The catmint plant’s seeds or divisions are sown in the spring. They need a lot of room as well and should be placed at least a foot (31 cm) apart (or thinner). Particularly in hot, humid conditions, overcrowding of plants can result in leaf spot or powdery mildew.
Some varieties of catmint plants can grow aggressively, therefore it is important to use caution when planting them. So, you could want to add some edging to the area around them. Catmint can also be planted and raised in containers.
Catmint in pots—is it good?
Catmint, like most types of mint, does just fine when grown in containers. It’s actually encouraged. Planting it in a container will help keep it controlled because it can spread invasively. Planting this tough herb in pots works just nicely.
What size pot should I use for catmint?
You should use a pot that is at least 8 inches wide and 8 inches deep to plant your catnip. In case your cat accidentally gets inside the plant and knocks it to the ground, it’s best to stay away from breakable materials like clay.
Does catmint like shade or the sun?
- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
How should a potted catnip plant be cared for?
Introduction: Cats adore catnip, and growing it on a balcony is simple and a wonderful treat for your feline friends. If you don’t grow catnip in its own plant container, it can spread across the yard and become an invasive weed. Catnip can reach heights of three to four feet and resembles mint (it also belongs to the mint family). Small, white flowers with purple streaks bloom on this herb. Bees, butterflies, and some birds will be attracted by its blossoms. Check out these 10 Cute Cats in the Garden (Photos) before learning how to plant catnip!
Give your catnip some well-draining potting soil, and give it water on a regular basis. Never let the soil become saturated, just damp.
Pests and Illnesses: Spider mites and whiteflies are two examples of insect pests. Your catnip plants shouldn’t be susceptible to any diseases, although mildew can be an issue.
Plant seeds in the spring, and they will sprout within 5 to 10 days. Although you can harvest flower seeds, the plant will self-seed and return to the same location year after year. You can also divide the roots or take cuttings to proliferate.
Keep your catnip plant pruned for neat growth and appearance. Your cat may enjoy a treat made from the trimmed pieces. Gather your catnip and let it dry. After that, store it somewhere cool and dark until you have enough to stitch together your own DIY cat toy!
Catmint vs. Catnip
Which is better, catnip or catmint? Plant common names can be confusing, especially when they sound so similar. Nepeta cataria, a widespread member of the mint family with white flowers that can be found all over the United States, particularly in disturbed areas, is known as catnip. These low-growing plants are a favorite among cats, and dried leaf cat toys are known to drive cats crazy.
On the other hand, catmint, another member of the mint family, is a stunning decorative plant that is hardy and flexible but is not as well-liked by domestic cats.
Walker’s Low Catmint: Nearly Perfect
Nepeta faassenii, often known as Walker’s Low catmint, has long served as the benchmark catmint in western gardens. In May, mounds of glistening periwinkle blue flowers begin to open, continuing for one to two months.
The blooms are a haven for hummingbirds, moths, butterflies, and bees, but deer and rabbits appear to avoid them. Catmints are nearly ideal plants since they can withstand drought, bloom for a long time, and withstand our harsh weather.
That is, almost flawless, barring two aspects. The weight of the blooms eventually causes the stalks to drop, opening and flattening the plant’s core, which causes all catmints to flop out a little after blooming.
The majority of catmints found at garden centers are fertile, which means that after blooming and receiving pollinator fertilization, they set viable seeds that disperse throughout the garden and result in an abundance of seedlings growing. Free seedlings are occasionally appreciated (especially those of such a lovely plant), but they are frequently an annoyance.
One more warning: Walker’s Low isn’t actually that “low.” Walker’s Low has a height range of 24 to 30 inches, which is quite low compared to Six Hills Giant, the previous benchmark for garden catmints, which reaches a height of 3 feet. Walker’s Low is actually not as low as its name suggests considering how little it is!
Little Trudy: Compact and Not a Spreader
Try Little Trudy catmint if you want a catmint with a neater appearance, one that stays compact and is more suited for small gardens, or one that won’t seed itself.
Before being released by Plant Select in 2008, Little Trudy was found at Little Valley Wholesale Nursery in Brighton, Colorado, and tested at Colorado State University and the Denver Botanic Gardens. It begins to bloom in the late spring and will continue to softly blossom all summer long. When crushed, the tiny, grey-green leaves release a pleasant scent.
Wildlife benefits: Pollinators such as moths, bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are drawn to stalks of small, purple-blue blooms.
Growing advice: If desired, prune back the first heavy flush of blooms; a second full flush will occur later in the summer.
Nepeta can be grown in pots, right?
Catmint should be grown in raised beds or sunny borders with well-draining soil. Although spring or fall are the best periods to plant, you may purchase potted plants at any time of the year.
Is a deep pot necessary for catnip?
Catnip requires moderate water, full light, and soil that drains well. Outdoor plants are generally less finicky than indoor plants, which appear to need more sunshine. In locations with limited light, the herb can grow to be rather tall and tends to be lanky. To avoid lanky stems that branch out in all directions, provide plenty of light and pinch back early growth.
When putting catnip in a pot, use potting soil that is permeable. Additionally, you can create your own using an equal mixture of perlite, peat, and soil. When catnip plants have two sets of genuine leaves, they can be transplanted from flats. Place seeds in flats with slightly wet soil, cover, and wait for germination.
Keep apartments in a warm, sunny area. Without being pinched, mature plants can grow as tall as a few feet (61 cm) and have a large root system. When transplanting becomes essential, use deep containers to accommodate future development.
Is it simple to grow catmint?
One of my favorite plants is nepeta, sometimes called catmint. Of course, cats are particularly fond of catnip, one of its constituents. Consider the old proverb “If you set it, the cats will eat it” if you’re having difficulties keeping your catnip or catmint plants alive in the garden. The cats are unaware that you sow it. Cats appear to ignore catnip seeds but adore transplants. But enough about Felix—discuss let’s catmint’s lovely qualities instead!
Catmint is robust, simple to grow, and resistant to deer and rabbits. Early in the summer, the flowers with hues of white, pink, or lavender blue emerge from the grey-green foliage. After blossoming, if you cut it back, it will produce more blooms later in the summer. The floppy, untamed habit of the 2-foot-tall plant is possible. As a result, it thrives when spilling over a wall, sprawling beneath a rose, or stepping in between other perennials that have received better care. Some more recent types, such “Cats’ Meow” and “Purrsian Blue,” only reach heights of 12 to 18 inches, maintain a more upright posture, and produce sterile seeds, making them less prone to spread like weeds in your garden.
Grow Catmint
Neglect is ideal for catmint. A lot of lengthy, frail foliage with few flowers is the result of adding too much water, compost, or fertilizer. To produce more catmints, you can divide the plants in the early spring, although it’s not necessary. It will cheerfully bloom every year and gradually get bigger over time.
Catmint can be cultivated indoors, right?
Catmint is fairly simple to grow both indoors and outdoors and doesn’t require much maintenance. It needs full sun, infrequent blooming, moderately cool temperatures, organic soil that is slightly acidic and well-draining, and routine pruning. You do not need to worry about how frequently you should water this plant because it can withstand droughts fairly well.
How could you possibly resist these fascinating and beautiful plants? Catmint plants need to be added to your garden as soon as possible if you count yourself among the fortunate owners of a cat (or more). When your cat approaches them, they will bring you everyday enjoyment because they are vibrant and minty-fragrant.
From Seed
Four to eight weeks prior to the last frost date, seeds can be started inside. Seeds should be barely covered in potting mix when placed in three- or four-inch pots.
Maintain moisture for two to three weeks until seedlings appear, and then place the pots in bright light until they have at least two sets of genuine leaves.
Additionally, you can directly plant seeds outside before the first fall frost or in the spring following the last frost.
By chilling stratifying seeds in the freezer for a whole night and then soaking them in water for 12 to 24 hours before planting, you can increase germination.
Garden soil and an inch of organic matter should be prepared for a garden bed or container. Since light promotes germination in these plants, scatter the seeds on top, just covering them.
For two to three weeks, until sprouts grow, lightly water the plant and keep moist. Seedlings should be spaced around 18 inches apart.
Not all nepeta species can be started from seed, which should be noted. Some plants, like Faassen’s catmint, can only be multiplied through division or from cuttings since they are sterile. Fortunately, doing this is simple.
By Division
Although it’s ideal to avoid dividing plants in the heat of the summer, if you have established plants available, divisions are likely the simplest and fastest technique of propagating new plants. These can be taken at any time during the growth season.
Locate a portion of an established plant with a strong, mature root system, cut it off from the rest of the plant using a garden spade, and carefully dig it up.
The entire plant can alternatively be dug up, divided into pieces, and then each piece is planted separately in the garden or in a container.
Can catmint be reduced in amount?
Catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 38) has a way of lifting my mood. This plant impresses me because it can stand out in even the most hostile circumstances, whether it’s along a cobbled walk in England or in the median planters that line Chicago boulevards. Over the course of several weeks in the summer, the beautiful lavender-blue blossoms appear to shine just as brilliantly in the garden as they do above a hard expanse of concrete and macadam. The easiest catmint delight for me, however, is seeing my cat Boo fall prey to its seductive charm.
Despite the fact that some varieties have been misused to the point of ubiquity, I have a lasting affection for catmint. And it was because of this affection that I wanted to try as many different kinds as I could in order to determine which ones were the greatest. It’s true that when catmints are mentioned, many gardening buddies scrunch up their faces. Now, while I freely acknowledge that I won’t mind if catmint and Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Radrazz’, Zones 49) never see another planting, I’m not quite ready to give up on this wonderful collection of hardy perennials. This is particularly true of a few particular varieties that stand out for their durability, seemingly endless blooms, and attractive leaves.
Top performers
In terms of bloom time, general habit, disease resistance, and low maintenance requirements, these types were picked as the best.
The most well-liked plant in this genus is undoubtedly “Walker’s Low” (N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’, top photo), based on its popularity and the numerous prizes it has won. Walker’s Low is taller than one might anticipate at 30 inches. The name does not represent its size; rather, it relates to the garden in Ireland where it first appeared. One of the most magnificent floral displays ever is produced by luminous blue blossoms that are carried in upward-curving plumes up to 12 inches long. The attractive gray-green leaves are completely hidden by the flowers for several weeks when they are in full bloom in late April. Walker’s Low pairs beautifully with a range of perennials and is essential for softening sharp edges along patios and paths. In my garden, “Walker’s Low” and Japanese roof iris are a favorite combination (Iris tectorum, Zones 59). I adore the way the delicate, billowy catmint contrasts with the broad, spiky iris leaves, as well as the color echo of the lavender-blue blossoms.
The flower and foliage of “Sweet Dreams” (N. subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams’) are a welcome change from those of other catmints. From early summer to late fall, charming pink blooms are arranged in generous clusters and tastefully complemented with burgundy bracts. By catmint standards, each trumpet-shaped blossom is 1 inch long, which is quite large. The lush green foliage will surprise you if you assume this is simply another catmint with gray-green leaves, especially when it turns colorful in the fall. Despite being a large plant, “Sweet Dreams” remains compact throughout summer. In contrast to other catmints, Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.), such as “Sweet Dreams,” like wet soils and partial shade, though they are equally comfortable in full sun. However, deadheading is necessary to prevent “Sweet Dreams” from having a nightmare appearance after the first flush of blooms since the brown, spent flowers persist.
When great gardeners are honored with magnificent plants, it is lovely. Such a plant is called “Joanna Reed” (N. ‘Joanna Reed’), after the late Pennsylvania gardener who discovered it. One of the neatest catmints I’ve ever produced, and this quality secured a perfect score in our testing. It didn’t require deadheading because of its sturdy stems, which never flopped, and because new growth appeared swiftly to cover the wilting flower stems. I find it impossible to imagine “Joanna Reed” without blooms because of the constant display of huge violet-blue flowers that cover the wide-spreading, compact plants from spring into October. Many catmints boast about the attractiveness and unpalatability of their dusty green foliage.
Greek catmint (N. parnassica), according to a short internet search, is more popular in European gardens, but it’s still worthwhile to look for this rare beauty here. Greek catmint is robust and audacious. However, the stems of our test plants only grew to a maximum height and width of 4 feet. Stems up to 6 feet tall are possible. The tint of the fragrant leaves lies midway between green and gray-green. Beginning in early summer and continuing into early October, long spikes of tiny lavender blooms, each less than half an inch long, are densely populated. Greek catmint has the presence to dominate any garden and will cheerfully take all the sunlight you can throw at it.
I believe the catmint “Six Hills Giant” (N. “Six Hills Giant”) is the standard by which all other catmints should be measured. The word “giant” is used to indicate the massive plant size and the extravagant floral display. Long flower spikes attract attention starting in late spring. However, like many catmints, ‘Six Hills Giant’ may start to relax or even recline a few weeks into the flowering period. This was true in our testing. After the initial flower flush, don’t be afraid to bash it back to promote the growth of new, stronger stems. Although it may be difficult to consider giving up blossoms, there will be many more to come. For the ideal display, place “Six Hills Giant” next to virtually anything pink in the garden.
Select Blue (N. faassenii ‘Select Blue’), chosen for its blue flowers, is a superior addition to the group of long-blooming catmints. From midspring to midfall, I don’t think we experienced a day without flowers. The flowers are actually lavender with a darker calyx that gives them a swarthy appearance, despite claims that they are a darker blue than the straight species (N. faassenii). Late during the season, the low, mounded habit remained solid without shearing. For its tenacity and resistance to drought, the xeriscape specialists at High Country Gardens in New Mexico advise “Select Blue,” and we can vouch for its impressive performance in typical garden settings as well.
Getting down to the nitty-gritty of catmint
Catmints are tough, free-flowering perennials that typically like full sun and well-drained soils for growth. However, some are well-liked for xeriscaping because, once established, they can withstand drought. When lavenders are not hardy, they are often referred to as “poor man’s lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 59), which is an acceptable analogy. Here are some additional details concerning this category of plants that you should be aware of.
Catmints are incredibly floriferous from early spring to the end of the growing season. Their unique tubular, two-lipped blossoms identify them as belonging to the mint family. Even when the flowers have faded, colorful calyces still improve the floral arrangement.
Through slicing off a piece of an established clump with a spade, you can proliferate by spring division. There should be numerous young shoots and a sizable root system in each fresh division. Catmint cuttings will take root quickly if they are cut from healthy shoots before the flower buds appear. The cuttings should take several weeks to root if you place them in a moist medium like sand or a peat-perlite mixture.
An essential oil found in the leaves and stems causes cats to exhibit a range of behavioral reactions. Eating the leaves may have calming effects, while rubbing, licking, or biting them creates a momentary high. According to all accounts, cats are especially intoxicated by catmint, or catnip (N. cataria*). You unfortunately have limited options for preventing cats from mauling (and occasionally squashing) your plants. Although most plants will recover fast following an attack, barriers may be your only alternative.
Although Japanese catmints (N. subsessilis and cvs.) prefer moist soils and don’t mind partial shade, wet or soggy areas can be the death knell for most catmints. Catmints frequently appear on lists of deer-resistant plants because they are rarely troubled by disease or pests.
It’s simple to ignore the leaves when there are so many blooms to catch your attention. Many catmint species are known for their fuzzy, gray-green leaves, although some, like Siberian catmint (N. sibirica), have huge, green leaves instead. Finding it difficult to tell if something is catmint? Another distinguishing characteristic of the mint family is square stems.
High fertility merely promotes floppy behavior. Simply shear the older stems down to the young leaves coming from the crown when stems start to flop over and flower output begins to decline. Plants that have been sheared will recover in a few weeks and resume their natural appearance.
Catmint should only be pruned in the spring or once you are certain that the growing season has ended, as it can be ugly in the winter. Even late in the growing season, cutting it back stimulates it to resprout, and the new growth is cold-sensitive. Any potential winter damage is avoided by waiting until spring.