It’s a good idea to separate your fiddles if the soil on one of them turns rock-hard and begins to peel away from the pot’s sides because you’ll need to repot it shortly. (Just be sure to first trim the roots. This is how to do it:)
Be sure to gently massage the root ball when you unpot the plant to break up any old, dried-out soil. Take out as much of the old soil as you can from the roots.
Your fiddle (or fiddles) should be repotted in a pot that is the right size, has drainage, and is filled with new soil that drains properly.
Can fiddle leaf figs be trimmed down and replanted?
Taking a stem or leaf cutting from a fiddle leaf fig plant and letting it root in water or soil will result in a new, self-sustaining plant. Most houseplants can be propagated, albeit with different degrees of difficulty. In reality, fiddle leaf figs are rather simple to grow.
Is it possible to grow a fiddle leaf fig from just one leaf?
a single fiddle leaf with roots. Because single leaves don’t have lateral buds to produce new stems and leaves, it won’t develop into a plant. The only way it could do that is if a piece of a bud also came off with the leaf, but even then it would take years to grow.
What happens if the top of a fiddle leaf fig is chopped off?
Your fiddle leaf fig probably has no other branches that will allow it to transition from a fiddle leaf shrub to a fiddle leaf tree. In addition, bear the following in mind before proceeding:
The amount of regrowth that results from pruning depends on how severe it was. The reason for this is that the plant is trying to grow again in an effort to balance the root system below with the shoot system above, which is now designed to support the plant at its bigger size before trimming.
Usually, the most active shoot growth takes place 6 to 8 inches after the pruning cut.
Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig
Make a decision regarding the size of the Ficus lyrata cut. Once more, the branching will be more noticeable the longer a part is clipped. (And the less the plant will grow in height, at least for that shoot.)
Your fiddle leaf fig won’t be encouraged to generate as many lateral branches off of the main trunk if you simply pinch out the fresh buds at the top with your fingers.
If you want to encourage a little lateral development to make your plant appear fuller near the top, pinching is more helpful.
On the other hand, you’ll see a lot more branching if you remove 12 of the top shoots.
Choose the node that you want to cut above. The spots on stems known as nodes are where leaves, buds, or branches can grow. However, not every node has leaves or branches; some nodes may only have a mark and a slight thickening of the stem. Internodes are the parts of the stem that lie between the nodes.
3. Make use of a clean pair of pruners. Just above the top of your node, make the cut. Cut just above the node rather than into it, which would harm it.
Any plant in the fig family, including your fiddle leaf fig, will exude an oozing, milky, white sap when cut. Simply avoid eating it, getting it in your eyes, or letting it land on the carpet because it can be annoying.
4. As a final piece of advice, wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.
(Are you wondering what to do with the plant pieces you pruned? Why not cultivate a second fiddle leaf fig?
I’m done now! Now, give your new lateral buds, which will eventually grow into branches, a few weeks. While the exact length of time varies on a number of variables, your chances of success are higher if you attempt this in the spring, when fiddle leaves are actively growing, as opposed to the winter, when they are largely dormant. In comparison to winter, when the plant will need more time to heal the cut and form new buds, springtime will see rapid new development.
How are fiddle leaf fig Fullers made?
Fiddle Leaf Figs can be encouraged to branch by notching, which doesn’t entail the plant’s height being reduced. Instead, tiny cuts or “notches” are made all the way up and down the stem or trunk to promote the formation of new growth lower on the plant.
There are two distinct notching patterns. The first slashes diagonally through the FLF trunk at a depth of about one-third, immediately above a leaf or node. Similar in nature, the second involves two cuts and the removal of a tiny “chunk” or piece of the trunk. To remove a small portion of the trunk, make the two slices just 1-2 mm apart.
It might be challenging to properly notch a plant without accidently decapitating it or cutting too deeply. It’s unquestionably a more sophisticated technique with variable outcomes. If you want to try it, I also advise going numerous notches. Not all of them have a 100% success rate. So if you want two or three branches, you might want to do six notches.
The best stem for notching is one that is more aged or woody. It might be advisable to wait till your FLF stem reaches maturity if it is still green before attempting to notch.
Tips for Notching:
- You may have more control over the notch with a craft knife than with a pair of cutters.
- Directly above a leaf or node, cut the notch.
- Make the notch on a diagonal, cutting around a third into the depth of the stem.
When ought my fiddle leaf to be repotted?
For good reason, fiddle leaf figs are popular in the design world. They are a terrific modern accent in homes and businesses thanks to their enormous, architectural leaves, which create a striking statement. Despite the fig’s image as a bit of a prima donna, if you and your fig abide by a few simple rules, you and your fig can enjoy a long-lasting and fruitful relationship.
Here are some fundamental instructions for taking care of a fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata). Keep in mind that if you ever need assistance troubleshooting plant concerns, feel free to stop by our store or use the hashtag #heyswansons to share your queries on social media.
SOIL
Fiddle Leaf Figs are native to the rainforest and prefer rich, porous soil. When repotting your fig, we advise using E.B. Stone Organics “Edna’s Best” Potting Soil.
You can either gently remove the plant from its pot and search for roots that develop in a thick circle or check the bottom of the container to see whether the roots are emerging from the drainage holes.
You can repot your fig into a container that is up to a few inches larger if it has outgrown its current one. Fiddle leaf figs typically require repotting every one to two years.
Another choice is to carefully cut the root ball of a huge plant and repot it in its original container with fresh potting soil. Don’t forget to only remove 20% of the root ball.
When your plant has grown as big as your home or office will allow, you have the option of trimming the roots to prevent it from getting any bigger.
LIGHT
Give your fig a strong, indirect light source. The leaves might be burned by the afternoon sun if it is too intense. If your single window is facing South or West, try relocating the plant a little bit away from the window or put a sheer curtain in front of the window to block the sun’s rays.
WATER
Consistent watering helps fiddle leaf figs stay hydrated but not drenched. Water slowly and thoroughly until water drains out of the drainage holes in the pot, let the soil dry to about 1, and then water slowly and thoroughly one more. To prevent the plant from sitting in water, make sure to dump any remaining water from your caching pot or tray.
During the spring and summer growing seasons, water slightly more than in the winter.
If figs do not receive enough water, their leaves may start to turn brown or yellow around the margins before dropping. The roots could decay if the plant is kept too moist because they won’t be able to get oxygen. Yellowing, browning, and the dropping of the lower/older leaves are indications of overwatering, which are comparable to those of underwatering.
HUMIDITY & TEMPERATURE
The warm, muggy climate of the jungle is favorable to figs. You might put a shallow tray of water near or under your plant to boost the humidity in your house or place of business. In order to prevent the plant’s roots from sitting in standing water when the tray is placed under it, fill it with stones and maintain the water level below them.
To enhance the humidity surrounding the leaves, you might also wish to mist your plant a few times per week. In the winter, a humidifier can also work wonders to boost humidity and keep your plant content.
Floppy Leaf Figs don’t like drafts or unexpected temperature fluctuations very much. The leaves may fall from exposure to air conditioning or cold drafts from windows. When evening lows do not go below 60 degrees, they are happiest.
FERTILIZER
During the growing season, fertilize your houseplants using an all-purpose fertilizer. To avoid overfertilizing, you can either follow the instructions on the packaging or halve the recommended dosage. Additionally, if you are not repotting that year, you can add an inch or two of new potting soil each year.
PESTS
A plant under stress may become more susceptible to pests. A contented plant that is misted and well-watered will be less likely to encounter pest problems!
Aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites can all harm figs. Always be sure to check your plant’s foliage on a frequent basis. Depending on the pest attacking the plant, if you find insects, send us a picture or bring a sample in so we can suggest a suitable natural insecticide.
The plant’s leaves turning yellow and falling off are another sign. However, problems with irrigation could also be to blame. If you don’t see any pests on your plant, experiment with different watering schedules to see if the problem goes away.
OTHER TIPS
Those big, gorgeous leaves can be dust magnets! To keep your Fig gleaming and healthy, give it a once-over with a gentle, dry cloth.
Keep in mind to frequently rotate your plant to maintain uniform growth and avoid tilting!
Photos of your fiddle leaf figs are welcome! Show off your beauty by using the hashtag #heyswansons!
Why should I Wiggle my Fiddle leaf fig?
Your indoor tree’s trunk can be moved to simulate wind, which will help you become more resilient outside. You can also leave your tree outside for extended periods of time to strengthen its trunk and expose it to the elements. Once you get the leaves inside, be sure to inspect them for bugs.
What are the best growing conditions for an indoor fiddle leaf fig tree?
Know that your fiddle leaf fig tree prefers moderate temperature changes and place it in a sunny spot within the house. The tree should be planted in a container with well-draining soil that is kept humid but not soggy since this might cause root rot.
Why isn’t my fiddle leaf fig tree flowering?
You should be careful not to overwater your fiddle leaf fig because it is prone to root rot. When storing the fig within a container, make sure the bottom has lots of holes to allow for proper drainage.
How do I fix a leggy fiddle leaf fig tree?
Give a leggy or tilted fiddle leaf fig tree bright, filtered sunshine as treatment. Please place your plant in the area of the house that gets the most indirect sunlight, which is usually six to eight hours per day. Don’t keep it in the Sun for too long, though; doing so could scorch the leaves.
Will wiggling my fiddle leaf fig tree weaken its roots?
Every one to two weeks, wiggle your fiddle leaf fig tree for 1.5 to 2 minutes to significantly thicken the trunk. Beginning with light shaking, progressively build up the force. If your plant is stake-supported, move it about at first with the support in place. You can take the stake out once your fig tree has gotten used to this practice.
Where should a fiddle leaf fig be cut?
As I indicated earlier, many growers like to cultivate a traditional tree shape, complete with a distinct canopy and trunk. However, F. lyrata tends to grow in a columnar or bushy shape when kept as a houseplant.
In the wild, F. lyrata does this on its own by losing its lower leaves and growing into its original shape as a banyan tree.
like the renowned “Wild F. lyrata and ordinary banyan, F. benghalensis, both start out their lives as epiphytes. When a seed falls into another tree’s canopy, it germinates, develops, and eventually strangles its host plant as it descends to the ground.
Your houseplant won’t do this, of course, but the tree shape is attractive. How can a rambunctious F. lyrata be transformed into a tall, graceful specimen?
First off, if you’ve recently acquired a highly sought-after fiddle-leaf, hold off on starting to prune it into a tree shape.
Whatever two-thirds of the intended height means to you within the boundaries of your space, let it grow to that point. The trunk might become strong and thick as a result.
It’s advisable to top the tree out at least eight to ten inches away from the ceiling if you want it to grow tall.
This not only improves the appearance but also prevents the top leaves from bending and slamming against your ceiling.
Say, for instance, that you want to top your tree off at about seven or eight feet and that your home has nine-foot ceilings. You shouldn’t begin trimming for lateral growth until the trunk is at least five feet tall based on these measurements.
Wait until spring or summer when the plant is actively growing before pruning your fiddle-leaf fig to generate a tree form with branching lateral growth. Then, make a cut at least six inches down from the tip of the tree.
You can preserve and grow this cutting! Cut in an internodal space, if possible.
Don’t remove the leaves that are below the cut. So that the plant can photosynthesize and generate energy to grow those lateral branches, you want them to stay.
Within a few weeks, your F. lyrata will start to branch from the cut. Although this tree occasionally produces just one branch, it frequently produces two or three additional lateral branches.
You can remove one or two leaves from the tree’s base once the new branches have developed leaves.
The hue of the leaves and emerging branches will deepen as the canopy ages. Feel free to remove one or two more leaves from the bottom part of the trunk once you become aware of this.
You can continue to prune leaves away from the tree’s trunk as the canopy grows over time. You’ll eventually grow a tidy trunk that supports a Y-shaped canopy.
Note: Some knowledgeable gardeners enjoy using a technique called “creating lateral branches by notching. Using this technique, the gardener carefully cuts through two nodes. This cut is supposed to encourage the tree to generate lateral branches without losing height.
Because of the quick growth of F. lyrata and the fact that we are confident that pruning for lateral branch growth yields reliable results, we advise using this technique to produce that lovely canopy.
After pruning, give your plant the best care possible by providing it with the right amount of water, fertilizer, and light, which will hasten the healing of its wounds.