Secret No. 6: Avoid letting a sick fiddle-leaf fig tree fully dry up. Make sure any extra water drains out the bottom of the pot when watering it once or twice per week. (I water mine in the shower and keep it there for a couple of hours so the pot can drain, then I put it back on the plant saucer.)
Secret No. 7: Even if the container is so tight that roots are visible at the surface, wait to transplant it until you notice fresh growth.
In conclusion, letting your fiddle-leaf fig tree heal slowly on its own is the greatest thing you can do to ensure its survival. Give it filtered sunlight, water once a week, and warm environments (a room temperature between 60 and 90 degrees would do). Furthermore, if there is even a remote chance that the temperature may drop below freezing overnight, don’t leave it outside.
Are you also attempting to preserve your fiddle-leaf fig? The Fig and I: 10 Tips for Caring for a Fiddle-Leaf Fig has more advice. Visit Fiddle-Leaf Fig Trees: A Field Guide in our selected plant guide for Tropicals 101 for additional growing, maintenance, and design advice.
Finally, consult our Creeping Fig: A Field Guide for additional guidance on how to effectively plant, nurture, and maintain a creeping fig.
Get additional tips on planting, growing, and caring for fiddle-leaf fig trees by reading our Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree: A Field Guide.
Finally, use our Houseplants: A Field Guide to learn more about how to grow and care for different houseplants.
Are you looking for additional tropical plants for your indoor or outdoor space? With the help of Tropical Plants: A Field Guide, you can learn more about how to cultivate and care for different tropical plants.
Finally, consult our Vines & Climbers: A Field Guide for more guidance on how to cultivate and maintain a variety of vines and climbers.
How can fiddle leaf fig leaves that have drooped be fixed?
Finding and addressing the issues that are causing the fiddle leaf fig’s leaves to lose their visual appeal is the key to fixing a drooping plant. By adjusting your techniques to the needs of the plant, you might adopt several strategies.
A wilting fiddle leaf fig can be revived and fixed as follows:
Move the plant where there’s bright indirect light
During their active growth period, fiddle fig leaves need roughly 6 hours of bright indirect sunshine. This can be accomplished by relocating it to a window with an eastward facing and lightly covered curtain.
Making ensuring your plant receives enough sunshine is crucial for repairing drooping leaves and preserving its health. After a few days of continuous exposure to sunshine when the plant has previously received insufficient sunlight, you might start to detect changes in the leaf.
To provide your fiddle leaf fig easy access to the morning and evening sun when the light intensity is moderate indoors, put your pot close to a window (and cannot harm the plant). It will be ideal if the window faces west or east.
Let the soil dry out between waterings
If the plant is being underwatered, give it enough water until the pot starts to drip. Move it to its new location after letting it drip for a while to keep the soil moist. To avoid drooping and wilting, allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
Meeting your plant’s water needs can be made easier by keeping a good watering routine. For instance, depending on the season, fiddle leaf figs require watering roughly once per week at intervals of 10 days.
In order to account for seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, it is important to modify your watering plan. To minimise overwatering, you should also avoid supplying too much water.
How much water the soil retains after each watering session can be managed with the aid of a high-quality potting media and drainage system. Check the potting mixture frequently to see if the plant requires watering before adding water.
By inserting your finger a few inches into the potting media, you may determine whether the soil needs water (finger test). It’s possible for your plant to go a few more days without water if the soil beneath it is moist. However, crumbly, dry soil indicates that your plant needs water immediately.
Additionally, you can look for drooping leaves, however this isn’t necessarily a good sign that your plant needs water.
Repot using a well-draining potting mix and larger pot
Fiddle leaf figs can grow up to 6 feet tall. To accommodate the growth increase, you might need to occasionally move your plant into a larger pot.
Choosing the right pot or medium is essential for repotting. Your plant may be prone to overwatering, saturated soils, etc. due to poor selection. Use a peat-perlite soil mixture, preferably at a 2:1 ratio, is what I’d suggest.
The diameter of the pots should be about three to four inches broader, and each pot should be about one to two inches taller than the one before it. To allow for effective drainage, it is also worthwhile to get a pot with a drainage hole.
Feed the plant with 3-1-2 NPK fertilizer
Your fiddle leaf fig may occasionally droop from nutrient deficiency, particularly if the soil is overworked. However, this wilting and discontent does not have the same intensity as that brought on by underwatering.
Fertilizers are necessary to keep the soil’s nutrient quality high and to energise your plant. At least twice a year, fiddle leaf figs require a constant fertiliser application. The substance that enriches soil with nutrients should be applied in the spring and fall.
Use an organic, slow-release substance with a balanced NPK ratio wherever possible. For instance, the majority of fiddle leaf figs respond well to an NPK ratio of 3-1-2, where a high nitrogen (N) content encourages healthy foliage growth, phosphorous (P) enhances tissue development, and potassium (K) permits optimum plant growth and strong roots.
Remember to add fertiliser according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Different goods have different quantity requirements, dispersion methods, etc.
Maintain temperature between 65F to 75F for the fig
The temperature sensitivity of fiddle leaf figs. As a result, the species flourishes in tropical climates with temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The plant can withstand dips in temperature of up to 55 F. (Higher or lower temperatures can negatively affect the plant). Because of this, it is preferable to move or insulate fiddle leaf fig plants indoors during the winter and other cooler months to sustain vigorous development and avoid drooping/freezing.
During the summer, when temperatures may increase over ideal levels, you can sometimes spray the leaves of your plant. Additionally, keep an eye out for new growth to avoid sunburn and drooping, which could harm your plant’s appearance and general health.
The dying fiddle leaf fig: why?
Overwatering or a change in temperature are typically the causes of a fiddle leaf fig’s demise. Fiddle leaf figs require the potting soil to gently dry out in between waterings and prefer temperatures between 65°F and 75°F. The fiddle leaf fig loses its leaves when the temperature changes abruptly.
The leaves droop, become brown in areas or regions, and eventually fall off due to overwatering.
Because they are delicate plants, fiddle leaf figs can react negatively to a variety of conditions, including temperature changes, draughts, low humidity, excessive direct sunshine, insufficient light, too much fertiliser, overwatering, underwatering, and inadequate drainage.
Ficus lyrata, or fiddle leaf figs, are very sensitive to a rapid change in environment and dislike being relocated or repotted frequently.
If a fiddle leaf fig is on the verge of dying, you should try to replicate its natural environment by keeping the temperature between 65°F and 75°F, misting the leaves to enhance humidity, placing it in bright, indirect light, and only watering it when the top 2 inches of the soil feel dry.
Here is a reference table to assist you in determining the reason why your fiddle leaf fig is dying:
It can be challenging to pinpoint the precise reason why your plant is dying because fiddle leaf figs are so susceptible to environmental change.
To find out the probable cause (or causes) of your dying fiddle leaf fig and how to apply the remedies to revive your plant, keep reading.
Fiddle leaf fig leaves do they regrow?
If you recently bought a fiddle leaf fig, be prepared for some leaves to fall while it gets used to its new surroundings. To ensure that a larger issue is not at play, keep an eye on the overall number of leaves lost.
Typically, a plant that is recovering from shock will have between 3 and 7 leaves.
Give it Consistency
Make sure to maintain consistency in your plant’s lighting, humidity, and watering practises to aid in its recovery.
Keep your new plant away from heating vents and chilly draughts in a bright spot without direct sunlight. When the top one or two inches of soil are dry or once every seven days, water. Give your plant a couple of weeks to adjust to its new location. (This moisture metre is an excellent tool to use to determine when your plant needs water.)
Is my fig tree going to grow back?
My fig tree has suffered severe frost damage. Should we let the dead alone or cut them off? It has always produced good, healthy yields.
A: Although many fig trees were harmed over the recent winter, most will recover. Once you uncover green tissue, begin chopping away at the browned branches. If not, entirely cut off that branch. The tree can then be shaped by cutting a few inches off all around if necessary. Use a general-purpose garden fertiliser or a granular fruit tree fertiliser to fertilise. If the summer is dry, keep mulch around the tree’s base and water it once a week. An elder tree like this one has a fair chance of recovery with your proper care, even if you don’t receive many figs this year if they are late-bearing.
A: My entire garden area is covered in ants. I can’t even enter to prepare the ground for planting because the situation is that horrible. Do you have any suggestions for how I might get rid of the ants before planting?
A: To get rid of these ants, you’ll need to treat the entire garden and the region around it. There are various options, but a potent pyrethrin spray can provide effective, quick control. Afterward, use a baited ant control in the vicinity of the garden to discourage them from returning.
Q: Help! My flowerbed has a weed that is currently in bloom and whose extremely long roots make it impossible to get up. The use of weed killers hasn’t been effective, and I anticipate new growth. Any recommendations?
A weed’s behaviour indicates how to control it even if we are unable to identify it. Since it dies back in the summer, we can conclude that this weed is a cool-season perennial. This most likely indicates that it appears between the first cool spell in the fall and late winter. The best course of action right now is to get those blooms cut off and remove as much of them as you can, making it more exposed to the upcoming hot weather. Since it’s impossible to remove all of those tangled roots without completely digging up the bed, the plants will resprout. When it reappears, bring a sprig to your favourite neighbourhood garden centre and discuss a spray with the horticulture. Compared to the mature plants you are now facing, the new growth will be significantly more susceptible to weed killers.
Potential Cause 1: Root Rot
Brown stains on the roots from a fungus caused by too much moisture. Root rot is brought by by over watering and bad drainage, and it eventually affects your plant’s leaves.
How to Correct It
Removing the pot and looking at the roots is the only way to be confident that your plant has root rot. Root rot is at blame if the roots are mushy and discoloured. Let your plant dry out for around two weeks if there are only a few brown patches on the leaves so that the roots have enough time to heal.
Make sure your plant gets enough light, and remove any damaged leaves. If there are several brown patches, you should remove any brown, mushy roots and the affected leaves before repotting the plant and being careful not to overwater it in the future.
Potential Cause 2: Bacterial Infection
In addition to the brown spots, your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will yellow as a result of bacterial leaf spot. In contrast to bacterial leaf spot, which causes the leaf to turn yellow as the brown spot spreads, root rot often causes the leaves to remain dark green with brown patches. Your Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves will eventually drop off due to both bacterial leaf spot and root rot. Since bacterial leaf spot tends to feed on new growth, it is likely to be to fault if your younger leaves are suffering more than your older leaves.
Unfortunately, this is the Fiddle Leaf Fig condition that is most difficult to treat. It can already be too late for your plant, even with the right care and watering. Cut off all of the leaves that have brown spots if the damage is not severe, then repot your plant in new, sterile soil. While it is healing, give it lots of light and don’t water as frequently.
Potential Cause 3: Insect Damage
Although uncommon, insect illnesses leave clear signs. Check your plant for webs or insects using a magnifying glass. Small patches that develop into holes on the leaves are a sure sign of insect damage.
Treatment for insect infestations is simple. Use neem oil products made specifically for indoor plants. Alternately, you might make your own cure by mixing a few teaspoons of mineral oil and baking soda in a spray bottle with water. Spray the entire affected area of the plant after thoroughly shaking the solution. Your other houseplants should not be near diseased plants. Neem oil has an overpowering odour, so move your plant outside if you can. Spray your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves with a strong mist. Don’t forget to spray the area where the leaf meets the stem after turning each leaf to cover the underside. If more spraying is required, wait two weeks, inspect once more, then repeat the process.
Potential Cause 4: Your Plant is Too Dry
Dry tan or brown regions that originate at the edge of the leaf and force the leaf to curl make dry plant brown spots simpler to identify. Your plant will occasionally appear dry or wilted overall, and the dirt may have retreated from the pot (shrinkage). This may result in the water never reaching the root ball and instead running between the pot and the soil.
Consider transferring your Fiddle Leaf Fig to a more moderate area if it is currently close to a heater or in an extremely dry environment. When the soil is 50 to 75 percent dry, water as needed, and keep an eye on your plant to make sure it’s getting enough hydration. Use a humidifier close to your plant or try misting it once to three days. Make sure the root ball of your plant is completely submerged in water by giving it a long sip. Make sure the pot’s bottom is dripping with water. Before placing the plant back on its saucer, let it to rest and drain any extra water.