A fungal infection can develop from the roots to the leaves of fiddle leaf figs when they are very wet, resulting in the browning and eventual loss of the leaves. Remove the damaged roots and leaves and then repot the plant in fresh soil if the roots look to be brown and mushy.
How can you know whether a fiddle leaf fig is infected with bacteria?
Fiddle-leaf figs, also known as Ficus lyrata for those of us who like to get a bit plant nerdy, are still very popular and are currently making a big splash in fashion blogs and publications. They are indeed stunning, but they also have a tendency to act like diva sometimes. Unfortunately, these alluring plants do not fall under the easy-care umbrella. They aren’t very challenging, but they aren’t the kind you can plant and leave alone either. Here, we discuss general maintenance as well as some specific issues with and remedies for fiddle leaf figs.
Location and light
It applies to almost everything, and fiddle leaf figs are no exception. These people will let you know if they’re not satisfied, and location counts. Temperature and light are the two key locational factors. Fiddle-leaf figs prefer windows that face east because they receive brilliant, indirect light all day long as well as less intense morning light. A north facing window will probably be too dark, while direct sunlight from a south or west facing window will be too harsh (although a fiddle-leaf will be fine if it’s far enough away from the windows).
Fiddle leaves don’t like extreme temperature changes. These plants can suffer from door drafts, chilly windows during the winter, and hot air from heat registers. Just be aware of where these offenders are and position your fiddle leaf accordingly.
Water
The majority of fig problems start here, and they can be caused by both too much and too little irrigation.
When the top few inches of soil are dry, water. not earlier. Additionally, if the soil is completely dry, water it naturally, but keep in mind that the soil would have been happy if it had received water sooner. New leaves fall off due to inadequate watering, while adult leaves turn brown from the margins inward and eventually fall off due to overwatering. Water is forced through till it spills out of the container’s bottom into a saucer. Make sure to empty the saucer of any water that has accumulated there. Root rot and leaf browning can result from sitting in water.
Fiddles are indigenous to tropical regions, like so many indoor plants. As a result, they require humidity, which our homes simply do not have throughout the winter. Put a saucer with rocks and some shallow water underneath the fig container or put them next to other plants to aid them. These methods aid in increasing the humidity in the environment around the fig.
Bacteria
Cracking leaves and brown blotches with an odd form can indicate a bacterial illness. The best course of action is to prevent this problem, so when watering, keep leaves dry and remove any leaf litter that may fall into the pot. Like any plant, fiddle leaf figs thrive in a clean environment.
Fungal infection
Browning of the leaves is a fungal condition caused by both root rot and leaf spot. Don’t overwater plants; root rot results from too-wet roots, and leaf spot results from too-wet leaves. Check the soil’s moisture level and allow the plant dry out if leaves start to turn brown or black, curl, or fall off. Spraying with an anti-fungal like Fungonil is necessary if there are brown areas with tiny black dots inside of them, which indicates that anthracnose is likely the cause.
Insects
Brown patches might also result from feeding insects. Look out for further symptoms like mealy bug mealy dew, which is the shiny, sticky excrement produced by aphids, spider mite webbing, or little white puffy balls. To get rid of these pests, use insecticidal soap, Eight, or neem oil.
These plants are rewarding and well worth the effort despite the additional attention and care they need. Nothing makes a big impression with those large leaves like a fiddle leaf fig does without taking up too much room. Every space has the ideal placement for a fiddle leaf, whether it be in a corner, a narrow space, or at the side of a couch or chair.
Potential Cause 1: Root Rot
Brown stains on the roots from a fungus caused by too much moisture. Root rot is brought by by over watering and bad drainage, and it eventually affects your plant’s leaves.
How to Correct It
Removing the pot and looking at the roots is the only way to be confident that your plant has root rot. Root rot is at blame if the roots are mushy and discolored. Let your plant dry out for around two weeks if there are only a few brown patches on the leaves so that the roots have enough time to heal.
Make sure your plant gets enough light, and remove any damaged leaves. If there are several brown patches, you should remove any brown, mushy roots and the affected leaves before repotting the plant and being careful not to overwater it in the future.
Potential Cause 2: Bacterial Infection
In addition to the brown spots, your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will yellow as a result of bacterial leaf spot. In contrast to bacterial leaf spot, which causes the leaf to turn yellow as the brown spot spreads, root rot often causes the leaves to remain dark green with brown patches. Your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will eventually drop off due to both bacterial leaf spot and root rot. Since bacterial leaf spot tends to feed on new growth, it is likely to be to fault if your younger leaves are suffering more than your older leaves.
Unfortunately, this is the Fiddle Leaf Fig condition that is most difficult to treat. It can already be too late for your plant, even with the right care and watering. Cut off all of the leaves that have brown spots if the damage is not severe, then repot your plant in new, sterile soil. While it is healing, give it lots of light and don’t water as frequently.
Potential Cause 3: Insect Damage
Although uncommon, insect illnesses leave clear signs. Check your plant for webs or insects using a magnifying glass. Small patches that develop into holes on the leaves are a sure sign of insect damage.
Treatment for insect infestations is simple. Use neem oil products made specifically for indoor plants. Alternately, you might make your own cure by mixing a few teaspoons of mineral oil and baking soda in a spray bottle with water. Spray the entire affected area of the plant after thoroughly shaking the solution. Your other houseplants should not be near diseased plants. Neem oil has an overpowering odor, so move your plant outside if you can. Spray your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves with a strong mist. Don’t forget to spray the area where the leaf meets the stem after turning each leaf to cover the underside. If more spraying is required, wait two weeks, inspect once more, then repeat the process.
Potential Cause 4: Your Plant is Too Dry
Dry tan or brown regions that originate at the edge of the leaf and force the leaf to curl make dry plant brown spots simpler to identify. Your plant will occasionally appear dry or wilted overall, and the dirt may have retreated from the pot (shrinkage). This may result in the water never reaching the root ball and instead running between the pot and the soil.
Consider transferring your Fiddle Leaf Fig to a more moderate area if it is currently close to a heater or in an extremely dry environment. When the soil is 50 to 75 percent dry, water as needed, and keep an eye on your plant to make sure it’s getting enough hydration. Use a humidifier close to your plant or try misting it once to three days. Make sure the root ball of your plant is completely submerged in water by giving it a long sip. Make sure the pot’s bottom is dripping with water. Before placing the plant back on its saucer, let it to rest and drain any extra water.
How should a sick fig tree be treated?
Fungi are by far the most problematic pathogens for fig trees. Fungi that cause fig disease can infect almost any part of the plant, including the interior tissues, fruits, and leaves. Once some fungal infections have taken hold, there isn’t much that can be done, so always maintain proper hygiene and watch how much water you’re giving your figs to lessen the chance of fungal germination.
- “Fig Rust” In the late summer or early fall, this fungus causes leaves to become yellow-brown and fall off. Numerous rust-colored dots can be seen on the underside of the leaves when they are examined. Even while they are usually not lethal, fig rust infestations can weaken your plant over time. Neem oil may eradicate a little rust infestation, but clearing away fallen objects will frequently stop fig rust from spreading.
- Leaf Spot
- Another fungus that damages leaves is called Pellicularia kolerga (leaf blight), but it produces spots that start off yellow and look wet. Water-soaked spots spread and dry out as the condition worsens, leaving a papery surface in their wake. A web-like mat of fungal organisms may adhere to the underside of the leaf and cause thin holes to tear out or the entire leaf to brown and die. The only means of control is sanitation; as soon as signs of infection appear, remove these leaves, and keep infected waste off the ground.
- Red Blight
- Pink blight, unquestionably the most vivid of the typical fig problems, frequently affects the inside of overgrown figs and manifests as a pink to white, velvety covering on sickly or dead branches. If the fungus is not treated, it can spread from these dead tissues into healthy ones and eventually kill entire trees. Thinning down up to a third of the smaller growth will allow you to open the inside of your fig and create enough of space for air circulation. Remove any sick tissues and kill them right away.
How does cinnamon affect fiddle leaf figs?
Being a professional violinist, it probably comes as no surprise that the totally “in vogue” Ficus lyrata, often known as the Fiddle-Leaf Fig, is one of my favorite house plants.
I particularly enjoy the Fiddle-Leaf Fig’s rich, full leaves, though, and have found that caring for the two I own has been a complete joy – yep, you can’t just have one!
However, they have a well-deserved reputation for being challenging to maintain, but I have to disagree! Because their leaves aren’t too delicate and they can withstand a little drought better than my ferns, they are actually some of my easiest plants.
Therefore, I decided to give five of my BEST care advice in today’s post so you can confidently fall madly in love with your own Fiddly companion!
NO SENSUAL MOOD LIGHTING FOR THESE BEAUTIES!
You’ll have to realize that your intense love affair will only be a Summer Fling, even though your stunning, glossy new companion might appear simply tempting huddled beneath the stairway!
Fiddle-Leaf Figs require a LOT of indirect, bright light, so you should place them where they have a nice view of the sky but aren’t always bathed in direct sunshine (since this might burn the leaves). However, for the majority of the day, they both sit in rather bright, indirect light! A few hours of early morning sun is entirely safe, and in my experience, has encouraged my fiddles to grow, notably Frederick shown here!
First Fiddle Leaf I acquired, my smaller fig (not shown) spent the majority of the year quite dormant in the low-moderate light area of my stairwell. He underperformed significantly, so I transferred him to his new home on the landing a few months ago, and he is now LOVING LIFE! Our skylights allow him to receive much greater indirect light, and this season, he has developed SEVEN leaves.
LET THEM GET A LITTLE THIRSTY!
Overwatering is the most typical reason for a fiddle leaf fig’s demise. I am aware that it can be really difficult to resist dousing your lovely Fiddle in affection, but if you give him more water than he requires, you will drown his roots and destroy him.
Because every Fig is unique and every lighting situation is unique—factors that affect a Fiddle Leaf’s ability to use water—I won’t provide a detailed watering schedule for your plant. However, a good test to determine your plant’s thirstiness is to stick your finger one inch into the soil. Only water him if he feels dry! And when you do water him, make sure you water him well and deeply, letting the water drain out the pot’s bottom!
I suggest purchasing one of these useful water meters if you lack confidence in your ability to judge when your plant is ready for a watering. They eliminate all the guesswork!
But I will advise that your plant will find it difficult to gulp if it doesn’t get enough light. The soil needs more light if, 10 days after watering, it still feels damp an inch below the surface in the middle of the Summer. Plants naturally consume less water in the winter, therefore I’ve discovered that my fiddles can easily go up to three weeks without watering.
The size of the plant, in my opinion, is another factor. My larger plant uses water more frequently than my smaller plant since it needs more water as it grows more leaves.
KEEP ‘EM HOT & STEAMY!
Okay, “hot” might be a bit much, but since fiddles are native to tropical areas, they have evolved to survive in hot, muggy circumstances. Since most types of house plants prefer temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (or 18 and 23 degrees Celsius), the temperature in your home probably won’t be a problem. However, humidity levels might be tricky to maintain.
Don’t be tempted to put your Fiddle directly near to the radiator just because they like warm weather; the heat might be extremely drying! Even though my enormous plant is situated close to a split-system air conditioner, I have angled the vents so that they don’t directly hit it, and it seems to be content.
By placing a plant on top of a pebble tray or utilizing a humidifier, you may make your home more humid!
RUB A DUB DUB, YOUR BOY NEEDS A SCRUB!
While over-showering your fiddle’s roots won’t make him happy, you CAN give him a good old-fashioned sponge bath to show him some regular lovin’! We adore Fiddles because of their large, gorgeous, glossy leaves, but they are prone to collecting dust, so give the leaves a good clean down on a regular basis. He’ll not only look his best, but he’ll also be kept bug-free thanks to it!
HELP – MY FIDDLE HAS AN STI!
Ah, the dreaded “Soil-Tampering Insects,” also known as fungus gnats or the plant equivalent of herpes. These tiny, unwanted visitors are more of a nuisance than anything else, won’t hurt larger, established plants, but may do so to seedlings. If you’ve recently added any type of home plant, you may have also seen the appearance of some little, tiny flies that seem much more curious than your normal house fly — I’ve had several try to fly into my nose and have discovered numerous in my glasses of tea… GROSS!
But a long back, my dear friend Rachel Aust shared with me a fantastic tip about using cinnamon to help keep them at away! Seriously, what a simple and inexpensive fix! Once a week for a few weeks, simply sprinkle a thin coating on the surface of your soil after watering. Killing the larvae that the adult flies deposit in the soil will be beneficial!
Neem oil has also shown to be a very effective natural remedy for other pests like spider mites, in my experience.
BONUS TIP: SATIATE HIS HUNGER!
I’m still learning how to feed plants, but I thought I’d share what I’ve been using to feed my ravenous houseplants! Over the course of the Spring and Summer, I dispense one pipette of this wonderful little plant food from The Plant Runner Truck into my tiny watering can and water my plants with it. It seems to be working really well.