Can Peonies Be Planted In Pots

Contrary to popular belief, peonies are lovely, classic cottage garden plants that do nicely in the right pots.

As with many other plants, peonies are large, robust plants, making it much simpler to grow them in beds or borders.

But growing peony in substantial pots is an alternative to think about if you have little to no permanent growing space.

Do peony grow better in the ground or in pots?

What’s required for peony plants to prosper? These perennials require little maintenance.

  • They can survive a lifetime and thrive in USDA zones 2 to 8.
  • A must-have is well-drained soil.
  • A full day of sunshine is ideal, but a half-day is also acceptable. A prolonged bloom season may benefit from some shade.
  • The best time to grow peonies is in the fall, when you can plant them bare root.
  • Just an inch or two of earth is placed over the eyes before roots are planted (buds).
  • Peonies in pots can be moved in the spring or fall.
  • Early in the spring, fertilize.
  • After bloom, deadhead the wasted blooms.

In the first two years following planting, peonies develop a strong root system. The first year, they frequently bloom. The size of the plant and blossom both increase the next year. They mature and start to produce a profusion of flowers by their third spring. You may never need to divide your peonies because you can frequently enjoy your peony plants in the same location for decades (unless you want additional plants to grow or share).

In the fall, plant peonies from bare roots. When planted between late August and early November, they will grow more feeder roots more quickly. We have planted in various months of the year (bare root or from pots). I’ve tried planting some in December and January, but they won’t develop much root growth in the first few months. Instead, they will lay in the ground, waiting for the ideal moment to grow. If the chance presents itself, I take chances when planting. I don’t believe I’ve lost any plants because of the time of year I planted them; perhaps slower root development the first year. Sometimes planting a root during the “wrong time of year” is preferable to caring for it in a container. In my experience, peony plants with adequate roots grow and enlarge in the third year, regardless of when they were planted.

Peony plants in pots (containers) can be moved in the spring or the fall. Additionally, bare root peonies can be potted up in the fall or early winter and planted in the spring. Store potted peonies slightly moist in a garage or shed when temperatures fall below 10 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time to protect them from severe freezing/thawing/freezing.

  • Peonies adore the sun, and for the optimum growth and bloom, they need at least a half day of it (full sun is ideal). A little bit of shade is acceptable and can help your peonies bloom with more vibrant color; just make sure they get at least a half day of direct sunlight. (Too much shade will result in little to no peony flower and foliage).
  • The optimum place for peony plants to flourish is in the ground, although some gardeners are growing one or two in sizable patio pots. For optimal results, use a large container of 10 gallons or more due to the peony’s relatively massive roots. Make sure it has good drainage, and don’t forget to water it more frequently than a peony that was planted in the ground. Large raised beds are also a good choice for peonies.
  • Peonies can grow in a variety of soil conditions and prefer well-drained clay soil. Although you can amend your soil, it is frequently unnecessary. Our farm’s clay soil is well-drained and supports the growth of our peonies. You can amend your soil if you’d like to increase the organic matter and nutrients.
  • Dig a hole that is roughly 15 by 15 inches for the planting site, then fill it with the spaded soil. In order for the root to sit just below or at ground level, only the necessary amount of dirt should be removed.
  • With the “eyes” (buds) facing upward, place the peony root at any angle and downward. One to two inches of soil are deposited on top of the “eyes” of the roots, which are positioned close to the surface of the ground (buds). Be careful not to bury peony roots too far. Imagine doing this by placing your bare-root peony “just below ground level” or at ground level with just a few inches of soil mounding over the root.
  • Gardeners claim success with planting the peony root near ground level with just a touch of soil (about one half inch) over the eyes in warmer climates (The South, California), where peonies can be grown.
  • Itoh Intersectional peonies have very enormous roots, and some of their “eyes” are located on a woody stem. To completely enclose the eyes, you might position these peony roots at an angle. Compared to other herbaceous peonies, itoh peonies can be planted a little bit deeper.
  • Immediately after planting your peony root, water it. Make sure to keep giving fresh peony plants water every week or so until the Fall rains take over.
  • Check the peony root carefully; if it has sunk too far, pick it up and add more dirt beneath it. For optimal results, make sure the soil is only one to two inches deep. Peonies that are planted too deeply may only produce foliage and no flowers.
  • When you plant bare root peonies in the fall, they will develop new feeder roots. The roots buried in the ground won’t be harmed by the winter’s frigid temperatures (garden). Peonies enjoy chilly winters.
  • A very large container with good drainage is necessary when planting peony in pots or containers. Make sure that the soil is only one to two inches thick around the eyes. Water the potted peonies and keep them moist, but allow a period of near-dryness between waterings. Protect potted peony from freezing temperatures in the winter. Roots of planted or potted peony plants are not harmed by frost; however, potted peonies may be affected by persistent arctic blasts or deep freezing.
  • When you first plant or transplant your new peony plants, give them plenty of water. Deeply water a peony, then wait a few days before watering it again. During dry conditions, watering first-year peony roots/plants every two weeks should be sufficient. The roots’ establishment will be aided by the wetness.
  • You might not need to water your peony again until you experience dry weather in the spring or summer until the autumn and winter rains start.
  • Peony plants are quite drought tolerant after they are a few years old, though they do benefit from a good watering every few weeks during the hot summers. Peonies do not require frequent watering after they are established.
  • Early in the spring, we apply 1/4 cup of fertilizer (10-20-20) to the drip line of our mature peonies. Following blooming, you can fertilize your peony plants. While some gardeners fertilize their peonies yearly, many do not. For the best outcomes with your soil, you might wish to experiment.
  • Use a slow release fertilizer when fertilizing potted peonies because other fertilizers will burn the leaves. In the early spring, right before plants bloom, we fertilize.
  • After flowering, remove flower/seed pods. You can cut the stems of your peonies to any shape you like.
  • Leave seed pods on the stems until they burst open in the late summer if you wish to allow them to mature. The seed can be sown right away in the ground or on potting flats and kept moist until the arrival of the fall rains. Some seeds will grow the following spring, while others will do so the following year.
  • In the late fall, trim peony stems all the way to the ground. To keep the garden clean, remove the stems and leaves. Peony stems and leaves should not be composted.
  • Northwest regions don’t need to be mulched. Mulch is sometimes used by gardeners in regions with particularly harsh winters; however, if you do this, make sure to remove the mulch in the spring; otherwise, your peony will be “planted” too deeply.

Check for the following signs if your peony start to lose their vitality over time:

  • The root may have been buried too deeply as a result of seasonal additions of mulch or bark dust (without springtime clearance). In our northwest environment, peonies don’t require protection because they enjoy the chilly winters.
  • Trees and plants in the landscape may offer an abundance of shade.
  • It’s possible that tree roots grew through the peony roots, crowding them.
  • too much nitrogen
  • They might also have lost their vigor, like some individuals, and require reviving. By digging up, dividing, and replanting a division with three to five eyes in a different location that gets good sun and drainage, you can revitalize your peony. They’ll recover quickly.

The winners of Gold Medal and Award of Landscape Merit peonies from the American Peony Society (APS) are featured on our peony descriptions. The American Peony Society has accorded commendable distinction to the flowers and/or growth environment of these peony.

Peonies that have earned the Award of Landscape Merit (ALM) demonstrate exceptional decorative value, overall landscape look throughout the growing season, and dependable performance across North America. The APS will assess numerous other peony types deserving of the title in the years to come. The ALM award is still in its infancy.

Court of Honor for the peony “Ave Maria” at the 2013 APS floral exhibit; Court of Honor for the peony “Coral Supreme” at the 2012 APS floral exhibit; and we were honored to receive Best in Show – Grand Champion awards for the peony “Bob” at the 2011 APS floral exhibit are just a few of our Brooks Gardens’ award-winning peonies. In 2018, “Lavon” won Grand Champion, and “Raspberry Charm” won Court of Honor.

In containers, can peony survive the winter?

Growing Medium: We advise using any commercially available bark-based, well-drained soilless mix.

Planting Depth: The success of flowering depends largely on the planting depth. The eyes may fail to bloom if they are planted either too shallowly or too deeply. The most frequent cause of peonies not blooming is this, which is the most frequent error committed while planting peonies. The eyes must be buried between 11/2 and 2 inches beneath the soil surface.

Timing: Many growers are curious as to how late peonies can be effectively potted up. It’s never truly too late or too cold, said Renee Jaeger and Roy Klehm of Klehm’s Song Sparrow Farm and Nursery. The equilibrium between the air and soil temperatures must be preserved, as growers are aware.

When overwintering potted peony, it is ideal to do it in a covered building like a greenhouse or covered polyhouse. To become vernalized, they need 500 to 700 hours at 32 to 37 °F. The best course of action is to let them to adjust to outdoor temps gradually after that. Please be advised that peonies sent after January 1 have already undergone vernalization.

Temperature: Peonies must be grown in a cool environment when vernalization is complete. The Klehm’s Song Sparrow suggests cool nights between 35–40°F and days between 45 and 50°F. On sunny days, it might be necessary to turn on the fans in the greenhouse to maintain this colder temperature. Higher temperatures cause the plants to develop their buds more slowly and the flowers to deteriorate more quickly.

Fertilizer: Klehm’s Song Sparrow advises applying a low rate fertilizer, such as 18-6-8 at 100-150ppm at every other watering, in the spring when they are potted up. Flowering may be hampered by overfertilization.

Do peonies prefer shade or the sun?

  • Keep plants neat by deadheading and prune as needed (herbaceous only).
  • When peonies become congested and produce fewer blooms, divide the plants.
  • When the blossoms feel like soft marshmallows, cut the stems for bouquets. Water should contain Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers.

When the peonies blossom, you can finally start to feel the arrival of summer. Around Memorial Day, when spring bulb flowers are starting to fade and summer blooms are beginning to emerge, these stunning perennials bloom profusely. Peonies are resistant to deer and rabbits, which is useful for gardeners who frequently experience issues with animals eating their plants. Peonies are frequently seen blooming despite years of neglect if you drive through old cemeteries or abandoned farmsteads. That is because to how simple peony are to grow!

How to Choose Peonies

Peonies come in four different varieties. They are forest peonies, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, and intersectional peonies, in the order of blooming time. Herbaceous peonies, which thrive in zones 3–7, and tree peonies, which flourish in zones 3–9, are the two most popular varieties. Herbaceous plants often reach heights of two to three feet and spreads of two to four feet. With some types reaching heights of 7 feet, tree peony are more closely related to tiny shrubs. The type of peony you plant will depend on where you live and the style you’re going for because all peonies require similar maintenance. The focus of this paper will be on tree and herbaceous peony.

When to Plant Peonies

Fall is the ideal season to plant peonies. This is often when peonies purchased from a catalog will be delivered. It’s okay to plant peonies when you see them flowering and for sale in containers in the spring.

Where to Plant Peonies

Peonies require at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day, though in zones 8 and 9, some shade from the sweltering afternoon sun is beneficial. Additionally, picking a location with sufficient air circulation is crucial to avoiding fungal illnesses.

How to Plant Peonies

In somewhat damp, well-drained soil, peonies thrive. Dig a hole, take the plant from the pot, and plant container-grown herbaceous peonies (the kind you buy in pots) so that the top of the root ball is level with the earth (any deeper and the peonies will not bloom). Fill up the area surrounding the plant by combining the discarded soil with an equal amount of Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers.

Before planting bare root herbaceous peonies, give them a brief dip in a basin of water to rehydrate them. Create a planting hole that is big enough to fit the roots, mix the soil as previously mentioned, and place a mound of the blended soil in the middle of the planting hole. Place the roots atop the mound and let them fan out and descend. Using the remaining blended soil, fill in the remaining portion of the hole, making sure that the “No more than 1 to 2 inches of soil should be present around the plant’s eyes (or growth buds) in order for it to bloom.

Deeper planting is required for tree peony. Unless they are grafted, peonies should be planted in the same soil combination as above, 2 to 4 inches deep at the crown (where the roots meet the stem). Check the label to see if the plant has been grafted, and then plant it such that the “The plant’s graft union, where the grafted top and rootstock are united, is located 4 to 6 inches below the soil line.

How to Stake Peonies

Peony stems are prone to toppling over after it rains, and the blossoms can become big and heavy. For herbaceous peonies, the best approach is to cover each plant in a peony cage in the spring, before the leaves begin to sprout (picture metal supports with rings for the flowers to grow up through). This is far more effective than attempting to hold each flower stalk separately, and it also looks nicer than wrapping the entire plant in string and cinching it in like a belt.

One stake can be used to stake tree peonies. Place the stake next to the stem in the ground, and then use a piece of twine to loosely secure the plant to the stake.

How to Water Peonies

When planting, give everything plenty of water. When the spring foliage begins to emerge and the flower buds start to show, give the plants another drink. Although peonies do not have a thirst, they will benefit from watering during dry spells for a year following the first planting.

How to Feed Peonies

Your peony will benefit from a powerful combination of care that includes excellent soil and the ideal plant food. Give peonies the nutrition they require by feeding them Miracle-Gro Shake ‘n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food in addition to the soil improvements indicated above for stunning color and more flowers than unfed plants. Peonies should be fed twice a year: the first time, right after they emerge in the spring (when the new shoots are 2 to 3 inches tall but before the flower buds are pea-sized), and the second time, in the middle of the growing season (about three months after the first feeding), to help them develop sturdy roots before the arrival of winter. Make sure you adhere to label instructions.

How to Help Prevent Problems with Peonies

Although mostly fuss-free, peonies occasionally experience fungal issues. Browning and failure to open flower buds are symptoms of botrytis. Brown patches on leaves are a symptom of some fungus illnesses. Infected blooms and leaves should be simply pruned off and disposed of (do not compost) in order to control these problems. Additionally, keep the plants neat, remove old foliage at the end of the season, and deadhead spent blooms. Peony blooms occasionally draw ants, but they won’t hurt the plants, so you can ignore them. (Contrary to popular belief, peonies do not require ants to blossom.)

How to Prune Peonies

Cut back each flower stalk on herbaceous peonies once all of the blooms have faded to just above a leaf, low enough so that the stem doesn’t protrude above the rest of the leaves. Unruly tree peony can be trimmed either in the spring or the fall (right before plants go dormant). However, any stems you trim back in the fall will not blossom the following spring (as you will be cutting off the flower buds). After blossoming in the spring, you can prune. Anytime you choose to prune, be careful not to take more than one-third of the plant with you.

How to Divide Peonies

It is ideal to leave tree peony alone (undivided) so they can flourish for many generations in the garden. If the clumps have become too large or the flowering has slowed, herbaceous peonies can be divided. Herbaceous peonies can be divided by digging up the entire clump and rinsing it off to reveal the plant’s numerous roots and eyes (or buds). Leave as least one large root and three to four eyes per clump after cutting the plant apart with clean, sharp pruners. Replant, adhering to the bare root peony planting directions above. The plants might or might not flower the first year after dividing, so keep that in mind.

How to Cut Peonies for Bouquets

Timing is crucial. Buds should feel roughly as firm as a soft marshmallow when squeezed, which is known as the “soft marshmallow stage.” Examining the bud’s coloration is another method for determining when to cut. The majority of the bud’s exterior should remain green, but you should be able to make out approximately half an inch of the flower’s vibrant petals. Although cutting the flowers at this point lessens the possibility of bringing ants inside with them, it is still advisable to inspect the flowers before bringing them inside. Plants should open up when stems are placed in a vase of water. For longer-lasting blooms, change the water every few days and apply Miracle-Gro for Fresh Cut Flowers (vs. water only).

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