Like grooming your dog or cat, pruning your plant is crucial to keeping it healthy and attractive. Pruning your fiddle leaf fig prevents weed growth and maintains its health. You should prune your plant for a number of reasons.
Remove Damaged Leaves and Stems
To promote the general health of your plant, you can safely remove any leaves with significant brown spots or holes. A damaged or ill leaf depletes your plant’s nutrients and increases the risk of infection. Any time of year, get rid of any leaves that are broken or ill right away.
Keep Your Plant From Getting Too Tall
Healthy fiddle leaf fig plants have a tendency to grow aggressively toward the sun, which could cause them to become too big or tall for their environment. You should cut back any growth over that height since plants look their best when their upper leaves are at least 8 to 10 inches below the ceiling. You can make your plant stronger and more compact by trimming it to prevent it from growing too tall.
Give Your Plant Balance
Depending on where your plant is getting its light, it may grow sideways toward the nearest window, which can leave your plant lopsided or off balance. Rotate your plant frequently so that it develops symmetrically to avoid this. Even after pruning, plants can still go out of balance, which will assist prevent uneven growth.
Decrease Crowded Areas
To stay healthy, fiddle leaf fig leaves require airflow and room. The leaves on your plant may become damaged by rubbing against one another if it becomes overly compact and crowded. Pruning will help to spread out crowded regions.
Shape Your Plant
Due to their restricted exposure to sunlight when grown indoors, fiddle leaf fig plants can develop unique morphologies. They might develop sideways rather than upwards toward the sun as they would if they were growing outside.
The lowest leaves will also fall off in the wild because of a lack of sunshine. Lower leaves, though, may still receive plenty of light inside and stay on the plant. The desired tree-like shape may be destroyed as a result. You should cut off lower leaves and branches that are spreading out too much in order to shape your plant so that it looks best in the area where it is placed.
Should I remove the fiddle leaf fig leaves that have brown spots?
Since poor drainage is typically the cause of root rot, you should improve your drainage as soon as possible. A well-draining container, quick-draining potting soil, and infrequent watering are all important.
In order to proceed, you should first evaluate the damage. You don’t need to repot your plant if the leaves just have a few brown spots. Allow your plant to dry out for at least two weeks to give the roots enough time to recover. Make sure your plant receives adequate sunshine and remove any damaged leaves.
Use a moisture meter to check that the roots of your plant are drying out in between waterings if you’re unsure whether they are wet. With the right drainage and watering, your plant should then recover. For additional information on appropriate watering, visit our ultimate watering guide here.
However, you should do root surgery and repot your fiddle leaf fig if the damage is significant or spreading quickly.
Take your plant out of the pot, then hose the root ball down. Remove any mushy, brown roots. Make sure your drainage is adequate and repot your house plants in soil that dries quickly. To prevent the issue from recurring in the future, adopt good watering habits.
We’ve spent over a year developing a treatment to guard your plant from root rot infections in case your fiddle leaf fig still needs assistance or you want to protect it in the future.
Should I trim the fig tree’s leaves?
You should be aware of what those bottom leaves do before selecting when to remove them.
Lower foliage has the same function as that fresh, vibrant growth up top: the leaves work to mix that green chlorophyll, commonly known as “the meat of the leaf,” with sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water to produce sap, the plant’s own sweet food.
So let them alone if you want the trunk, roots, and new growth to continue receiving energy from the sun through the foliar producers and absorbing it.
Another advantage of the lower leaves is that this is typically where the most frequent watering issues show up. To put it another way, many owners of fiddles may detect overwatering and underwatering based on early warning indicators from these bottom leaves. You lose access to one of the plant’s early warning systems if you remove them.
Remember, those lower leaves are HELPING that tree to become a tree-shape and should be left till the very last phase of the shaping process.
Once more, deciding whether or not to remove these lower leaves depends on what they do for the plant.
Are fiddle leaf fig leaves regenerative?
It is rather simple to identify the root of your fiddle leaf fig’s negative attitude if it is anything other than green and full. Indoor fiddle leaf figs typically have a problem with either light, irrigation, or both. You can restore its health with a little work before it’s too late. Simply keep an eye out for the warning symptoms listed below and administer the appropriate treatment.
One thing to remember with fiddle leaf figs is that once a leaf is injured, it can’t truly be repaired. We’re diagnosing the issue and taking action to maintain the plant’s health going ahead. The tree will likely stop providing energy to the injured leaves when new growth begins to emerge, and they will eventually dry up and fall off. Last week, I got home to precisely that circumstance. The lowest leaf on the tree with damage was this one. The plant consumed all of its resources until it was entirely dried out, at which point it let go of it.
Unlike rubber plants, which can recover fallen leaves, fiddle leaf figs cannot. Because once the leaf is gone, it’s gone, maintaining their health is crucial.
How can brown stains on fiddle leaf fig leaves be treated?
Symptoms of overwatering include brown spots or shaded regions along the borders and in the middle of the leaves, as well as yellowing foliage and leaf drop (lower leaves often dropping first).
One of the most frequent issues with fiddle leaf figs is overwatering. A fungal condition known as root rot might occur if your plant receives too much water. You’ll likely see spots and leaf drop on older leaves first if root rot is the cause.
How to Fix It: Make sure your plant receives enough of indirect sunshine and let it totally dry out before rehydrating to prevent root rot. With clean shears, you can remove any dark and mushy roots that may have developed as well as cut the leaves’ brown edges and patches.
Brown stains beginning on the edges of the leaves, curling leaves from the edges inward, and leaf drop are signs of underwatering (can affect all leaves on the plant, not just the lower leaves).
Dry, hard soil that retreats and shrinks away from the edge of the pot is another sign that your fiddle leaf figs are underwatered.
Follow a regular watering routine to fix it. The top inch of soil around fiddle leaf figs usually has to be watered once per week or when it seems dry to the touch. Try running a humidifier nearby or sprinkling the leaves with water once every one to three days to raise the humidity in the air to help counteract dry air.
Watering Tips
When it comes to their watering routine, fiddle leaf figs need consistency. Set a weekly reminder to give your Fiddle Leaf a drink. By following this timetable, you can prevent overwatering or underwatering your plant. However, it is crucial to check that the pot your plant is in has adequate drainage, since if it does not, your watering schedule may become messed up.
Must I get rid of the burned leaves?
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We’ve experienced our fair share of brown, decaying leaves as we’ve learned how to properly care for various home plants over the years. We weren’t sure at first whether to take them out or leave them. Here is what we’ve discovered works the best.
Do you need to remove the dead leaves? Yes. Your indoor plants should have brown and withering leaves removed as quickly as possible, but only if they are more than 50% damaged. By removing these leaves, the plant looks better and the healthy foliage that is left can receive more nutrients.
Even though it might appear straightforward, there’s more to it than merely cutting those leaves off. To keep your plant healthy, you must assess how much of the leaf is dying and then carefully remove the damaged areas.
Severe dryness
You could be better off giving up and buying a new fiddle if practically all of your leaves have dried out from extreme dehydration and several of your branches have died.
If a portion of the trunk or stem is still alive, you technically could resurrect your fiddle, but it would take a lot of time and attention. Many violin owners just don’t want to do that since then you’d have to chop off all the dead parts and essentially start over. Think of this as your “practice fiddle and begin again with a fresh, wholesome tree. Also, remember to water it this time!
Severe bacterial infection
It is quite challenging to treat bacterial infections once they have affected the majority of the leaves. Furthermore, such illnesses may really spread to your other indoor plants!
For the sake of your sanity and the wellbeing of your other houseplants, you should give up if those medium-brown blotches persist despite your efforts. If you intend to reuse the pot, make sure to carefully clean the violin before placing it in the trash so it won’t come into contact with any other plants.
Severe root rot
It could be simpler to purchase a new plant if the majority of your fiddle’s root system has rotted away or if root rot has caused your tree to lose almost all of its leaves.
Make sure to dispose of the plant away from other plants, just as you would with a bacterial problem. If you’re not careful, root rot can still spread to other houseplants even though it doesn’t spread as quickly as other bacterial illnesses do. Before utilizing the pot for another plant, make sure to give it a thorough cleaning.
Complete leaf loss
Even though the stem or trunk of your tree is still technically alive, it’s okay to buy a new plant if all or almost all of its leaves have fallen off.
It will take a lot of work to repair the tree and encourage it to grow again, and it will take a long time before your tree is restored to anything approximating its former splendor. Severe leaf loss frequently indicates a major condition that could possibly be harming the roots. It’s ok to purchase a new fiddle if you’re not up to the challenge. Nothing to judge here.
Before properly mastering fiddle leaf fig maintenance, it’s not unusual for owners to go through a few fiddles. That’s okay!
Bring that fiddle back to life if you enjoy giving plants that are close to passing away a second chance! However, it’s acceptable to give it a few attempts if all you want is a vibrant green plant to liven up your room.
How can a fiddle leaf tree be revived?
Secret No. 6: Avoid letting a sick fiddle-leaf fig tree fully dry up. Make sure any extra water drains out the bottom of the pot when watering it once or twice per week. (I water mine in the shower and keep it there for a couple of hours so the pot can drain, then I put it back on the plant saucer.)
Secret No. 7: Even if the container is so tight that roots are visible at the surface, wait to transplant it until you notice fresh growth.
In conclusion, letting your fiddle-leaf fig tree heal slowly on its own is the greatest thing you can do to ensure its survival. Give it filtered sunlight, water once a week, and warm environments (a room temperature between 60 and 90 degrees would do). Furthermore, if there is even a remote chance that the temperature may drop below freezing overnight, don’t leave it outside.
Are you also attempting to preserve your fiddle-leaf fig? The Fig and I: 10 Tips for Caring for a Fiddle-Leaf Fig has more advice. Visit Fiddle-Leaf Fig Trees: A Field Guide in our selected plant guide for Tropicals 101 for additional growing, maintenance, and design advice.
Finally, consult our Creeping Fig: A Field Guide for additional guidance on how to effectively plant, nurture, and maintain a creeping fig.
Get additional tips on planting, growing, and caring for fiddle-leaf fig trees by reading our Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree: A Field Guide.
Finally, use our Houseplants: A Field Guide to learn more about how to grow and care for different houseplants.
Are you looking for additional tropical plants for your indoor or outdoor space? With the help of Tropical Plants: A Field Guide, you can learn more about how to cultivate and care for different tropical plants.
Finally, consult our Vines & Climbers: A Field Guide for more guidance on how to cultivate and maintain a variety of vines and climbers.
Must I remove the leaves from cuttings?
Several difficulties must be addressed in order to successfully reproduce plants from cuttings. A cutting can no longer absorb water once it has been removed from the parent plant, and significant water loss will cause death. It is more prone to illnesses because of the cut’s wound. If the young plant is to survive, new roots must grow as soon as feasible.
Decreasing Water Loss
Start with cuttings that have the most water in them. The day before, give the plant plenty of water, then make the cut before the heat of the day depletes its water supply.
Excessive water loss must be avoided when the cutting is gathered. Limiting water loss by:
1. Complete the cutting right away. If this is not possible, store the cutting out of direct sunlight by standing the cut end in water or putting it in a plastic bag with a wet paper towel. If the plant can withstand frost, put the bagged clipping in the fridge.
2. Take some of the leaves off the stem before cutting it. By reducing the leaf surface, you also reduce the quantity of water loss because the leaves are where the majority of the water is lost. Remove between half and two thirds of the leaves, as a general rule of thumb. If the remaining leaves are huge, cut them in half.
3. Cover the pot with a plastic bag after the cutting has been cleaned and placed in the rooting medium. Put wooden sticks or straws around the pot’s edge to hold the bag away from the chopping. Put the pot somewhere bright, but away from direct sunshine, so that the plant won’t get too hot and the leaves will get the light they require. The plastic bag maintains a high level of humidity surrounding the leaves, which reduces the rate of water loss.
Preventing Disease
Take only healthy plants’ cuttings. Use sanitized instruments and pots to stop the transmission of disease (clean with 10 percent bleach, rinse, and let dry thoroughly). Due to the possibility of plant illnesses in garden soil, use fresh soilless potting mix.
Encouraging Root Formation
Like leaves, plant roots also require air to survive. Cuttings will rot instead of developing roots in rooting medium that is consistently wet. Any well-drained soilless potting mix is suitable, but a 50/50 blend of vermiculite and perlite holds enough water and air to allow healthy root growth. The mixture is excessively damp if your cuttings frequently rot before they take root. To boost its ability to hold air, add vermiculite or perlite.
To create new roots, cuttings expend energy. The majority of the energy in a cutting comes from photosynthesis if it has leaves. During the period of roots, expose these cuttings to bright light but avoid direct sunlight. Using hardwood cuttings devoid of leaves will cause the energy to originate from reserves kept inside the woody stem. Choose shoots that are strong for the species to achieve the greatest outcomes. Make sure to remove any blooms or fruits that would compete with the new roots for energy since you want all the energy to go into the new roots.
Auxin, a hormone produced by plants naturally, promotes the growth of roots. As “rooting hormone,” several synthetic forms of auxin are offered. Even though some plants may root easily without assistance, applying rooting hormone to the cutting’s base will frequently increase your chances of success. The most widely used synthetic auxins are IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid). They come in both liquid and powder form and in a variety of concentrations. For herbaceous and softwood cuttings, 1,000 ppm (0.1 percent) is frequently employed; for semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings, 3,000 ppm (0.3 percent) and 8,000 ppm (0.8 percent) are frequently utilized. For cuttings of softwood or hardwood, a low or high concentration of liquid formulations can be employed. Follow the directions on the product label, the basic suggestions just provided, or consult the references mentioned at the conclusion of this publication to establish the proper concentration for your cutting.
Put the required quantity of rooting hormone in a different container before using it. After processing the clippings, any leftover material should be thrown away rather being put back in its original container. By taking these safety measures, you can keep the rooting hormone bottle from becoming contaminated.
Warm rooting mix will help cuttings root more reliably and quickly. Avoid overheating your cuttings by keeping them between 65° and 75°F. Consider a heating mat or cable made specifically for this if your space is too cold.