“For Mother’s Day, my daughter handed me a lovely hydrangea. It has done so wonderfully that I’m curious if I should plant it outside or keep it within as a houseplant.”
Hydrangeas with foil encircling the pot, whether they were a gift or something you bought yourself, frequently differ from those bought at a nursery. The foil-wrapped hydrangea is often grown for a single, grand performance. The plant has been specifically fed to produce a lot of huge blooms quickly, frequently at the price of the plant’s long-term health.
The hydrangeas selected for this project are exclusively grown in greenhouses and might not be winter hardy where they are purchased.
If your locale isn’t warm enough to cultivate hydrangeas outdoors, you might wonder if you can grow them indoors as a houseplant.
A. There are a variety of reasons why growing hydrangeas inside in a home environment is not particularly successful. When hydrangeas may experience a period of dormancy brought on by chilly weather, they thrive. Hydrangeas rarely blossom indoors, attract insects, and lose their leaves unless they are in a greenhouse. They frequently dry out too rapidly and wilt, which makes them weaker.
However, some gift/florist-type hydrangeas may be grown extremely well in the landscape, as you can see from the images below.
Although growing hydrangeas indoors is not the optimal answer, it is conceivable if one lives in an apartment or in an area where they cannot survive:
1) Put the hydrangea in the coolest part of your house; ideally, an unheated room.
2) Position it close to a window so that it receives the most light possible.
The third and most crucial tip is to not overwater the plant by letting it sit in water or by watering it too frequently. It’s preferable to keep it dry during the winter, but it shouldn’t ever get too dry that it wilts.
Whenever possible, it is ideal to plant the potted hydrangea outside. It should only be planted outside in the early to mid-summer because it needs time to get used to the weather before winter.
In conclusion, unless it may be planted in the garden, foil-wrapped hydrangeas are best employed as a temporary plant in a person’s home.
Are hydrangeas grown indoors and outside different from one another?
Remove any foil wrapping from the hydrangea if it was a gift. Remember that hydrangeas offered for sale around the holidays might not be hardy enough to endure indoors. If you’re serious about growing hydrangeas indoors, your chances of success may be higher if you buy them from a nursery or greenhouse.
Place the hydrangea in a sizable pot filled with superior potting soil. Put the plant in an area with lots of light. Hydrangeas planted outside can take some mild shadow, but interior plants require lots of light (but not intense, direct sunlight).
When the plant is blooming, give your potted hydrangea indoor plant periodic waterings, being cautious not to overwater. After blooming, reduce watering but never let the potting soil go completely dry. If at all feasible, use distilled water or rainwater to hydrate potted hydrangea houseplants because tap water frequently contains chlorine and other pollutants.
If the air inside is dry, use a humidifier or put the plant on a humidity tray. Particularly when flowering, hydrangea thrive in a cool environment with temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees F (10 and 16 degrees C). The environment is probably too warm if the leaves start to get brown and crunchy around the edges.
Keep heat sources and drafts away from the plant. While the plant is blooming, feed it once a week with a water-soluble fertilizer that has been diluted to half strength. After that, limit feedings to to one monthly.
It is advised to give hydrangeas a time of hibernation in the fall and winter when growing them as houseplants. Place the plant in a room that isn’t heated and is about 45 degrees Fahrenheit warmer (7 C.). To keep the plant from wilting, the potting mixture should be kept on the dry side but only lightly watered when necessary.
Can I put my hydrangea plant in a pot outside?
You’ll be relieved to learn that winter maintenance needs little work. The best place for your hydrangeas to spend the winter is outside, so now that you’ve put them inside the garage, you may carry them back there.
Hydrangeas are quite cold hardy, thus in the majority of hardiness zones you may leave them on your patio unprotected. Some people can survive in zone 2, where it can reach as chilly as -40 C, perfectly well! Ouch. Although they can all withstand a certain amount of cold, each hydrangea has a different tolerance, so be sure you have a variety that is suitable for your region. Additionally, zone up if you are planting in a container! (See underneath.)
Make sure the containers they’re placed in have enough drainage, as the plants can suffer major harm from inadequate drainage. If not, your hydrangeas will flourish just fine and require the same upkeep and attention as they would in a garden.
Zone up those container plants
Zone up for success if you intend to grow a perennial in a pot! Your plants are less protected from the cold in a container than they would be on the ground. So, for instance, if you are in zone 4, I would advise choosing a plant species that is hardy to zone 3.
Can you grow hydrangeas in pots?
Our greenhouse is loaded with lovely potted Hydrangea plants before Easter and Mother’s Day. These are great gifts, but many people worry if it’s feasible to store them and plant them in the landscape later because they are produced in a greenhouse and are in flower months before their normal blooming season when grown outdoors. Here are a few success suggestions:
- On Cape Cod, the majority of hydrangeas offered as gift plants are hardy. They will develop flower buds in August, just as regular Hydrangea macrophylla, and those buds will bloom the following summer. If wintertime temperatures fall below 10 degrees, these buds are susceptible to damage from the cold. As a result, these will have less blossoming in the summer following a cold winter, just like all of our pink and blue hydrangeas.
- Hydrangea plants in pots dry out rapidly. The hardest part of keeping them indoors in April and May is doing this. The best course of action is to move your greenhouse Hydrangea as soon as possible into a little bigger container. Make sure the pot you use has a drainage hole and is about an inch larger on all sides. Fill in the gaps with fresh potting soil, but don’t pack it in too tightly. Squeezing the air out of the openings will prevent the roots from growing and will also prevent the water from flowing.
- After repotting, keep your hydrangea in a sunny area, but avoid placing it at the window with the most sunlight. The ideal window is one that faces east. Additionally, plants will flourish if they are placed close to but not directly in a southern or western window.
- If the soil on your hydrangea starts to feel dry, water it right away to prevent drooping. Keeping the pot submerged in water for more than an hour could result in the roots rotting.
- Put your hydrangea outside in part shade at the end of May, then bring it inside at night for a week. Place your Hydrangea after that week in a location that will provide morning sun and afternoon shade. Don’t let its current tiny size deceive you; most Hydrangea shrubs grow at least four feet high and wide.
In our naturally acidic soils, red-toned Hydrangea blossoms will turn a dark purple or blue. The blossoms will continue to be red or pink if the soil is still alkaline.
Even though these hydrangeas were produced in a greenhouse, they should develop and bloom the following year provided the correct conditions during the winter.
Long-term, hydrangeas are not the best indoor plants. However, if you reside in a region where winter lows often drop below 5 degrees, you can plant these in pots and overwinter them in a garage or another warm location where temps won’t fall much below 30 degrees. Don’t worry, they will start to leaf out in the garage in March. Just remember to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and move the plants outside once the risk of frost has passed. Ideally, they should bloom in late June or early July. When you set the pot outside for the summer, fertilize with an equal mixture of Osmocote and Holly-tone or Flower-tone (one tablespoon each per pot).
Can a floral hydrangea be planted?
A local florist gave me a lovely hydrangea plant for Mother’s Day, and they said I could plant it outside. I am aware that some plants available at this time of year are not hardy. Is there a method for me to determine whether this plant will survive outside?
A: Since I’m unsure of the specifics of what the florist sold you, I’ll take a chance and give you a broad response.
The majority of florist hydrangeas can be planted in your garden because they are “cautiously hardy” in this zone. Please keep in mind, though, that these plants were forced into bloom in preparation for this occasion. They were raised in greenhouses with controlled temperatures, humidity levels, amounts of water and light, and fertilizer feedings. The majority can be grown outside effectively once they get over the forcing and adjust to our climate.
Slowly acclimatize your plant to the outside as the weather warms up. Bring the potted plant outside gradually, and while doing so, set it in a spot with some partial sun. Water it frequently. In case the nights are chilly, bring it indoors.
After adjusting, plant it in the garden where it will remain. This should be a location with plenty of water and filtered sun, not blazing sun. Plan to water a hydrangea in dry weather, but add a layer of mulch at the base of the plant to help reduce water loss. An extra-large planting hole and well-adjusted soil are beneficial. If the plant appears to be pot-bound, gently loosen the dirt in the container as you plant.
Treat your new plant as you would an established one after planting. Keep in mind that hydrangeas shouldn’t be pruned until right after flowering. During the winter, the plant can also require protection during the below-freezing days.
I have four to five sizable hydrangea bushes, all of which were created from cuttings of a single Easter hydrangea plant that I had purchased several years earlier from a store.
I’m confident that your hydrangea planting will flourish, and every time it blooms you’ll be reminded of the giver in a good way.
A: Yesterday, I observed a powdery gray residue on the bark of a Tuscan cherry tree in our side yard that has never yielded fruit and may be removed by scraping. Do you have any advice on what it is and how to treat it when I spray it with soapy water?
Try the Green Cure product. It’s secure. It is potassium carbonate, a substance that is utilized in food. Every few weeks, spray it on to remove the mold. You won’t need to be concerned about any planted food crops in the interim. Just hours after spraying, you can pick surrounding food crops.
I haven’t noticed Green Cure in my neighborhood, but you can find out more details and costs on the Charlie’s Greenhouse Supplies website.
Take care not to damage the tree’s bark. More secure than scraping is spraying. Alternately, you might use a gentle brush or terry cloth to remove mold.
A: Spring arrived early, so instead of following your suggestion regarding the forsythia, I pruned and replanted. My fig tree is showing signs of growth after spending the winter in the basement. This year, I really hope I get some figs!
A: Although you may lose some flowers the following season, you haven’t harmed the forsythia or any flowering shrubs by transplanting them at the wrong time. The benefits of a new growth environment occasionally outweigh the need to sacrifice the blossoms, and the timing of the transplant may be best for you rather than the plant. When you can, do it!
Fig trees that spent the winter in cellars and on chilly porches are now displaying fresh growth. My fig, which was horribly mistreated this past winter, has approximately a dozen figs and has shown some leaf growth. I should possibly make Fig Newtons!
What kind of pine tree grows the quickest in the climate of northern Maine? Four or five trees would be nice to plant. When I retire in seven to ten years, I plan to live in a sizable retirement home up there.
A: Consider some Thuja Green Giants for zones 3-5. You can buy them from nearby or mail-order nurseries, and you don’t have to buy the biggest, priciest ones to have the screening you need right away for a planting that will take seven to ten years.
Without shearing, Thuja “Green Giants” develop into towering, dense columns. Set them up as a barrier screen 5 to 6 feet apart. They will grow to a width of around 5 feet if planted at this distance and in full light. They also make an excellent wind screen for the house.
They develop quickly.
In a sunny area, 3 to 4 feet each year is not unusual. Although growth could be a little slower, they also thrive in partial sun.
The fact that this evergreen is disease- and pest-resistant and that deer don’t especially enjoy them, unlike other pines and hemlocks, is one of its genuine beauty. They can withstand quite a bit of snow and ice. After they have established themselves, they won’t need a lot of additional watering or fertilization, and they thrive in typical soil.
Go for a Norway spruce if you want something that has a more pyramidal shape, like a Christmas tree—you’d receive growth of at least a foot or two a year. One of the most cold-resistant of all the spruces, they are also quite disease-resistant. They are easily accessible in any size.
Inquire about their best-selling tree if you want to purchase the necessary trees from a local Maine nursery. You’ll have a better understanding of what other local gardeners are effectively growing.
Avoid white pine because it needs direct sunlight for best growth and is susceptible to white pine blister rust. (I’m always cautious when a plant’s illness bears its name!)
Keep this in mind as you select the next dozen plants at the garden center: You have to take care of everything you plant until the frost, which is roughly five months away!