Our greenhouse is loaded with lovely potted Hydrangea plants before Easter and Mother’s Day. These are great gifts, but many people worry if it’s feasible to store them and plant them in the landscape later because they are produced in a greenhouse and are in flower months before their normal blooming season when grown outdoors. Here are a few success suggestions:
- On Cape Cod, the majority of hydrangeas offered as gift plants are hardy. They will develop flower buds in August, just as regular Hydrangea macrophylla, and those buds will bloom the following summer. If wintertime temperatures fall below 10 degrees, these buds are susceptible to damage from the cold. As a result, these will have less blossoming in the summer following a cold winter, just like all of our pink and blue hydrangeas.
- Hydrangea plants in pots dry out rapidly. The hardest part of keeping them indoors in April and May is doing this. The best course of action is to move your greenhouse Hydrangea as soon as possible into a little bigger container. Make sure the pot you use has a drainage hole and is about an inch larger on all sides. Fill in the gaps with fresh potting soil, but don’t pack it in too tightly. Squeezing the air out of the openings will prevent the roots from growing and will also prevent the water from flowing.
- After repotting, keep your hydrangea in a sunny area, but avoid placing it at the window with the most sunlight. The ideal window is one that faces east. Additionally, plants will flourish if they are placed close to but not directly in a southern or western window.
- If the soil on your hydrangea starts to feel dry, water it right away to prevent drooping. Keeping the pot submerged in water for more than an hour could result in the roots rotting.
- Put your hydrangea outside in part shade at the end of May, then bring it inside at night for a week. Place your Hydrangea after that week in a location that will provide morning sun and afternoon shade. Don’t let its current tiny size deceive you; most Hydrangea shrubs grow at least four feet high and wide.
In our naturally acidic soils, red-toned Hydrangea blossoms will turn a dark purple or blue. The blossoms will continue to be red or pink if the soil is still alkaline.
Even though these hydrangeas were produced in a greenhouse, they should develop and bloom the following year provided the correct conditions during the winter.
Long-term, hydrangeas are not the best indoor plants. However, if you reside in a region where winter lows often drop below 5 degrees, you can plant these in pots and overwinter them in a garage or another warm location where temps won’t fall much below 30 degrees. Don’t worry, they will start to leaf out in the garage in March. Just remember to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and move the plants outside once the risk of frost has passed. Ideally, they should bloom in late June or early July. When you set the pot outside for the summer, fertilize with an equal mixture of Osmocote and Holly-tone or Flower-tone (one tablespoon each per pot).
Can I put a hydrangea in a pot outside?
“For Mother’s Day, my daughter handed me a lovely hydrangea. It has done so wonderfully that I’m curious if I should plant it outside or keep it within as a houseplant.”
Hydrangeas with foil encircling the pot, whether they were a gift or something you bought yourself, frequently differ from those bought at a nursery. The foil-wrapped hydrangea is often grown for a single, grand performance. The plant has been specifically fed to produce a lot of huge blooms quickly, frequently at the price of the plant’s long-term health.
The hydrangeas selected for this project are exclusively grown in greenhouses and might not be winter hardy where they are purchased.
If your locale isn’t warm enough to cultivate hydrangeas outdoors, you might wonder if you can grow them indoors as a houseplant.
A. There are a variety of reasons why growing hydrangeas inside in a home environment is not particularly successful. When hydrangeas may experience a period of dormancy brought on by chilly weather, they thrive. Hydrangeas rarely blossom indoors, attract insects, and lose their leaves unless they are in a greenhouse. They frequently dry out too rapidly and wilt, which makes them weaker.
However, some gift/florist-type hydrangeas may be grown extremely well in the landscape, as you can see from the images below.
Although growing hydrangeas indoors is not the optimal answer, it is conceivable if one lives in an apartment or in an area where they cannot survive:
1) Put the hydrangea in the coolest part of your house; ideally, an unheated room.
2) Position it close to a window so that it receives the most light possible.
The third and most crucial tip is to not overwater the plant by letting it sit in water or by watering it too frequently. It’s preferable to keep it dry during the winter, but it shouldn’t ever get too dry that it wilts.
Whenever possible, it is ideal to plant the potted hydrangea outside. It should only be planted outside in the early to mid-summer because it needs time to get used to the weather before winter.
In conclusion, unless it may be planted in the garden, foil-wrapped hydrangeas are best employed as a temporary plant in a person’s home.
After a potted hydrangea blooms, what should you do with it?
Hydrangeas produce beautiful, vividly colored blossoms on globe-shaped flower heads, and they are frequently presented as gifts during the spring holidays. The United States National Arboretum claims that Hydrangea macrophylla is the most widely cultivated species in the country. Hydrangeas make excellent indoor plants and may be grown outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 6 through 8. If you received a potted hydrangea as a present, it was probably already in bloom. After the petals first fade, many people throw away their hydrangeas, but with the right care, the plant will bloom once more.
Can you move a hydrangea that is already established?
A: I want to relocate a sizable hydrangea plant to a different area of my garden. What time of year is ideal for this?
A huge hydrangea plant can be moved, but it will be very heavy so plan to seek assistance. Make sure to remove the largest portion of the hydrangea root ball.
Hydrangea shrubs can be planted in spring or fall, but the majority of the publications I read advise waiting for cooler weather and moving the bushes in late fall or early spring, when the plants are dormant but the soil is still usable.
The plant’s mature, unpruned size should fit in the new planting location. Pick a location with soil that drains effectively. Rich organic matter in the soil will help it retain moisture. Keep in mind that soil that is damp can nonetheless be effectively drained. A spot where water pools or takes a long time to drain should be avoided after a strong downpour.
An excellent location will not be completely shaded in the afternoon. To blossom, hydrangeas require sunlight—not intense sunlight, but also not complete shadow. Each kind of hydrangea has a different tolerance for sun exposure.
After relocating, give the transplanted hydrangea one good soak in water. After relocating, avoid overwatering, but give the plant additional watering over the course of the following two summers as it gets acclimated.
A: I have two healthy fig trees (same cutting), but for the second year in a row, neither of them has produced any figs. Advice?
A fig tree is something I’ve never grown. I’ve looked at a few sources and can suggest the following. I am aware that the cuttings are from the same tree and of the same age, but I am unaware of the reader’s growth practices.
Starting with the potential causes of a fig tree not producing fruit:
It isn’t old enough: A fig tree usually starts bearing fruit between the ages of two and six. It makes sense that two trees that were grown from the same cutting will develop similarly and reach maturity around the same time.
An issue with gardening is having too much nitrogen. A plant with too much nitrogen will have healthy leaves but no fruit. The majority of the sources I looked at advised making only one sparing spring fertilizer application.
Fig trees don’t like to be too wet or too dry, which causes water stress. Make sure the soil has good drainage, and keep it evenly moist but not soggy or humid.
Does this resolve the issue? I’m not sure, but I think the first step would be to look at the circumstances that each plant is facing. Do you drink more or less water? Does one plant receive run-off fertilizer from an adjacent lawn if it is planted in the ground? Does the soil differ in any way? What has changed?
If you’ve grown figs and have any tips for this reader, send them to me and I’ll share them with them.
Even though it’s only September, you should get your amaryllis bulbs from the previous winter ready to bloom once more as there are only roughly 15 weeks before Christmas. If you followed my instructions, you would have cut the flower stems back after they bloomed and preserved the greens through the winter. You will then plant them this spring and let them to thrive throughout summer. The containers are filled with lush, deep green leaves.
Move the pots inside and stop watering them right away. The bulbs need to become dormant.
They should be kept in a dark, cool (not cold) place. Once the leaf has dried up and become shriveled, remove it. Before they begin to grow once more, the bulbs will rest for eight to twelve weeks.
Water the bulbs and relocate them to a location with bright but indirect light as soon as you see fresh growth. After emerging from dormancy, the bulbs should flower four to six weeks later. After 12 weeks, if they still don’t sprout, try watering them and moving them into light.
Until the first frost, I normally leave my amaryllis outside. Because of this, I had lovely flowers in February, when I really value them. For my Christmas display, I usually buy fresh bulbs, however after a while, I have a lot of bulbs. Can there ever be too many amaryllis flowers, though?
I have finally recovered from Lyme disease symptoms after taking medications and avoiding sunshine for more than two months. Every time you walk outside, take precautions against ticks to spare yourself a lot of pain. Although that is a story for another day, the garden is a jungle.
This orchard is nearby, accessible, and reasonable—only it’s 15 minutes from my house. James Hamilton founded it in 1974, and his twin sons Ron and Rick now oversee it. The family website states that the orchard started providing pick your own in 2015. On a Saturday afternoon, my friend Betty Cauler and I went and came home with a lot of gorgeous nectarines and peaches (Flaming Fury) (Fantasia).
There are now also apples accessible. Find a local producer and enjoy the delight of freshly picked, locally grown fruit if you are unable to do so yourself.
Native Plant Sale at the Unitarian Universalist Church, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., September 17 and 18, 414 Center St., Bethlehem. There are more than 1,300 plants and more than 55 different species of potted native perennials available ($3–$6, larger pots $10). The Lehigh Valley’s green spaces profit from the sale. While you are at the plant sale, complete the native plant survey for the Lehigh Gap Environmental Educational Center to earn a voucher good for $10 off your plant purchase.
- Planting:
- Plant pansies for early spring blooms and fall color, if you choose winter pansies.
- Mums and asters are beginning to show up on the market.
- Plant seeds that need a period of cold weather for germination.
- Keep fresh plants indoors until it gets cooler.
- Seasonal:
- Let the last flush of blossoms mature and set seed.
- For planting in the fall, place an order for asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flower and fruit plants, and shrubs.
- Frequently weed and remove the blossoms from any weeds that you are unable to get out.
- Keep irises and day lilies from setting seedpods by deadheading the flowers and trimming any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage.
- Lawn:
- Through mid-October, sow, overseed, dethatch, and aerate lawns.
- Apply weed control for broadleaf plants from mid-September until mid-October.
- As the weather begins to cool in September and October, prepare sodding projects and lay sod.
- Treat for sod webworms and chinch bugs.
- Fill up the lawn’s holes and low areas.
- Apply weed control made of corn gluten to the garden; repeat every four to six weeks.
- Chores:
- Don’t water amaryllis bulbs anymore. Let the bulbs dry up and enter a dormant state. Keep them dry and cool until they grow again in 8 to 12 weeks.
- Regular crop harvesting should occur, ideally every other day.
- often, water containers.
- Garden hoses and broken screens should be repaired or replaced.
- Remove any standing water
- Protect delicate plants from deer, rabbits, and groundhogs. Reapply taste or odor inhibitors.
- Regularly clean and restock birdbaths and feeders.
- Rainwater runoff should be directed away from building foundations by clearing gutters.
- Equipment, supplies, and tools:
- Verify the seed supply for planting in the fall and late crops.
- Pots and trays used for seed beginning and transplanting should be cleaned and sterilized.
What should you do with hydrangeas in pots throughout the winter?
Bring potted plants indoors before the first frost for the greatest hydrangea winter protection. They can stay outside and be protected by covering the entire pot and plant if they are too heavy to transport. Foam insulation is one way to safeguard your potted plants.
How long do hydrangeas in pots last?
In U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 5 through 9, hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) gardens are adorned with enormous, vibrant blooms. These shrubs, which share their frothy blossoms for the most of the summer and may grow between 4 and 12 feet tall with proper care, can live for decades.
Hydrangeas are hardy shrubs that, with proper care, can survive for up to 50 years. They require frequent watering during the growing season and prefer early light but afternoon shade. After the blossoms have faded, prune them in the fall so that they will have sturdy stems for the summer after. The hydrangeas may lose their blooms for a year while the plants heal if they are pruned when they are in bloom.
Common hydrangeas, sometimes known as bigleaf hydrangeas, bloom in a variety of hues, including blue, pink, and purple. These hydrangeas typically start to bloom in May, which is sooner than some other kinds. Usually, the plants keep producing blooms until July. According to the characteristics of the soil, bigleaf hydrangeas are known to shift their bloom colors; a plant that blooms pink one year may bloom blue the following. Aluminum sulfate, which is added to the soil, promotes blue flowers, whereas hydrated lime, which is added to alkaline soils, promotes pink blossoms. Ayesha, Nikko Blue, and Preziosa are cultivars.
Longer blooming than other hydrangeas, the smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) frequently displays color from early June through September. The cultivars “Anabelle” in white and “Invincibelle Spirit” in pink are examples. Smooth hydrangeas often bloom on wood from the current year, which means you should severely prune them, in contrast to other hydrangeas that bloom best on ancient wood. Trim them to a height of 6 to 12 inches above ground.
The panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) blooms later in the year because it prefers the heat of summer to the mild weather of spring. Panicle hydrangeas often begin blooming in July and continue through September. Their blossoms are initially white, but as fall approaches, they start to turn rusty pink.
However, if you relocate the plants or transplant one from a pot to the ground, the hydrangeas may not bloom for a year or perhaps two. Hydrangeas can produce big flowers in their first year. This does not imply that their time of flowering is over. Once the roots of the plants have recovered from the shock of transplantation, they should begin to blossom. To this end, keep the plants well-watered and treat them with a balanced fertilizer throughout the spring, summer, and fall.
Shala Munroe has been writing and copy editing since 1995 from her home outside of Atlanta, Georgia. She began her career in journalism at publications like the Marietta Daily Journal and the Atlanta Business Chronicle. She most recently had managerial and communications positions for a number of charity organizations before opening a flower business in 2006. She graduated from Jacksonville State University with a BA in communications.