Basics. Because of its hardiness, catnip can endure severe frost. Catnip likes moderate water, but once established, it can tolerate drought. Wait until the soil has warmed up a little, to at least 60 F. There is no benefit to beginning your seeds in cold soil.
‘Blue Wonder’ Catmint
At 12 to 15 inches tall, Nepeta x racemosa ‘Blue Wonder’ is small. Grayish-green, neatly wavy leaves highlight the 6-inch terminal spikes of two-lipped dark blue blooms. (Zones 5-9.)
‘Little Titch’ Catmint
The charming dwarf plant Nepeta racemosa ‘Little Titch’ grows into a compact mound with green foliage and blue blooms. It makes an excellent border or edging plant because it only grows 8 to 10 inches tall and spreads up to 12 inches broad. From late spring to fall, it virtually always flowers. (Zones 4-8.)
Faassen’s Catmint
Strong perennial nepetafaassenii thrives in hot, dry conditions. A burst of blue flowers is accompanied by mounding sprays of silvery-green leaves on the plants. After the first flush of bloom, deadhead or prune back to promote additional blossoms. It can reach a height of 1-2 feet and a width of up to 2 feet. (Zones 4-9.)
Japanese Catmint
Of all catmints, Nepetasubsessilis bears the largest bloom clusters. Plants that reach a height of 4 feet tall may produce bloom spikes that are 8 inches long and 3 inches wide. Robust stems prevent the plant from needing to be staked or sheared to preserve its strong upright habit. It blooms for a lengthy period of time, just as other catmints. (Zones 4-8.)
Persian Catmint
Nepeta mussinii is a low-growing species with a spread of up to 18 inches, remaining under a foot tall. It’s the first catmint to start blooming in the spring, and although it slows down during the sweltering summer, it practically never stops until the first harsh freezes of the fall. If not frequently deadheaded, this species can easily self-seed in the garden and turn weedy. Persian catmint has exceptional cold tolerance. (Zones 3-9.)
‘Six Hills Giant’ Catmint
Sometimes Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ is mistakenly labeled as a Nepetafaassenii variety. With the exception of size, it is almost identical to that species; it can reach heights of 3 feet and widths of 30 inches. It has a tendency to flop open in the middle of the summer, but if you prune it after the first flush of bloom, it will reliably rebloom and keep its mounded shape. (Zones 4-9.)
‘Walker’s Low’ Catmint
The exceptional hybrid nepeta “Walker’s Low” blooms for a very long time and is very simple to grow. Despite having “low” in its name, this variety can grow up to 30 inches tall and wide; it is not a dwarf type. (Zones 4-9.)
Which plants can withstand a frost?
Although evergreens are well renowned for their capacity to endure the winter, they are not the only plants that can withstand freezing temperatures and frost. Some frost is acceptable for leafy vegetables including chard, lettuce, kale, collards, and cabbage. Crocus, snowdrops, and primrose are just a few of the early-spring flowering flowers that may survive the winter, and pansies are very hardy. Along with catmint, baptista, sedum, and peonies, other plants that resist frost and add some visual beauty are hostas, heuchera, iris, lily of the valley, cyclamen, and violas.
As a general rule, mature perennial plants with numerous, thick leaves and thick or deep roots do better in frosty conditions than other plants. However, with the right preparation, the majority of mature plants can endure frosts.
Do perennial plants require protection from the cold?
Early fall and late spring frosts are constant in St. Louis. Over time, we have figured out the ideal strategy for shielding our adorable plants from these cold periods. Here are a couple of our tried-and-true methods:
- Move delicate plants into a location above freezing, such as your home, garage, or storage shed, if they aren’t already in the ground. Important information: Since most annual plants, houseplants, and tropical plants do not tolerate chilly nights, it is advisable to relocate them inside your house.
- Water the soil well if it is to be planted in the ground; moist soil retains heat better than dry dirt. Plants should be covered with fabric; bed sheets and towels work well. If at all feasible, drape and secure the fabric all the way to the ground. Straw and newspaper are further options. Avoid using plastic. The plant will burn anywhere the plastic touches it. But as long as the plastic doesn’t touch the plants, covering the plants with plastic pots works perfectly.
- You can safely take off any coverings as the temperature rises above freezing.
Shrubs: The majority of shrubs can withstand frost, though blossoms could be destroyed. Many tightly closed, dormant flower buds can withstand frost. Cover any blooming or budding bushes with a towel. If at all feasible, spread a cloth out and fasten it. Big Leaf Hydrangeas, Hydrangea maculata, should be covered to minimize leaf damage and bloom loss because they do not take frosts well.
Flowers that are perennial: The majority of perennial plants are not damaged by frost and do not require protection. Hostas and bleeding hearts are perennials that are susceptible to frost. To safeguard their flowers and foliage, they should be covered. Any perennials with blooms or buds should be covered.
Vegetables:
- Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and other plants that won’t withstand frost should be moved indoors.
How should catmint be cared for over the winter?
- ‘Walker’s Low’ plants are 30 inches tall and 36 inches wide, with lavender-blue flowers. As a side note, the name is not short because it derives from an Irish garden. It is actually almost as tall as the “Six Hills Giant.” Walker’s Low was chosen by the Perennial Plant Association as their Perennial of the Year for 2007.
Don’t restrict yourself to just these four options if you feel driven to hunt for catmint in your neighborhood garden centers. Numerous other top-notch cultivars are also readily available, including “Dropmore,” “Blue Wonder,” and “Junior Walker,” a scaled-down variety of “Walker’s Low” that stands 16 inches tall.
- Catmint tends to grow wider than tall, so give it lots of room.
- Even while catmint likes direct sunlight, it can also tolerate moderate afternoon shadow.
- Water new plants or transplants until they can survive on their own. Following that, established plants can withstand heat and drought.
- Never fertilize it again. Catmint prefers well-drained, somewhat fertile soil. In fact, a plant may flip over or split in half if the soil is excessively rich. In that case, trim the plant back to make it look neat. Compost added in the spring or fall will provide the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
- After the first blooming flush of the plants has finished, shear them back by a third or more. The plants will be more orderly, their size will be limited, and this will encourage a second rush of blossoms later in the summer. The plant will still bloom often and maintain its lovely appearance during the stifling summer months even without being sheared.
- Over the winter, keep any dead foliage in place to help protect the crown. Wait till the beginning of spring to trim it.
- Divide catmint every three to four years, preferably in the spring or early fall, to maintain it healthy. During the first growing season, until the plants take root, keep it well-watered.
- Catmint varieties can grow to be quite huge. Pinch the plant back in the spring after it has grown a few inches tall to encourage a bushier growth habit if you wish to limit the plant’s total size.
- Cut a vertical chunk off of an established clump of catmint in the spring to reproduce it. Make sure the division has a strong root system and a number of new shoots. Till the plant takes root, keep it well-watered.
- Cuttings can also be used to spread catmint. Before flower buds grow in the spring, clip healthy shoots at a length of three inches. The cuttings should be placed in a moist medium, such as sand or a peat-perlite mixture. Within two to three weeks, they should start to root.
- Catmint is typically unaffected by either pests or illnesses. The only issue that can occasionally arise is leaf spot. There is no consensus that the severity of this fungus illness justifies control measures.
- Experience has taught me that some cats are drawn to catmint. If you’re worried about this, cover newly planted or transplanted catmint with chicken wire to stop your cat from consuming it or rolling about in it.
- This plant attracts butterflies and bees like crazy. Additionally, hummingbirds adore it.
- You’ll adore this plant if your garden is plagued by four-legged animals other than cats. Deer, voles, and rabbits are deterred by the foliage’s minty aroma. THIS is a plant that pays for itself, at last!
Catnip plant winter hardiness
Your cats should be able to roll around and rub on the catnip without damaging nearby plants, so plant it there. Some cats enjoy catnip so much that they will roll, lay, and even nibble it to death.
If you discover that to be the case, insert some thin dowels or bamboo poles every 2 to 3 inches wherever you are growing catnip to prevent cats from lying on top of the plant. Catnip is a low, loosely branched perennial plant, which means that it will typically wither away in the winter and reappear in the spring. Catnip can be positioned in front of purple coneflower, which blooms at the same time, in a flowerbed. The plant produces inconspicuous, small, white blossoms. It may also be cultivated in containers. Grow numerous pots for indoor cats that you may alternate between the indoors and the outside. Since catnip needs a lot of light to grow, you’ll need to bring in fresh indoor pots every few weeks and move the old ones back outside. In order to draw your cat and reduce the rodent population, you might also want to grow catnip close to your vegetable garden.
Does catmint get pruned back in the fall?
Catmint and I have a love-hate relationship. If you have a LOT of space for it to take over, it’s a terrific plant for providing cold tones to a space. Fortunately, catmint can be severely trimmed at any time of the year.
You can trim these back in the fall to just a few inches above the ground, but your garden will have a hole in it until they grow back flush in the spring.
If catmint is the cornerstone of your perennial border, regular summers pruning should be combined with more restrained trims of around half the plant’s height during the fall.
What distinguishes catnip and catmint from one another?
Nepeta cataria, a plant native to Europe and a close relative of the mints, produces catnip (spearmint, peppermint, pennyroyal, etc). The plant or dried herb attracts a lot of cats, and the smell might cause odd behavior patterns. Licking, chewing, head shaking, chin and cheek stroking, rolling, and salivation are a few of these actions. The herb only has an effect on roughly two-thirds of domestic cats. Other cat species, such as lions, leopards, and jaguars, are also impacted. A common folk treatment for fevers, colds, cramps, and headaches is catnip.
Catnip offers therapeutic benefits for both humans and cats, in addition to having insecticidal characteristics. Nepetalactone is the substance in catnip that is active (a component of essential oil extracted from catnip). Nepatalactone is an insect repellent that was developed by Iowa State University researchers in the early 2000s for use against cockroaches, mosquitoes, mites, ticks, spiders, termites, and other pests. Since then, it hasn’t been included in insect repellents that are sold commercially.
Additionally promising for crop protection is catnip oil. In a study, collard greens intercropped with catnip (placed in alternate rows) decreased the prevalence of flea beetles, an insect that is extremely harmful to collards. It has also been demonstrated that catnip extracts can repel harmful insects and the adult and larval stages of the Colorado potato beetle. Caterpillars, moths, and butterflies cannot be harmed by catnip extracts.
Catnip is comparatively simple to cultivate, accepts a wide range of soil types, and if not controlled, has the potential to spread beyond your garden. There are numerous seed firms that sell seed. Since the seed is so tiny, it can be directly sown on garden soil that has been thoroughly prepared and covered with 1/8″ of dirt. As an alternative, it can be planted in a flat after it has five sets of leaves. If you have cats, you might need to keep them away from it until it is established and mature. Once planted, each plant should endure for a number of years. Cutting the root mass in half and replanting allows you to divide established plants. Grow the plants where they have enough room because they can grow rather huge (3 feet tall).
Prior to blossoming, trim stems to gather catnip (early to mid summer). Leaves should be taken off of stems. In a well-ventilated place away from direct sunshine, spread the leaves out on a screen or tray. To provide aeration, turn the leaves once per day. It ought to be dry enough to crumble into flakes after two to three weeks. Put dried flakes in a container with a tight lid or a plastic bag that can be sealed. A few catnip plants will give you a year-round supply if you adore cats.
While similar to catnip in appearance, catmint (Nepeta x faassenii) does not energize cats. It is a mounded shrub with lovely gray-green foliage that grows slowly. Early summer and again throughout the monsoon season are when its abundant blue flowers bloom. Once planted, it is tolerant to both heat and drought. It can self-seed and grow (almost to the point of becoming weedy). These hardy perennials can withstand USDA zone 4 conditions and do well in mountain gardens. The majority of herbivores, including deer, are not drawn to catmint. The majority of gardeners think it makes a fine perennial border plant.
Bees and other beneficial insects are attracted to catnip and catmint. Catnip typically only blooms once per season, but when it does, bees and other nectar-feeding insects are drawn to it. I saw solitary bees feasting on nectar in the early summer, honeybees utilizing it in the middle to late summer, and bee flies and hawk moths using it in the late summer due to catmint’s prolonged bloom time. I cultivate both catmint and catnip. Cats use the catnip that has been gathered. All summer long, the catmint offers beneficial insects both beauty and sustenance. Photos and links to more information are provided below.