How To Regrow Fiddle Leaf Fig

Taking a leaf or stem cutting is the first step in growing a fiddle leaf fig plant from seed. The cutting will then be “rooted,” which simply means you’ll put it in water or extremely moist soil so it can develop new roots. The steps for propagating your plant are listed below.

Step 1: Prepare Your Propagation Container

  • For your cutting, you should have a container filled with fresh water devoid of chlorine.
  • Use distilled water or leave regular tap water remain overnight to allow the chlorine dissipate.
  • Make sure the container is sturdy enough to hold your cutting and maintain its upright position.

Step 2: Take Your Stem Cutting

I advise cutting a stem with no more than two or three leaves, as any more will require too much energy to flourish.

3 inches or so below the first leaf, make a cut. Your new plant will grow a short stem and an adequate number of leaves as a result. Pick a handful of your plant’s healthiest leaves to use as your cutting. If you cut them, don’t worry; they will grow back. Your cutting should be taken with a clean, sharp tool and dropped into water right away.

Step 3: Use a Rooting Hormone

To help your plant establish new roots more quickly, buy a rooting hormone like Houseplant Propagation Promoter. Before inserting your stem in soil or water, follow the instructions on the bottle and give it a quick dip.

The exclusive mix of Houseplant Propagation Promoter supports excellent growth and photosynthesis while shielding young cuttings from toxins and germs that could kill them off.

How can I encourage my fiddle leaf fig to produce new leaves?

It might be time to pot-up when your Fiddle Leaf Fig appears to be too large for the pot (aka move it to a larger pot). It will have more room to expand and become taller as a result. Additionally, it is a good idea to completely re-pot your FLF so that it has new nutrients to grow with rather than using the same old soil (this entails taking as much soil from the roots as you can, cutting, and planting it in new soil).

How to Train you Fiddle Leaf Fig into a Standard Tree form (from bush / cluster or small plant)

While it may be tempting to start trimming your FLF to make it immediately resemble a standard form using the secateurs, this may not be the best course of action. It’s really alluring looking at those drool-worthy interior design images! Although your FLF may not be in the best shape right now, if you give it some thought and time, you will end up with a much beautiful tree! To get the tree you desire, the process could take at least a few years or seasons of growth, but this is okay. Be patient and take pleasure in the training process.

To start with, don’t pick off the bottom leaves! These aid in supplying nutrients to the lower trunk, strengthening and thickening it as a result. The waif-like trunks of FLFs are well known, but if the trunk is too thin, it won’t be able to support the leafy treetop portion as you want it to, and it will always need to be anchored or lean. The bottom leaves should probably be removed last, in my opinion.

Separating a Cluster: If you have a cluster or collection of FLFs in a pot, you can cut them apart into individual trees. Remove them from their containers at the beginning of the growing season, gently dividing the roots, and providing each plant a root ball that is appropriate for its size (if you have to cut the roots apart, make sure each plant has a root ball that is appropriate for the plant’s size). Replant each in a separate pot.

Be warned that some clusters may not be able to be separated because they share a root ball. This may be the situation if your FLF has a group of stems that are quite near to one another at soil level. This type of cluster separation might cause damage to the plant or possibly cause it to die.

There are ways to encourage your Fiddle Leaf Fig to grow more branches if it now just has a single trunk. To promote new growth, one method is to clip off the tip or top few leaves of the trunk. Another method is known as “notching,” in which a tiny cut is made into the trunk right above a bud that needs to branch. The tree will be duped into branching out at this point by this.

Simply remove any branches near the trunk that you don’t want on your FLF. They can also be employed for cultivating fresh FLFs. This post will be useful for more detailed information on cultivating a FLF tree.

Are you setting out on a trip with a brand-new FLF? Please share your progress with me in the comments section below; I’d love to hear from you.

If you’re looking for more detailed information on fertilizing, trimming, supporting a leaning trunk, and typical FLF fallacies, check out my other Fiddle Leaf Fig postings here.

Fiddle leaf figs can they regrow?

It is rather simple to identify the root of your fiddle leaf fig’s negative attitude if it is anything other than green and full. Indoor fiddle leaf figs typically have a problem with either light, irrigation, or both. You can restore its health with a little work before it’s too late. Simply keep an eye out for the warning symptoms listed below and administer the appropriate treatment.

One thing to remember with fiddle leaf figs is that once a leaf is injured, it can’t truly be repaired. We’re diagnosing the issue and taking action to maintain the plant’s health going ahead. The tree will likely stop providing energy to the injured leaves when new growth begins to emerge, and they will eventually dry up and fall off. Last week, I got home to precisely that circumstance. The lowest leaf on the tree with damage was this one. The plant consumed all of its resources until it was entirely dried out, at which point it let go of it.

Unlike rubber plants, which can recover fallen leaves, fiddle leaf figs cannot. Because once the leaf is gone, it’s gone, maintaining their health is crucial.

Can a fiddle leaf fig be grown from a leaf cutting?

Fiddle-leaf figs can be multiplied using a few various techniques, including air layering and stem or leaf cuttings, however it takes some time.

With the former, you can grow new miniature plants for your collection, as gifts, or to make use of the leaves and branches you’ve cut off. When trying to save and repot a fiddle-leaf fig that has experienced leaf drop and all of its growth has gathered at the top of a tall, barren stem, the later procedure is helpful. Here are the steps for each of these alternatives.

How is a fiddle leaf fig branch rooted?

To explore if roots could develop from a single leaf, I started with a leaf and four stem cuttings. I placed the other 2 stem cuttings in damp potting soil after placing the bases of 2 stem cuttings and 1 leaf in water.

The cuttings should be kept in a water-filled, clean glass vase in a warm, well-lit area away from the sun. I just changed the water when it was foggy, which only happened a few times. Use tap water that is at room temperature and wait a day for the chlorine to dissipate before using.

On the stem base of the watered-down cuttings, a few tiny popcorn-like spots started to develop after 4 weeks.

Wow, roots are developing in the water after 6–8 weeks! Water replacement is not necessary at this time.

You can place the rooted Fiddle Leaf Fig cuttings in soil and watch them grow once the roots are around 1 to 2 inches long!

What happens if the top of a fiddle leaf fig is chopped off?

Your fiddle leaf fig probably has no other branches that will allow it to transition from a fiddle leaf shrub to a fiddle leaf tree. In addition, bear the following in mind before proceeding:

The amount of regrowth that results from pruning depends on how severe it was. The reason for this is that the plant is trying to grow again in an effort to balance the root system below with the shoot system above, which is now designed to support the plant at its bigger size before trimming.

Usually, the most active shoot growth takes place 6 to 8 inches after the pruning cut.

Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig

Make a decision regarding the size of the Ficus lyrata cut. Once more, the branching will be more noticeable the longer a part is clipped. (And the less the plant will grow in height, at least for that shoot.)

Your fiddle leaf fig won’t be encouraged to generate as many lateral branches off of the main trunk if you simply pinch out the fresh buds at the top with your fingers.

If you want to encourage a little lateral development to make your plant appear fuller near the top, pinching is more helpful.

On the other hand, you’ll see a lot more branching if you remove 12 of the top shoots.

Choose the node that you want to cut above. The spots on stems known as nodes are where leaves, buds, or branches can grow. However, not every node has leaves or branches; some nodes may only have a mark and a little thickening of the stem. Internodes are the parts of the stem that lie between the nodes.

3. Make use of a clean pair of pruners. Just above the top of your node, make the cut. Cut just above the node rather than into it, which would harm it.

Any plant in the fig family, including your fiddle leaf fig, will exude an oozing, milky, white sap when cut. Simply avoid eating it, getting it in your eyes, or letting it land on the carpet because it can be annoying.

4. As a final piece of advice, wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.

(Are you wondering what to do with the plant pieces you pruned? Why not cultivate a second fiddle leaf fig?

I’m done now! Now, give your new lateral buds, which will eventually grow into branches, a few weeks. While the exact length of time varies on a number of variables, your chances of success are higher if you attempt this in the spring, when fiddle leaves are actively growing, as opposed to the winter, when they are largely dormant. In comparison to winter, when the plant will need more time to heal the cut and form new buds, springtime will see rapid new development.

Should I remove the fiddle leaf fig’s bottom leaves?

You should be aware of what those bottom leaves do before selecting when to remove them.

Lower foliage has the same function as that fresh, vibrant growth up top: the leaves work to mix that green chlorophyll, commonly known as “the meat of the leaf,” with sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water to produce sap, the plant’s own sweet food.

So let them alone if you want the trunk, roots, and new growth to continue receiving energy from the sun through the foliar producers and absorbing it.

Another advantage of the lower leaves is that this is typically where the most frequent watering issues show up. To put it another way, many owners of fiddles may detect overwatering and underwatering based on early warning indicators from these bottom leaves. You lose access to one of the plant’s early warning systems if you remove them.

Keep in mind that the lower leaves should be saved for the very last stage of shaping because they AID in giving the tree its characteristic shape.

Once more, deciding whether or not to remove these lower leaves depends on what they do for the plant.

Will fig cuttings germinate in liquid?

Cuttings of fig can easily take root in water. You only need a cup, some water, and a pair of clean, heavy-duty scissors or pruners. The entire process might take more than a month, but it could take as little as three weeks.

Why should I Wiggle my Fiddle leaf fig?

Your indoor tree’s trunk can be moved to simulate wind, which will help you become more resilient outside. You can also leave your tree outside for extended periods of time to strengthen its trunk and expose it to the elements. Once you get the leaves inside, be sure to inspect them for bugs.

What are the best growing conditions for an indoor fiddle leaf fig tree?

Know that your fiddle leaf fig tree prefers moderate temperature changes and place it in a sunny spot within the house. The tree should be planted in a container with well-draining soil that is kept humid but not soggy since this might cause root rot.

Why isn’t my fiddle leaf fig tree flowering?

You should be careful not to overwater your fiddle leaf fig because it is prone to root rot. When storing the fig within a container, make sure the bottom has lots of holes to allow for proper drainage.

How do I fix a leggy fiddle leaf fig tree?

Give a leggy or tilted fiddle leaf fig tree bright, filtered sunshine as treatment. Please place your plant in the area of the house that gets the most indirect sunlight, which is usually six to eight hours per day. Don’t keep it in the Sun for too long, though; doing so could scorch the leaves.

Will wiggling my fiddle leaf fig tree weaken its roots?

Every one to two weeks, wiggle your fiddle leaf fig tree for 1.5 to 2 minutes to significantly thicken the trunk. Beginning with light shaking, progressively build up the force. If your plant is stake-supported, move it about at first with the support in place. You can take the stake out once your fig tree has gotten used to this practice.

How long do fig cuttings take to germinate?

Few tasks are more satisfying for a gardener than being able to multiply their own plants. Although many vegetable gardeners throughout the world reproduce plants by sowing seeds, the nuanced art of propagating woody plants by rooted cuttings presents its own special difficulties and rewards.

Because they are simple to root and grow quickly and vigorously when young, figs are one of the first woody plants that many gardeners try to propagate via cuttings. Figs are often the entry plant for people into the fascinating realm of woody plant multiplication because the majority of kinds root quickly, typically in around 3 weeks.

We’ve tried a lot of different methods over the years, and there are almost as many varieties of figs as there are rooting techniques. You can get figs and other plants to root using a variety of methods, and you don’t need a professional greenhouse to achieve it. Some of the approaches include rooting cuttings in plastic Ziplock bags while we’re traveling and climate-controlled greenhouses with bottom heat and mist.

First, make sure to take strong, healthy cuttings from the growth of the previous season. Between late October and February, dormant cuttings can be taken at any time of the year. We haven’t really noticed much of a difference, but many growers claim that fig cuttings obtained in the fall have more sap in them and so root more easily. Despite the fact that dormant cuttings are normally easier to root, we have successfully rooted hardwood and softwood cuttings at just about any time of the year. Usually, and occasionally already, wood removed from close to the base or where it is touching the mulch line or soil will root more readily.

Additionally, we have seen that the wild fig seedlings we have collected root quickly and with great vitality. So be cautious of them when traveling through the fig wasp country!

Your cuttings can be divided into the proper sizes for germination once you’ve gathered them. Cuttings that are too big or too little lack energy and won’t be able to support all the leaves that are produced. Typically, we choose cuttings that are between 4-6 inches long and have at least 2 nodes.

There are numerous alternatives for the media that you’ll be putting the clippings in. The most crucial thing is to make sure it lacks nutrition and fertilizer! Although it is possible to successfully root cuttings in potting soil or rich compost, your chances of success will significantly decrease. Since the immature cuttings don’t yet have roots, they require an entirely sterile mixture because they can’t absorb the nutrients in charged soil. They will decay as a result of the nitrogen, and when rooting cuttings, the distinction between rotting and rooting is crucial.

With a ratio of roughly 30–40% coconut coir to 60–70% perlite, our preferred media is washed coconut coir and perlite. The perlite adds aeration and prevents the media from becoming anaerobic while the coconut coir holds onto moisture. Because figs are susceptible to rotting if the media is kept too damp, we use somewhat more perlite when growing them. Keeping the media excessively wet is the main reason why fig cuttings and cuttings of many other species fail. The cuttings may decay if they have not yet been calloused over.

When in doubt, we always err on the side of keeping figs somewhat more dry. The rooting media is basically only there to supply humidity so the cutting doesn’t desiccate before it can form roots because they aren’t actively taking up water during the rooting phase. We’ve had success rooting figs in plastic bags with damp paper towels while traveling or abroad because maintaining humidity in the cutting is crucial.

After you have cut your branches into 4-6 inch cuts, you can reveal the vibrant green cambium layer beneath by scraping a thin layer of bark from the bottom of the cutting. Figs appear to root from almost everywhere, with extensive rooting happening along the internodes, in contrast to some species, such olives, which root exclusively from the nodes.

Most fig types don’t entirely require rooting hormone. They naturally have a strong tendency to root, thus there is no difference between figs that are rooted with or without hormone. We advise using a low strength hormone if you decide to use hormones.

We bury about half to two thirds of the length of our cuttings in the media, spacing them about an inch and a half to two inches apart. You can put it on a heating pad or in a warm area once all of your cuttings are set. Since it emits some heat, we’ve heard of some people utilizing the top of their refrigerators to root cuttings, but it works anywhere that stays between 75 and 80 degrees.

The two most important conditions for properly rooting your fig cuttings are warmth and humidity. In this instance, we are cutting dormant hardwoods, so they don’t even need light until they start to produce leaves. You can maintain the appropriate temperature for your cuttings with the aid of a basic soil thermometer. Additionally, spraying your cuttings occasionally and using a plastic cover over them can both assist maintain high humidity levels.

Buds should begin to open in about a month, but try not to pot them up too soon out of excitement or impatience. If figs are potted up too soon, they are prone to collapse. However, if they’re pushing vigorous, active shoots, you can be relatively sure they’re sufficiently rooted and pot them up into a lightly charged potting soil. Normally, we wait two months before doing this.

You’ll soon be delivering young fig trees to everyone in your neighborhood and all of your pals! Perhaps a fig tree could be planted clandestinely in the vacant lot on the corner or the empty parking lot on the route to your preferred dining establishment or grocery store. Or perhaps you’ve spotted a fig tree flourishing in your area that you simply must have, and rooting it yourself is the only way to guarantee you receive the same variety. But for the love of figs, do not add to the confusion of the already countless fig synonyms by giving them a new varietal name. When naming an unidentified variety, it’s customary to use the location of the variety’s discovery and add “Unk.” to the name to indicate that the variety is unidentified.