Grab a set of clean, well-kept scissors, clippers, or pruners. This is a bypass pruner that I enjoy using.
To lessen the possibility of a disease spreading from plant to plant, wipe the blades with a cotton ball that has been dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Making the cut – angle or straight?
When making a cutting for propagation, instructions on whether to cut straight across or at an angle are occasionally seen. Cutting at an angle results in more surface area being exposed. This has both positive and negative aspects. Here is the lowdown:
It’s harmful because it somewhat raises the possibility that bacteria or fungi will spread disease into the cutting. Therefore, it’s not the cut that commercial producers like since, if a disease took hold, it might spread to a significant portion of their crop.
It’s advantageous because an angled cutting has greater surface area to absorb water and rooting hormone than a straight cut and is therefore more likely to establish more roots.
I advise cutting at an angle as disease is unlikely for those of us who garden at home.
Where and how much to cut from your fiddle leaf fig?
Take 3 nodes from a growing point if you can, cutting just below the third node.
Although three nodes are not required, having three increases your chances of success because there are now three growing points rather of just one.
A lengthier cutting can also be divided into two or more pieces. Although a growing point end is not required, it must have nodes.
Describe a node. wonderful question A leaf or branch along a stem is said to be at a node. The fresh buds will develop here. The internode is the term for the area between.
White milky sap will trickle from the cut. A milky, white latex sap is produced by all members of the Moraceae plant family. Simply avoid eating it and putting it in your eyes as it can irritate you.
Inject rooting hormone into the cutting. The rooting process for your cuttings is accelerated with rooting hormone, resulting in bigger, more developed plants more quickly.
- Particularly on woody plants like fiddle leaf figs, it is advised. Ficus lyrata is a woody plant that roots readily, although generally speaking, woody plants are far more challenging to root than soft, non-woody (herbaceous) plants.
Before sticking the cutting, completely moisten the soil in your container after adding the propagation mix.
- This prevents the rooting hormone from being immediately washed off, as may happen if you stuck the cutting and then watered it in. It also stabilizes the soil to better support the cutting.
“Use a pencil or chopstick to make the pilot holes for your cutting. When you insert the cutting, it helps prevent tissue damage and turning off the rooting hormone.
Cut the bottom leaves instead of ripping them off to avoid damaging the cambium tissue, which could allow illness to infiltrate.
The likelihood that the entire cutting may decay increases if leaves are left attached and sitting in the soil.
Cuttings should be inserted into the container at least 1/3 of the way up so that they won’t topple over.
“To stabilize the cutting, tuck the earth around it. Even though I used a huge cutting and compacted the soil, the plant didn’t need a stake because it was moist.
How can I grow more fiddle leaf figs?
To explore if roots could develop from a single leaf, I started with a leaf and four stem cuttings. I placed the other 2 stem cuttings in damp potting soil after placing the bases of 2 stem cuttings and 1 leaf in water.
The cuttings should be kept in a water-filled, clean glass vase in a warm, well-lit area away from the sun. I just changed the water when it was foggy, which only happened a few times. Use tap water that is at room temperature and wait a day for the chlorine to dissipate before using.
On the stem base of the watered-down cuttings, a few tiny popcorn-like spots started to develop after 4 weeks.
Wow, roots are developing in the water after 6–8 weeks! Water replacement is not necessary at this time.
You can place the rooted Fiddle Leaf Fig cuttings in soil and watch them grow once the roots are around 1 to 2 inches long!
Can you propagate a fiddle leaf fig tree from a leaf?
Fiddle-leaf figs can be multiplied using a few various techniques, including air layering and stem or leaf cuttings, however it takes some time.
With the former, you can grow new miniature plants for your collection, as gifts, or to make use of the leaves and branches you’ve cut off. When trying to save and repot a fiddle-leaf fig that has experienced leaf drop and all of its growth has gathered at the top of a tall, barren stem, the later procedure is helpful. Here are the steps for each of these alternatives.
How can I cut a fig tree for a cutting?
A fig tree can be started from fig cuttings in one of three ways, each of which is a straightforward process. You can root figs using any of these easy, uncomplicated methods; your choice will likely depend on the local weather conditions during the dormant season.
Layering for Fig Propagation
Temperatures that never drop below freezing during the dormant season are necessary for the first way of propagating fig trees outside. By burying a low-growing branch part with 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) of the tip exposed above ground and allowing the buried portion to root before removing it from the parent tree, figs can be rooted. Although it is the most straightforward form of fig propagation, it can be challenging to maintain the ground as the branches root.
Rooting Fig Cuttings Outdoors
Fig cuttings are an increasingly common way to root figs outside. Take fig cuttings from young, two- to three-year-old tiny branches late in the dormant season, after the threat of frost has passed. They should be around the breadth of your pinky, 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1.3 to 1.9 cm) thick, and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) long. The tip should be cut on a slant and the bottom end should be flat. Apply a sealant to the disease-prone slanted end and rooting hormone to the disease-resistant flat end.
It’s preferable to use six to eight shoots when learning how to start a fig tree using this method to account for some failures. There are always several triumphs to give away!
Place the flat end of the rooted fig into a hole that is approximately a foot (30 cm) apart and 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Water thoroughly but not excessively. Your fig cuttings can develop 36 to 48 inches in length in a year (91-122 cm.). The next dormant season, the new trees will be prepared for transplant.
Rooting Figs Indoors
How to start a fig tree inside is the third method of fig propagation. If your spring weather is unpredictable, this strategy is helpful for getting started early. Use the aforementioned procedure to take fig cuttings. Newspaper should line the bottom of a 6-inch (15-cm) pot before 2 inches (5 cm) of sand or potting soil are added. Four of your treated cuttings should be placed upright in the pot, with dirt being added around them. Place a 2-liter container with the bottom cut off over the cuttings after thoroughly watering the plant.
Keep the fig cuttings warm and in a window with good light—but not direct sunlight. Water only when the soil is really dry. When you notice fresh growth, wait a week before taking down the temporary greenhouse.
If the weather permits, plant your rooted fig cuttings outside or in larger pots once you notice significant growth. For the remainder of the summer, keep the transplants moist and observe their development.
As you can see, propagating fig trees is a straightforward operation that, when carried out correctly, can be both enjoyable and cost-effective. Cheers to that!
In February of 2018, Jackye embarked on a new fiddle leaf fig voyage. As of June, the majority of her new plants had not yet experienced much new development. New cuttings must be let at least four to eight weeks to root before they can begin to generate new leaves, which can take up to six months.
Before they notice the new roots, many growers give up on their cuttings and discard them, abandoning the tiny plants before they have a chance to start sprouting new leaves. But perseverance pays off; all but three of the 61 cuttings she took produced roots.
By six weeks, the majority of Jackye’s cuttings had begun establishing new roots, but there was considerable variation. Some people got new roots in 3 or 4 weeks, while others needed 8 or 9 weeks. It’s critical to realize that every cutting is unique and that a variety of elements, including hormones, light, season, and time of day, influence the roots process. Prior to giving up on cuttings that haven’t developed roots, give them at least 10 to 12 weeks.
You Can Root Cuttings in Soil or Water
Cuttings of fiddle leaf figs can grow roots in either humid soil or water. The success of your project is unaffected by the growing medium, although there are advantages and disadvantages to each. Some of Jackye’s cuttings were rooted in both water and soil. After weighing both possibilities, she advises burying the roots in soil to avoid crushing the young, delicate roots while transferring them from water to soil. She did, however, like watching the new roots grow in the water.
A Rooting Hormone Is Critical
Use a rooting hormone whether you are rooting your cuttings in soil or water. Your plant receives instructions from the chemical powder to focus its efforts on growing roots rather than new leaves. Your prospects of success are minimal without it. On all of her cuttings, Jackye applied a substance resembling our Houseplant Propagation Promoter.
Soil Cuttings Don’t Need Drainage
For the purpose of being able to observe fresh development in both the soil- and water-rooted cuttings, Jackye rooted her cuttings in clear plastic Solo cups without any drainage holes. She never allowed them to dry out and maintained them uniformly hydrated. She put them into pots with drainage holes once the roots were strong.
Fiddle Leaf Fig Propagation Can Help Your Original Plant Grow
Jackye was pleased to observe new growth, including additional branches on each plant, after taking more than 60 cuttings from her original eight plants. Cuttings are not harmful to the mother plant when used for propagation, and they may even encourage new development.
Take Cuttings of New Growth if Possible
After a few months, Jackye found that the cuttings she took from the tops of her plants that were actively growing were the ones with the most new growth. For fresh growth, these terminal branches have already been programmed. All eight of the top cuttings she took began to establish roots and new growth in less than four months.
Jackye advises taking a branch or growing tip that is somewhere between six and eighteen inches long. Take off the leaves from the branch’s lower third or so. Place the sliced portion in potting soil after dipping it in rooting hormone. For roughly six weeks, or until you notice new roots, keep it very wet.
You can even divide a lengthy branch into multiple portions when pruning it, making care to leave a few leaves on each section. Fiddle leaf figs are quite powerful and hardy plants; Jackye even tried planting branches without leaves, and they ultimately began to grow again! Just a couple more months were needed.
Will fig cuttings germinate in liquid?
Cuttings of fig can easily take root in water. You only need a cup, some water, and a pair of clean, heavy-duty scissors or pruners. The entire process might take more than a month, but it could take as little as three weeks.
Why won’t a tree branch take root?
While some gardeners prefer to start tree cuttings off in water, others prefer to root them right in sand. For growing trees, it is always advisable to cut off parts of young branches, those that are under a year old.
With a clean, sharp pruner or knife, cut off parts of tree branch that are 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm) long to begin planting trees from twigs. Remove the buds and leaves. Apply hormone powder, which is sold in garden supply stores, to the cut end.
You have two options: either bury the base end of the cuttings in a pot filled with potting soil or submerge it in a container filled with several inches (7.5 cm) of water. If you’ve chosen to begin soaking tree cuttings in water to root them, keep adding water to the container as it depletes. Keep the soil moist if you are growing things in it.
Placing a plastic bag over the container can help keep the cuttings moist. To allow it to breathe, first make a few slits in it. Using a rubber band or string, secure the bag’s mouth around the container. Look for growing roots.
After you’ve successfully rooted tree cuttings in soil or water, you can move the young plant to a bigger container or even a ready-made bed. During the first growth season, it’s essential to maintain soil moisture so that the young tree can establish a sturdy root system.
When practicing tree branch growth, it is best to initiate far more cuttings than you anticipate needing. You are more likely to receive a few healthy new trees as a result.
Can you cut a fiddle leaf fig’s stem?
Similar to sculpting a masterpiece, shaping your fiddle leaf fig requires that you start with an idea of what you want the finished product to look like.
To ensure that the remaining foliage looks balanced, I find it helpful to label all the branches you want to remove with colorful tape or a Post-it Note before you begin. To lessen the risk of shock, start out gently and never remove more than 10% of your plant at once.
Decide on Your Ideal Shape
Fiddle leaf fig plants often have one of two shapes: a bush or a tree.
Smaller plants are typically bushier, whereas larger plants are typically more fashioned like trees. You might want to start shaping your little plant into a tree as it grows. Choose whether you want to prune your plant to maintain its compact bush shape or to give it a correct tree shape.
Plan to Remove Damaged Leaves or Branches
So that you can arrange to eliminate the least healthy parts of your plant first, evaluate the general health of each branch and group of leaves. Mark any sections that need to be removed if there are any leaves with brown spots or branches with smaller leaf growth.
Remove Crossing Branches
To increase airflow and relieve crowding, you should eliminate some portions of densely populated branches. You should take care of any branches that touch each other as well as any leaves that are preventing one another’s leaves from growing.
Create Your Ideal Shape
Any growth that is 8 to 10 inches or less from the ceiling, the surrounding walls, or the furniture should be planned for removal. Next, cut off any growth that does not conform to your ideal shape.
Remove lower leaves and branches to reveal a good trunk if you want to create a tree-like shape. Remove gangly or ugly growth if your plant is out of balance to give it a more appealing overall form.
How to Make Your Cuts
Pruning should begin once you’ve marked the sections you want to cut out and made sure you like the way the tree looks in its finished form. When pruning your plant, make sure the cutting motion does not crush or harm the stem by using a sharp, clean tool.
Cut each one away from the trunk or any leaves by about a half-inch. With no chance of infection spreading to the main trunk or any surviving leaves, this enables your plant to heal properly. In order to prevent the spread of bacteria and diseases, pick up and dispose of any falling leaves or garbage.
New Growth After Pruning
If your plant is healthy, it will typically divide the branch where it was pruned, producing two branches where one once was.
Eventually, this creates the impression of a fuller, healthier plant. Your plant might only continue to develop one branch where it was clipped if it is in pain or isn’t getting enough light. To encourage more growth, give access to plenty of light after pruning.
Fertilize After Pruning
Fertilize your plant frequently after pruning to promote new growth and aid in the plant’s recovery from the shock of pruning. (Are you unsure of the ideal fertilizer for your fiddle leaf fig? Test out our plant food! Within a few weeks to a month after pruning your plant, you ought to notice new growth.