Although diagnosing root rot in Fiddle Leaf Figs early on is crucial if you want to save the plant, it does not always guarantee death. Remove your plant from its pot as soon as you notice any problems, and thoroughly examine the roots. Are the plants’ bases surrounded by a buildup of moisture? Are the roots becoming mushy or dark brown in color?
If so, repot your plant right away by taking the following actions:
Thoroughly rinse the roots with water. After cleaning them, use a pair of clean scissors or pruning shears to remove any that are broken.
Repot your plant in a new, well-draining container with fresh, quick-absorbing soil. To enhance drainage and aid in keeping your plant dry, you can think about placing some pebbles or a foam block at the bottom of your pot.
Because these plants are finicky about light, put your Fiddle in bright, indirect light and give it one watering. Until you are certain that the roots have dried up, do not water again. Depending on the size of the plant and the climate it lives in, this could take one to two weeks or longer. It’s usually best to err on the side of underwatering!
Repot your fiddle leaf fig in the well-draining container with new potting soil. Once more, water the plant and check to see if any extra water is draining out the bottom of the pot. then hold off. Until you are certain that the roots have had a chance to dry out, do not water again. To examine the soil at the base of your plant, you can also use a moisture meter.
Be patient and wait for the plant to stabilize since your plant may still lose a few leaves at first. Remove the leaves that have been severely damaged, and cut some of the leaves that have just minor damage to get rid of the brown edges. A good general rule is to not remove more than 30% of the plant at a time because doing so could further shock the plant. Whatever the situation, your Fiddle has a high chance of healing with a little water, light, and love!
This article was modified from Claire Akin’s Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource. For additional information on how to take care of the fiddle leaf fig, see their website.
A fiddle leaf’s ability to recover from root rot
The huge, lush leaves of fiddle leaf figs make them Instagram-famous plants because they enhance the appearance of any indoor environment. They do considerably better outside and are not the easiest plants to grow indoors. However, as long as you provide your plant the finest cultural care available, it ought to be alright.
Root rot in figs causes soft, mushy, brown or black roots as well as browning leaves, drooping stems, foul-smelling soil, algae, and mold growth.
You need to repot your fiddle leaf fig right away if it develops root rot. Remove the plant from its previous container, wash out the dirt, cut off any rotting roots, and then plant it in a fresh container with enough drainage holes and soil that drains properly. To help the plant recuperate after being repotted, water it.
Use porous, airy soil, water the plant only when the soil is dry, inspect the drainage pores to make sure they are not blocked, and aerate the soil by poking holes in it with a chopstick to prevent root rot.
What does a fiddle leaf fig look like when it has root rot?
These dots might be anything from dark brown to black in color. They may begin at the leaf’s base, close to the stem (fungal root rot is more prevalent), or towards the leaf’s edges, moving inward. A few root rot infections begin as brown patches on the center of a leaf, resembling the spots on a dalmatian dog.
In contrast to the strong and flexible roots of a healthy plant, roots that have experienced root rot will be black and feel mushy.
Root rot is most likely the cause of a fiddle leaf fig that has brown spots and is losing leaves. Your plant may lose the unhealthy leaves until it is left with no leaves in an effort to rescue itself.
Can root rot be cured in a plant?
Wet conditions in the plant’s soil provide toxic fungi the chance to flourish, which results in the disease known as root rot. Because roots require air to function properly and prolonged immersion in water deprives them of oxygen, the roots decay. Since it’s more difficult to regulate moisture and water might become confined, houseplants in pots are more likely to develop root rot than their planted counterparts. While other causes can also contribute to root rot, overwatering is the main cause of root rot issues. So, we’ll focus on the precise method for treating root rot brought on by excessive moisture.
Root Rot Diagnosis:
You must first confirm that the roots of your plant are indeed rotting. Navigating the best remedy for your plant will be made easier by immediately removing any further potential problems. If you want to determine if your issue is genuinely indoor plant root rot, start by observing any obvious symptoms, such as:
Remember that it’s normal for older leaves to change color and fall, so pay greater attention to those younger ones. If you observe browning, yellowing, or dead leaves, it may be a sign that the roots are also dying. Wet soil and wilting foliage are two telltale signs of root rot.
Look at the saucer of the pot; if water is still there, too much water was supplied at some time, soaking the soil and roots of your plant. Standing water should never be present because it might create waterlogging of the soil and its roots.
Assess the roots at the bottom, which will have received the most water exposure, after slipping the plant out of the pot. Check the roots to see whether they are dark brown in color, squishy or spongy, or even covered in fuzzy moldy debris. These are all warning indications of rot. All of these are symptoms of weakened roots.
Root Rot Rx:
Firm roots and light colour are characteristics of healthy plants that are not rotting (usually either beige, green, or tan). The soil must be adequately moistened and the leaves must be in good condition. Once you’ve determined that your houseplant’s problem is actually root rot, it’s time to create a treatment strategy. Priorities first
1. Let the dirt dry out.
Allow the soil to air out if you’ve recently seen some standing water or a change in leaf color and are unsure whether it’s root rot yet. Allow the soil around the plant to dry out for 3-5 days. For plants that aren’t yet damaged, this technique occasionally works. Drying the soil is beneficial since plant roots require oxygen to function properly. However, if the roots of your plant are severely decomposing, go to the instructions below right away because it’s probably too late to dry the soil.
2. Get rid of all the browned leaves.
Attempting to remove any dead leaves is the first step in this process. As close to the plant’s root as you can, make sure to remove them from it.
3. Get rid of old soil.
The next step will be to repot. To do this, you must first dig the plant out of its present soil. As you take the plant out of the pot, carefully scoop out as much soil as you can. Brush off wet or clumpy soil being careful not to overly damage the root system.
4. Remove rotting and dead roots.
Trimming off rotten roots will be done carefully while the plant is still in its pot. Attempt to preserve as much as you can by removing dead roots and preserving good ones.
5. Replant in fresh soil.
Repot your plant next using sterile potting soil (one that is appropriate with your specific plant). Fresh soil will help ensure that any bacteria or fungi that may have developed have been largely eliminated. Additionally, it will provide nutrients that may have been lacking in the previous soil and aid in the plant’s recovery.
Remember that the plant is probably already susceptible and under stress from the root rot. And depending on how severe the damage is, repotting could make your plant much more stressed or even kill it. But given that the plant is already declining, it’s definitely worth a chance. Also, it’s actually your only opportunity. Allowing the root rot to continue in its current condition of decomposition will eventually kill the entire plant because root rot cannot be reversed and spreads swiftly.
Preventative Measures:
Always, prevention is the best course of action. So make an effort to develop a watering schedule that works for the particular indoor plant you have. Simple procedures like these can help prevent root rot in the future.
- Use pots that have a drainage hole.
- Use appropriate soil, and periodically check to make sure the water is draining properly.
- The plant roots must have access to some air, as was previously said, in order to survive. The plant will be able to absorb oxygen and avoid probable root rot if the soil is allowed to somewhat dry out (only the top layer). The finger test—in which you wiggle your finger a few inches deep into the soil to gauge the moisture level—works well for determining whether to water many tropical houseplants. Its presence indicates that the soil’s bottom is noticeably moist. Therefore, you won’t water again until the top layer is mostly dried.
- Again, don’t let extra water build up and remain in the bottom dish of the pot.
- Depending on the season, you’ll also need to change how much water your plant receives. Plants typically require less water during the colder, drier months.
- Keep an eye on your plant. Knowing when the plant needs less or more will help you stay in the moment.
Since root rot affects the part of the plant that cannot be seen, it is frequently not discovered until major harm has already been done. Your houseplant may be saved if you swiftly follow the survival instructions. However, if your plant simply won’t survive, we strongly advise taking some cuttings to reproduce it. In this manner, some of the plant survives and everything is not lost!
How is a fiddle leaf fig that is rooted bound fixed?
Repotting is the only way to cure a root-bound violin. Make sure this is part of your routine because fiddles need to be repotted every one to two years to give the roots room to expand.
Step 1: Pick your pot.
Choose a pot for your fiddle that is about 2-3 inches larger than the pot it is currently in. You don’t want to risk transferring old infections or fungi to your fiddle, so make sure this pot has drainage and is clean.
Step 2: Unpot your fiddle and loosen the roots.
Then, gently pry the plant out of the pot on your fiddle. NEVER uproot a plant by pulling it upward!
The root ball is probably compressed and hard if your instrument is severely root-bound. If it applies to your fiddle, gently massage the root ball to make it more pliable. If required, run it under water to loosen some of the soil (just be sure the water isn’t ice-cold; lukewarm is better!).
Step 3: Repot the fiddle.
Add a few inches of Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil or cactus mix to the bottom of the new container once the root ball has relaxed. When the plant can stand straight, place your fiddle in the center of the pot and sprinkle more dirt around the perimeter. Remember to leave a few inches of headroom so you can water the plants.
How does root rot appear?
Root rot is frequently difficult to identify until significant harm has been done. Slow growth, squishy stems, and wilting, yellow, deformed leaves are indications of root rot (especially when the plant has been well watered, as wilting leaves can also be a sign of a dry plant). Typically, the soil will smell foul and the roots will be reddish brown in color.
The best course of action is to remove and replace the plant if root rot symptoms have been found. The plant frequently can’t change its direction.