The succulent members of the Euphorbia genus of plants are renowned for their graceful and architectural appearance.
Due to the fact that many of the common kinds are stem succulents, these plants are sometimes mistaken for cacti. However, they actually belong to a completely separate genus that has nearly 2000 species!
This article will discuss what makes Euphorbia so distinctive and remarkable, why it is not a cactus, how to care for Euphorbia, which species are some of the more well-known ones, and other topics.
Is a Euphorbia a succulent or a cactus?
The plant genus Euphorbia (Euphorbia spp.) contains more than 2,000 species. Around 1,200 of them are succulents, some of which have odd shapes and broad, mushy leaves, while others remarkably resemble cactus and have spines. The genus’ plants are frequently referred to as spurge or euphorbia by growers.
With repeated additions and deletions of species and subgenera, Euphorbia is a somewhat ambiguous genus. The genus contains species that are annual, perennial, and biennial. There are species of herbaceous plants, woody shrubs, as well as deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. The presence of a milky white sap in the plants is the defining trait among the species.
Most of the euphorbia species utilized for landscaping or as indoor plants are succulents with interesting forms and foliage, but a handful are also prized for their blooms. The poinsettia is one of the most well-known euphorbia species that is not a succulent.
The majority of euphorbias flower in the spring or summer and hibernate over the winter. Most species should be planted in the spring, when the risk of frost has gone, however houseplants can usually be started at any time. The growth rates of the species range from slowly to rather swiftly.
Euphorbia is poisonous to dogs, cats, and humans in all forms. Each plant species has a different amount of toxicity.
Are flammable objects succulents?
The beautiful evergreen succulent shrub Euphorbia tirucalli “Sticks on Fire” (Fire Sticks) resembles sea coral and grows in a thicket of brilliantly colored, loosely branched vertical branches. The unusual stems, which are as thin as pencils, are reddish-golden in color, which fades to yellow tints in the summer before returning to redder tones in the winter. The stems initially have tiny, inconspicuous leaves that fall off quickly. Landscape designers treasure Euphorbia tirucalli, using it to add vertical accents in water-efficient gardens, to create succulent seascapes, or to add its flaming color to container floral arrangements.
- Usually reaches heights of 4–8 ft. (120–240 cm) and a width of 120–240 cm when grown in-ground in a hot, frost-free area.
- This amazing plant is low maintenance, salt tolerant, resistant to deer or rabbits, and resistant to the majority of pests and illnesses.
- Performs best in full sun and well-drained, dry to medium moisture soils. It can withstand drought and thrives in rocky, poor soil.
- Ideal addition to beds, borders, Mediterranean gardens, or seaside gardens. It can be placed in pots where it will provide floral arrangements color and height.
- cuttings that take root quickly.
- Native to a large area, including India, the Arabian Peninsula, tropical and subtropical Africa, Madagascar, and tropical and subtropical Africa, is the species Euphorbia tirucalli.
- If consumed, the plant is poisonous in all sections. Skin and eyes may become irritated by the milky sap. When handling this plant, exercise extreme caution because the stems are brittle and the milky sap can burn the skin. Put on some gloves and safety glasses.
Euphorbias are they cacti?
Particularly the stem succulents, Euphorbia species are among the plant taxa that laypeople most frequently mistake for cactus.
[19] Cacti do not secrete latex, although euphorbias do, and the fluid is sticky and milky white. [19] In contrast to cactus, which can have incredibly beautiful flowers, euphorbia flowers are typically small and unremarkable (although the structures surrounding the flowers may not be). [19] With growth patterns like cactus, euphorbias from desert settings contain thorns, which are distinct from cacti’s spines. [19]
There are a few key differences which I will break down:
Cacti are only indigenous to the New World, with the exception of the Rhipsalis baccifera. There are no cacti in Europe, Russia, Australia, nor in Africa or Asia (except for that one species of Rhipsalis). On the other hand, euphorbia are native to many regions of the world, although those from Africa and India are the most cactus-like.
Both cacti and euphorbias have prickles, however the prickles on each species are unique. All cacti have areoles, which are structures that serve as the source of the spines, which are modified leaves. The most common thorns on euphorbias are modified stems that are typically seen in pairs. Areoles do not exist in euphorbias.
Cacti and succulent Euphorbias both retain water for dry spells, but latex, a hazardous sap, is present in all Euphorbias. It is most likely a Euphorbia if you cut open a succulent and it weeps this white fluid.
Cacti and Euphorbias both produce flowers, however the blossoms are typically extremely dissimilar. Euphorbia blooms are often subtle, whereas cactus blossoms are frequently spectacularly colorful and striking. Flowers from euphorbia are frequently a light greenish-yellow tint. However, some Euphorbias, such as Euphorbia milii, have vivid flowers (Crown of Thorns).
So there you have it—in a nutshell, the similarities and differences between cacti and euphorbias. Next time you see a spiny succulent, you’ll be able to identify it as a cactus, a Euphorbia, or something else by taking a closer look.
How are euphorbias cared for?
With a bigger selection available by mail order from specialized plant nurseries, euphorbias are commonly available in garden centers, nurseries, and online retailers.
In the spring or as larger plants in bloom in the summer and early fall, they are primarily sold as plants. The majority are in 1- or 2-liter pots, however smaller plants can occasionally be seen in 9-cm (31/2-in) pots.
Where to plant
For information on growing requirements and actual size to determine spacing, check the plant label as this varies widely depending on what you select to plant. The RHS Find a Plant website also has euphorbia pictures and descriptions.
When to plant
In the majority of the UK, spring is the ideal time to plant since the moist soil and warmer temperatures promote rapid plant establishment. This is particularly true of the blue and silvery leafed varieties, which struggle to survive the winter on damp soils and are therefore best avoided throughout the fall and winter months.
How to plant
Euphorbias can be planted like any other boundary perennial. This is a straightforward process that often involves digging a hole that is larger than the new plant’s root ball, planting it there, and then covering the hole with soil that has been amended with organic matter, like well-rotted garden compost or manure. The organic stuff is not necessary for plants that prefer arid climates, such E. myrsinites. All need to be well watered in and kept moist until they take root.
While the majority of euphorbia prefer to grow in the ground, some, like E. myrsinites, can thrive in containers. This is mostly because they want soil that is freely draining and it is relatively simple to mix up potting compost that precisely meets their needs. Add one part of grit to three parts of John Innes No. 3 compost.
In what environments do euphorbias thrive?
In general, euphorbias need a sunny location and rich, well-drained soil. Light types, meanwhile, can tolerate some shade and do well as ground cover around shrubs and trees.
How to plant euphorbias
Dig a deep hole when planting euphorbias that have been cultivated in pots and fill it with compost or leaf mould. Euphorbia should be planted firmly, then it should be watered well and mulched to keep moisture in and weeds out.
Here, Monty Don proposes two exceptional euphorbia species and provides planting instructions. Additionally, he offers advice on how to grow euphorbias from cuttings.
How to care for euphorbias
As long as the growing environment is favorable, euphorbias don’t need feeding or special care. After the blooms have faded, blooming stems should be pruned. However, gloves must always be used when working with euphorbias because their milky sap is hazardous if consumed and irritates the skin and eyes.
How to propagate euphorbias
Euphorbias can be grown by taking springtime cuttings. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sap.
By collecting cuttings of Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii in the spring, you can learn how simple and gratifying euphorbia propagation is. Monty Don offers advice on how to maintain the cuttings’ viability, plant them, and shield your hands from the irritating sap:
Is the Firestick Succulent toxic?
Ingestion may result in discomfort, diarrhea, and stomach and tongue irritation. Poison control centers have categorized this plant as a chemical skin irritant. The plant’s scientific name is Euphorbia Tirucalli, and it is also known by the common names milk bush, firestick cactus, pencil tree, and pencil cactus.
Why isn’t the cactus on my Firestick red?
Why isn’t the plant on my firestick red? Your pencil cactus won’t turn red if you give it more water than it need. If your plant doesn’t receive enough sun, it also won’t turn red. Put your sun as much as you can in direct, strong sunlight.
Euphorbia, what type of a plant is it?
A genus of flowering plants in the spurge family is called Euphorbia (Euphorbiaceae). One of the biggest genera of flowering plants, Euphorbia contains approximately 2,000 different species, from diminutive annuals to enormous, long-lived perennial trees to deciduous shrubs. Some of the most recognizable euphorbias are poinsettia plants.
Plants native to Euphorbia are tough, hardy, and simple to cultivate in a variety of hardiness zones. Euphorbia plants are wonderful complements to flower beds and rock gardens because of their colorful leaves and distinctive flower structures called cyathiums. As long as they receive the proper amount of light, euphorbias thrive as both indoor and outdoor plants. The majority of them hibernate during the winter and bloom in the late spring and early summer.
Cactus or Euphorbia Trigona?
Central Africa is the original home of the African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona). Because of its fervent and quick growth, it is frequently used as a hedge. Although it has names like “candelabra cactus,” “cathedral cactus,” “friendship cactus,” and “good luck cactus,” this plant is essentially a succulent. It has three unique sides that are ridged and have triangular stems. Thorns and teardrop-shaped leaves are scattered over the ridges. This plant has a growing season that is lush and green, with new growth that has a pale green tint. The Rubra or Royal Red cultivar is well known for its striking hue, which late in the season develops bright red accents.
The African milk tree has a long lifespan and grows rapidly, about 1 to 2 feet per year, to a height of 9 feet. However, this plant will only reach around half of its maximum height when planted indoors. African milk tree can only be grown outside by North American gardeners in arid climates with nighttime lows of 50 degrees Fahrenheit or above (parts of Texas, California, Florida, and Arizona). For these fortunate few, the plant offers a striking landscape element that is uncommon in American gardens.
The African milk tree’s sap can irritate the skin, eyes, and mouth and is poisonous to both people and pets. So much so that it may result in convulsions if ingested and may also result in blisters, severe eye irritation, and swallowing.
Does euphorbia grow indoors?
Have a space in your home that receives a lot of light and begs for a plant? With the right care and attention, columnar euphorbia, which are intricate, sculptural succulents, will thrive inside. Continue reading for information on growing euphorbia as indoor plants as well as other fascinating facts about this beautiful plant. So come choose your favorite euphorbia at Flora Grubb Gardens, our store in San Francisco!
Let’s first address the biggest issue in the room: euphorbia are not cactus!
Despite having a similar appearance, cactus and columnar euphorbia are separate plants. You may observe the cactus’ rigid, upright trunk and arms if you look at a Saguaro. It grows in the desert and has spikes to protect itself from predators. Then take a look at a candelabra tree, which is a kind of euphorbia and has arms that are spiky for defense. In the desert, candelabra trees can also be found. What makes a difference, then? Contrary to popular belief, there are no cacti outside of the “New World.” Surely Africa has cacti, right? True, there are no cacti in Africa.
Understanding convergent evolution, which is described as “the process by which creatures that are not closely related independently evolve identical features as a result of needing to adapt to comparable habitats or ecological niches,” is necessary to reconcile this finding. In summary, because they were compelled to evolve in the same manner and under comparable circumstances, cactus and euphorbia are almost identical. Because this is an effective method for storing water, they are columnar. Spikes are used to protect that water. Despite having a similar appearance, they are totally unrelated despite having diverged over vast distances.
How do we tell the difference, then? The key differentiator is the flowers. Cactus blossoms are enormous, delicate, and frequently vividly colored. They are frequently pollinated by birds or bats. Fly pollination is common for euphorbia blooms, which are tiny, often green, and somewhat unimpressive. Whereas at first glance the spikes appear to be similar, closer examination reveals that euphorbia has thorns while cactus has spines (a modified leaf) (a modified stem). The majority of euphorbia have a toxic latex sap to aid in their defense, which is another distinct feature.
Columnar Euphorbia thrive well indoors when planted in a cactus mix that drains quickly. Here are some tips for taking care of them at home:
Euphorbias are warm-blooded plants, therefore south or west-facing windows inside—where the plant receives four or more hours of direct sunlight daily—are ideal, though they can also grow in extremely intense indirect light. If placed within 18 inches of a window, they could burn because their skin is more sensitive than cactus. To avoid this, arrange them so that they are angled toward the window. Make sure the plant has adequate drainage and is kept as warm as you can if you are growing it in bright indirect light.
Since these plants grow throughout the summer, water should be progressively increased through late spring and into the season when they can experience dryness without becoming completely parched. This indicates that the soil does not feel damp or chalky or cracked throughout the entire container. During this time, don’t leave them to sit about completely dry; shriveling is a sign that they haven’t received enough water. Although fertilizer is typically not necessary, you can use an all-purpose fertilizer in the summer at 1/4 strength.
During the fall, water should be gradually reduced. Euphorbia naturally receive relatively little winter precipitation. They should become completely dry between waterings over the winter. Make sure to let your euphorbia stand in a saucer of water until it has completely absorbed the water because it can be difficult to rehydrate a completely dry plant (as it is like a dry sponge, where water will just run off). Until there is standing water in the saucer that isn’t being absorbed, keep adding water and letting the plant sucking it out. The surplus water can then be emptied out of the saucer or removed by placing a towel, sponge, or turkey baster within the saucer to absorb it. Never leave columnar euphorbia submerged for longer than 12 hours.
Brown spots are the most typical problem with these columnar euphorbia. They may be corking if they are light brown and hard like a scab, which is the normal process of a plant aging. Consider corking as a tree’s smooth, green bark turning woody over time. Relax, this is very normal.
However, rot is present if the brown spots are deeper and mushy. The plant needs to have the rot surgically removed since it will spread and kill it. The more likely it is that you can rescue your plant, the earlier you catch rot. Three situations are possible here:
Dig down to healthy, vigorous tissue to treat a small area of rot, then let the plant repair by developing a scab.
You must remove the top, clear the rot from the top and bottom back to healthy, lively tissue, and then re-root the top if it has ringed the column halfway up. Replant the top in extremely fast-draining soil (half pumice or lava rock and half cactus mix) and set it in a warm, sunny location out of direct sunlight after allowing it to scab over for two to three weeks. If you have it, rooting hormone is also helpful for this. For re-rooting, cement or tile flooring work well because they carry heat to the plant; but, if you have a heat mat, you can use that as well. Set it to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case, the top of the plant will produce a new plant, and the bottom plant will continue to develop and produce new heads. (You would also propagate the plant in this manner, typically in the late spring when it is actively growing.)
If the column’s base begins to deteriorate and spiral around it, you should discard the bottom and propagate the top. You may recall that we mentioned the plant’s latex sap is poisonous. Use gloves and avoid getting sap in your eyes while doing this because it is a serious skin and eye irritant.
Other typical issues with euphorbia planted indoors typically result from the plants being grown in chilly environments with little sunlight. Summertime underwatering of plants causes problems, but even a small amount of wintertime overwatering can be disastrous. Another typical error is to not water until the soil is completely saturated.
Euphorbia leucodendron and Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’ (also known as pencil cactus), two non-columnar euphorbias with lovely forking shapes that resemble aquatic flora almost as much as possible, may both be grown indoors. These require a lot of light to develop as houseplants and can even grow in bright, direct sunlight beside a window, just like the columnar euphorbia. (Not a good option for houses with pets due to the previously mentioned toxic sap!)
These incredible plants may, of course, also be cultivated outside in a temperate region like the Bay Area, even flourishing in the foggy streets of San Francisco. These euphorbia prefer a warm, protected location with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. They enjoy being next to radiant south- or west-facing walls or fences as well as slopes where water can drain off. Since they are summer growers, they will require more water during this dry period. However, if you want to fertilize, use an all-purpose fertilizer sprayed at 1/4 strength as they are typically not hungry. They frequently fail in clay soil, partial sunlight, or areas that receive an excessive amount of winter precipitation (in addition to our natural rainfall). Clay soil can benefit from mounding.