How To Put A Fiddle Leaf Fig In A Basket

The ability of belly baskets to conceal unsightly planter pots and those incredibly useful planters that are excellent at what they do but lack aesthetic appeal is my favorite feature. Since we keep indoor plants for their aesthetic appeal, their containers shouldn’t be an eyesore.

Place the entire planter, together with the drainage tray, into the belly basket to utilize the basket with a planter. You have a lovely fiddle leaf fig arrangement that complements your environment.

I adore these organic materials because they bring out the elegance of my fiddles’ original design. Sometimes I even keep blankets and other household items in these baskets or use them as chic alternatives to laundry hampers. Baskets are the ultimate in versatility and elegance!

Sustainably Sourced Materials

Each fiddle leaf fig basket is handwoven using conventional South Asian techniques from materials that have been ethically procured.

These baskets are constructed with seagrass that is hand-harvested from North Vietnamese trees, dried in the sun for 20–30 days, and then hand-woven by skilled craftspeople into strong, superior baskets that are individually unique.

We exclusively choose the finest baskets for our store so that you will receive a premium, long-lasting container for your lovely fiddle leaf fig.

You can feel well knowing that your basket supports Vietnamese women and their families in addition to the environment.

How are fiddle leaves inserted into a basket?

There have been more plant-related questions than usual since spring has arrived, and one in particular: you guys want to know how to repot a fiddle leaf fig tree. You don’t want to startle them because they can be challenging plants (or worse, kill them).

It just so happens that the timing is ideal because my tree needs to be replanted, and I’m going to walk you through the procedure in detail with images. This fellow is being transferred from the modernica pot to a bigger basket.

Okay, let’s get started! To start, now is the perfect time to replant… The go ahead has been given to you. Recall this article’s advice for growing healthy houseplants? Because they are in a dormant condition throughout the winter, I advised you against repotting your houseplants. Replanting in the spring, which is currently the plant’s natural development cycle, is the greatest time to promote growth.

First, locate a planter. Make sure the planter you purchase has a 23-inch-larger diameter than the one you already have. It really makes little difference whether there is drainage or not. Since it’s less untidy, I personally like drain holes to be absent.

Step two is to fill your planter 12 with rocks or gravel if you bought a pot without drainage. Add soil on top when the gravel is in place.

What kind of potting soil works best? I have a lot of gardening equipment in my garage because, as you guys know, I have a major fixation with indoor plants. Actually, I like to mix the soils.

Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix, Moisture Control Potting Mix, and Twice As Big Potting Mix are the three Miracle Grow items I combined. I divided each into equal halves. Of course, you don’t have to bother searching among a myriad of various dirt containers, but that’s what I had on hand and it worked for my tree. The Moisture Control would probably be my top pick if I had to pick only one.

Step Four is to take your tree out of its current pot. This should be done outside because it requires a lot of cleanup afterwards. If the tree is prepared for repotting, the entire rootball should come out when you gently tug on the base of the trunk, as seen below.

Fifth, place the tree in the fresh planter. Make sure the root ball is 23 inches away from the center of the trunk.

SIXTH STEP: Gently press the edges until they are solid after backfilling with potting soil. After watering the tree, if the dirt isn’t firmly compacted, you might need to add more soil when the edge settles.

STEP SEVENTH: Remove any yellowing leaves by pruning them. These leaves are often near the bottom of my tree, tiny, and very easy to remove.

Step 8 is to use a wet sponge or cloth to clean the leaves. There is no need for soap when I use warm water and a dish cloth. The plant will develop more quickly and be able to absorb more sunlight if the dust is removed.

Step Nine is to wait and drink. After repotting my tree, I normally let it sit for a day before hydrating it. It’s just what I’ve always done and what has worked for me; this is a contentious subject. I’m aware that many people prefer to water right away after planting, and that’s fine too! A helpful tutorial on how to water a fiddle leaf fig tree was shared by my friend Ashley. whichever suits your plant. The sun can be harsh on a fragile plant, so it’s best to wait at least a day before putting it back in direct sunlight.

All there is to it is that! For those of you who are curious about the basket, I just purchased an inexpensive plastic planter to fit within it because the two went together improperly. When you’re ready to repot your fiddle leaf fig, I hope my thorough comments will be useful. Isn’t it amusing how, although being the same tree, it appears different in each photograph? Undoubtedly, my tree has a positive side. Ha! I should probably rotate it more frequently.

I’ve been keeping an eye on other hip interior plants, including palms, but the ficus lyrata is still a design mainstay and isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. For more, see my Pinterest board.

Here is a list of some of my favorite cool planters if you’re looking for any (of all prices)…

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Should I fill the bottom of my fiddle leaf fig with rocks?

Any container can be filled with gravel or drainage rocks, although using a pot with drainage holes is still advised.

Do you possess an ornamental pot devoid of drainage holes? While some individuals enjoy doing it themselves by drilling a hole in the bottom, this can be laborious and could result in the pot cracking! In this situation, staging your plant, which is leaving it in its plastic nursery pot and merely setting it inside the decorative container, is advised.

Considering that it not only provides ideal drainage but also enables our customers to use chic mid-century plant supports, we actually do this for all of our plants!

This article was modified from Claire Akin’s Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource. For additional information on how to take care of the fiddle leaf fig, see their website.

Are fiddle leaf figs fond of small pots?

Floppy Leaf Only when they are root-bound do figs require an increase in pot size. In their containers, these plants typically prefer to be tight. Therefore, you should only repot a plant after you observe roots encircling the pot’s outside edge, masses of roots visible on the surface, or roots protruding from the pot’s bottom.

Holding onto the plant’s base or trunk, you can confirm this by gently wiggling and removing the plant out of the pot. The plant should come out of the pot pretty easily, and you can count the roots you can see to determine whether or not they are root bound (many roots going horizontally around the pot).

Every two to three years, you should repot your plant with new soil even if it isn’t root-bound. By doing this, the plant will be able to absorb new nutrients from the new soil. Instead of increasing the pot size, simply utilize the same pot to do this.

Before replanting with new soil, the dirt should be gently broken up and as much old soil as possible should be shaken off the roots.


Every two years, fiddle leaf figs typically require repotting, and spring is an excellent time to do it because the weather can help your tree recover from any root shock.

Additionally, the warmer weather makes it possible to repot your fiddle outside, which is advantageous if your tree is big.

Find a pot with drainage that is 1-2 times larger than your fiddle’s root ball if it is time for an upgrade (but no larger). Use a quick-draining soil, such as our Premium Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil or cactus mix.

After repotting your fiddle, the roots are particularly fragile, so wait a month before fertilizing. Chemical burns on your roots or leaves are not what you want!


Now is a wonderful time to prune your fiddle’s leaves if they are getting crowded or if the lower leaves are drooping.

To get rid of those leaves, just use a clean, sharp knife or a set of pruning shears. To prevent shock, be careful not to remove more than 10% of your fiddle’s leaves at once.

Bonus advice: You can reproduce any healthy branches or leaves that you prune! To encourage root growth, dip the cut end in some rooting hormone and place it in a glass of water. When the roots are one length, place in soil and change the water every day.

Clean your fiddle’s leaves

You should consider doing some spring cleaning on your instrument. It’s crucial to maintain the leaves of your plant clean because dust and grime can clog pores and hinder photosynthesis and respiration in addition to making them look ugly.

Use a hose, shower your plant, or mist it with warm water in a spray bottle to clean it. Then, gently wipe the leaves with a towel.

We advise using our Leaf Amor spray, which assists with leaf cleaning and also shields leaves against dust, dirt, bacteria, and fungus.

Adjust your watering routine

With the weather getting warmer, you may have become used to watering your instrument less frequently than you formerly did throughout the winter when it was chilly.

Observe the root ball of your plant using a moisture meter, and record how long it takes the soil to dry out. As the temps rise, you might notice that your plant needs a little bit more water.


Now is a wonderful time to start fertilizing your fiddle leaf fig if you haven’t already.

Like a multivitamin for your plant, fertilizer gives it the nutrients it needs to encourage the growth of its stems and leaves as well as give it a gorgeous, glossy green hue.

Find a 3-1-2 NPK liquid fertilizer, and make sure you follow the instructions on the bottle. Carefully adhere to the suggested fertilizer plan. I use Fiddle Leaf Fig Food since I can never remember to fertilize on a schedule, and it’s gentle enough to use with every watering. Every time I water my fiddles, I simply add a little to my watering can, and my plants absolutely adore it!

Adjust your light

Keep an eye on the type of light your fiddle is receiving because the angle of the sun’s rays changes in the spring. You might want to move your plant a few inches to prevent direct sunlight that could scorch it if the sun is suddenly shining squarely on its leaves.

Branch out

You should foster the growth of new branches on your fiddle during the spring. Try pinching or notching your fiddle if you want new branches.

Try pinching if you want the tree to sprout branches from the top: Get some pruning shears, look for the top of the tree’s freshest growth, and cut it off. (Beware of the sap!) Within two to three weeks, new branches ought to start to form.

Try notching if you want your tree to branch deeper down the trunk: decide where you want a branch to go, identify the closest node, then make a 1/8 cut in the trunk with a sharp knife. With a towel, remove the sap.

Although notching has a roughly 50/50 success rate, if it does, you’ll soon notice new branch buds!

A caveat: don’t make too many changes at once.

The spring is a great time to increase Fiddle Leaf Fig maintenance and benefit from growth spurts, but keep in mind that fiddles don’t appreciate too much change at once. Don’t repot, prune, notch, and fertilize all in the same day, to put it another way.

To give your tree time to heal, space large procedures like this out by at least a few weeks. And keep in mind to start with the fundamentals: light, water, fertilizer, and climate.

A fiddle leaf fig should be watered either from the top or bottom.

The fiddle leaf fig tree really cemented its position as a mainstay of interior design several years ago. If you don’t believe me, simply quickly go through any interior design Instagram account or Pinterest, and I can almost assure you won’t miss this stunning plant. Personally, I’ve been cultivating them in my house for many years. I had a sizable one in my Beverly Hills condo’s living room, numerous others dotted around my old Palisades property, and I now also enjoy them in my present Laguna Beach home. The longest one I’ve ever had, I must say, lasted for approximately eight years! Which means I’ve been able to care for these picky indoor plants for a lot longer than I anticipated. Even though I’d like to think that I have the famous “green thumb,” the truth is that I only stick to a few guidelines that I’ve learned over the years to keep my trees growing and their leaves sporting a vibrant shade of green.

I’d want to impart some of those knowledge on how to grow a beautiful and robust fiddle leaf fig tree today. I’ve asked Mackenna Rowley of Piep Co, owner of a plant store and proponent of the green thumb, to share her knowledge with us. Many of her suggestions are ones I’ve used for years, but there are also some excellent success hints in here. What you should know before planting a fiddle leaf fig tree is as follows:

1. Make sure it gets enough water. When watering this plant, Mackenna advises remembering the following maxim: It’s better to submerge than overwater! She strongly advises bottom watering your violin and advises letting the top 1-2 inches of soil dry out between waterings. “According to Mackenna, a common issue with our customers is that they tend to water their larger plants from above when they notice that they are beginning to grow brown and dry. “But doing so never actually completely drenches the potting soil. Then they keep watering the plant more and more, which causes it to be generally underwatered and to occasionally develop root rot. Potting mix has a little hydrophobic quality, so when you water from above, it’s simple for the water to just flow down the path of least resistance and not actually fully saturate the root ball—especially with larger plants in big pots. You should always water your potting mix well, so Mackenna suggests soaking your fiddle overnight in a tub filled with water that comes halfway up the pot. This will let the potting mix to completely absorb the water. In addition, it receives a welcome boost in humidity this way. Crispy, dry leaves are typically the result of underwatering and insufficient humidity, whereas soft, yellow leaves are typically the result of overwatering.

2. Bring clarity. When deciding where location to place your tree, it can seem natural to only take décor and aesthetics into account. However, there are many more factors to take into account before placing your tree. I’ve learned that my trees thrive with a lot of direct, strong light. You should keep it out of any direct light until it’s a reasonably mature tree, which takes a decade or more, according to Mackenna. Therefore, if you believe that giving your tree a little sunbath on your balcony or patio will benefit it, reconsider. Until it is old enough, at least. When the leaves are exposed to direct light, they may become dry and brown. I advise putting yours close to a window that lets in lots of gentle, indirect light. Also, consider the direction that the light is coming from: windows facing north will receive the least sunlight, windows facing east will receive morning sunlight but not enough throughout the day, and windows facing west will receive strong afternoon sunlight that could burn the leaves and dry out the plant. The greatest windows are those that face south since they will receive just the right amount of light without getting too much. It’s also crucial to keep in mind that your instrument will incline toward the light, so if symmetry is what you’re after, make sure to spin it frequently.

3. Take into account the pot and potting soil. You should use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix for your plants. Additionally, you should check that the bottom of your pot has sufficient drainage. Because the FLF is prone to root rot, you must ensure that it can drain after watering. Furthermore, a pot lacking drainage holes cannot be bottom-watered! The advice of Mackenna is to place your tree in a slightly larger decorative pot or basket while still in its original plastic growing container (I love using these from The Little Market). Growing plants always need enough drainage, so it makes it much easier to transport when you’re dragging it off to the tub. Additionally, you can still use a decorative pot if it doesn’t have drainage holes and you don’t want to drill them yourself.

4. Watch out for wind. Mackenna advises keeping FLF away from frequently opened doors or windows, heating or cooling vents, fireplaces, or other draft-prone areas because FLF are relatively susceptible to them. Keep in mind that FLF prefer some humidity, which is diminished by drafts.

5. Show it off in style! I like the fiddle best in a plain pot or tucked within a woven basket because it is such an eye-catching, sculptural plant. Why detract from those enormous, magnificent leaves? Because the pots need to be pretty large, Mackenna advises choosing only one color or pattern rather than both if you want to make your pot stand out a little more. Unless, of course, you like it that way in which case, go for it!

6. Maintain it. Cleaning the leaves frequently is one of my best recommendations. Your plant will develop large, dust-collecting leaves as it grows, which can actually stunt growth because it blocks sunlight. When cleaning the leaves, Mackenna advises applying a little coconut oil because it also adds shine (a tip I had never heard of but adore and am eager to try myself!). But make sure you only apply it to the leaf’s tops. Susing it on the bottom may cause the plant’s stomata to become blocked, preventing it from breathing.

So there you have it! I want to thank Mackenna once more for these useful information. I’m curious to know now…