It is rather simple to identify the root of your fiddle leaf fig’s negative attitude if it is anything other than green and full. Indoor fiddle leaf figs typically have a problem with either light, irrigation, or both. You can restore its health with a little work before it’s too late. Simply keep an eye out for the warning symptoms listed below and administer the appropriate treatment.
One thing to remember with fiddle leaf figs is that once a leaf is injured, it can’t truly be repaired. We’re diagnosing the issue and taking action to maintain the plant’s health going ahead. The tree will likely stop providing energy to the injured leaves when new growth begins to emerge, and they will eventually dry up and fall off. Last week, I got home to precisely that circumstance. The lowest leaf on the tree with damage was this one. The plant consumed all of its resources until it was entirely dried out, at which point it let go of it.
Unlike rubber plants, which can recover fallen leaves, fiddle leaf figs cannot. Because once the leaf is gone, it’s gone, maintaining their health is crucial.
How can I encourage my fiddle leaf fig to produce new leaves?
It might be time to pot-up when your Fiddle Leaf Fig appears to be too large for the pot (aka move it to a larger pot). It will have more room to expand and become taller as a result. Additionally, it is a good idea to completely re-pot your FLF so that it has new nutrients to grow with rather than using the same old soil (this entails taking as much soil from the roots as you can, cutting, and planting it in new soil).
How to Train you Fiddle Leaf Fig into a Standard Tree form (from bush / cluster or small plant)
While it may be tempting to start trimming your FLF to make it immediately resemble a standard form using the secateurs, this may not be the best course of action. It’s really alluring looking at those drool-worthy interior design images! Although your FLF may not be in the best shape right now, if you give it some thought and time, you will end up with a much beautiful tree! To get the tree you desire, the process could take at least a few years or seasons of growth, but this is okay. Be patient and take pleasure in the training process.
To start with, don’t pick off the bottom leaves! These aid in supplying nutrients to the lower trunk, strengthening and thickening it as a result. The waif-like trunks of FLFs are well known, but if the trunk is too thin, it won’t be able to support the leafy treetop portion as you want it to, and it will always need to be anchored or lean. The bottom leaves should probably be removed last, in my opinion.
Separating a Cluster: If you have a cluster or collection of FLFs in a pot, you can cut them apart into individual trees. Remove them from their containers at the beginning of the growing season, gently dividing the roots, and providing each plant a root ball that is appropriate for its size (if you have to cut the roots apart, make sure each plant has a root ball that is appropriate for the plant’s size). Replant each in a separate pot.
Be warned that some clusters may not be able to be separated because they share a root ball. This may be the situation if your FLF has a group of stems that are quite near to one another at soil level. This type of cluster separation might cause damage to the plant or possibly cause it to die.
There are ways to encourage your Fiddle Leaf Fig to grow more branches if it now just has a single trunk. To promote new growth, one method is to clip off the tip or top few leaves of the trunk. Another method is known as “notching,” in which a tiny cut is made into the trunk right above a bud that needs to branch. The tree will be duped into branching out at this point by this.
Simply remove any branches near the trunk that you don’t want on your FLF. They can also be employed for cultivating fresh FLFs. This post will be useful for more detailed information on cultivating a FLF tree.
Are you setting out on a trip with a brand-new FLF? Please share your progress with me in the comments section below; I’d love to hear from you.
If you’re looking for more detailed information on fertilizing, trimming, supporting a leaning trunk, and typical FLF fallacies, check out my other Fiddle Leaf Fig postings here.
Can you still rescue a fiddle leaf fig that has none?
As long as the fiddle leaf fig’s stem and roots are strong, it can live without leaves. A barren fiddle leaf fig can be brought back to life if you can quickly identify the source of its illness. Water and warmth should be sufficient to treat its illness and revive it.
The good news is that your Ficus does not necessarily have to die if its leaves start to shed. There’s a good possibility you can save the plant if its stem and root system are still sound and whole. Let’s look more closely at how to restore a fiddle leaf fig that has lost all of its leaves.
Check your fiddle leaf fig’s stem and roots
You must first check your fiddle leaf for any lingering live signs in order to determine whether it has a good chance of surviving. This entails paying great attention to its stem, branches, and root structure. Work softly is the first rule, after all.
Feel the Ficus’ stem and branches. It’s possible that your plant has already passed away if the leaves are woody, dry, and brittle. There’s a strong possibility you can revive your plant if it is still flexible and slightly green inside.
Similar to that, gently examine the roots. You’re out of luck if they are dry and shriveled, but if they appear healthy, your plant has a chance.
Repot your fiddle leaf (if it has root rot) and remove any decay
You may want to repot your plant and remove any dead or decaying wood and roots if you suspect that your fiddle leaf fig has root rot and that this may be the cause of its abrupt lack of leaves. Having said that, fiddle leaf figs may find this process to be extremely stressful, so avoid doing it unless it’s absolutely necessary.
The ideal soil for fiddle leaf figs is often high-quality, well-draining potting mix, so be sure to choose that when repotting your plant. Spread out the root ball of the fiddle leaf and trim back any moldy, wet, or dead roots using clean equipment. Replant your fiddle leaf gently, securing the dirt around it.
Water your plant
Water is necessary to revive a sick plant, but there is a fine line between overwatering and underwatering your fiddle leaf fig. A fiddle leaf fig won’t require as much water if its leaves are absent since it won’t expend as much energy.
You want to keep the soil moist but not soaked when it comes to how frequently you should water a fiddle leaf fig. Your plant will suffer further harm from too much water. Every few days, check the wetness of your soil with the tip of your finger, hydrate as necessary, and watch out that extra water doesn’t collect in your fiddle leaf fig’s drip tray. Also, don’t wait too long to avoid accidently drowning your fiddle leaf fig.
Ensure it gets adequate warmth and sunlight
It’s possible that your fiddle leaf is losing leaves because of a lack of light because these tropical beauties appreciate warmth and sunlight. Make sure your plant is placed in a location where it will receive enough sunlight to meet the fiddle leaf fig’s light requirements in an effort to combat this. It’s preferable to be near a window.
On its path to recovery, a fiddle leaf fig can benefit greatly from warmth. Get your plant to a sunny location as soon as you’ve cleaned up and hydrated it so that it may begin the process of regrowth.
Prevention is better than cure
A violin leaf can surely be restored to its ideal condition, but this isn’t always attainable. This is why it is better to take care of any potential illnesses with fiddle leaf figs before the plant begins to shed its leaves.
By carefully checking your plant every few days for any indication of illness, you might be made aware of potential concerns. Brown spots, in particular, are almost always a warning indication and call for action on your fiddle leaf fig. If you do this, you might be in a far better position to save your plant than if you were left in the more difficult scenario of attempting to revive a fiddle leaf fig that had lost all of its leaves.
Mild to moderate root rot
If you find root rot early enough, it’s extremely treatable but it gradually spreads and kills your plant.
Root rot is developing if you see brown veining or dark-brown or black spots growing on the lower leaves. Try our Root Supplement, or fix the issue right now by repotting the plant in new soil and a fresh container. Remove any rotten roots by trimming them. Within a few short weeks or months, your tree should recover with appropriate care, our Root Supplement, and excellent light!
Why aren’t the leaves on my fig tree growing?
Because they place low demands on their producers, fig trees are excellent options for home orchards. It can be really upsetting when such a “simple tree” doesn’t seem to grow properly because they are frequently touted as one of the easiest fruit trees to plant and manage.
If your fig tree isn’t flourishing, disease, pests, or poor cultural practices are probably the blame. These are the main reasons why fig trees grow slowly.
Let’s examine each of these factors, how they affect fig tree health, and what we can do to solve the issue and promote development.
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Why did the leaves on my fig tree fall off?
During the winter, the indoor air quality is frequently rather bad. Plants are stressed by low light levels, chilly drafts, low relative humidity levels, and other environmental variables. Figs and other indoor plants may shed a few leaves in the winter due to the stressful circumstances. Leaf drop over the winter should be kept to a minimum with good, regular maintenance.
Fig trees favor locations near windows that are well-lit. Sites near windows facing east and west are frequently the greatest. Ensure that the plant is maintained away from sources of heat or cold. When watering a fig tree, keep applying water until it starts to drip out of the pot’s bottom. Get rid of the extra water. Before giving the fig tree another drink, let the top inch of the soil dry up. Figs, like the majority of houseplants, don’t require fertilization during the winter.
Is my fig tree going to grow back?
My fig tree has suffered severe frost damage. Should we let the dead alone or cut them off? It has always produced good, healthy yields.
A: Although many fig trees were harmed over the recent winter, most will recover. Once you uncover green tissue, begin chopping away at the browned branches. If not, entirely cut off that branch. The tree can then be shaped by cutting a few inches off all around if necessary. Use a general-purpose garden fertilizer or a granular fruit tree fertilizer to fertilize. If the summer is dry, keep mulch around the tree’s base and water it once a week. An elder tree like this one has a fair chance of recovery with your proper care, even if you don’t receive many figs this year if they are late-bearing.
A: My entire garden area is covered in ants. I can’t even enter to prepare the ground for planting because the situation is that horrible. Do you have any suggestions for how I might get rid of the ants before planting?
A: To get rid of these ants, you’ll need to treat the entire garden and the region around it. There are various options, but a potent pyrethrin spray can provide effective, quick control. Afterward, use a baited ant control in the vicinity of the garden to discourage them from returning.
Q: Help! My flowerbed has a weed that is currently in bloom and whose extremely long roots make it impossible to get up. The use of weed killers hasn’t been effective, and I anticipate new growth. Any recommendations?
A weed’s behavior indicates how to control it even if we are unable to identify it. Since it dies back in the summer, we can conclude that this weed is a cool-season perennial. This most likely indicates that it appears between the first cool spell in the fall and late winter. The best course of action right now is to get those blooms cut off and remove as much of them as you can, making it more exposed to the upcoming hot weather. Since it’s impossible to remove all of those tangled roots without completely digging up the bed, the plants will resprout. When it reappears, bring a sprig to your favorite neighborhood garden center and discuss a spray with the horticulture. Compared to the mature plants you are now facing, the new growth will be significantly more susceptible to weed killers.
Potential Cause 1: Root Rot
Brown stains on the roots from a fungus caused by too much moisture. Root rot is brought by by over watering and bad drainage, and it eventually affects your plant’s leaves.
How to Correct It
Removing the pot and looking at the roots is the only way to be confident that your plant has root rot. Root rot is at blame if the roots are mushy and discolored. Let your plant dry out for around two weeks if there are only a few brown patches on the leaves so that the roots have enough time to heal.
Make sure your plant gets enough light, and remove any damaged leaves. If there are several brown patches, you should remove any brown, mushy roots and the affected leaves before repotting the plant and being careful not to overwater it in the future.
Potential Cause 2: Bacterial Infection
In addition to the brown spots, your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will yellow as a result of bacterial leaf spot. In contrast to bacterial leaf spot, which causes the leaf to turn yellow as the brown spot spreads, root rot often causes the leaves to remain dark green with brown patches. Your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will eventually drop off due to both bacterial leaf spot and root rot. Since bacterial leaf spot tends to feed on new growth, it is likely to be to fault if your younger leaves are suffering more than your older leaves.
Unfortunately, this is the Fiddle Leaf Fig condition that is most difficult to treat. It can already be too late for your plant, even with the right care and watering. Cut off all of the leaves that have brown spots if the damage is not severe, then repot your plant in new, sterile soil. While it is healing, give it lots of light and don’t water as frequently.
Potential Cause 3: Insect Damage
Although uncommon, insect illnesses leave clear signs. Check your plant for webs or insects using a magnifying glass. Small patches that develop into holes on the leaves are a sure sign of insect damage.
Treatment for insect infestations is simple. Use neem oil products made specifically for indoor plants. Alternately, you might make your own cure by mixing a few teaspoons of mineral oil and baking soda in a spray bottle with water. Spray the entire affected area of the plant after thoroughly shaking the solution. Your other houseplants should not be near diseased plants. Neem oil has an overpowering odor, so move your plant outside if you can. Spray your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves with a strong mist. Don’t forget to spray the area where the leaf meets the stem after turning each leaf to cover the underside. If more spraying is required, wait two weeks, inspect once more, then repeat the process.
Potential Cause 4: Your Plant is Too Dry
Dry tan or brown regions that originate at the edge of the leaf and force the leaf to curl make dry plant brown spots simpler to identify. Your plant will occasionally appear dry or wilted overall, and the dirt may have retreated from the pot (shrinkage). This may result in the water never reaching the root ball and instead running between the pot and the soil.
Consider transferring your Fiddle Leaf Fig to a more moderate area if it is currently close to a heater or in an extremely dry environment. When the soil is 50 to 75 percent dry, water as needed, and keep an eye on your plant to make sure it’s getting enough hydration. Use a humidifier close to your plant or try misting it once to three days. Make sure the root ball of your plant is completely submerged in water by giving it a long sip. Make sure the pot’s bottom is dripping with water. Before placing the plant back on its saucer, let it to rest and drain any extra water.