As annual plants, sweet peas (Lathryus odoratus) complete their whole life cycle in a single growing season. This traditional flower germinates well in cool environments, but if the plants are not covered, frost and freezing temperatures can cause damage to sweet peas. Direct sow sweet peas outdoors in late fall in warmer areas to enhance winter and spring blooms. Young seedlings can survive cold snaps if they are shielded from abnormally low temperatures.
Tip
Sweet peas can withstand a slight frost, but immature seedlings can freeze in temperatures below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. To ensure your cutting garden flowers will endure chilly nights in the early spring, protect sweet peas when low temperatures are anticipated.
The lowest temperature that sweet peas can withstand is what?
According to Gardeners’ World (opens in new tab), sweet peas should be treated like any other non-hardy annual: “Plant your sweet peas outside starting in late May, after all danger of frost has passed. Put them outside throughout the day and bring them inside at night to harden them off before planting.
The most recent edition of Sarah Raven’s podcast (opens in new tab) claims, however, that “Sweet peas are hardy and can go in the garden from the middle of March.”
Confused? So were we up till we learned the RHS’s excellent sweetpea-growing tips (opens in new tab) (watch in the video above). Sweet peas are in fact “extremely tough,” says Propagation Leader Sam Gallivan, and they can withstand frosts “with no issue at all.” They do struggle with extended cold and rainy times, though. Your young sweet pea plants could perish if you reside in a region where early spring can bring both low temperatures just above freezing and a lot of rain.
Because of this, you have two options: either hold off and plant them outside in April when the weather will be warmer, even if it rains, or keep them in a cold frame until the chilly showers stop. However, sweet peas are typically categorized as half-hardy annuals and can withstand dry frost up to -4C. (25F). You will need to cover them with horticultural fleece in the event that temps fall below that.
Can sweet peas survive a little frost?
I adore annual sweet peas and believe that they are the most alluring and unforgettable garden flowers because of their beautiful scent, ruffled, winged blossoms, and treasure trove of radiant hues. These fluted beauties are excellent for cutting, and a tiny bouquet of them will fill a room with a mouthwatering aroma that makes me think of orange blossoms and honey. Sweet peas’ delicate, alluring scent is one of nature’s best-kept secrets; it has never been artificially imitated and is never overbearing or cloying.
There are now a large number of options available in a wide range of colors, from the most delicate sweet pastels to rich, vivid deep hues, including stripes and bicolors. You have a choice of classic, tall, quickly-growing vining sweet peas, non-climbing, dwarf kinds for beds and borders, and variants that cascade 8 to 10 inches in containers. All will beautify and fill the garden with a divine aroma in the spring and summer.
Sweet pea horticulture has a lengthy and fascinating history. On an island off the coast of Sicily in 1699, Father Cupani, a botanizing monk, was the first to gather sweet peas in the wild. Eckford, an Englishman, started hybridizing and selecting sweet peas in the 19th century, bringing in larger varieties in a wider spectrum of hues. These “grandifloras,” which are now referred to as “old-fashioned” or “heirloom,” were highly praised as cut flowers.
In this time, cultivars that were more suited to American garden conditions were created by American seed producers who were growing sweet pea seeds for export to the English market and for American seed catalogs. The coastal region near Lompoc, California, which is chilly, moderate, and windy, is perfect for growing sweet peas because the climate prevents the usual bee visitors from visiting the blooms, preventing cross-pollination and allowing for the preservation of exceptionally pure seed strains. Today, that region, together with England, New Zealand, and Tasmania, continue to supply a large portion of the world’s sweet pea seed.
You will find growing sweet peas to be quite gratifying if you follow the right guidelines and timing for planting. Sadly, sweet peas have a reputation for being challenging to produce, especially in the Midwest and Southeast. However, after speaking with successful sweet pea gardeners around the nation for many years, I am confident that sweet peas can thrive everywhere in the nation. Their beauty and smell are definitely worth the effort even in the rare places where they are more difficult to grow. Knowing when to plant the seeds and how to take care of sweet peas effectively are crucial.
When To Plant Sweet Pea Seeds
Sweet peas can be planted in the fall and again in the spring in regions with warm winters that experience prolonged rainy winters and cold summers, such as the Pacific Northwest. Sue, a gardener from Seattle and the creator of our website, plants seeds in April or May for “armfuls of blossoms” through September.
Plant seeds as soon as the ground is workable in rich, well-drained soil in locations with temperate winters, such as the mid-Atlantic states, which experience humid summers and early, unexpected summer heat. Don’t wait until you plant other annual flowers like sunflowers or cosmos or until the date of your last frost (sweet peas may withstand minor frosts). Your sweet peas won’t be developed enough to withstand the hot temperatures of early summer. If it doesn’t rain, make sure to water your sweet pea plants because they require constant moisture.
Nancy Hammer, a market gardener in Virginia, starts seeds indoors in jumbo packs or 4 inch pots in late March so that they can be planted outdoors as soon as they have two or three pairs of leaves. This allows her to get a head start on the season and prepare for the unpredictability of spring weather. In early to mid April, she also plants seeds straight in the ground. In this manner, she will be ready with healthy seedlings regardless of whether it is chilly and rainy well into spring or if sudden hot weather arrives.
Both Susan Keating in Maine and Jay Leshinsky in Vermont wait until the spring soil can be easily handled before planting, often in late April through mid May, in locations with extremely harsh winters like New England where the earth freezes hard and heaves. Additionally, they get a head start by starting seeds indoors a month to six weeks in advance and planting them outside as soon as the weather allows through May. In either case, keep in mind that sweet peas are unaffected by late, mild frosts. Sweet peas planted in the ground in northern regions in April and May will blossom fully in late summer and continue to do so virtually until the first frost. If the summers are particularly hot, choose a location where the vines will receive some afternoon shade and water if it doesn’t rain.
How hot can sweet peas tolerate it?
Currently, sweet peas are available in every hue but true yellow, including crimson, lavender, and navy blue, as well as certain flecked and streaked varieties. There are shorter varieties that are appropriate for containers that are only eight to 20 inches tall, but the majority of types trail for about six to nine feet.
Despite being regarded as an annual, there are a few cultivars of sweet pea that are perennial, but these lack scent. As does the everlasting pea, a related perennial plant (Lathyrus latifolius). Make sure the sweet peas you buy are scented if that’s essential to you because some breeding of sweet peas has actually preferred flower size over scent.
The essential thing to keep in mind regarding sweet peas, which are quite simple to produce, is that they prefer cool climates and need about 50 days of lows below 60 degrees to blossom properly. In colder climates, plant seeds outdoors as soon as the soil is workable in the early spring. Don’t worry if it becomes colder because seedlings can endure a little bit of frost. From spring through summer, and in some places, even into the fall, there will be flowering. A substantial layer of mulch will keep roots cool and maximize the length of the blooming period.
In the South, sweet peas can be planted outside in the fall, from early October to early November, or even in the late winter, from January to February (search for short-day types). Although they will produce roots, the tops won’t grow much until spring.
Should I cover the peas to prevent frost?
Peas can survive in temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 C.) Peas and pea seedlings will be fine as long as temperatures don’t drop below this level.
Peas can withstand the cold in temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees F (-2 to -6 C), although they will experience some harm. (This is presuming that there is no insulating layer of snow when the cold strikes.)
The plants can survive temperatures as low as 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius) or even 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 degrees Celsius) if snow has fallen and covered the peas.
The ideal temperature range for pea growth is between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 10 degrees Celsius) throughout the day and night, respectively. But even outside of these ranges, peas can still develop and bear fruit because these are the ideal conditions for their growth.
Folklore might suggest that you plant your peas by the middle of March, but it is always a good idea to consider your region’s climate and weather patterns before doing so.
Do peas get hurt by frost?
One of those wonderful crops that does best when planted in the winter is the pea (Pisum sativum). Peas may resist some frost and can be planted in late winter for an early spring harvest, despite not being the most cold-hardy of the popular winter crops. Peas don’t overwinter well in colder locations, unlike certain winter vegetables, although they are typically the first crop that may be grown once winter ends. According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, you can grow them in the majority of USDA zones, from 2 through 9.
Pea plants do well in cooler climates, so a few light frosts or even a layer of snow that can really protect the plants won’t harm them. The seedlings and flower buds, however, can perish in a harsh cold.
Do peas require covering?
When the plants begin to bloom and two weeks later, water them. To assist stop the soil from drying out, add a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants.
With the exception of dwarf varieties, most peas require supports to climb. Smaller types can be supported using pea netting or pea sticks, while taller kinds benefit from trellises, bamboo canes, and netting (twiggy branches).
Plants require enough water after flowering for the pods to expand. Regularly check the soil moisture at the root level and water if necessary.
At what temperature do peas die?
Beans, cantaloupe, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, peas, pepper, potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes, and watermelon would typically all perish in a frost (31-33 degrees F).
Do sweet peas return each year?
Although Lathyrus odoratus, the most popular sweet pea variety, is an annual, there are also perennial forms available (Lathyrus latifolius).
- 1. Annual sweet peas are plants that go through their entire life cycle in a single growing season. They grow, produce seeds, and perish within the span of a year, just like other annual crops. The next year, you must replant new plants in your garden if you want to grow them again. The majority of sweet pea species are annuals.
- 2. Perennial sweet peas: These flowers reappear each year. After the growth season is over, you don’t need to replant them because they will keep growing for a longer period of time. Although there are fewer types of perennial sweet peas available and they tend to lack the traditional sweet pea aroma, they may be simpler to grow.
Choosing sweet peas and perennial peas
The major consideration is whether or not aroma is crucial to you when deciding between perennial Lathyrus and sweet peas. Decide if you would then like an annual or perennial plant. There are several color choices available as well as climbing and bushier varieties.
Fragrance
Choose sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), which are generally very fragrant, if you enjoy a pleasant garden and sweet-smelling flowers for indoor use.
Lord Anson’s blue pea (Lathyrus nervosus), a perennial Lathyus, is an exception to the rule since it does have a perfume.
How long the plant lasts
After setting seed, sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) only have a one-year lifespan. However, don’t let this deter you because they are quite simple to grow from seed. Lathyrus latifolius is an example of a perennial species that returns every year, however there are fewer options and they typically lack smell.
Colour
The annual sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) has a large variety of blossom colors, including bicolored varieties. However, the perennial varieties do come in some uncommon colors, like yellow and orange.
Habit
The majority of Lathyrus are climbing plants, therefore support them with canes, netting, or allow them to climb over a bank or through a bush. For ground cover and pots, clumping varieties like the spring-flowering Lathyrus vernus and dwarf bushy sweet pea varieties like “Snoopea” and “Bijou Mixed” are excellent choices.
Buying sweet peas and perennial peas
Although many garden centers also sell a few sweet pea seeds in packets, the largest assortment of sweet pea seeds may be acquired from internet seed suppliers. In the spring, several nurseries and garden centers sell pots of germinated sweet pea seedlings that can be divided into individual plants and raised in pots before being planted outside.
There are a few seed specialists who sell perennial Lathyrus seeds, like Lathyrus latifolius, but many gardeners opt to purchase the plants instead. The plant you’re looking for can be found using our Find a Plant tool.
When to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
- Annual sweet peas should be sown either in late January or early April and planted out in April.
- Sow perennial Lathyrus in the spring or the fall.
Where to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
Locate a sunny area where there is room for the plant to grow or to bush out (depending on its habit). Also acceptable is a little light shade, especially for Lathyrus grandiflorus.
How to plant sweet peas and perennial peas
- To avoid cold shock, indoor seedlings should be hardened off for 10–14 days before being transplanted outside.
- Ideally, four weeks before planting, enhance the soil by incorporating a soil conditioner like garden compost or manure.
- Sprinkle general-purpose fertilizer, as directed on the pack, into the area where you plan to plant it, such as Growmore, Vitax Q4, or blood, fish, and bones.
- Before planting, water your plants thoroughly to hydrate the roots.
- Remove pots from larger plants and ease seedlings out of modules or pots while being careful not to snap or crush the stems.
- Plants should be separated by 20–30 cm (8–1 ft).
- Place climbing plants near to their intended support (within 5-7.5cm or 2-3in), with two plants at the foot of each cane if they are climbing a wigwam.
- After planting, water once more to help the soil surrounding the roots settle.
Use garden twine or sweet pea support rings to secure young climbing plant shoots to canes, pea sticks, netting, trellis, or shrub shoots that they will be growing up. Tendrils in contact with supports will naturally start to cling on, but if any are straying or in danger of snapping, keep tying in new shoots.
In dry weather, check on plants in the ground every 3 to 4 days and on those in containers every day because they won’t flower as well if they become too dry. Each time you water, be sure to use enough water to completely moisten the roots.
Apply a high potassium liquid fertilizer, such as tomato feed, once or twice a week on light or infertile soils. This promotes flowering, particularly in annual sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus).
Pick or remove dead flower heads as frequently as you can once flowering starts. For annual sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), which will stop flowering if seedpods are allowed to form, this is especially crucial.
Pinching out
When plants are around 7.5 to 10 cm tall, pinch out the shoot tips of new spring-sown sweet peas for gardening (3-4in). This promotes robust side branching. Autumn-planted seedlings frequently naturally branch.
Cordons
Pick the strongest shoot and keep pinching out all the tendrils and other sideshoots as they grow whether you want to enter your sweet peas in a local show or just want to maximize the size of blossoms for cutting. By using this technique, the plant directs its attention to the blossoms. The term “cordons” is used to describe these single-stemmed plants.
One stem per bamboo cane or tall stake needs to be tied to them on a regular basis. To keep the shoot in place as it grows, you can use twine looped in a figure-eight pattern around the cane and stem. Use sweet pea rings, which are wire loops that wrap around the stem and cane and are lightly squeezed until they hold, to make things simpler.
Cordons have the potential to grow much taller than the typical 2 m (6 1/2 ft) estimated height.
Cutting back
Cut perennial Lathyrus back to the ground in the fall, or better still, wait until February to do it so the dead stems can serve as wintertime cover for wildlife. When flowering is ended at the end of the summer, annual sweet peas can simply be pulled out and composted. This might happen a little bit sooner during hot, dry seasons.
Methods
Sweet peas can be immediately sown into the ground in April, or they can be planted in seed compost pots in the fall or spring. Although it takes more time, pot-sowing is typically more dependable than direct sowing. If you plant in the fall to enhance your chances of getting early blooms, keep seedlings in a coldframe or cold greenhouse over the winter to protect them from growing lanky. Keep the coldframe’s lid elevated unless a strong frost is anticipated. Sweet peas planted in the spring flower in 12–14 weeks.
Sweet pea seeds frequently have a tough outer covering that makes them more challenging to germinate. Place your seeds on a layer of damp vermiculite or kitchen tissue and store them in an airtight container in a warm area. As soon as the seeds swell or start to sprout, plant them. Some gardeners like to soak the seeds overnight instead, but if you don’t plant them right away thereafter, they might rot. With a sharp penknife, chip off a little portion of the hard seed coat to allow moisture to enter and promote germination on recalcitrant seeds that haven’t swelled.
- Individually sow seeds in seed compost-filled rootrainers or 9 cm (3 in) pots. As an alternative, sow five to seven seeds per 13 cm (5 in) pot, spacing them 2-3 cm (3/4-11/4 in) apart.
- Add 1 cm (1/2 in) of vermiculite or compost to the top of the seeds.
- Add water and maintain at around 15C. (59F)
- It is optional to cover the pots with clear polythene or glass to reduce the likelihood that they will dry out, but keep in mind to remove the covering after the seeds have germinated.
- Once they have grown to around 3.5 cm (11/2 in), carefully transplant single seedlings into 9cm (3 in) pots if you have seeded them several to a pot.
- Use your thumb and finger to pinch out (remove) the top of the shoot just above a healthy leaf when the seedlings are 7.5–10cm (3–4in) tall. This will promote side branches, which are always stronger than the core stem that has been removed.
- At least four weeks before planting, remove all weeds from the soil and add a soil enhancer, such as garden compost, manure, or composted bark.
- Only plant seeds as the soil begins to warm, typically around April.
- To create a wigwam, plant any temporary supports, like pea sticks or bamboo canes, in the ground.
- Take out a shallow drill of dirt 2.5 cm (1 in) deep for rows of sweet peas, and plant a seed every 5 to 7.5 cm in it (2-3in)
- Seedlings should eventually be spaced 20–30 cm (8–1 ft) apart to provide the plants enough room to flourish. The extra seedlings may seem like a waste to compost, but unless treated carefully, their roots are typically too damaged to recover.
- Push two seeds into the ground at the base of each cane to a depth of 2.5 cm (1 in) when sowing around a wigwam of canes.
Perennial peas
In the spring or the fall, divide bigger plants. If you want to divide Lathyrus vernus in the spring, wait until after flowering.
Unfortunately, very few of the issues with sweet peas and perennial peas are extremely problematic.
- Powdery mildew, which is brought on by drought or insufficient hydration, results in a grey leaf coating.