Where to grow: Peonies do best in cooler regions (Sunset zones 111; A1A3), where the winters are particularly chilly. However, some will thrive in warmer environments (see list below). Under zones 1420, all are worthwhile attempts in dappled shade. There, give the plants plenty of water and midday shade.
When to plant: In late April in warmer climates, plant container-grown plants; in May or June in colder climates. In 5-gallon containers, 3-year-old peony should blossom more.
Spring or fall, from containers used for nurseries: Place the plant in the ground with the top of its rootball level with the dirt after loosening the soil and adding copious amounts of compost, being careful not to disturb the plant’s delicate feeder roots. Or move it into a sizable (18 to 24-inch diameter) container that is deeper on the outside than the inside.
Plant herbaceous peony roots with eyes 2 inches deep in cold climates and 1 inch deep in warmer climates in the fall. In cold climates, itoh hybrids should be planted 3 inches deep; in warmer climates, 2 inches deep.
How to feed and water: Water frequently. When the first leaves emerge in the spring, fertilize with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (such 5-10-10) and then once more when the final flower has faded.
When to pick: Cut stems just as flower buds start to open to harvest blossoms for bouquets; leave at least three leaves on the plant to feed it for the following year. Blooms will keep for up to a week in vases. Although Itoh hybrids generate more flowers per stem as the plants become older, the majority of cultivars only produce one bloom per stem.
After flowering, prune down herbaceous and Itoh hybrid peonies in the fall; fresh growth will appear in the spring.
Grab a peony.
For cold climates, pick: There are three new Itoh hybrids—crosses between tree peony and herbaceous peonies—called “Bartzella,” “Pink Double Dandy,” and “Yellow Doodle Dandy.” Bartzella has unusually enormous, bright yellow blooms.
Four herbaceous favorites for cool or warm climates include “Blaze,” a vivid red single, “Festiva Maxima,” a white double with crimson flecks in the middle, “Sarah Bernhardt,” or “Sea Shell” (satiny pink single).
Shop: Purchase plants (itoh hybrids can cost up to $100 at nurseries, while ordinary herbaceous can cost $40), beginning in late April in warm climates and May in chilly ones. Plants that are three years old and are housed in five-gallon containers will reliably blossom.
Visit and purchase: The 200 or so varieties of herbaceous and tree peonies at Chateau CharMarron Peony Gardens (5335 Sierra Rd., San Jose; 408/251-7048) begin flowering in late March and last through June. Visit Adelman Peony Gardens next month (May 1–Jun 15; 5690 Brooklake Rd. N.E., Salem, OR; 503/393-6185) to see 300 varieties spread across 10 acres.
Where can peony be planted?
Now that you are aware of the distinctions between the two primary Peonies, let’s approach your choice based solely on the available information.
Location & Climate: If you reside in the extreme south or north, temperature and humidity may have a significant impact on your choice of peony.
Garden peonies will thrive if you are in a northern region with a shorter, cooler growing season. Garden Peonies are especially popular in Zones 3 through 8, where they may require a little more care.
- A tip for getting them to behave perfectly if you live in the deep south is to select an early-blooming type that will go into flower before the summer heat arrives.
- In the same way, a late-blooming Garden Peony is likely to succeed better in zone 3’s northernmost regions, where temperatures will have warmed up enough for it to flourish during their peak bloom period.
Available Sunlight: Unlike Itohs, which love dappled light and can even take part-sun, Garden Peonies require full sunlight. As a general rule, your garden will be exposed to more sun and humidity the further south you live. You should give your peony more room in hotter, brighter climates so they may receive more air circulation and perhaps a little less sun than usual.
Best places to grow peonies?
The peony has the fattest, most delicious petals and rich green foliage, making it outrageously attractive when it is in bloom. From spring to summer, savor stunning floral displays. Learn how to care for, grow, and plant peony.
About Peonies
Peonies are a perennial that will steal your breath away every year. The plants may even outlive you—some have been reported to survive for at least a century.
When Is Peony Season? When Do Peonies Bloom?
Depending on your location and the kind you are planting, peonies bloom from late spring to early summer.
You may extend the peony season across several weeks and take use of those magnificent blossoms for as long as possible thanks to the abundance of nurseries that provide early, midseason, and late blooming types.
Peonies may thrive as far south as Zones 7 and 8, and they are hardy to Zone 3. The key to success in the majority of the United States is to provide full light and well-drained soil. Peonies even enjoy the winter’s coldness because it helps their buds grow.
Types of Peony Flowers
You can pick from six different varieties of peony flowers: anemone, single, Japanese, semi-double, double, and bomb. The odors of different plants also differ; some, like “Festiva Maxima” and “Duchesse de Nemours,” have seductive rose-like aromas, while others have a lemony scent or none at all.
Where to Plant Peonies
When planted as a low hedge or along sidewalks, peonies make excellent sentinels. As majestic and dignified as any flowering shrub, the peony’s bushy cluster of attractive glossy green leaves lasts all summer before turning purplish-red or gold in the fall.
Peonies work nicely with irises and roses in mixed borders and blossom alongside columbines, baptisias, and veronicas. Plant pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets, then surround white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots.
Peonies are not overly picky, but you should pick your place carefully because they dislike disruption and do not transplant well.
Although they can survive in partial shade, peonies like full sun, and they flower at their best in an area that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day.
Because of its huge flowers, peonies can become top-heavy in severe winds. Therefore, provide shelter. (If necessary, stakes can be used to hold them up.) Planting too close to trees or bushes will cause peony to compete with them for nutrients, sunlight, and moisture.
Grow peony in rich, wet, humus-rich soil that is deep, fertile, and well-draining. pH in the soil should be neutral.
When to Plant Peonies
As long as they are planted correctly and become established, peony plants require minimal upkeep. However, keep in mind that they do not adapt well to transplanting, so you should consider this when choosing your planting location.
- Plant peony in the fall: in the majority of the United States, in late September or early October, and even later in the fall in Zones 7 and 8. Your planting zone can be found here.
- If you need to move an established plant, the fall is the ideal season because the plant will be dormant.
- About six weeks before the ground freezes, peonies should be planted.
- While planting peonies in the spring is absolutely a possibility, the results aren’t always favorable. They often trail behind plants planted in the fall by roughly a year, according to experts.
How to Plant Peonies
- Peonies are typically offered as divisions of a 3- or 4-year-old plant, bare-root tubers with 3 to 5 eyes (buds).
- Peonies should be placed 3 to 4 feet apart to allow for enough air circulation. The development of disease can be facilitated by stagnant, damp air.
- In a sunny area, dig a generously sized hole that is about 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. The inclusion of organic matter in the planting hole will improve the soil. Add additional compost to the soil to improve it if it’s sandy or heavy. Add about a cup of bonemeal to the ground. Find out more about soil improvements and getting the soil ready for planting.
- The roots should be positioned in the hole just 2 inches below the soil’s surface, with the root’s eyes facing upward on top of a mound of soil. Avoid planting too deeply! Choose early-blooming species, put them approximately 1 inch deep, and provide some shade in southern states.
- Backfill the hole after that, being careful to prevent soil settlement and a 2-inch root burying. Gently tamp the ground.
- Plant a container-grown peony no deeper than it was when it was in the pot.
- When planting, give everything plenty of water.
How to Care for Peonies
Young peony take time to develop, just like children. In order to establish themselves, blossom, and flourish, they typically require a few years. They eventually leave home on their own, fully grown and adjusted… No, that’s just kids, I suppose.
Peonies benefit from gentle neglect. They don’t require digging and dividing every few years like the majority of perennials do.
- Don’t use any fertilizer. Before planting, till the soil thoroughly while adding compost and a small amount of fertilizer.
- Early summer, after the peonies have flowered and you have deadheaded the blooms, is the ideal time to apply fertilizer (such as bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) to a soil that is deficient in nutrients. Keep fertilizing to a few years at most.
- assist the stems Peonies’ stems, which occasionally are not strong enough to hold their enormous blossoms, are the only part of their structure that may be considered weak. Think of structures that allow the plant to grow through the middle of the support, like three-legged metal peony rings or wire tomato cages.
- Peony blossoms should be deadheaded as soon as they start to fade, cutting to a sturdy leaf so that the stem doesn’t protrude through the foliage. To prevent any infections from overwintering, trim the foliage to the ground in the fall.
- Avoid covering peonies with mulch. For the first winter following planting, you can VERY LOOSELY mulch with pine needles or shredded bark when the winters are bitterly cold. In the spring, get rid of the mulch.
Peonies bloom between late spring and early summer, but by planting a variety of cultivars, you may arrange your garden for a succession of blooms from mid-May to late June. Here are a few options:
- ‘Early Scout’ has red solitary flowers that open incredibly early.
- “Firelight”: very early-blooming, single, pale-pink flowers
- ‘Karl Rosenfield’: double, midseason bloomer with substantial crimson blooms