By the time the house was organized and packed, I only had three days left to relocate plants, including the tree peonies, despite the daily forecast calling for rain. Some people might have said that by that time, their buds were the size of hens’ eggs, but I choose to believe that they were the size and form of soft-serve ice cream cones with those adorable pointy tops.
Dig around the entire plant to the drip line to start prepping it for the journey.
I just had a shovel and trash bags to wrap around the roots as I got ready for the delicate procedure.
Holding onto the plant from all sides, gently remove it from its prior location.
I carefully probed the rain-soaked, soggy earth in between downpours in an effort to prevent harming the roots and drip system. I massaged the earth on each side until the tree peony broke free, anticipating a sizable root ball to be present as well.
Rather, the roots were left exposed as the composty ground collapsed. Did I also mention that, in my haste to prepare the house, I forgot to take down the supports for the plant’s growth before it produced new foliage and stems? With nowhere else to go but with them, the metal grids were now hanging precariously between the roots and vegetation.
No matter how meticulously I worked on each tree peony, this scene kept happening. Knowing that I would have to do this all over again when planting them in their new garden the following year, I carefully placed them into the garbage bags and transported them to their new temporary residence. Upon arriving, I spent hours soaking them in water while attempting to dig holes that were the proper size without damaging the double, yes, double layers of landscaping fabric that were underneath the six inches of mulch in the rental home’s beds.
“..when the plants are dormant, in the fall or very early spring, is the perfect period for transplanting peonies.
Do peonies enjoy moving around?
Peonies can be left in the garden unattended for a long time. But on occasion, it’s important to relocate established plants. To improve flowering, move peonies that are sheltered by tall trees or shrubs to a sunny location. The peony may need to be relocated in order to redesign a perennial bed or border. Plants that are large and robust can be dug up and divided for further growth.
The ideal month for transplanting established peonies is September. Cut the peony stems at or just above ground level to start. Next, thoroughly excavate each plant’s perimeter and its base. Keep as much of the root system as you can. Replant the peony right away in a sunny, well-drained area.
Large peony clumps must be divided in a number different ways. Shake the clump carefully to remove any loose soil from the root system after you’ve dug up the plant. Section off the cluster using a big knife. Each division needs to establish a strong root system and at least three to five buds (eyes). Smaller divisions will take longer to mature into beautiful plants.
The optimal conditions for peonies are full light and well-drained soil. Choose an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day when choosing a planting site. Avoid standing in the shade next to big trees and plants. Compost, peat moss, or leaf mold used in significant quantities can typically improve poorly drained soils.
When planting a peony, make sure the hole is big enough to fit the plant’s root system comfortably. With the buds one to two inches below the soil’s surface, place the peony plant in the hole. (Peonies frequently don’t bloom successfully if the buds are deeper than two inches.) As you backfill the hole, compact the soil around the plant as you fill it with soil. then thoroughly rinse. Peonies should be spaced three to four feet apart.
Apply a four to six inch layer of mulch over the newly planted peonies in the late fall (mid-November to early December). Pine needles and weed-free straw are great mulching materials. Mulching keeps the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing in the winter, which could lift the plants out of the ground. Early in the spring, before growth starts, remove the mulch.
Peonies that were transplanted might not bloom well the first spring. However, by the third or fourth year, the number of flowers should increase quickly.
When is it okay to relocate a peony?
Herbaceous paeonies are the only bloom that truly reflects the gentleness of the early summer. They are robust and gorgeous at every stage, providing years of enjoyment. With careful selection, you may keep peonies in bloom for at least 4 to 5 weeks until their lavish coppery foliage takes over. The idea that they cannot be relocated is a complete misconception. Pliny the Elder, a Roman naturalist who was in awe of this potent panacea, maintained this urban legend that dates back to the first century AD. The Ancients, who were dazzled by the peony’s magical abilities, didn’t want to abuse them and face the repercussions thus they named the plant after Paeon, the gods’ physician.
Variety guide
The May-flowering cottage garden peonies (types of Paeonia officinalis), which had ephemeral flowers that dropped their petals within days, fading as they went, are a good example of the need of choosing good varieties. Choose the options indicated here rather than these “short times.” There are early, mid, and late kinds of these that will offer you at least three weeks of flowering. Any variant with a solitary flower will bloom earlier and be more tolerant of the shadow.
A fragrant Chinese species known as Paeonia lactiflora was imported into Europe around the end of the 18th century. French nurserymen recognized the potential right away and started breeding, providing numerous cut flowers to Paris’ magnificent residences. Because of this, several of our greatest peonies have 150-year-old French names. Particularly when it comes to softer pinks, creamy whites, and deeper pinks, these industry veterans continue to be the best. They have shown to be durable and garden-worthy by persisting for such a long time.
Without the lemon-scented, light cream “Duchesse de Nemours,” created by Calot in 1856, no garden is complete. The yellow tint of the globular flowers softens them in the garden environment. Moreover, the foliage is greener than usual. One of the best three herbaceous peonies in the entire world, I believe. ‘Festiva Maxima’ (Miellez 1851) is another excellent cultivar with buds that open pale pink, suffuse to creamy white, and display an annual variation in the strength of a red flash. Additionally, it has a robust stem and is aromatic.
Because they were developed in China (and Japan), two countries where summer rainfall occurs in large spurts, these big-headed peony can withstand summer rain. Strong plant supports are recommended, or you can use canes and string when the blooms are fully opened because they will swoon when they get wet. By the time the stems are 30 cm tall, both should be in position. The totally double apple-blossom pink peony “Sarah Bernhardt” (Lemoine 1906) needs to be staked to keep the petals from flopping. Despite still being widely grown and valued, it has weak stems.
‘Monsieur Jules Elie’ (Crousse 1888) features a rose-pink cup full of divided petals in the same rose-pink if you prefer your peonies less full and hefty than the Japanese do. Hoogendoorn developed the Dutch variety “Bowl of Beauty” in 1949; it features a fuchsia-pink cup with creamy thin petals inside. The complete blush-white variety “Shirley Temple” (breeder unknown) falls in between full French doubles and petal-filled cups.
In contrast to the conventional French pinks and creams, American breeders wanted more vibrant colors. They crossed the earlier flowering P. officinalis cottage garden peony with another variety to produce a deep red. “Buckeye Belle” is the greatest of all (bred by Walter Mains of Ohio in 1956). It contributes to extending the peony season by blooming two weeks earlier than the lactiflora hybrids. The mahogany-red inner petals of the semi-double red flowers contain a tint of black, which makes the golden boss of stamens glow. The phrase “Buckeye Belle” gained notoriety in 2009 at Chelsea through to Luciano Giubbilei’s usage of it in his renowned Laurent-Perrier Garden, designed by Crocus. In the garden, he pairs beautifully with smokey fennel (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Giant Bronze’). Buckeye Belle, a slow fuse plant, received the Award of Landscape Merit in 2009 and the American Peony Society Gold Medal in 2010.
‘Coral Charm’ (Wissing 1964), another American breeding innovation, glows from peach to a sunset orange. It was developed using the red P. peregrina cultivar “Otto Froebel,” and it clashes with the more conventional pink, cream, crimson, and deep-pink peonies. It prefers a warmer environment as well and can be planted with blues like Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ or with a swath of Carex testacea, a sedge with fine-tined, honey-colored leaves.
Perfect partners
Because both have early-year foliage that is copper-red, peonies and roses go well together. Rose and peony borders benefit greatly from the fragrant, lily-flowered tulip ‘Ballerina’. This well-liked tulip has warm-orange flowers that bloom in late April when the peony and rose foliage is still new and vivid. The reddish pink peony “Karl Rosenfield” contrasts beautifully with the bluest rose of all, “Rhapsody in Blue,” especially when combined with Nepeta “Six Hills Giant.”
The light-pink “Bonica” rose could be another healthy rose mate. Even though it barely grows to a height of slightly more than 3′ (up to 1m), it is one of the best roses for poorer soils. You can plant the pillar rose “Aloha” on a tripod or the 2013 Rose of the Year, “You’re Beautiful,” which is clean and bushy with gorgeous sugar-pink blossoms. This rose has large petals and will bloom all summer and into the fall. Its salmon-pink overtones will wonderfully contrast with the bronzed leaves.
Growing guide
Peonies should be moved in October, when dormancy is only starting. Replanting the hefty tubers at 5 cm beneath the surface of the soil is the key to success. Any further and they will mope around forever. Peonies can also be divided in October, but larger clumps can produce up to 40 flowers if left unattended. Although it will offer you more plants, division is not required.
These extremely hardy perennials do best in fertile soil that holds moisture and can withstand freezing winters. Additionally, they benefit from a feed, and Vitax Q4 pellets are great for peony and many other plants. Vitax Q4 should be given in April to moist soil if at all possible. When planting organic matter, such as well-rotted compost, if your garden is on lighter soil, add it. After feeding, immediately cover damp soil with bark, but never cover dry soil. Like all tuberous plants, peonies detest wintertime soil that is too wet or heavy. Trim the stems as they wilt in the autumn and remove any wilted leaves you spot along the way. Peonies prefer bright light.
Propagation
Before splitting up huge clumps, wait until the autumn foliage has died back. Lift the plant, chop through the roots with a clean, sharp knife, and check that each area of the crown has at least four or five dormant buds. After the plant has been out of the ground for a few hours, it may be simpler to work with. After applying a fungicidal powder to the wounds, plant the divisions’ buds 5 cm below the soil’s surface.
Pests and diseases
There are a several illnesses that could harm your peonies, but peony blight is the most prevalent of them all. This normally occurs more frequently in damp weather and results in the top growth turning dark brown and wilting. By using a proper fungicide or by making sure that any infected growth is quickly removed and dead foliage is removed in the fall, it is readily handled.
Can you split up a tree peony?
Grafting is the main technique used to propagate tree peony. It takes a lot of time and effort to complete this treatment. Your favorite tree peony may be multiplied much more easily by division. This method is comparable to that used to divide herbaceous peonies.
Not all tree peony make suitable division candidates. Only those that have their own roots growing in them will be able to successfully divide. It is NOT recommended to separate tree peony with just one or two primary trunks. A tree peony with this type of growth pattern probably depends on a sizable grafted herbaceous peony nurse root and is not growing on its own roots.
Also, keep in mind that tree peony develop slowly before opting to try to divide an older, well-established plant. Before divisions reach the splendor of a mother plant’s peak bloom, many years will pass. Having stated that, let’s start chopping!
This tree peony’s two main trunks make it an unlikely candidate for division. In this instance, it’s even feasible that the plant is still dependent on its grafted herbaceous understock and isn’t even growing from its own roots. Using this form to split a plant may not produce any viable divisions.
At the base, you’ll notice a lot of strong stems. This is a sign of a root system that spreads outward.
Remove the leaves from a peony before digging it up. Dig around the plant’s drip line to start.
After a little soil has been worked loose, take some by hand from the base. This will aid in releasing the roots from the soil.
Do some additional digging around the plant. Be patient; strong divisions require healthy roots. Digging hastily and carelessly can easily break roots.
The plant should just slip out of the earth with a little gentle prying once enough soil has been removed.
Since most tree peony are grafted, it is likely that even a well established plant will experience problems.
will keep both its own roots and the original herbaceous graft root. In this image
Both are readily apparent. In contrast to the tree peony, the herbaceous graft root is black and bulbous.
We prefer to give the plant a few hours to “relax.” We apply damp burlap to the roots after wetting the roots. The roots become slightly less brittle and less likely to break throughout the division process as a result of the modest drying that is permitted.
An old, large kitchen knife and a solid pair of garden snips are the two major tools you’ll need. Before beginning, make sure to clean your tools with isopropyl alcohol. Through the wounds you will make, this sterilization will stop pathogenic germs and fungi from spreading.
Remove the herbaceous nurse root if it’s still there before starting the divisions.
The old herbaceous peony nursing root can be thrown away once it has been removed. Or you could try planting it again. It’s possible that it will start to develop little, previously dormant buds. If you do this, you should plan on having to wait a few years before your new herbaceous peony blooms.
You can now begin dividing. The first step is to determine where the plant appears to organically divide. You can now picture the cuts you will need to make. A division needs sufficient roots as well as buds for above-ground growth in order to be viable.
Search for naturally occurring divisions with what appear to be strong stems and roots. Keep an eye out for the fresh tree peony branches that are emerging from the plant’s crown. Take cautious not to harm these.
It’s frequently advisable to try chopping the plant in half first. At this point, you might need to summon a helper.
You can decide to divide your plant as much as possible, or you might just wish to cut it in half.
Cutting through the plant’s hard, woody top will undoubtedly be necessary for any division that goes beyond a simple split. Keep your assistant nearby to assist with this as well.
Clean up your divisions after you’re satisfied with them. Remove root pieces that have turned black and trim ragged cuts.
We advise cutting back the top growth by as much as 1/3 to make sure the above-ground buds won’t place an undue pressure on the roots.
Remove all of the woody top growth from extremely small divisions with weak roots in favor of fresh, robust buds.
The outcome is:
There are several scions to graft, including three giant plants, one medium, two small, and one very small. Replant any fresh divisions right away. The plant will take longer to adapt to its new environment if the roots dry out.