One of my favorite garden tasks is caring for a cutting garden that produces fresh flowers all year long. Most people are unaware that zinnias may be planted into the late summer and enjoyed until the fall, despite the fact that they are a popular addition to spring cutting gardens. Zinnias grow well in hot climates and are simple to grow from seed. Because the temperature is typically a little dryer in the fall, zinnia growing conditions are ideal. I advise sowing zinnia seeds by August 15th to enjoy them all fall long. After the first frost, they will go extinct.
Full sun and well-drained soil are preferred by zinnias. Sow seeds 9–12 inches apart. Pinching zinnias when they are young is beneficial when they are grown for cut flowers. Longer flower stems and branching are encouraged by pinching. When the second or third true leaf set occurs, pinch off the new growth. Only one pinch is necessary. Additionally, zinnia cuttings encourage additional branching and flowering. I advise deadheading the spent flowers if you’d rather leave them on the plant. Deadheading is the process of removing wilted flowers to promote new growth and prevent disease.
Although zinnias can withstand short periods of drought, they occasionally need irrigation. Keep overhead irrigation to a minimum. Use a drip tape, a soaker hose, or just let your hose drip at the plants’ bases. The spread of illness can be stopped by watering the plants at their bases. Those who have ever raised zinnias are likely to have encountered zinnia leaf spots. Leaf spots on zinnias begin at the plant’s base and progress up the leaves, finally killing the plants. Different fungus diseases can cause zinnia leaf spots, which can be treated with fungicide sprays. Since you will have plenty of time to enjoy zinnias before the spots take over, I often advise against spraying them. However, if you must, consider rotating mancozeb with myclobutanil (Spectracide Immunox) every seven days to ward off the spots.
Although there are numerous zinnia seed variations available online, I find that whichever variety the neighborhood garden center provides works just as well. I suggest giving them all a try! Old favorites include The Benary Giant, State Fair, and Cactus Flowered Mix. Good fortune!
Is August too late to plant zinnias?
Zinnia seeds can still be planted now for late summer color that will endure until the first frost. Additionally, they produce stunning cut flowers with a lengthy vase life.
Even the most inexperienced gardener should grow zinnias because they are one of the tried-and-true garden flowers. My first memories of gardening are when I first encountered zinnias. The bush beans and tomatoes set aside for zinnias were a constant source of conflict. My favorite annual flower is still the zinnia, and they now have a prime location next to my back deck where I can enjoy them in the warm weather.
Growing zinnias is simple; they prefer full sunlight and well-drained soil. They may be planted directly in the garden or transferred. Plant them in a peat pot that can be placed directly into the garden or planting bed if you decide to have a head start and want to transplant so as to avoid disturbing the roots.
There are many different types of zinnias. They come in sizes ranging from 6 inches to nearly 4 feet, from dwarf to enormous. The flower heads are available in many different forms, including single and double flowers, spidery shapes, and domes.
The amazing variety of hues is the best feature. The palest pastel hues to the brightest hues are all available in zinnias. They come in solid, multicolored, striped, and specked patterns.
Dead heading zinnias is advised by Michigan State University Extension to ensure flowering from early summer through frost. Zinnias are encouraged to continue performing by dead heading throughout the season. But because zinnias fatigue, I advise putting them in succession every two weeks. I intend to plant in succession beginning in late May and continuing until the first week of July, roughly. This ensures spectacular blooms through the end of September. It’s not too late to plant some zinnia seeds for color that will persist through the first frost in the late summer.
In addition to their amazing garden display, zinnias make fantastic cut flowers and may be used anywhere you need a splash of color. Many zinnia cultivars can stay in a vase for seven to twelve days. The mainstay of the farmer’s market is zinnias as well. Flower farmers would tell that zinnias are one of the most profitable flowers to grow due to their vibrant colors, ease of maintenance, and extended vase life.
The zinnia variants “Benary’s Giant” and “Cut and Come Again” are two of my favorites. Their surnames are biographical. On tall stems that stand between 40 and 52 inches in height, “Benary’s Giant” has huge blooms and dazzling flowers. Cutting the stem just above a bud junction will encourage “Cut and Come Again” to produce continuously throughout the growing season, as will all zinnias.
Can zinnias be planted in the late summer?
Nowadays, not many flowers are cultivated from seeds, but zinnias are worthwhile. These simple summer annuals reward the grower with colorful flowers up to six inches across that complement both urban and rural gardens and make lovely bouquets.
My summer flower garden last year got off to a late start, with my zinnia seeds not being planted until July. May or June is the suggested time so that plants can establish themselves before the sweltering summer heat.
I went to my local nursery and purchased many packages of zinnia seeds as I hadn’t placed a catalog order. But I also bought some zinnia seedlings in the hopes that they would produce a yield earlier.
To my amazement, the nursery seedlings only blossomed 10 days before my seed-grown plants did, despite having a lead start. Although the blooms in each group were beautiful, the plants grown from seeds cost a fraction of what I paid for nursery plants, and the seeds produced hundreds of plants—many more than I needed.
Zinnias are available in a huge range of shapes and sizes. The huge, cactus-flowered blossoms with mop-headed daisy-like heads are my favorites. The tiny lilliput (pompon) species, whose thickly packed petals resemble parrot feathers, is another favorite of mine.
The Haageana or Mexicana variety features 1 1/2-inch flowers with pointed petals bordered with a contrasting shade, as opposed to the more formal dahlia-flowered zinnias, which have huge blooms with flat petals.
It’s laughably simple to grow zinnias. Children frequently perform on par with skilled gardeners. Contrary to petunias or snapdragons, the seeds are huge, making it easy to seed them and give them the proper spacing.
Make a furrow in the prepared soil that is about 1 inch deep. The seeds should be deposited four inches apart. To prevent the seeds from being washed away, cover with one-eighth inch of soil and water lightly. Till the seeds sprout, which typically takes four to eight days, keep the soil moist. Transplant any surplus seedlings to bare places or pots after thinned to a distance of 10 inches.
Mildew is the main issue with zinnias, especially where I live near the shore. Planting zinnias early enough in the summer to allow them to bloom before late September, when the days start to get shorter and the plants get more damp at night, can lessen its effects. It’s also a good idea to water the roots solely, leaving the foliage dry. Spray a fungicide, such as Funginex, on the leaves at the first indication of a white powder coating them.
I experimented with Z. augustifolia one summer (also called zinnia classic, Z. linearias, or thin-leaved zinnia). Although its 1 1/2-inch golden-orange semidouble blooms were not as eye-catching as modern hybrids’, the plants did have one enticing quality that made them stand out: they did not develop mildew, even in my humid climate.
Now I find that the Z. elegans and Z. augustifolia hybridizers at Burpee have produced a pink, 2 1/2-inch bloom that is supposedly mildew-resistant. In the flower garden this summer, I can’t wait to test this new type, Rose Pinwheel.
I’ll also plant pink cosmos, pink statice, rose cleome, blue salvia (S. farinacea Victoria), rose shades of strawflower, and gloriosa daisies around it. Rose Pinwheel’s gold centers should compliment the gold daisies well, and blue is a great complementary hue in general.
I’ll start the strawflowers in flats a few weeks prior to planting them in the garden because they take longer to flower. The seeds for all the other plants will be planted right in the garden. Although blue salvia is simple to cultivate from seed, it takes several months before it starts to bloom, making it a summer flower that I typically buy from the nursery.
All of my plants will be cultivated next to soaker hoses so that I may use water as effectively as possible. My irrigation system is basic, despite the fact that some irrigation systems are fairly complex (with computer timers and multivalve stations).
I use 150 feet of soaker hose connected to the garden hose for each tier of my garden where annuals are sown. Twice a week, I let the water run gently for about five hours. I may decide whether to apply more or less by keeping an eye on the soil’s moisture level.
Several well-known zinnia strains can be acquired at garden centers for gardeners who like the speed and convenience of seedlings.
The biggest is State Fair, a dependable favorite that has been around for years and is dahlia-flowered. On 12- to 18-inch bushes, the Peter Pan, Pulchino, and Cut-and-Come-Again zinnias yield three-inch flattened blooms. Thumbelina, the smallest zinnia, is adorable but only blooms for a little period of time, making it seem hardly worth the effort.
Zinnias are a favorite of Terry Hartog, who grows thousands of bedding plants for his Vintage Nursery in Lakewood. Because of its relatively big blossom size and compact growth, he prefers a mass planting of Peter Pan that is surrounded by the white vinca Little Bright Eye. The bottom leaves of zinnias can grow unattractive, thus the vinca conceals them.
According to Terry, both vinca and zinnias are suitable for hot climates since they can withstand the heat.
The best assortment of zinnias may be found in catalogues like Burpee Gardens, Warminster, PA 18974 (with zinnias on the cover), and Park Seed, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001. The majority of neighborhood garden centers also carry a range of zinnia seeds.
How late may zinnia seeds be sown?
Look no further than zinnias if you’re looking to plant flowers for brilliant summer color. There are so many different zinnia kinds that it’s no wonder they’re so well-liked as cut flowers.
Zinnias can be planted outside in May, but they can also be planted indoors from February through April. Simply pick a productive, weed-free place, whether it be a hole in a fence or a patch of bare ground, and start planting.
As soon as they blossom, you may anticipate a riot of summer color that will last until the first fall frosts.
Look no further than zinnias if you’re looking to plant flowers for brilliant summer color.
Step 3
In order to identify what you are growing, label the space and thoroughly water the seeds. As seedlings start to grow, keep the soil moist but not wet and cover with a cloche.
Zinnias for pollinators
Pollinating insects, especially hoverflies, are drawn to zinnias. Grow single-flowered kinds that don’t restrict pollinator access so they can get to the pollen and nectar.
What month should zinnias be planted?
Light: Full sun is ideal for zinnia growth and flowering. Even in warmer climates with afternoon shadow, they can flower there, but they may be more prone to disease and produce fewer flowers.
Soil: Organically rich, fertile soils with good drainage are ideal for growing zinnias. Because zinnia seedlings are susceptible to rotting in cool, damp soils, having well-drained soil is crucial.
Plant zinnia seeds in rows or clusters spaced a few inches apart. Once the plant has four leaves, thin to 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Planting: Plant zinnias in the spring, just about the time you plant tomatoes, when all threat of frost has passed. Growing zinnias from seeds straight in the garden is simple. Start seeds inside four to six weeks before to your last frost date for earlier flowering.
Zinnias: Can I Plant Them In September?
A: I have a lot of zinnias, and I always collect seed to plant the following year. Then I carefully pull out the zinnias from this year to avoid contaminating the ground with too many seeds. But truly, am I being overly cautious; would any of these dropped seeds germinate the next year? Isn’t one of the benefits of annuals that they do not self-seed in our climate zone?
A: Gathering the seed for later planting is a smart idea, but I wouldn’t be concerned about any that fall to the ground. Some flowers may regrow from seeds more easily than others. A flower that “self-seeds” is seen favorably by many gardeners. In my experience, marigolds self-seed fairly consistently while zinnias struggle to do so. It is advantageous if they are discernible in the spring, in April or May, for this feature to function well. Finding seedlings might be challenging as crabgrass begins to grow and the summer heat sets in.
Is this the right time of year to plant pansies? I heard that they can occasionally overwinter. If so, do some types fare better than others in this regard?
A: Pansies are a fantastic plant to grow right now because they can withstand the winter. They won’t produce as much fall color if they are planted too late. Therefore, the best time to travel is when the temperature has cooled off or when it is about to do so; this is normally from early September to mid-October. Establishing them might be challenging in late heat, like the one we recently experienced. If they are planted too late, they might not develop strong roots before winter, which makes them more vulnerable to frost heaving out of the ground. They are less likely to survive the winter and grow quickly the following spring as a result. Adding mulch around the plants before it becomes chilly can increase their chances of surviving the winter.
Any pansy may make it through the winter. Due in part to their widespread habitat, violas are thought to be more winter-resistant.
A: This summer, I planted a number of arborvitae, however the location is somewhat exposed. The first year, should I winter guard it? How, if so?
A: I would, as the location is open to the public. Otherwise, I wouldn’t if the plants were established after this summer’s growth. In November, thoroughly cover the plants with mulch. If the soil is dry as we enter the winter, water them. Burlap can be wrapped over the foliage to protect it, but the top should remain open. Another choice is to use a product like Wilt-Pruf to spray a protectant on the foliage. Use it early in December and once more in early February. Apply when the temperature is above freezing.
A: The ideal season is in the fall. A well-established bed has plenty of reserves in the roots, so even though you might feel horrible pulling off the green fronds once September rolls around. Since asparagus has deep roots, moving it across a complete bed may be difficult. The task would be simpler with a backhoe.
I’ve seen several trees and even a few plants that appear to be under stress. Is this a result of the dry September? Is it too late to irrigate woody plants if stress is apparent for them to recover?
A: The majority of well-established shrubs and trees ought to have survived the dry spell, but woodies that had just been planted (within the past two years) need to have been watered. Some mature woodies that favor cooler or moister environments may have become drought-stressed. Of course, watering them will be beneficial. This late in the season, a recovery might not be visible, but it might have an impact on winter survival. On Sept. 17–18, there was a wide range of rainfall. There may have been a 2 inch accumulation in certain areas, and that should be enough. However, where there was only one inch or less, the soil was quite dry, so irrigation would be beneficial given the unusually late temperatures.
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