Some fig trees, like Ficus carica, the common fig tree that produces the fruit we consume most frequently, produce both male and female blooms, allowing pollen from fruits on the same tree to fertilize the female fruits. These figs are thought to be monoecious and yield fruit that is edible or at least tolerable.
Other fig trees, such as the dioecious ficus lyrata, produce fruit that is both male and female. Producing fruit requires multiple trees, which is another reason why fiddles hardly ever produce fruit inside.
Fruit from these dioecious trees typically has a poor flavor. Occasionally, this fruit is utilized as animal feed, but usually it is discarded.
Due to the two-month lifespan of these wasps, ficus trees can yield fruit all year long. So you might see fruit at any time of the year if you have an outside fiddle leaf fig with the right temperature and pollinators!
Can figs be grown on fiddle leaf fig?
Sadly, the fiddle leaf does not produce any fiddles, fruit, or flowers when grown indoors. The fruit that this tree bears, when grown outdoors, is not edible, unlike the common fig (Ficus Carica). Although the figs on these two different trees do have somewhat same size and form.
The Fiddle Fig can reach heights of about 15 meters when planted outdoors, but only about 3 meters when cultivated indoors. The size of the container and careful trimming can frequently be used to manage the size, form, and height of the indoor Fiddle Leaf Fig.
Is the fiddle leaf fig the same as Ficus lyrata?
Ficus lyrata is one of our most popular plants at Flora Grubb Gardens, our nursery in San Francisco, and we almost always have it in stock. Come get yours right now! Continue reading for advice on how to grow and take care of these plants.
The fiddle-leaf fig, or Ficus lyrata, is the ideal interior specimen plant. The plant has erect, violin-shaped leaves that are enormous, densely veined, and tall. Our retail plant shop in San Francisco almost always has Ficus lyrata on hand.
These plants are indigenous to the tropics, where they flourish in hot, muggy weather. As a result, the home grower may find it difficult to replicate these steamy circumstances, making them a little more difficult. Fortunately, they are rather resilient plants that can endure less-than-ideal conditions for a fair amount of time. Last but not least, F. lyrata are really produced as larger specimen plants. If you can place them in a floor-standing planter that will allow the plant to grow to at least 6 feet, that would be ideal. In tropical settings, trees frequently reach heights of 40 feet or more. These are not naturally trimmed down to reasonable sizes due to their enormous leaves, though they can be shaped with light trimming.
Ficus lyrata plants don’t require much maintenance. Spotting on the leaves, which is particularly obvious in a plant with such huge leaves, is one of the most prevalent complaints about these plants. This spotting is typically brought on by a leaf injury, such as mechanical harm or a mite infestation. When exposed to air, the sap of Ficus lyrata can produce these brown patches. The plants are also vulnerable to a number of leaf-spotting and fungus diseases, which are often brought on by poor air circulation and an excessive amount of moisture that collects on the leaves. By keeping the plant well-trimmed and eliminating any dead leaves or twigs that you spot, you can assist stop this form of attack.
However, if your plant is dropping leaves, it’s probably due to inadequate moisture at the roots, low humidity, and cold, dry air. To raise the surrounding humidity, try spraying the plant frequently. Finally, because these plants are particularly sensitive to high salt concentrations, flush your potting soil completely on a regular basis, preferably once a month, to avoid salt buildup.
Pests include aphids, mealybugs, mites, scale, and whiteflies can harm Ficus lyrata. If at all feasible, locate the infestation as soon as you can and use the least hazardous remedy.
Repotting: Healthy specimens have vigorous, quickly developing roots (which is pretty typical for any ficus). Try to repot the plant once a year, increasing the pot size by two to four until the plant is the required size or you can no longer handle the container. After placing plants in large containers, remove the top few inches of soil and replace it once a year with new potting soil.
Advice: Avoid often turning or moving this plant. The plant should be placed permanently, and to keep it clean, use an old T-shirt to dust it. As necessary, stake and prune. Only leaves facing the light will remain on Ficus lyrata; ones facing a darker wall or corner will wither away. If you move or reposition your ficus, be prepared for leaf loss.
Ficus lyrata need strong, filtered light. Even a little sun won’t kill them, especially if they’re in an eastern-facing window. When housed in a too-dark environment, plants won’t develop quickly.
Water: Keep it moist, but don’t let it stand in water because that will cause it to lose leaves and develop root rot.
Fertilizer: For plants that are not in ideal conditions or are recuperating from stress, apply Maxsea All Purpose Fertilizer seasonally and up to monthly.
Do fiddle leaf figs always grow into trees?
The most frequent inquiry I have from readers is how to transform a fiddle leaf fig from bush to tree form ever since I published the article Growing and Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. This article will cover the topic in more detail and, hopefully, provide all the information you need.
I’ve studied and read about fiddle leaf figs for years, as well as grown and experimented with my own. I’m pleased to impart what I’ve discovered, especially given the prevalence of false information.
Will my FLF bush develop into a tree? Yes, it is the answer. FLFs are so adaptable that they can grow to be bushy or be trained to resemble a tree. Making sure that your FLF turns out to look like a tree depends on a few different aspects. First of all, have patience—growing a tree takes time! You might have discovered a smaller, bushier FLF to bring home. Younger, smaller plants are less expensive and less risky to purchase if you’re unsure of your ability to care for them. If it doesn’t stay in your house, the risk is reduced. I occasionally like to bring home smaller plants because you can then explore and mould the plant to your preferences.
Fiddle Leaf Figs have three primary characteristics that distinguish them from bushes: height, one naked trunk, and branches. So let’s examine each one separately:
Height
Fiddle Leaf Figs don’t develop as quickly as other plants, but you can hasten their growth by giving them the correct environment. Three things affect growth: light, soil, and water. It could take some time before you fully comprehend what your FLF wants. Keep a watch on it to see how it reacts to changes in the amount of water and light that it requires. For maximum growth, FLFs require well-draining soil and a decent fertilizer (this one is ideal for FLFs). If you’ve never used fertilizer before, read these suggestions first. Change anything if your FLF isn’t responding well to what you’re doing. To get it right, a little trial and error might be necessary. See my post on growing and trimming your Fiddle Leaf Fig for additional general advice.
Branches
When your FLF reaches the height at which you would like it to branch, you can trim, pinch out, or try notching the tip to promote branching. The plant is informed by pruning the tip that its primary growth tip has been impeded and that it must produce additional shoots in order to survive. If you have a clear concept of where you want a branch to develop, you might want to employ notching, which has a similar effect.
It might seem intimidating to notch a fiddle leaf fig, but it shouldn’t be. If your FLF has a thinner trunk, use a pair of clean, sharp cutters or a razor. Cut the trunk at an angle, about 1/3 deep and halfway across. Above a leaf node, carry out this. Some milky white sap will drip if you’ve done it correctly. Go over the same area once more if the bud below shows no signs of change within a week.
Similar to trimming undesired branches, only be mindful of the impact it will have on the plant and avoid leaving it too bare.
Trunk
The internet is replete of amusing images of the tree-form FLF with a naked, waif-like trunk, in contrast to the bush-form FLF, which typically has its trunk covered in leaves. The lower leaves may naturally fall off after a few years. If you can’t wait that long, pulling off the lower leaves will give you a bare trunk faster, but they won’t grow back. As a final resort, be prepared to prune these leaves. (Of these three parts, the trunk should receive the most attention.)
Because trees are top-heavy and more prone to bending or toppling, the lower leaves support the trunk and aid in its strength development. Be careful to avoid stripping your FLF of too many leaves at once. Your plant’s chances of being unwell or dying increase if there aren’t enough leaves for it to absorb the nutrients it requires from sunshine. To learn how to strengthen a weak or leaning trunk, read my complete advice here.
Multiple trunks: It’s possible that your FLF is actually more than one plant if it appears to have more than one trunk in its container. Try to determine whether they are connected (via a low fork) or if they are independent trunks. When repotting, you should be able to tell if they are distinct or even if you’re not sure. Replant the roots after carefully separating them in several pots.
By following the above instructions, your FLF should eventually start to resemble a tree. Being able to handle this process on your own is enjoyable and really rewarding! Additionally, I’ve discovered that it has given me more information on how to care for them, and I now feel certain that I could get FLF of any size and shape surviving!
Repotting, trimming, and fertilizing should all be done during a FLF’s natural growth seasons of spring and summer to give the plant the most chance to adapt to the changes and respond in a positive way. For more information on fiddle leaf figs, see these posts.
Do you still have concerns about growing a fiddle leaf fig from a bush to a tree? If this was useful or if you have any other questions, please let me know in the comments!
Do flowers bloom on fiddle leaf figs?
It may help to know that fiddle leaf figs often flower and produce fruit in the wild, which is uncommon when they are cultivated inside, if you’ve been wondering why it’s called a fig without any fruit.
Is a fig tree a ficus?
The family Moraceae includes over 900 species of trees, shrubs, and vines under the genus Ficus, many of which are popularly known as figs. They are found all throughout the tropics of the planet but are predominantly native to East Asian tropical regions.
Fiddle leaf figs grow how quickly?
By perfecting your watering routine and locating the ideal location for your plant to flourish, you’ve taken on the difficult tasks. Just a few additional things are necessary for you to understand in order to preserve your fiddle-leaf tree.
Although dusting a plant may seem odd, you absolutely must dust those large, fiddle-shaped leaves. They gather a lot of dust because they are so big and frequently grow somewhat horizontally.
At least once every month, gently wipe the leaves with a moist towel. If you don’t, dust can obstruct sunlight from reaching the plant and clog stomata, which slows photosynthesis and makes the plant struggle to survive.
Fiddle-leaf figs expand rapidly. They frequently grow by one or two feet in a year. If you don’t rotate your plant and leave it in a corner, its growth may quickly become uneven as it reaches for the sun.
There are two options for handling this. Start by frequently rotating it. And second, if it starts to look uneven, make it even by pruning occasionally.
Turn the plant a few inches every several months. In order to remember which way we are moving, I turn Midori in the same direction (clockwise) every time.
Remove some of the leaves on the heavy side of your plant if it begins to grow lopsidedly to give it a more even appearance.
These plants will keep growing upward for as long as they are content. For aesthetics, optimal airflow, and to make sure the plant receives adequate light, trim the highest branches so that the plant remains at least a foot below the ceiling.
Remove any diseased or damaged leaves as well. These won’t recover and are just a drain on your plant. Furthermore, any infections that cause disease could infect the remaining parts of your fiddle-leaf fig and possibly kill them.
Giving your plant a tree-like shape by pruning is another reason you might want to do it. For a bushier shape, some gardeners choose to leave the leaves on the lowest section of the stem intact.
Fiddle leaf figs naturally take on that well-known trunk and canopy shape as they grow in the wild. However, the plant typically retains its bottom leaves indoors.
You can remove the bottom leaves and branches if you want the conventional tree appearance.
To promote excellent air circulation, you might also wish to thin your fig once a year. Any branches that are in the way should be cut.
Put on some gloves before pruning because the sap that is released when these are chopped can irritate the skin. Next, take out a fresh set of pruners. Although you can perform this activity at any time of year, if you do it in the winter, you won’t notice any new growth for a few months.
Cut stems off an inch from the leaf node or stem. Keep in mind that the plant will split where you cut it and sprout new branches as you stimulate the desired shape. If plants are pruned while they are developing, new growth should begin within a few weeks.
You can also remove any stems or leaves that don’t conform to the desired shape. Simply pick no more than a third of the plant at once.
Finally, you can use a pair of scissors to trim the brown pieces off or clip them off totally if some of the leaves have some dark spots at the edges caused by either overwatering or underwatering. There is no point in keeping them around because they won’t regain their color.
You can cut the entire trunk down to about a foot tall and start over if your plant begins to appear sparse as a result of leaf drop or lanky growth, or if you don’t like the shape. From the cut place, the plant will produce new branches, and you can reshape it.
Before you severely prune your plant, think about air layering. If you use the process outlined above, you might get two plants in return for your efforts.