For good reason, fiddle leaf figs are popular in the design world. They are a terrific modern accent in homes and businesses thanks to their enormous, architectural leaves, which create a striking statement. Despite the fig’s image as a bit of a prima donna, if you and your fig abide by a few simple rules, you and your fig can enjoy a long-lasting and fruitful relationship.
Here are some fundamental instructions for taking care of a fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata). Keep in mind that if you ever need assistance troubleshooting plant concerns, feel free to stop by our store or use the hashtag #heyswansons to share your queries on social media.
SOIL
Fiddle Leaf Figs are native to the rainforest and prefer rich, porous soil. When repotting your fig, we advise using E.B. Stone Organics “Edna’s Best” Potting Soil.
You can either gently remove the plant from its pot and search for roots that develop in a thick circle or check the bottom of the container to see whether the roots are emerging from the drainage holes.
You can repot your fig into a container that is up to a few inches larger if it has outgrown its current one. Fiddle leaf figs typically require repotting every one to two years.
Another choice is to carefully cut the root ball of a huge plant and repot it in its original container with fresh potting soil. Don’t forget to only remove 20% of the root ball.
When your plant has grown as big as your home or office will allow, you have the option of trimming the roots to prevent it from getting any bigger.
LIGHT
Give your fig a strong, indirect light source. The leaves might be burned by the afternoon sun if it is too intense. If your single window is facing South or West, try relocating the plant a little bit away from the window or put a sheer curtain in front of the window to block the sun’s rays.
WATER
Consistent watering helps fiddle leaf figs stay hydrated but not drenched. Water slowly and thoroughly until water drains out of the drainage holes in the pot, let the soil dry to about 1, and then water slowly and thoroughly one more. To prevent the plant from sitting in water, make sure to dump any remaining water from your caching pot or tray.
During the spring and summer growing seasons, water slightly more than in the winter.
If figs do not receive enough water, their leaves may start to turn brown or yellow around the margins before dropping. The roots could decay if the plant is kept too moist because they won’t be able to get oxygen. Yellowing, browning, and the dropping of the lower/older leaves are indications of overwatering, which are comparable to those of underwatering.
HUMIDITY & TEMPERATURE
The warm, muggy climate of the jungle is favorable to figs. You might put a shallow tray of water near or under your plant to boost the humidity in your house or place of business. In order to prevent the plant’s roots from sitting in standing water when the tray is placed under it, fill it with stones and maintain the water level below them.
To enhance the humidity surrounding the leaves, you might also wish to mist your plant a few times per week. In the winter, a humidifier can also work wonders to boost humidity and keep your plant content.
Floppy Leaf Figs don’t like drafts or unexpected temperature fluctuations very much. The leaves may fall from exposure to air conditioning or cold drafts from windows. When evening lows do not go below 60 degrees, they are happiest.
FERTILIZER
During the growing season, fertilize your houseplants using an all-purpose fertilizer. To avoid overfertilizing, you can either follow the instructions on the packaging or halve the recommended dosage. Additionally, if you are not repotting that year, you can add an inch or two of new potting soil each year.
PESTS
A plant under stress may become more susceptible to pests. A contented plant that is misted and well-watered will be less likely to encounter pest problems!
Aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites can all harm figs. Always be sure to check your plant’s foliage on a frequent basis. Depending on the pest attacking the plant, if you find insects, send us a picture or bring a sample in so we can suggest a suitable natural insecticide.
The plant’s leaves turning yellow and falling off are another sign. However, problems with irrigation could also be to blame. If you don’t see any pests on your plant, experiment with different watering schedules to see if the problem goes away.
OTHER TIPS
Those big, gorgeous leaves can be dust magnets! To keep your Fig gleaming and healthy, give it a once-over with a gentle, dry cloth.
Keep in mind to frequently rotate your plant to maintain uniform growth and avoid tilting!
Photos of your fiddle leaf figs are welcome! Show off your beauty by using the hashtag #heyswansons!
Are fiddle leaf figs root bound in their favor?
Fiddle leaf figs thrive well in the pot they were purchased in and are generally content as root-bound plants. Place it into a larger decorative container or basket and cover the plastic store-bought pot with some beautiful moss. We’ll discuss more about repotting later.
Don’t wait to repot your new plant.
Your plant most likely arrived in a plastic pot if you bought it from Home Depot or another supplier.
To keep the roots bone-dry, these pots incorporate drainage holes on the side. That’s because growers regularly moisten plants’ roots with water, and growing containers are made to allow water to drain quickly. This lessens (or completely eliminates) the chance of root rot, but once you get your plant home, it becomes hazardous.
Don’t put off repotting your plant because fiddle leaf figs can dry out and sustain severe harm in just a few days in these containers. If you have to wait a few days or weeks, make sure to water your plant every day while it is in the grower’s pot. Pour the water on the plant gently so it has time to soak in rather than simply draining out the side drainage holes.
Understand proper drainage.
Understanding correct drainage is the most crucial long-term investment you can make in the health of your fiddle leaf fig plant.
Because fiddle leaf fig trees are prone to root rot, you must ensure that your container has excellent drainage and that your plant never sits in water. To keep your root ball dry, you’ll need a container with a drainage hole and some cactus mix or other materials, such Smart Gravel.
My preferred planters are those made of ceramic with drainage holes, such as this one or the following one, both of which are available at Home Depot.
Select the right container.
You’ll need to purchase a new container that is 3–4 inches wider in diameter (across the top) than the one your plant is now in. Grab a tape measure to make sure your new container is bigger than your old one in both width and height. Avoid going overboard because oversized pots might encourage root rot. The new pot should have a maximum diameter increase of 6 inches over the old one. A 16- or 18-inch pot will work as the majority of the large fiddle leaf fig trees at Home Depot are in 12- or 14-inch pots. Your new pot must have drainage holes at the bottom, otherwise, plant homicide will have occurred. A sizable ceramic pot like the one below works best for me as a container.
Get the right potting soil.
Your plant needs nutrients from the soil in order to grow, as well as for proper drainage and moisture management.
I always plant fiddle leaf figs in our premium potting soil. Don’t give in to the temptation of using soil or dirt from your garden for succulents or other plants. Houseplants require soil that is prepared to promote airflow and water retention.
After repotting, do you water the fiddle leaf fig?
The most crucial step in repotting your fiddle, regardless of whether it is root bound or simply needs new soil, is to remove as much old soil as you can and “fluff out” any roots that are bound.
Simply putting your Fiddle Leaf in a larger pot and adding dirt to the sides won’t help if it is root-bound. This is due to the roots’ training to encircle the pot; in order for them to develop normally once more, they must be fluffed out.
Additionally, adding new soil to the periphery will reduce the effectiveness of your irrigation. When watering a pot with two different soil types, the water will follow the shortest route to the bottom of the pot. This indicates that the roots are less likely to receive adequate watering.
Step One: Mix up your new Soil
Mix the new soil mix you want to use in a separate, sizable container or bucket. This step is unnecessary if you’re only using a bag of succulent and cactus mix.
Step Two: Lift the plant out of the Pot
Assemble the plant by its base. Gently wiggle and remove the plant out of the pot by turning the plant and pot on their side. This ought to be simple to accomplish. Squeeze the pot if necessary to aid in releasing it.
Step Three: Gently break away Old Soil
The goal is to get rid of as much of the old soil as you can without damaging the roots too much. Although some breakage is unavoidable, keep in mind that the little roots are crucial because they are the ones that transport nutrients. Stability is provided by the bigger roots.
To assist wash away the old dirt, you can either submerge the root ball in water or use a hose. When repotting, make sure the roots are not allowed to dry out. Additionally, be careful that the water you use is not almost frozen—this could shock the tropical plants.
Step Four: For Root bound plants, trim some of the longer, outer roots
Trimming the roots of plants that were root-bound can encourage fresh development. Cut off any very long, outer roots. Think of it as a hair trim—you don’t need to take too much off—just an inch or two all around (depending on the size of your plant).
Step Five: Fill the planter with around a third new soil
You should add about a third new dirt to the planter you are using. Place your plant back into the pot after that, paying attention to how high it is sitting. You should plant it so that the soil covers all of the roots and comes up to the top of the pot within an inch.
Step Six: Place the root ball into the Pot & Fill
You might need assistance holding the plant upright while you add fresh soil to the sides. Remember that the earth will settle, so firm up the area surrounding the roots to help the plant stand.
Step seven: Water the plant
Avoid skipping this step! When the plant is watered, the soil will be able to move around and settle in between the roots, leaving none exposed. Make careful to water it until a lot of the extra runs off. If you see that the soil level has decreased as well, you can tap the pot or gently but firmly press the soil down with your hands to help it settle.
Once the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry, wait to water your Fiddle Leaf Fig again (use your finger to test).
For about a month after repotting, avoid fertilizer because the roots have been disturbed and could become damaged. After the process, you can use a soil conditioner like Seasol to assist maintain the soil and plant robust and healthy without overpowering the plant.
After repotting, put your plant somewhere bright so it has time to acclimate. Fiddle Leafs typically dislike change, so it is best to let it acclimatize to its new container and soil at this point without making any additional modifications.
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How often ought new leaves to appear on fiddle leaf figs?
Fiddle Leaf Figs are infamously difficult to grow. There are a few typical maladies of this plant, like brown spots and leaf drop, that can make it sick or, worse, fast bring about its demise. The secret to keeping your plant happy and healthy is to keep an eye out for them and catch them early. Keep an eye out for these indications of a possibly sick fiddle leaf fig.
Brown spots on the leaves
The leaves of fiddle leaf figs are incredibly prone to browning. Brown spots that start to form and spread should be investigated even though a few small markings here and there are not a cause for concern.
Due to two opposing factors—either overwatering or underwatering—most brown patches on fiddles are unfortunately difficult to diagnose. Here’s how to distinguish between them:
Overwatering, which results in root rot, is probably to blame for brown patches that appear in the center of the leaf and spread outward. A fungal illness called root rot will eventually kill your plant by spreading to the leaves. You should repot your plant as soon as possible if it has root rot. Take the plant out of the ground, wash the roots thoroughly, and cut off any that are brown or mushy. After that, repot the plant in new soil with adequate drainage and remove the damaged leaves.
Are the brown spots on your fiddle beginning at the outside border of the leaves and moving inside? The plant is probably too dry for this to be the cause. Give your Fiddle a thorough rinse, and make sure it’s not too close to any heaters or air vents because that will likely cause the plant to dry out more quickly than is desired.
Finally, trauma may cause brown spots to form at random. A plant can suffer trauma just by changing homes (i.e. changing environments). If only one or two of your plant’s brown, damaged leaves are present, remove them at the stem and give your plant some time to heal.
The new growth is smaller than the older leaves
A healthy plant always shows new development, and if your Fiddle’s leaves are getting big and strong, your plant is doing fine.
The presence of little, stunted new leaves, however, may indicate that your plant is deficient in nutrients. Consider repotting your plant if it has been a while since you gave it fresh soil, or just fertilize it in the spring and summer to give it the extra nutrients it requires.
Dropping leaves
Fiddle Leaf Figs can appear to drop their leaves out of nowhere. One leaf here and there is normal; but, if several leaves have fallen off in a short period of time, you must act quickly to rescue the tree. Once more, underwatering or overwatering are the most likely causes of leaf drop in fiddle leaf figs. How then can you distinguish between them? Look at the direction in which the leaves are falling from the plant: if the older leaves (at the bottom) are dropping first, overwatering is probably the cause. On the other hand, if the plant’s leaves are falling off all around, it’s probably not getting enough water. Here are a few more techniques for differentiating.
Leaves turning yellow
Do your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves appear to be yellow? There are several potential reasons:
inadequate lighting Fiddle Leaf Figs require as much direct, strong light as they can get. Even a little direct sunshine is acceptable, but stay away from locations with medium or low light. Remember that a Fiddle that receives insufficient light is more likely to overwater.
a lackluster diet. Due to a deficiency of nutrients in the soil, your Fiddle plant may have yellow leaves. You may want to attempt fertilizing it with liquid fertilizer.
Pests. If fiddles are being attacked by insects, their leaves may also turn yellow. If you have a suspicion that this is the case, thoroughly check the leaves’ top and bottom surfaces for any potential bugs.
Stunted or slowed growth
During the spring and summer, healthy fiddles typically produce new leaves every four to six weeks. It’s possible to see your plant add numerous new leaves in only a few days or weeks because growth usually occurs in spurts. It’s typical for there to be no new growth during the winter. Again, if you don’t observe the expected growth in this plant, it may require new nutrients in the form of a quality plant fertilizer.
Dirty or dusty leaves
When was the last time you washed your plant’s leaves? Plants breathe through their leaves in addition to absorbing sunlight through them. Your plant won’t be able to carry out either of these tasks as effectively as we’d like if a layer of dust is present on its huge leaves. A fantastic technique to keep your Fiddle Leaf Fig plant bright, healthy, and vibrant is to clean the leaves every few months. You may read about various cleaning techniques for your fiddle leaf fig here.
Fiddle Leaf Figs are known to be pickier than most plants, despite the fact that they can be quite low maintenance. Maintain a regular watering routine, fertilize in the spring and summer, and most importantly, ensure that your plant receives enough light year-round (yes, this may require moving it in the winter!). Keep a watch out for any of these symptoms since treating them quickly is essential to keeping your plant healthy and looking nice.
This article was modified from Claire Akin’s Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Resource. For additional information on how to take care of the fiddle leaf fig, see their website.