How To Support Fiddle Leaf Fig

You can stake the trunk of a fiddle leaf fig to keep it upright if you need a quick fix to save it. By no means is this a long-term fix because staking will prevent your tree from developing the necessary strength to maintain itself.

While you do other things to strengthen the trunk, such fertilizing, correctly watering, offering lots of light, and regularly wiggling, staking can at least train your fiddle to grow straight.

To stake your tree, buy a stake the same length as the trunk of your tree and drive it into the ground near the trunk. Then use plant tape or ties to fasten the trunk to the stake.

Every few weeks or whenever you wriggle the trunk to test whether it can stand on its own, remove the stake. With regular maintenance, your trunk should begin to strengthen after a few months.

Do fiddle leaf figs require assistance?

The Fiddle Leaf Fig, known as “the darling of the houseplant world,” is a well-liked but notoriously difficult indoor plant. However, if you’ve discovered the correct balance and routine with this beauty, it can be an amazingly low care and quick growing plant. It can be a little particular about its light and water needs.

But what happens if it expands too quickly? Fiddle Leaf Figs are one example of a plant that can become fairly top-heavy and frequently grow unevenly (particularly if you don’t routinely rotate it). Our Plant Doctors advise staking the plant as a temporary fix to help it develop stronger roots and stand up straight if this is the situation with your Fiddle.

Staking can be used for practically any leaning plant with a trunk, even though it is most frequently utilized for trees and plants with fiddle-leaf figs. The following are easy procedures for staking your plant:

What is causing my fiddle leaf fig to collapse?

Lover of Fiddle Leaf Figs, welcome back! Recently, people have been asking me more and more questions about their FLFs, which is fantastic because I love assisting you guys! In terms of what people require assistance with, I’ve begun to see some themes over time.

How to reinforce a fiddle leaf fig trunk that is weak or leaning is one of the most frequent queries I receive. Perhaps your FLF is sagging or is reluctant to stand up straight. The good news is that getting children to stand straight and strongly won’t take as long as you would think.

I brought my first FLF outside to rinse off the leaves when it was about 3 feet tall. It was upright within on its own. However, when it was exposed to the light breeze outside, it stooped almost to the ground. I had to keep it outside until the hose-down leak stopped, but I was terrified it might just break in half. I made an effort to keep it upright, but anytime I let go, it always appeared to want to touch the ground. “Weeping face” If only I had a picture to show you!

So I picked up a few bamboo stakes and set it back upright. Staking is excellent for an immediate, short-term repair like this. The bad news is that staking won’t make your plant stronger! Additionally, you won’t want to stake your plant in place indefinitely.

When a plant is staked, it never really strengthens because it doesn’t have to try to maintain itself. The good news is that you can get your ficus growing well on its own by following a few easy steps.

Here’s my steps on How to Strengthen a

Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaning:

1. FLFs are fans of light!

Your FLF’s health depends greatly on light. The leaves on your FLF will cluster together when it receives enough light. The trunk is greatly supported by this. They will’search’ for more light when they don’t have enough. If there is more than about an inch between leaves (referred to as the “inter-nodal space”), you will notice this. Your FLF can appear lanky or perhaps lean towards the direction of the closest window.

More chance for bending exists when there is more space between the leaves. Older growth won’t be fixed by giving your plant more light, but any new growth that appears should be stronger and more closely spaced.

Make sure your FLF is getting enough light first, then! They typically require more than we realize, I’ve discovered. If they’re indoors, it’s preferable to place them directly before a window. They can even grow in full-day sunlight in the natural world.

One fast hint is that reducing the inter-nodal distance can also be accomplished by using a fertilizer that has been carefully designed. For FLFs, I suggest Botanicare Grow Fertilizer.

To promote even growth, turn the pot as you water it each week. You might want to use a grow light to supplement some of the light if you can’t move your FLF closer to natural illumination. Read this simple tutorial to grow lights.

Because the leaves are so dispersed throughout the stem, you can tell that this FLF below needed additional light:

2. The Trunk’s Air Flow Will Be Trained

You won’t find a FLF that is unable to sustain itself in nature. Why? owing to air flow! A FLF must learn to endure the power of the wind when it is outdoors. It grows straighter and stronger as a result, with stronger trunks and stems.

Recall how my poor FLF hunched over the moment a breeze appeared? It is now taller and stronger than ever and spends half the year outside!

The majority of our beloved FLFs spend their lives indoors, which prevents them from having enough airflow to strengthen their trunks. Fiddle Leaf Figs eventually risk leaning due to the weight of their large leaves. FLFs are naturally top-heavy since the leaves get bigger and bigger as they ascend.

A new FLF that I recently purchased had a stem that was buckling beneath the weight of its fresh, big leaves. I placed it outside, and after a couple of weeks, the stem had become much stronger and straighter. Really, the breeze gets to work in no time at all!

Don’t be reluctant to let your FLF spend some time outside in a gentle breeze because they can withstand quite a bit of bending. You might want to loosely stake it while outside to keep it upright if it’s significantly crooked like my first one was or if you’re concerned that it’s too frail.

You should keep in mind that your FLF will require favorable outdoor circumstances. They prefer temperatures over 65°F (18°C), so be cautious to gradually acclimate them to any more sun exposure.

I hear you asking, “What if you can’t get your FLF outside?” There is a solution for it as well!

3. Make the trunk move

Are you serious? Of course! Many success tales of folks who strengthened their FLF trunks by wriggling them have been told to me.

The trunk basically imitates the wind by wriggling. This may require a little more work if you can’t get your FLF outside, but it will still work.

Take your FLF trunk and start to jiggle it from side to side two to three times every day. They can withstand quite an amount of movement, as I have indicated. Therefore, don’t be frightened to bend quite a bit! Spend around ten minutes on this.

Your FLF may take longer to strengthen with this procedure than it would under normal circumstances, but you should see benefits in a few weeks.

Why should I Wiggle my Fiddle leaf fig?

Your indoor tree’s trunk can be moved to simulate wind, which will help you become more resilient outside. You can also leave your tree outside for extended periods of time to strengthen its trunk and expose it to the elements. Once you get the leaves inside, be sure to inspect them for bugs.

What are the best growing conditions for an indoor fiddle leaf fig tree?

Know that your fiddle leaf fig tree prefers moderate temperature changes and place it in a sunny spot within the house. The tree should be planted in a container with well-draining soil that is kept humid but not soggy since this might cause root rot.

Why isn’t my fiddle leaf fig tree flowering?

You should be careful not to overwater your fiddle leaf fig because it is prone to root rot. When storing the fig within a container, make sure the bottom has lots of holes to allow for proper drainage.

How do I fix a leggy fiddle leaf fig tree?

Give a leggy or tilted fiddle leaf fig tree bright, filtered sunshine as treatment. Please place your plant in the area of the house that gets the most indirect sunlight, which is usually six to eight hours per day. Don’t keep it in the Sun for too long, though; doing so could scorch the leaves.

Will wiggling my fiddle leaf fig tree weaken its roots?

Every one to two weeks, wiggle your fiddle leaf fig tree for 1.5 to 2 minutes to significantly thicken the trunk. Beginning with light shaking, progressively build up the force. If your plant is stake-supported, move it about at first with the support in place. You can take the stake out once your fig tree has gotten used to this practice.

Do fig trees require staking?

Anyone should be able to successfully plant a potted fig tree because it is a relatively simple operation.

I had never planted any trees before receiving this plot of land as an inheritance. But having done it multiple times afterwards, I’ve discovered that the method I’m about to describe is the best for planting the potted fig tree. read on to view images and a video:

  • Step 1: Purchase a potted fig tree. Usually, I buy potted trees at the neighborhood nursery. A tree should be purchased when it is around a year old. If you buy older trees, there’s a potential that their rooting system has already been established, making it harder for roots to grow and develop a robust structure. (Update: I now also propagate fresh fig trees from cuttings.)
  • Find a nice site in step two.
  • Where would be the ideal location to plant a fig tree? Figs prefer a warm, sunny environment. If you can find such a spot in your garden, your fig tree will flourish there and bear fruit for many years to come.
  • Step 3: Get the ground ready
  • Before any planting, the ground must be properly prepared. Soft ground is ideal for young fig trees. It encourages roots to grow widely and freely.
  • 4th step: Make a hole
  • Verify the depth of the hole. Typically, I make a hole twice as deep as a plant pot. It provides me with plenty of room to add fertilizer and a layer of dirt on top to stop fertilizer from harming tender roots.
  • Add organic fertilizer in step five.
  • For my brand-new plants, I typically apply organic farm manure. If you can’t find it, an excellent substitute is to get some organic dry manure pallet fertilizer from your neighborhood gardening supply store.
  • Step 6: Fill a bucket with water.
  • We need a lot of water. Large buckets of water should be filled and then allowed to settle in the hole.
  • Step 7: Soak the fig tree container for a few minutes before planting it is a good idea to soak the entire container in water before planting it in the ground to moisten the tree’s roots well.
  • Step 8: Take the tree out of the container and insert it properly into the hole.
  • The appropriate depth should be the same as where the tree was originally put in its container.
  • Step 9: Fill up another bucket with water.
  • I always add another bucket of water before filling up the remaining portions of the hole to give the tree a head start in its new home.
  • 10th step: plug the hole
  • Make sure there are no air pockets inside the hole before carefully filling it with soil (dirt) to surround the newly planted tree. To ensure that the roots are totally covered and that there is no air around them, step slowly around the tree several times (see the video).
  • Step 11: Insert a support stake or stick
  • 30 cm distant from the tree, put a supporting stick. To stop a severe wind from damaging the tree, take a piece of elastic rope and tie it to a stick. The rope needs to be both flexible and sturdy. You can purchase some plant ties at your neighborhood gardening store if you are unsure of which rope to use. Whether or not you stake a tree depends on whether or not you anticipate severe winds in the area where your fig tree is placed. I keep supporting sticks for up to a year because my land faces north-east and is relatively vulnerable to north winds. By then, the fig tree will have reached maturity and will no longer require support because its roots will be deep and stable.
  • Step 12: Regularly water it.
  • Young fig trees may require regular irrigation depending on the climate. In my situation, I water my young fig trees once a week for the first year and only once a week for the second year because I live in the northern Mediterranean zone. After that time, the tree should be well-established and able to obtain enough moisture from the earth through its deep-rooted roots. I also provide some water to struggling fig trees for one or two more years during really scorching summers. In the area where I reside, well-mature fig trees (five or more years old) don’t require any additional irrigation.

How is a fig tree supported?

A fig tree can be started from fig cuttings in one of three ways, each of which is a straightforward process. You can root figs using any of these easy, uncomplicated methods; your choice will likely depend on the local weather conditions during the dormant season.

Layering for Fig Propagation

Temperatures that never drop below freezing during the dormant season are necessary for the first way of propagating fig trees outside. By burying a low-growing branch part with 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) of the tip exposed above ground and allowing the buried portion to root before removing it from the parent tree, figs can be rooted. Although it is the most straightforward form of fig propagation, it can be challenging to maintain the ground as the branches root.

Rooting Fig Cuttings Outdoors

Fig cuttings are an increasingly common way to root figs outside. Take fig cuttings from young, two- to three-year-old tiny branches late in the dormant season, after the threat of frost has passed. They should be around the breadth of your pinky, 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1.3 to 1.9 cm) thick, and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) long. The tip should be cut on a slant and the bottom end should be flat. Apply a sealant to the disease-prone slanted end and rooting hormone to the disease-resistant flat end.

It’s preferable to use six to eight shoots when learning how to start a fig tree using this method to account for some failures. There are always several triumphs to give away!

Place the flat end of the rooted fig into a hole that is approximately a foot (30 cm) apart and 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Water thoroughly but not excessively. Your fig cuttings can develop 36 to 48 inches in length in a year (91-122 cm.). The next dormant season, the new trees will be prepared for transplant.

Rooting Figs Indoors

How to start a fig tree inside is the third method of fig propagation. If your spring weather is unpredictable, this strategy is helpful for getting started early. Use the aforementioned procedure to take fig cuttings. Newspaper should line the bottom of a 6-inch (15-cm) pot before 2 inches (5 cm) of sand or potting soil are added. Four of your treated cuttings should be placed upright in the pot, with dirt being added around them. Place a 2-liter container with the bottom cut off over the cuttings after thoroughly watering the plant.

Keep the fig cuttings warm and in a window with good light—but not direct sunlight. Water only when the soil is really dry. When you notice fresh growth, wait a week before taking down the temporary greenhouse.

If the weather permits, plant your rooted fig cuttings outside or in larger pots once you notice significant growth. For the remainder of the summer, keep the transplants moist and observe their development.

As you can see, propagating fig trees is a straightforward operation that, when carried out correctly, can be both enjoyable and cost-effective. Cheers to that!