A member of the Euphorbiaceae family, which has members in a variety of startling sizes and shapes, Euphorbia is a very vast genus with around 2,000 species. They could be shrubs, trees, annuals, perennials, evergreens, or deciduous. The majority, which are native to temperate regions around the world, including the Mediterranean climate in Sonoma County, originated in Africa, Madagascar, and the Americas.
Poinsettia, a popular Christmas plant, is an example of Euphorbia pulcherrima. It stands out from the majority of its related species—often referred to as spurges—by having striking, vivid crimson bracts. Nearly all are perennials that require just moderate maintenance and are either evergreen or die back to the ground in the winter before regrowing in the spring. Their leafy stems have a variety of colors, sizes, and textures of leaves. The genus comprises a wide variety of forms, including, among others, mounds, upright stem sets, and low ground crawlers. Early spring through early summer is when euphorbias typically flower, and they then continue to produce lovely foliage all through the growing season or even all year long. Many are resistant to deer and gophers as well as drought.
The blooms on euphorbia are one of its most peculiar features. What is commonly referred to as a flower is actually a cyathium, which is made up of fused bracts that enclose a tiny true flower in a cup. On the ends of the leafy stems, groups of bracts that resemble leaves sprout. These bracts are typically vividly colored, with many species having chartreuse bracts that reflect light and create an amazing display. The elegant leafy stems come in a variety of colors, including blue, blue-green, reddish-green, reddish-orange, and green with purple undertones.
Depending on the species, euphorbias have different planting needs. Many plants need direct sunlight, but others may survive in partial shade, and a few even thrive in complete shadow. The majority of species that grow well in Sonoma County enjoy heat and can withstand some frost. They can tolerate drought, but some require regular water, and almost all don’t like having wet feet.
Euphorbias have some shortcomings despite its numerous positive traits. Each plant has a milky white sap in its stem that stings when touched, can be poisonous if consumed, and is extremely painful if it gets in the eyes. It’s crucial to clip them carefully and clean them right after after pruning. Long sleeves and gloves both protect the hands and arms. The good news is that the gophers and deer stay away because of the unpleasant sap. Self-sowing and underground stem spread can both be a pain, but for the most part, undesirable plants are simple to remove.
robbiae euporbia amygdaloides This species, sometimes known as Mrs. Robb’s bonnet, can endure more shade than most euphorbias and is quite short (up to 1 foot tall). It can be a helpful variety where there is no supplementary summer irrigation, but only if it is carefully contained on all sides; otherwise, it can become an unwelcome and invasive pest. Individual stems grow quickly via rhizomes.
Characia euphorbia This plant grows to a height of about 4 feet in a dome-shaped canopy, with erect, evergreen stems densely covered in narrow, blue-green leaves. It produces magnificent, spherical clusters of vibrant chartreuse/lime green flower heads that endure for several weeks and bloom in late winter to early spring. To stop unwanted self-seeding and make space for newly sprouting shoots, stems should be pruned down to the base as seeds form. The variety of this plant that is most frequently grown is E. c. wulfenii. It enjoys direct sunlight and uses little water.
griffithii Euphorbia In comparison to the other species listed, this Himalayan native has a highly distinctive appearance. It spreads slowly by creeping roots and matures as an upright stem up to 3 feet tall. Early summer brings forth the fiery orange-red bracts of “Fireglow,” which produce a sea of color and interest in areas with sun or filtered light and moderate moisture. To stop the spread and maintain control, cut it down to the ground in the winter and divide it every three to four years, if not more frequently. Some gardeners favor the related cultivar “Fern Cottage,” which is reputed to be less invasive.
Martini’s euphorbia This perennial, which is a cross between E. characias and E. amygdaloides, grows to a height of 2-3 feet and has dark green leaves with a hint of purple. In late winter to early spring, dense clusters of green blooms with dark centers appear at the tips of the branches. It does not reseed as frequently as other species, prefers full sun to part shade, and can withstand drought.
Myrsinites of Euphorbia This lovely evergreen plant, also known as myrtle spurge and donkey-tail spurge, has stems that extend outward from the crown and trail on the ground like an octopus. Early in the spring, the short, hefty blue-green leaves that cover the stems and end in clusters of chartreuse bracts lend a striking attraction to the environment. Cut entire stems back to the base as opposed to deadheading individual flowers, being careful not to remove slowly forming new stems. All year long, there will be new growth.
What plant has the most deer resistance?
French marigolds are a staple of gardeners everywhere and come in a wide range of vibrant hues over a lengthy season. They have numerous colors in a single flower head, are compact and bushy with little flowers, and have a tidy appearance overall. Marigolds are typically avoided by deer due to their strong scent, so planting them alongside other shrubs and ornamentals may assist to safeguard them.
Where would be the ideal location to plant a Euphorbia?
In general, euphorbias need a sunny location and rich, well-drained soil. Light types, meanwhile, can tolerate some shade and do well as ground cover around shrubs and trees.
How to plant euphorbias
Dig a deep hole when planting euphorbias that have been cultivated in pots and fill it with compost or leaf mould. Euphorbia should be planted firmly, then it should be watered well and mulched to keep moisture in and weeds out.
Here, Monty Don proposes two exceptional euphorbia species and provides planting instructions. Additionally, he offers advice on how to grow euphorbias from cuttings.
How to care for euphorbias
As long as the growing environment is favorable, euphorbias don’t need feeding or special care. After the blooms have faded, blooming stems should be pruned. However, gloves must always be used when working with euphorbias because their milky sap is hazardous if consumed and irritates the skin and eyes.
How to propagate euphorbias
Euphorbias can be grown by taking springtime cuttings. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sap.
By collecting cuttings of Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii in the spring, you can learn how simple and gratifying euphorbia propagation is. Monty Don offers advice on how to maintain the cuttings’ viability, plant them, and shield your hands from the irritating sap:
Does Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow withstand deer damage?
With its variegated foliage and vibrant flowers, this heat- and drought-tolerant perennial will give color to sunny gardens and patio pots. Late April sees the blooming of its clusters of green, lime, and cream variegated blooms. Its multicolored foliage is equally stunning. Its gray-green leaves have a golden edge, and in the fall, they change to colors of red, pink, and orange. This plant is a vibrant patio plant and provides months of flare to the garden. One of the final perennials to enter dormancy in the fall is this one. Deer and rabbit tend to stay away from it. grows most well in full sun to some shade.
Euphorbia is harmful, why?
The pencil cactus or milk bush plant, Euphorbia tirucalli, is widely used as an attractive plant in the southern United States and has a sap that is poisonous to people. The sap is also one of the most irritating plant chemicals known to man, and it can hurt skin or mucous membranes, especially if it gets in your eyes. Thus, early detection and treatment assist to prevent serious side effects like blindness. This activity discusses the diagnosis and treatment of Euphorbia sap exposure and emphasizes the part played by the healthcare team in enhancing patient care.
Objectives:
Describe the typical history and physical findings after exposure to the sap of Euphorbia tirucalli.
Explain how common Euphorbia tirucalli sap exposures are evaluated and treated.
Identify the serious consequences of exposure to the sap of Euphorbia tirucalli and explain their treatment.
Which plants irritate deer the most?
According to Hyland, deer typically avoid plants with fragrant foliage like sage and rosemary. Additionally, they stay away from statuesque plants like yews, hollies, and boxwoods. Deers will not enjoy anything spiky or fuzzy, so take the texture of the plant into consideration.
Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica)
Pieris is a well-liked garden plant due to its showy blossoms. The gorgeous white flower clusters, which have a drooping shape and are very pollinator-friendly, contrast with the dark green leaves. Pieris thrives in a little shade and can even handle severe shade. Even though you might have to deal with bothersome lacebugs, it’s unlikely that deer will ever touch this shrub.
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
This is one of the greatest options for a shrub that deer won’t eat among natural evergreen plants. Additionally, you’ll be gifted with gorgeous pale pink flower clusters that are up to six inches in diameter big in the late spring! The shrub itself can grow to be rather enormous, up to 15 feet tall and wide, however they develop at a moderate rate. Mountain laurel thrives in partial shade and is excellent for slightly acidic soils.
Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
Eastern red cedar is your best option if you enjoy how arborvitae looks and want a shrub that deer won’t eat (although they may still nibble on the lower foliage).
However, a variety of songbirds will benefit from your dinner as they love the berry-like, gray-blue cones. As a species that can withstand extreme drought, Eastern red cedar thrives in dry soil and direct sunlight, but it shouldn’t be planted close to crabapple or apple trees since it might spread cedar apple rust.
The Eastern red cedar might win the prize for being the tallest deer-resistant shrub, as it can grow to a height of up to 50 feet.
Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis)
Keep this juniper away from apples because, like Eastern red cedar, it may harbor cedar apple rust. It is also quite resistant to deer and thrives in dry soil (and even in drought conditions). Smaller shrubby forms are also available, however some cultivars develop to be tall trees (up to 20 feet).
Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)
Native to North America, this densely branched deciduous shrub is frequently seen along our eastern coast. Although the shrub’s grayish-green leaves are stunning, it is more well-known for its fruits, which are also covered with a waxy material that is scented, used to manufacture soap, attractive to birds, and generally deer-repellent.
Are euphorbias contagious?
The ideal plant for growing beneath large trees is Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae, one of the few species that grows in poor, dry soil in shadow. It grows through subterranean runners and finally forms a low carpet that smothers weeds. From spring to early summer, it produces erect spikes of lime green blooms in contrast to the dark glossy leaves. It serves as a good evergreen foil all year long for other shade-loving plants. It has received The Royal Horticultural Society’s esteemed Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
Grow Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae in partially to completely shaded, well-drained soil. Trim back fading flower stems in the fall. Every spring, as part of routine border maintenance, remove undesirable seedlings.
Wear gloves whenever handling euphorbias. The creamy sap irritates the skin.
Euphorbia grows annually or perennially.
Euphorbias are resilient, trouble-free perennial plants that are simple to grow. Euphorbias are well known for their distinctive flowers and brilliantly colored leaves, and they make wonderful additions to borders, rock gardens, meadows, and more.
Euphorbias are they invasive?
Northern California is home to isolated occurrences of Euphorbia esula, which is displacing native plant species. Prairies, grasslands, and pine savannahs are just a few of the vegetation types it can invade and take over.
Which plants complement euphorbia well?
How to employ it. The low-water Senecio, Agave, Anigozanthos, and other ornamental grasses that are grouped together with Euphorbia exhibit texture and coloration that volumize the design and give the plant palette a richer and softer texture.
Kelly frequently mixes Euphorbias with low-water-requirement plants like Leucadendron, Bulbine, and succulents. This greatly improves the effectiveness and responsibility of irrigation and other landscape care.
How invasive is Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow?
A hybrid of Euphorbia amygdaloides and Euphorbia characias subsp. characias, Martin’s Spurge (Euphorbia x martini) is a miniature evergreen perennial. On very stiff long stems in greenish/grey, it produces spherical mounds of medium narrow oval green leaves that are frequently tinged purple. In the center of each bract, which are often lime green in color, are tiny red flowers. In the late spring, flowers typically survive a long time. Although it can withstand some wetness as long as the soil is well-drained, it thrives in dry shaded locations. It also thrives in direct sunlight. It is evergreen, suckers, and has the potential to spread invasively if not controlled. The medium-sized variety “Ascot Rainbow” grows into an evergreen mound of leathery grey-green leaves that are bordered in creamy-yellow and blushed rose pink in the winter. Late spring and early summer see the emergence of greenish-yellow bract heads with tiny red flowers in the center.