Can You Root Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaves

Fiddle-leaf figs can be multiplied using a few various techniques, including air layering and stem or leaf cuttings, however it takes some time.

With the former, you can grow new miniature plants for your collection, as gifts, or to make use of the leaves and branches you’ve cut off. When trying to save and repot a fiddle-leaf fig that has experienced leaf drop and all of its growth has gathered at the top of a tall, barren stem, the later procedure is helpful. Here are the steps for each of these alternatives.

Can a fiddle leaf be grown from a leaf?

a single fiddle leaf with roots. Because single leaves don’t have lateral buds to produce new stems and leaves, it won’t develop into a plant. The only way it could do that is if a piece of a bud also came off with the leaf, but even then it would take years to grow.

Be Patient

In February of 2018, Jackye embarked on a new fiddle leaf fig voyage. As of June, the majority of her new plants had not yet experienced much new development. New cuttings must be let at least four to eight weeks to root before they can begin to generate new leaves, which can take up to six months.

Before they notice the new roots, many growers give up on their cuttings and discard them, abandoning the tiny plants before they have a chance to start sprouting new leaves. But perseverance pays off; all but three of the 61 cuttings she took produced roots.

Expect Variability

By six weeks, the majority of Jackye’s cuttings had begun establishing new roots, but there was considerable variation. Some people got new roots in 3 or 4 weeks, while others needed 8 or 9 weeks. It’s critical to realize that every cutting is unique and that a variety of elements, including hormones, light, season, and time of day, influence the roots process. Prior to giving up on cuttings that haven’t developed roots, give them at least 10 to 12 weeks.

You Can Root Cuttings in Soil or Water

Cuttings of fiddle leaf figs can grow roots in either humid soil or water. The success of your project is unaffected by the growing medium, although there are advantages and disadvantages to each. Some of Jackye’s cuttings were rooted in both water and soil. After weighing both possibilities, she advises burying the roots in soil to avoid crushing the young, delicate roots while transferring them from water to soil. She did, however, like watching the new roots grow in the water.

A Rooting Hormone Is Critical

Use a rooting hormone whether you are rooting your cuttings in soil or water. Your plant receives instructions from the chemical powder to focus its efforts on growing roots rather than new leaves. Your prospects of success are minimal without it. On all of her cuttings, Jackye applied a substance resembling our Houseplant Propagation Promoter.

Soil Cuttings Don’t Need Drainage

For the purpose of being able to observe fresh development in both the soil- and water-rooted cuttings, Jackye rooted her cuttings in clear plastic Solo cups without any drainage holes. She never allowed them to dry out and maintained them uniformly hydrated. She put them into pots with drainage holes once the roots were strong.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Propagation Can Help Your Original Plant Grow

Jackye was pleased to observe new growth, including additional branches on each plant, after taking more than 60 cuttings from her original eight plants. Cuttings are not harmful to the mother plant when used for propagation, and they may even encourage new development.

Take Cuttings of New Growth if Possible

After a few months, Jackye found that the cuttings she took from the tops of her plants that were actively growing were the ones with the most new growth. For fresh growth, these terminal branches have already been programmed. All eight of the top cuttings she took began to establish roots and new growth in less than four months.

Jackye advises taking a branch or growing tip that is somewhere between six and eighteen inches long. Take off the leaves from the branch’s lower third or so. Place the sliced portion in potting soil after dipping it in rooting hormone. For roughly six weeks, or until you notice new roots, keep it very wet.

You can even divide a lengthy branch into multiple portions when pruning it, making care to leave a few leaves on each section. Fiddle leaf figs are quite powerful and hardy plants; Jackye even tried planting branches without leaves, and they ultimately began to grow again! Just a couple more months were needed.

How much time does it take fiddle leaf cuttings to root?

Keep an eye on your roots system every few days to ensure sure it has adequate water and light by placing it in a well-lit area away from direct sunlight. If the water appears cloudy or muddy, replace it with fresh, chlorine-free water at room temperature.

Step 5: Wait One Month

Your cutting’s roots typically take a month to mature. After around three weeks, you can see the roots growing at the base of the plant. Up to the point that you’re ready to replant, let them grow for another week or so.

Step 6: Plant Your New Rooted Cutting

For the first two months of growth, plant your newly rooted cutting in moist potting soil and be sure to keep it consistently moist to allow the roots to take hold.

Will fig cuttings germinate in liquid?

Cuttings of fig can easily take root in water. You only need a cup, some water, and a pair of clean, heavy-duty scissors or pruners. The entire process might take more than a month, but it could take as little as three weeks.

How does a fiddle leaf fig produce new leaves?

It might be time to pot-up when your Fiddle Leaf Fig appears to be too large for the pot (aka move it to a larger pot). It will have more room to expand and become taller as a result. Additionally, it is a good idea to completely re-pot your FLF so that it has new nutrients to grow with rather than using the same old soil (this entails taking as much soil from the roots as you can, cutting, and planting it in new soil).

How to Train you Fiddle Leaf Fig into a Standard Tree form (from bush / cluster or small plant)

While it may be tempting to start trimming your FLF to make it immediately resemble a standard form using the secateurs, this may not be the best course of action. It’s really alluring looking at those drool-worthy interior design images! Although your FLF may not be in the best shape right now, if you give it some thought and time, you will end up with a much beautiful tree! To get the tree you desire, the process could take at least a few years or seasons of growth, but this is okay. Be patient and take pleasure in the training process.

To start with, don’t pick off the bottom leaves! These aid in supplying nutrients to the lower trunk, strengthening and thickening it as a result. The waif-like trunks of FLFs are well known, but if the trunk is too thin, it won’t be able to support the leafy treetop portion as you want it to, and it will always need to be anchored or lean. The bottom leaves should probably be removed last, in my opinion.

Separating a Cluster: If you have a cluster or collection of FLFs in a pot, you can cut them apart into individual trees. Remove them from their containers at the beginning of the growing season, gently dividing the roots, and providing each plant a root ball that is appropriate for its size (if you have to cut the roots apart, make sure each plant has a root ball that is appropriate for the plant’s size). Replant each in a separate pot.

Be warned that some clusters may not be able to be separated because they share a root ball. This may be the situation if your FLF has a group of stems that are quite near to one another at soil level. This type of cluster separation might cause damage to the plant or possibly cause it to die.

There are ways to encourage your Fiddle Leaf Fig to grow more branches if it now just has a single trunk. To promote new growth, one method is to clip off the tip or top few leaves of the trunk. Another method is known as “notching,” in which a tiny cut is made into the trunk right above a bud that needs to branch. The tree will be duped into branching out at this point by this.

Simply remove any branches near the trunk that you don’t want on your FLF. They can also be employed for cultivating fresh FLFs. This post will be useful for more detailed information on cultivating a FLF tree.

Are you setting out on a trip with a brand-new FLF? Please share your progress with me in the comments section below; I’d love to hear from you.

If you’re looking for more detailed information on fertilizing, trimming, supporting a leaning trunk, and typical FLF fallacies, check out my other Fiddle Leaf Fig postings here.

Should I remove my fiddle leaf fig’s bottom leaves?

You should be aware of what those bottom leaves do before selecting when to remove them.

Lower foliage has the same function as that fresh, vibrant growth up top: the leaves work to mix that green chlorophyll, commonly known as “the meat of the leaf,” with sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water to produce sap, the plant’s own sweet food.

So let them alone if you want the trunk, roots, and new growth to continue receiving energy from the sun through the foliar producers and absorbing it.

Another advantage of the lower leaves is that this is typically where the most frequent watering issues show up. To put it another way, many owners of fiddles may detect overwatering and underwatering based on early warning indicators from these bottom leaves. You lose access to one of the plant’s early warning systems if you remove them.

Keep in mind that the lower leaves should be saved for the very last stage of shaping because they AID in giving the tree its characteristic shape.

Once more, deciding whether or not to remove these lower leaves depends on what they do for the plant.

What happens if the top of a fiddle leaf fig is chopped off?

Your fiddle leaf fig probably has no other branches that will allow it to transition from a fiddle leaf shrub to a fiddle leaf tree. In addition, bear the following in mind before proceeding:

The amount of regrowth that results from pruning depends on how severe it was. The reason for this is that the plant is trying to grow again in an effort to balance the root system below with the shoot system above, which is now designed to support the plant at its bigger size before trimming.

Usually, the most active shoot growth takes place 6 to 8 inches after the pruning cut.

Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig

Make a decision regarding the size of the Ficus lyrata cut. Once more, the branching will be more noticeable the longer a part is clipped. (And the less the plant will grow in height, at least for that shoot.)

Your fiddle leaf fig won’t be encouraged to generate as many lateral branches off of the main trunk if you simply pinch out the fresh buds at the top with your fingers.

If you want to encourage a little lateral development to make your plant appear fuller near the top, pinching is more helpful.

On the other hand, you’ll see a lot more branching if you remove 12 of the top shoots.

Choose the node that you want to cut above. The spots on stems known as nodes are where leaves, buds, or branches can grow. However, not every node has leaves or branches; some nodes may only have a mark and a little thickening of the stem. Internodes are the parts of the stem that lie between the nodes.

3. Make use of a clean pair of pruners. Just above the top of your node, make the cut. Cut just above the node rather than into it, which would harm it.

Any plant in the fig family, including your fiddle leaf fig, will exude an oozing, milky, white sap when cut. Simply avoid eating it, getting it in your eyes, or letting it land on the carpet because it can be annoying.

4. As a final piece of advice, wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.

(Are you wondering what to do with the plant pieces you pruned? Why not cultivate a second fiddle leaf fig?

I’m done now! Now, give your new lateral buds, which will eventually grow into branches, a few weeks. While the exact length of time varies on a number of variables, your chances of success are higher if you attempt this in the spring, when fiddle leaves are actively growing, as opposed to the winter, when they are largely dormant. In comparison to winter, when the plant will need more time to heal the cut and form new buds, springtime will see rapid new development.

Can a leaf be used to clone?

You may easily and amusingly create clones of some of your favorite plants by taking leaf cuttings.

Some plants, but not all, can be multiplied from a single leaf or a portion of a leaf.

The majority of plants that may be propagated from leaf cuttings are regarded as house plants. Sedums, some Begonias, Crassulas, Gloxinias, Peperomias, and several African violets

Always choose a firm, robust leaf when choosing one to use for propagation.

instead of taking a leaf, let it callous for one or two days before sticking the stem end.

parts and struck in a medium that would cut them in two. Make sure the “up” end is up!