As I indicated earlier, many growers like to cultivate a traditional tree shape, complete with a distinct canopy and trunk. However, F. lyrata tends to grow in a columnar or bushy shape when kept as a houseplant.
In the wild, F. lyrata does this on its own by losing its lower leaves and growing into its original shape as a banyan tree.
like the renowned “Wild F. lyrata and ordinary banyan, F. benghalensis, both start out their lives as epiphytes. When a seed falls into another tree’s canopy, it germinates, develops, and eventually strangles its host plant as it descends to the ground.
Your houseplant won’t do this, of course, but the tree shape is attractive. How can a rambunctious F. lyrata be transformed into a tall, graceful specimen?
First off, if you’ve recently acquired a highly sought-after fiddle-leaf, hold off on starting to prune it into a tree shape.
Whatever two-thirds of the intended height means to you within the boundaries of your space, let it grow to that point. The trunk might become strong and thick as a result.
It’s advisable to top the tree out at least eight to ten inches away from the ceiling if you want it to grow tall.
This not only improves the appearance but also prevents the top leaves from bending and slamming against your ceiling.
Say, for instance, that you want to top your tree off at about seven or eight feet and that your home has nine-foot ceilings. You shouldn’t begin trimming for lateral growth until the trunk is at least five feet tall based on these measurements.
Wait until spring or summer when the plant is actively growing before pruning your fiddle-leaf fig to generate a tree form with branching lateral growth. Then, make a cut at least six inches down from the tip of the tree.
You can preserve and grow this cutting! Cut in an internodal space, if possible.
Don’t remove the leaves that are below the cut. So that the plant can photosynthesize and generate energy to grow those lateral branches, you want them to stay.
Within a few weeks, your F. lyrata will start to branch from the cut. Although this tree occasionally produces just one branch, it frequently produces two or three additional lateral branches.
You can remove one or two leaves from the tree’s base once the new branches have developed leaves.
The hue of the leaves and emerging branches will deepen as the canopy ages. Feel free to remove one or two more leaves from the bottom part of the trunk once you become aware of this.
You can continue to prune leaves away from the tree’s trunk as the canopy grows over time. You’ll eventually grow a tidy trunk that supports a Y-shaped canopy.
Note: Some knowledgeable gardeners enjoy using a technique called “creating lateral branches by notching. Using this technique, the gardener carefully cuts through two nodes. This cut is supposed to encourage the tree to generate lateral branches without losing height.
Because of the fast growth of F. lyrata and the fact that we are confident that pruning for lateral branch growth yields reliable results, we advise using this technique to produce that attractive canopy.
After pruning, give your plant the best care possible by providing it with the right amount of water, fertiliser, and light, which will hasten the healing of its wounds.
Can I remove the fiddle leaf fig’s top?
Your fiddle leaf fig probably has no other branches that will allow it to transition from a fiddle leaf shrub to a fiddle leaf tree. In addition, bear the following in mind before proceeding:
The amount of regrowth that results from pruning depends on how severe it was. The reason for this is that the plant is trying to grow again in an effort to balance the root system below with the shoot system above, which is now designed to support the plant at its bigger size before trimming.
Usually, the most active shoot growth takes place 6 to 8 inches after the pruning cut.
Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig
Make a decision regarding the size of the Ficus lyrata cut. Once more, the branching will be more noticeable the longer a part is clipped. (And the less the plant will grow in height, at least for that shoot.)
Your fiddle leaf fig won’t be encouraged to generate as many lateral branches off of the main trunk if you simply pinch out the fresh buds at the top with your fingers.
If you want to encourage a little lateral development to make your plant appear fuller near the top, pinching is more helpful.
On the other hand, you’ll see a lot more branching if you remove 12 of the top shoots.
Choose the node that you want to cut above. The spots on stems known as nodes are where leaves, buds, or branches can grow. However, not every node has leaves or branches; some nodes may only have a mark and a little thickening of the stem. Internodes are the parts of the stem that lie between the nodes.
3. Make use of a clean pair of pruners. Just above the top of your node, make the cut. Cut just above the node rather than into it, which would harm it.
Any plant in the fig family, including your fiddle leaf fig, will exude an oozing, milky, white sap when cut. Simply avoid eating it, getting it in your eyes, or letting it land on the carpet because it can be annoying.
4. As a final piece of advice, wait to remove leaves from the trunk of your fiddle leaf until the new branches have begun to grow. Your plant should be as robust as possible because those leaves aid in the development of the new lateral buds.
(Are you wondering what to do with the plant pieces you pruned? Why not cultivate a second fiddle leaf fig?
I’m done now! Now, give your new lateral buds, which will eventually grow into branches, a few weeks. While the exact length of time varies on a number of variables, your chances of success are higher if you attempt this in the spring, when fiddle leaves are actively growing, as opposed to the winter, when they are largely dormant. In comparison to winter, when the plant will need more time to heal the cut and form new buds, springtime will see rapid new development.
Can I chop my fig tree’s top off?
Yes, you can overprune a fig tree, but since they are extremely hardy, as long as you do it during the dormant season, they shouldn’t suffer too much. To maintain the tree healthy, don’t prune more than 25% of the tree overall in a single year.
A tree will produce fewer figs the following year if too much of this year’s growth is removed since figs develop on this year’s growth.
How are bushy fiddle leaf figs made?
Fiddle Leaf Figs can be encouraged to branch by notching, which doesn’t entail the plant’s height being reduced. Instead, tiny cuts or “notches” are made all the way up and down the stem or trunk to promote the formation of new growth lower on the plant.
There are two distinct notching patterns. The first slashes diagonally through the FLF trunk at a depth of about one-third, immediately above a leaf or node. Similar in nature, the second involves two cuts and the removal of a tiny “chunk” or piece of the trunk. To remove a small portion of the trunk, make the two slices just 1-2 mm apart.
It might be challenging to properly notch a plant without accidently decapitating it or cutting too deeply. It’s unquestionably a more sophisticated technique with variable outcomes. If you want to try it, I also advise going numerous notches. Not all of them have a 100% success rate. So if you want two or three branches, you might want to do six notches.
The best stem for notching is one that is more aged or woody. It might be advisable to wait till your FLF stem reaches maturity if it is still green before attempting to notch.
Tips for Notching:
- You may have more control over the notch with a craft knife than with a pair of cutters.
- Directly above a leaf or node, cut the notch.
- Cut the notch diagonally, about a third of the way into the stem’s depth.
How are figs cut?
Though summer is slowly drawing to an end, on the plus side, the juiciest, sweetest figs are available in late summer. Today I’ll share with you some advice on how to peel and cook fresh figs as well as some mouthwatering, nutritious recipes that the whole family will enjoy.
Three fig trees can be found in the large garden of my in-laws’ home in Sardinia, Italy. Every morning when he wakes up, my kid goes with nonno to the fig trees to select the ripest fruit. He has literally become an expert on figs over night, explaining in great detail how to distinguish between figs that are fully ripe, those that are approaching ripeness, and those that are not suitable for picking, not to mention providing clear instructions on how to pick them directly from the tree.
Despite their diminutive size, figs are a powerhouse of vitamins, minerals, fibre, antioxidants, calcium, manganese, iron, and potassium. They are also really adaptable; they create highly original savoury appetisers, such as prosciutto-wrapped breadsticks or cheese board additions, or they offer a vibrant touch to desserts like tarts and muffins.
Growing your own fig trees has the benefit that you can consume them skin and all straight from the tree. Fresh figs can be consumed with the skin on, but some recipes, like those for jam, call for peeling them to create a smoother texture. While fresh figs can occasionally be hard to acquire and can get rather expensive when out of season, dried figs are widely available in grocery shops. Since the skins can still contain pesticides when I buy them in Canada, I prefer to peel them. Even though I adore using fresh figs in dishes, eating them straight off the tree is still my preferred method of consumption. For texture, we occasionally sprinkle them with raw, local honey or top them with chopped almonds or pistachios.
Avoid buying unripe figs since they do not ripen after being plucked. On the other hand, fresh figs are difficult to peel when they are fully ripe because they become extremely soft and exude a nectar that resembles honey from the blossom side. Always select figs with unbroken skins that are plump, supple, and vividly coloured. They need to smell pleasant and yield only little when you press firmly with your fingers.
Figs have a relatively short shelf life, so store them properly. They can only be stored after harvest for a few days at most. For a maximum of three days, keep them in the refrigerator in a shallow Tupperware container with a paper towel-lined bottom and a loosely-wrapped plastic top.
Peeling advice: Cut or twist off the stem, then cut (make a “X”) the top of the fig with a sharp knife (approximately 1/3 of the way up).
Disperse the four halves. Each piece should have its skin and pulp separated by a sharp knife. Cut through each piece at a depth of about 3/4 inch.
Use your hands or a sharp knife to peel the skin until you reach the bottom side of the fig (from top to bottom). Take off and throw away the skin.
Remove all of the fig’s remaining bottom-side skin, leaving only the pulp.
Figs blend nicely and provide natural sweetness to smoothies, making them a fantastic addition. A simple and wholesome dish, this Turmeric-Spiced Fig & Banana Smoothie is great for babies and children of all ages.
How is a fig tree kept in check?
Naturally, unfertilized fruit has no seeds. Fortunately, fig trees easily reproduce thanks in part to their propensity for suckers. It is possible to make a plant that can be passed down from one generation to the next by taking a division of the tree and planting it.
Pruning a fig tree in the fall and taking numerous leafless, pencil-thick cuttings, bundling them, and burying them horizontally in the ground below the frost line are two of the most popular methods of fig tree propagation. The cuttings will callus over the winter and develop roots. Dig up the bundle in the spring and plant the cuttings, rooted point down, in the ground. Top branches will soon form and eventually grow into a bountiful tree if given even moisture and protection.
Figs may be cultivated in even the smallest backyard spaces by being pruned as shrubs, which is a benefit for urban edible landscapers. Wear gloves during pruning because some figs’ sap might irritate the skin. Shrub-pruned figs look fantastic planted next to other shrubs like rhododendrons and roses because of their huge, deeply lobed leaf.