In terms of the calendar, there is no ideal time to plant bulbs. Depending on where you live and the seasonal weather, you should plant your spring bulbs at the right time of year.
Most of the more popular spring-blooming bulbs (including tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocus) need to be exposed to temperatures of 40 degrees or below for at least 12 to 14 weeks in order to break dormancy and ensure blossoming. These chilly conditions encourage bulbs to start growing roots and start producing flowers. Before the ground freezes, most spring-flowering bulbs need to be rooted in soil for a few weeks before planting.
It can be harmful to plant these bulbs too early in the fall because they might begin to sprout too soon. An early leaf growth saps a bulb’s energy, preventing it from surviving the winter and blooming in the spring. Hold wait on planting until the weather starts to cool down if your region had a lengthy summer and the temperatures are still warm at the start of fall.
The main guidelines for planting spring-blooming bulbs are as follows:
- Bulbs should be planted in late August or early September in the USDA Zones (1–4) that experience the coldest temperatures. Don’t wait until the calendar says fall has arrived to plant your bulbs.
- Zones 5 to 7 gardeners should not rely on the calendar either. Bulbs must be planted after temperatures have cooled off, especially throughout the day. In some years, September may mark the beginning of the cooling trend, while in others, October may be the month. Err on the side of caution rather than regret. If the ground hasn’t frozen, you can even plant bulbs into November and beyond.
- For the greatest results, gardeners in warmer climes, Zones 8 and higher, must buy pre-chilled bulbs. Warmer winters don’t become cold enough to provide the bulbs the necessary chilling period.
Can you plant tulips in August?
Remember that late January-planted bulbs could produce flowers with reduced size. On the other side, winter bulb planting can help to safeguard the bulbs. After planting, the ground will freeze more quickly, shielding your bulbs from hungry animals.
Cannas
A late-summer garden that is starting to wilt would benefit greatly from lush, colorful, and dramatic cannas. Every garden should be able to include a canna because cultivars can differ greatly in both their blooms and foliage. Beware of the cannabis virus.
Galtonia
Galtonia candicans will take the stage just as other flowers begin to flounder and wither. In the late summer and early fall, white, faintly fragrant flowers bloom. Grow on well-drained soil in direct sunlight.
Glory lily
Beautiful and delicate, the flame or glory lily (Gloriosa rothschildiana) is a bulb-grown climber. Visit our article on growing Gloriosa from bulbs for simple growing tips.
Cyclamen hederifolium
Cyclamen hederifolium, which should not be confused with the winter-flowering Cyclamen coum, should only be starting their late-summer and fall show in August. They can easily be grown in pots or allowed to naturalize in the ground because they are extremely hardy and shade-tolerant.
Eucomis
Exotic bulbous perennials known as eucomis can be planted in the ground or in pots and containers, however the latter option may necessitate lifting the plants for the winter. The best flowers will be encouraged by full light and good drainage, respectively.
Dierama
Dierama, also known as angel’s fishing rods, are indigenous to South Africa and have delicate blossoms and grass-like foliage similar to kniphofias and proteas. Grow them in wet, well-drained soil in full sunlight.
How far in advance can you plant tulips?
The best time to plant tulips was a question we posed to Ruth Hayes, the gardening editor of Amateur Gardening. Ruth has a plethora of knowledge thanks to her Royal Horticultural Society certification and many years of gardening experience.
She explains that the best months to grow tulips are in late fall and early winter, specifically November and December. It is too late for them to perform at their peak this year, but they should flower the following spring, so if you have any leftover from last year, you may still plant them in the soil now.
It’s not necessary too late to plant spring bulbs in January, according to Evie Lane, a gardening expert at Primrose (opens in new tab), but she emphasizes that time is of the essence. Tulips can tolerate a January planting with ease, although they will bloom later than usual, she claims.
Evie explains that tulip bulbs should generally be safely placed in the ground as least six weeks before there is a chance of a freeze. But most plants show a great tolerance for being planted in the late season. There is a strong probability that your bulbs will produce passable flowers in the late spring as long as the earth can be dug and is not soggy.
Ruth adds there are still many of chances in the upcoming months to add color to our garden later this year if you’d prefer not take a chance. Consider which plants you’d like to add to your garden, and if you’re stuck for inspiration, check out the newest garden trends for 2022.
If you’re lacking motivation, try to complete a handful of January gardening tasks each week. It’s less intimidating to walk outside and clean up the garden once you know what you’re going to be doing.
Can tulip bulbs be planted in the summer?
Tulips are spring-blooming bulbs that are dormant during the scorching summer months. This implies they are unable to establish roots during the summer’s intense heat. They detest excessive wetness as well, which stresses the bulb and makes it vulnerable to fusarium, or base rot, which makes it mold and deteriorate.
But by waiting until the fall, when the temperature is pleasant and cool, the bulbs are encouraged to form their roots and remain strong throughout the winter temps. Additionally, because they alter the physiology of the bulb, these pre-set roots are essential for absorbing extra moisture and preventing the bulbs from freezing in the winter. It changes its makeup to become more elastic, producing a nearly antifreeze-like effect that shields it from the cold and keeps it safe so it may readily bloom when springtime returns. Unfortunately, there are occasions when we may fail to plant our tulip bulbs in the fall. Is there still time to plant your bulbs for spring enjoyment, even if you neglected or didn’t have any for fall planting?
At the end of August, can you plant bulbs?
All other spring flowering bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, fritillaria, and others, can be planted in September, October, and November. Many varieties will thrive even if planted far into December, but the key is to put them as soon as there is a chance of frost so they may begin to establish roots. They are highly tolerant of frost after they have rooted.
In August, can I plant anything?
“The vegetable garden is very active in the month of August. The fifth month in a succession, I believe, that” That sentence is how the Monthly Tips and Tasks article started. Maybe you’re starting to think that there’s always something going on in the vegetable garden. Me,too. Let’s start with the gist of the August to-do list, which includes continuing to harvest vegetables, clearing out old spring and summer crops, sowing cover crops and fall crops, and, of course, weeding.
In relation to weeds, I find it amazing how they come back week after week and year after year. I frequently am asked, “Where do they come from, and why are there so many?” They can be spread by birds and other wildlife, as well as through surface water, wind, and introduction. Additionally, by applying organic materials like compost and manure, the number of weeds can be enhanced. The day I discovered that the bulk of weeds grow from seeds that gardeners themselves plant was one of my biggest gardening discoveries. Hold on, oh my! Planting weeds by gardeners? Yes, weeds replant themselves in our garden every time they are allowed to go to seed. You must be thinking by this point that it is August, it is hot, and I was perspiring just from strolling to the garden! How will a few weeds in the garden going to seed affect things? You’re going to be astonished, I assure you!
Once a garden acquaintance said, “The only survival skill some weeds lack is the ability to grow in straight rows! Additionally, they always win since they bat last; it’s as if they are the home team. Weeds’ capacity to generate a sizable seed crop is one of their many survival strategies. You ask, how aboundant? Many common weeds can generate thousands of seeds, which are then dropped to the ground. These seeds can continue to be fertile for up to 40 years or more after being added to the weed “seed vault. Simply said, a seed bank is a collection of weed seeds in the ground. Let’s examine that seed bank a little more closely.
A single weed plant has a large seed production capacity. Red pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus), which has 117,000 seeds per plant, common purslane (Portulaca oleracea), which has 52,000 seeds per plant, shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris), which has 38,000 seeds per plant, common lambsquarters (Chenopodiumalbum), which has 28,000 seeds per plant, and yellow foxtail are some examples of individual plants that produce a lot of seeds (Setaria glauca12,000).
Weed seeds have a protective shell, the capacity to lay dormant in the soil for up to 40 years or more, and the ability to produce enormous amounts of seeds for germination.
If present in the garden or seed bank, this annual collection of seeds makes weeds a formidable foe. Within two to three years under management, it is predicted that the seed bank might be reduced by 80 to 90 percent. However, one year of poor management might replenish the seed bank. Have you ever wondered where the adage about gardening came from? “Seven years of weeding equal one year of sowing. Consider the weed seed bank in the garden that is just ready to germinate! Therefore, removing those weeds from the garden before they set seed can significantly reduce the amount of weeds in subsequent years.
Regular Purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Up to 52,000 seeds can be produced by one plant. Oregon State University, in picture
Pigweed red (Amaranthusretroflexus). Up to 117,000 seeds can be produced by a single plant. Images: Maine.gov
The vegetable garden switches from late spring and summer crops to chilly weather or fall vegetables in August. When a gardener neglects to plant a fall garden, they frequently lose out on an exceptional growth season. Fresh produce can still be harvested here in central Virginia well into the fall and frequently into early winter. A fall garden gives us a second growing season as well as a second chance to plant those early spring vegetables that didn’t do well in the summer heat, no matter how neglected the summer garden appears. The time to plan and plant a fall garden is early August in central Virginia. The secret to a good fall garden is timely planting.
The Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication No. 426-334 was used to develop the planting diagram below “Growing vegetables in the fall.
Crops to Cover:
Additional Gardening Tasks and Advice for August:
- Choose semi-hardy veggies for the fall garden because they can withstand a light to moderate frost. You should also seek for vegetables that mature quickly (fewest days to harvest). The seed catalog or the seed packaging will both contain this information.
- Leafy green vegetables including lettuce, spinach, collards, kale, and mustard can be planted in August. In August, seeds can be planted for radishes, turnips, beets, and carrots. Chinese cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts can all be transplanted in August and still have time to yield a healthy crop. Ensure that the varieties of cabbage and kale you choose at the neighborhood gardening center are edible (not ornamental).
- Because they skip July, when pest activity is at its highest, fall plants frequently experience fewer insect issues. It is still necessary to be vigilant since some insects, like corn earworm and cabbageworm, may be worse late in the year than they are in the summer. Planting crops from other families than those that were initially grown in that garden area will help you avoid some pests and diseases.
- Restoring the nutrients lost by the spring and summer crops will help the soil be ready for planting fall crops. Your fall crops will receive the nutrients they require from a light coating of compost or a sparing application of an organic or complete fertilizer.
- Dry soil can make it harder to cultivate the soil and can prevent seed germination in the late summer. Vegetables for the fall season should be planted when the ground is moist following a rain or the day before planting, if you watered the area well. The seeds should be sown somewhat deeper than is advised for spring planting. Once they are planted, make sure to water them in well. To stop the soil from crusting, apply mulch or a layer of compost.
- In the heat of the late summer, preserving water requires careful watering. In order to ensure a decent yield from your mature crops, moisten the soil 6 to 8 inches deep with one inch of water per week applied all at once. Two inches of organic mulch, such as straw or leaves, will chill the soil and lessen water evaporation from the soil’s surface. So that the foliage has time to dry before dusk, water the garden in the morning. The vulnerability to fungus illnesses is increased in wet foliage at night.
- Care should be taken not to mulch over immature seedlings when doing so. In order to provide young seedlings the most sunlight possible, the mulch should be applied to the soil rather than the plants themselves.
- Pick zucchini and summer squash every day or every other day to keep the plants productive. If you’re planning a trip this month, harvest all your vegetables in advance and hire someone to harvest quickly maturing crops like squash and okra for you while you’re away lazing. If you don’t, your vegetables will mature too much and cease producing.
- As long as the tops are green, potatoes will continue to grow. Just as many as you need for now should be dug. In contrast to a warm, dry environment, the tubers will retain longer in the ground.
- Think about growing a cover crop. A cover crop, such as annual rye, prevents soil erosion throughout the winter, suppresses weed growth, improves soil structure, supplies important nutrients, and adds organic material when it is absorbed into the soil in the spring. A month or less prior to the anticipated harvest, cover crops can be planted between rows of fall vegetables. The cover crops will get a head start and won’t obstruct the development of the vegetable plants. Buckwheat can be planted as a cover crop up to 6-8 weeks before a lethal frost, which is often during the third or fourth week of October. Buckwheat will be killed by frost.
- Some pests find overripe garden vegetables to be easy prey. To avoid being discovered by pests, get rid of them as soon as you can.
- Finding it difficult to find your tools among your plants in the garden? Your garden tool handles should be painted a vivid color other than green or wrapped in a piece of bright orange surveyor’s tape.
One of the last things a vegetable grower wants to think about in the dog days of August is planting new crops. But keep an eye out for the fall garden, which will provide its own rewards in the form of a prolonged fresh vegetable harvest, cost savings on food, and the knowledge that you are making the most of your gardening space and season.
We appreciate you being with us in The Garden Shed. We hope you’ll visit us again next month.