Due to their renown for being among the easiest and fastest plants to root from cuttings, figs are frequently one of the first plants many gardeners attempt to clone. And what could make a gardener or homesteader happier than growing plants from seeds they already have for nothing?
Even though figs have been rooted for ages, very few people attempt to graft their fig trees, mostly because doing so is not necessary to grow a strong, healthy, disease-resistant tree. When possible, we try to avoid grafting because it adds cost and work and can weaken the tree or result in suckering branches from the rootstock. However, there are a few instances where we’ve discovered it to be necessary.
One instance is when we want to graft different types onto an existing fig tree to produce a multi-graft fig tree. A multi-graft tree can be quite beneficial, especially for people with limited space. Everyone who has a mature fig tree on their property is aware of how many figs one tree can produce in a single summer, thus it is frequently extremely desired to have many different varieties on one tree in order to spread out the harvest season and diversity the types of figs you will be able to consume!
The other reason we graft figs, and the reason we’re working on it right now in the middle of winter in the greenhouses, is to make otherwise weak kinds more aggressive. Unfortunately, some of the world’s most delicious and rarest types are also some of the least robust. It’s debatable whether this is a trait of the variety or the result of stress, the fig mosaic virus, or being cut on too frequently, but grafting these priceless cuttings onto our strongest types has shown to be a reliable technique to restore or instill vitality. Due to the high vigor of Desert King, Emalyn’s Purple, and the majority of wild seedling figs, as well as the abundance of Desert King fig trees in the Northwest, we frequently use them as rootstock.
The main difference between grafting figs and other trees is that you must take into account their extraordinarily fragile wood and huge, spongy pith. With figs, you have to fit them together like a jigsaw so the wood doesn’t break, unlike most stone fruits and pome fruits whose wood and particularly thick cambium layer allow for a great deal of flexibility.
With figs, the only variation from a wedge graft is that the rootstock must first have the portion where the scion will be fitted removed.
Then, we cut the scion wood as closely as we could to the size and angle of the rootstock cut.
If everything went according to plan with our cuts, we can then put the pieces of the puzzle together.
Then, to prevent drying out, we wrap the entire assembly, including the graft union and the entire scion piece.
Finally, to relieve the excessive pressure caused by the fig sap flow, make two small slits on either side of the rootstock beneath the graft. If you don’t make some cuts in it to ease that strain, figs can potentially force the graft off without joining since they produce so much sap so quickly.
And presto! Ideally, the effort pays off, and you end up with a mouthwatering Black Ischia or Black Madeira that actually has some vitality!
You can graft new types onto your existing tree using the same method. The only difference is that in Portland, we usually do it in April or May, when the figs are just beginning to emerge from dormancy and all risk of frost is passed. It is better to create your multi-grafts on younger trees so that they can establish themselves into substantial fig producing branches without having to compete with each other for light.
So far, both the outdoor and greenhouse grafted figs have experienced very high take rates. Who doesn’t adore a tree that has several different types grafted onto it? It significantly engages the nearby children in horticulture. Ideally, anyway.
If you find that watching the full procedure in action is more useful, check out the video of it below.
Can you transplant fig trees?
In order to make my modest, sunny West Santa Rosa yard’s focal point, I planted a white Genoa fig tree nine years ago and have kept it compact and well-shaped.
Although it is lovely and healthful, the fruits have been underwhelming. They don’t ripen before the first frost because they form slowly. Black Mission figs have a flavor that I greatly enjoy.
Would grafting Mission fig shoots onto the current tree be possible? How long till they start to bear fruit? They’d ripen earlier in the season, right? Should I get a professional to perform the grafting, or could I do it myself? Any further guidance?
The white Genoa is an ancient variety that, as you may have noticed, ripens rather late in the growing season, often right before our early fall frost. The Black Mission bears heavily and ripens faster, but because it grows into a giant tree, it can become too big for your tiny garden space.
They will be a good source for learning how to graft and purchasing grafting wood; who knows, you might even discover a professional who is willing to do it for you. Consult the U.C. Extension office for information on the next scheduled library grafting presentation given by the Sonoma County Master Gardeners. Grafting is a tremendously satisfying activity, and with the right training, you should be able to accomplish it!
Another option for your yard is the Black Jack fig, which stays semi-dwarf and ripens a little later than other options like the Genoa (which ripens much later). Consider growing the semi-dwarf fig in a large container, as some gardeners have done successfully.
How long before a fresh graft bears fruit was your question? If all goes according to plan, maybe a couple of seasons, but don’t hold us to that as a firm answer since it can change. Once more, the true authorities are the growers of rare fruits.
For readers who want to cultivate figs in their gardens, the following information is provided:
The majority of figs roots are close to the soil surface and are susceptible to drying out, therefore pay careful attention to managing soil moisture. A sign of water stress in the afternoon is a slight wilting of the leaves. If wilting is seen, hydrate more regularly when it’s hot outside. Additionally, like with any container plant, figs require frequent watering if they are planted in containers.
Can a fiddle leaf fig be grown from a cutting?
Placing a cutting or a single leaf in water is another traditional way of fiddle leaf fig growth. This technique works well for many individuals, and it’s entertaining because you can watch the rooted develop rather than having to wait for growth or yank on the cutting. In the glass container, they also look lovely.
I’ll admit, though, that it’s not my favored method for growing indoor plants, including fiddle leaf figs.
I prefer to make things as favorable to myself as possible whenever I can. As a result, I find that no commercial growers employ the water approach when deciding how to best propagate.
If you give it any thought, however, it makes sense. Since Ficus lyrata is not an aquatic plant, water propagation will not be the best environment for it to flourish in. But since most who attempt it succeed, it must be able to grow quite well in water.
Use a cutting with roughly 3 nodes, as mentioned above, rather than a single leaf for the greatest outcomes. (For an explanation of why using single leaves is not a wise choice, see below.)
Place the sliced piece in fresh water in a dimly lit area. To keep the oxygen levels stable, change the water every several days.
Here is where I fail with this approach. Normally, I forget. In comparison to an unwatered plant pot that seems dry and feels light as a feather, the water in the glass appears the same.
Because plants require oxygen, soil is a better environment for them than water. While there is some oxygen in water, it fades off the surface when the water is motionless. (A bubbler is required in aquariums in order to maintain the water’s oxygen levels.)
Watch for the roots to form; it took my leaf more than 6 weeks to do so. (Results are shown in the section below.)
How can a fiddle leaf fig be grown from a branch?
To explore if roots could develop from a single leaf, I started with a leaf and four stem cuttings. I placed the other 2 stem cuttings in damp potting soil after placing the bases of 2 stem cuttings and 1 leaf in water.
The cuttings should be kept in a water-filled, clean glass vase in a warm, well-lit area away from the sun. I just changed the water when it was foggy, which only happened a few times. Use tap water that is at room temperature and wait a day for the chlorine to dissipate before using.
On the stem base of the watered-down cuttings, a few tiny popcorn-like spots started to develop after 4 weeks.
Wow, roots are developing in the water after 6–8 weeks! Water replacement is not necessary at this time.
You can place the rooted Fiddle Leaf Fig cuttings in soil and watch them grow once the roots are around 1 to 2 inches long!
How is a fiddle leaf fig resouled?
You should perform these steps outside because they will be a little messy. If leaving the house is not an option, spread out an old bedsheet to collect any more dirt.
Fill the new container with 4 inches of soil.
To create a bed for the root ball to rest, add dirt to your new container.
As the top of the soil should be slightly lower than the top of the container, make sure your root ball won’t sit too high once it’s in place. If the earth is laying too low, add extra.
Remove the plant from the old container.
Avoid damaging the roots at all costs. If your root ball becomes trapped, you might want to use scissors to cut down the container’s side.
Before you repot your plant, I do not advise watering it because this might make the root ball more messy and prone to breaking.
Place the plant in the new container and fill with soil.
Put handfuls of soil around the base of the plant while holding it upright to fill in the sides of the container surrounding the root ball.
Until your container is full, gently compact the soil around the root ball. Avoid over-compaction because your plant requires space for its roots to expand.
Water your plant generously.
Give your plant plenty of water, completely filling the pot to ensure that any significant air bubbles are filled with dirt.
If the margins of your soil are lower than the middle, you might need to add more dirt at this point.
You’re done once you’ve watered the plant and the soil is evenly distributed across the top of the container. To get rid of any dirt or dust, quickly rinse the plant’s leaves and the container.
Let your plant dry and drain the reservoir.
Give your plant about an hour to dry off before tilting the pot sideways to drain the reserve.
Before moving your plant inside, be sure to drain as much of the reservoir’s water as you can to prevent leaks.
Wait one month, then fertilize.
After giving your plant a month to rest and recover from the change, start giving it Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Food every time you water. 1 teaspoon should be diluted in 1 cup of regular water. Your plant will soon be flourishing and adding new leaves!
What happens if the top of a fiddle leaf fig is chopped off?
Your fiddle leaf fig probably has no other branches that will allow it to transition from a fiddle leaf shrub to a fiddle leaf tree. In addition, bear the following in mind before proceeding:
The amount of regrowth that results from pruning depends on how severe it was. The reason for this is that the plant is trying to grow again in an effort to balance the root system below with the shoot system above, which is now designed to support the plant at its bigger size before trimming.
Usually, the most active shoot growth takes place 6 to 8 inches after the pruning cut.
Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig
Make a decision regarding the size of the Ficus lyrata cut. Once more, the branching will be more noticeable the longer a part is clipped. (And the less the plant will grow in height, at least for that shoot.)
Your fiddle leaf fig won’t be encouraged to generate as many lateral branches off of the main trunk if you simply pinch out the fresh buds at the top with your fingers.
If you want to encourage a little lateral development to make your plant appear fuller near the top, pinching is more helpful.
On the other hand, you’ll see a lot more branching if you remove 12 of the top shoots.
Choose the node that you want to cut above. The spots on stems known as nodes are where leaves, buds, or branches can grow. However, not every node has leaves or branches; some nodes may only have a mark and a little thickening of the stem. Internodes are the parts of the stem that lie between the nodes.
3. Make use of a clean pair of pruners. Just above the top of your node, make the cut. Cut just above the node rather than into it, which would harm it.
Any plant in the fig family, including your fiddle leaf fig, will exude an oozing, milky, white sap when cut. Simply avoid eating it, getting it in your eyes, or letting it land on the carpet because it can be annoying.
4. As a final piece of advice, wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.
(Are you wondering what to do with the plant pieces you pruned? Why not cultivate a second fiddle leaf fig?
I’m done now! Now, give your new lateral buds, which will eventually grow into branches, a few weeks. While the exact length of time varies on a number of variables, your chances of success are higher if you attempt this in the spring, when fiddle leaves are actively growing, as opposed to the winter, when they are largely dormant. In comparison to winter, when the plant will need more time to heal the cut and form new buds, springtime will see rapid new development.