These cacti have no spines and are completely safe for your dragon. Another excellent addition to your dragons’ enclosure is an elephant feed shrub. With the right illumination, these shrubs can expand swiftly and creep over your woodlands to give your vivarium a more realistic appearance.
What kind of live plants are edible to bearded dragons?
9 Plants that are Safe in Bearded Dragon Habitats
- Plants of Haworthia (Haworthia spp.)
- Echeveria (Echeveria spp.)
- Cacti with spines (Opuntia spp.)
- Aloe Trees (Aloe vera)
- Shrunken Jade Plants (Portulacaria afra)
- Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
- Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) (Petroselinum crispum)
- Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
Can you eat elephant bushes?
Elephant bush, Portulacaria afra, is a South African perennial succulent shrub that is grown in succulent gardens all over the world. In our region of the world, it is simply planted as a seasonal accent plant or low-maintenance houseplant. It is a rocky outcrop or slope that can be found from the Little Karoo in the Western Cape to the Eastern Cape northward into KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland, Mpumalanga, the Limpopo Province, and farther north into Mozambique. It is also sometimes called elephant food or elephant plant; dwarf jade, miniature jade, or small leaf jade (but is not related to jade plant, Crassula ovata);
Although it is thought to belong to the Portulacaceae plant family, which only includes species found in Madagascar, molecular phylogenetic studies indicate this genus belongs to the Didiereaceae. According to recent studies, P. afra is a superior “carbon sponge” that can efficiently absorb more carbon from the air than most other plants (since it can grow using both normal and CAM pathways despite challenging climatic conditions) and remove more carbon from the atmosphere than an equivalent amount of deciduous forest.
In mild regions, this upright, multi-stemmed shrub or small tree with soft woods can reach heights of 8 to 15 feet (hardy in zones 9- 11). Round to oval-shaped, fleshy, virtually sessile (lacks a discernible petiole), 1/2–3/4 inch long leaves are flattened and thick. The tapering branches and brittle, fleshy, reddish-brown stems that support the opposing, glossy leaves eventually turn a grayish color. The branches and trunk have a woody inner tissue despite being succulent. If not clipped, the stiff, disorganized branches will develop into a thicket. In the event that heavy branches break, they frequently take root where they land and start new plants. Jade plant-like in appearance, but with much smaller leaves that are typically closer together on thinner stalks.
The leaf was once employed as a medicine for a number of minor diseases. It is edible and is frequently consumed in southern Africa, mainly in salads or soups to provide a sour flavor. Because of its capacity to stay succulent through periods of scorching heat and dryness, it is commonly consumed by domestic and wild animals and is a favorite diet of tortoises. Elephants do consume the plant, leaving behind the lower, spreading branches and numerous broken twigs when they strip the branches of the leaves. These roots eventually help the colony to grow and thicken, giving rise to new thickets called “spekboomvelds.”
The plant cannot survive because other animals, including goats, devour it from the ground up. Except in places like parks or reserves where non-native browsers are restricted, overgrazing and inadequate regeneration are causing elephant bush populations to decline. This is because P. afra seed has a difficult time germinating in its native habitat.
After a dry winter without irrigation, plants in their natural habitat (or in regions like Southern California where they can be planted in the ground) produce a profusion of small, unnoticeable pink or white blooms in late spring or early summer. The flowers are difficult to cultivate. At the tips of the branches, clusters of flowers are created. Five pointed petals and conspicuous stamens are features of the star-shaped blooms. Tiny, clear to pink, berry-like dry fruits with one seed each follow pollinated flowers.
Elephant bushes thrive best in hanging baskets, as part of mixed succulent dish gardens, or as delicate bonsai specimens in the Midwest because of their dense branching, which lends even young plants a venerable appearance. By pinching or trimming just above a pair of leaves, the plant may easily be retained in practically any size or form because it readily generates buds whenever branches or even leaves are removed.
The succulent plant’s compact root ball fits into standard shallow bonsai pots nicely and requires less continual care because it can tolerate drying better than more classic bonsai subjects like maples or evergreens. To add contrast in color and texture, stage plants in containers alone with other potted plants. However, despite the fact that they may grow in very little soil, because of their top-heavy succulent leaves and stems, plants may need to be anchored with a rock or stake until they are well-established. The stems’ crimson hue works well as a color echo with plants with red, purple, or dark foliage, and the medium-fine texture of the foliage contrasts nicely with wide-leaved annuals or perennials like coleus or heucheras. To thrive, Portulacaria afra needs exceptionally well-drained soil and bright light. Avoid using a lot of sand since the particle size tends to be small and will fill pore spaces more quickly than other materials. Instead, use cactus mix or a bespoke potting medium with generous amounts of small pea gravel, poultry grit, pumice, or other non-porous minerals. The best pottery to use for better moisture evaporation is unglazed pottery. Typically, a south-facing window inside is the best option, but eastern or western exposures are also suitable. Too much direct sunlight may burn the foliage or cause the tips of the leaves to turn yellow or red, which some people love. To locate the best position for optimum growth, some location-testing may be necessary. After all threat of frost has gone, potted plants can be brought outside for the growing season. If a plant is suddenly relocated from inside a house to full sun outdoors, the leaves are likely to become burnt. Instead, gradually adapt the plant to the new environment. When the nighttime temperature falls below 40°F, go back inside. If there is less light indoors than there was outdoors, it can lose some leaves when it transitions.
Elephant bushes are quite drought resilient, yet with enough water, they develop more quickly and have lusher foliage. It is vulnerable to root rot in constantly damp soil, so take care not to overwater it. Winter irrigation should be minimized. Withhold water until the lower leaves start to shrink, which could take several months, unless the indoor climate is extremely light and warm. Once the day lengthens in the spring, begin watering sparingly once more, waiting until the soil has dried to a depth of one inch before doing so. Plants in pots need fertilizer every month during the growing season (or more frequently if pruning a lot to grow a dense plant in a small container). Repot the plant when the container is full or when the roots are poking through the drainage holes. Although mealybugs can be a problem, especially indoors, this plant has few pests. It does not tolerate some pesticide applications, like many succulents do. Chemicals with a petroleum base should be avoided, or tested on a small number of leaves first to ensure that the material won’t harm the leaves.
This plant can be grown from seed, however cuttings are the most common method of propagation. Within 4 to 6 weeks in any kind of potting medium at mild temperatures, stem cuttings can easily root. The optimum times to take cuttings are in the spring or summer, and the cut areas should be given a few days to callus before being placed in the rooting media. They can also take root in liquid. Even leaves that are broken off by accident while trimming or performing other tasks have the potential to take root.
There are many different kinds, but the majority of them can only be found at specialized nurseries. It is conceivable that some mislabeling occurs, which could lead to the sale of identical plants under several labels. The green varieties are typically larger and more robust than the variegated varieties.
- ‘Aurea’ is a compact type, and in full sun, the young leaves are a vivid yellow.
- Because of its fissured, corky bark, “Cork Bark,” chosen by a bonsai expert, is coveted for bonsai.
- The slow-growing variegated variant “Foliis variegatus” is perfect for container culture.
- The leaves on “Limpopo” are substantially bigger. It is the species’ most northern native form (P. afra forma macrophylla).
- The variety known as “Medio-picta” has red stems and green leaves with pale patterns radiating from the center.
- Low-growing varieties that are good for use as ground covers are “Prostrata” and “Low Form.”
- Variegata has a more compact, upright form, lighter-colored leaves with pink accents and white or cream edges than the species, although it is less tolerant of direct sunlight.
What kinds of trees eat bearded dragons?
The importance of humidity and how to set up lighting in a bearded dragon’s vivarium were covered in the previous post. For more on setup guidelines and the best lights for your bearded dragon, see the page.
For efficient basking, relaxation, chilling, hiding, climbing, and other activities, your bearded dragon need a range of different accessories and pieces of furniture.
It’s crucial to include one or more large branches in the bearded dragon’s terrarium. Bearded dragons enjoy climbing branches, fences, and rocks to catch some sun. They are semi-arboreal creatures. Though there should be open area for walking and other accessories in about 70% of the terrarium.
Without some kind of platform, the terrarium will appear barren and unappealing. Additionally, it won’t provide your bearded dragon with a place to climb, exercise, or sunbathe like they would in the wild.
Additionally, including a platform or branch will enable your bearded dragon to approach the light source for basking. Depending on the terrarium’s size, pick one or two branches.
One of them should be exposed to the basking light at all times. Each bearded dragon should have a branch if there aren’t many bears in the vivarium. A branch should not be able to fall and crush your dragon.
These grapewood branches, oak, maple, driftwood, lilac, Mopani wood, fruit trees, and willow are the greatest sorts of branches for your bearded dragon’s tank that you can buy. Almost everything that is non-toxic can be used.
Be careful not to select any coniferspine trees, cedar, yew, juniper, cypress, spruce, redwood, or other harmful branches for your bearded dragon. Pick the branches that are thought to be secure for your bearded dragon to be on the safe side.
A platform or a rock are two other possibilities for your bearded dragon’s basking location. However, a branch or a rock shouldn’t be substituted for a platform because these additions provide your bearded dragon a more naturalistic setting. It’s best to set up multiple platforms or basking spots for your bearded dragon. In a terrarium, it’s crucial to provide one basking area for each bearded dragon.
This kind of rock platform would be a nice addition for your bearded dragon to climb on for sunbathing or to go below for resting or even hiding. A rock platform can be placed in a corner or on the terrarium’s side.
You may also acquire a flat rock similar to this one for your bearded dragon to lay on while it soaks up the sun. Put it directly beneath the lamp for soaking.
Make sure to inspect and clean any rock that you are bringing if it has been collected yourself for any sharp edges.
You must sterilize a branch before putting it in the bearded dragon’s terrarium. You can clean a branch that you purchased or acquired in one of two ways.
If you have one, bake the branch in the foil for 30 to 50 minutes at 230 degrees Fahrenheit (110 Celsius).
You must clean the branches you have gathered from the woods more carefully. After gathering the branch, take it inside and clean off any apparent pests and debris. Even better, remove the bark to help get rid of most bugs. The branch should then be washed with soapy water.
The branch should next be cleaned by soaking it in a tub of bleach solution. Bleach solution is made by combining 1 component bleach and 8 parts water. The branch should be submerged in bleach for 20 minutes before being thoroughly rinsed several times to remove it. The branch should be dried after being washed of the bleach before being added to the terrarium.
It might not be the best idea to bake collected rocks. The issue is that some rocks might blow up when you bake them. Instead, disinfect them, but make sure to thoroughly rinse out any bleach.
It is a good idea to secure large boulders, platforms, and other weakly constructed objects to the bottom of the terrarium to guarantee the safety of your bearded dragon.
Large accessories should be sealed so they don’t fall and hurt your bearded dragon. Use an aquarium silicone sealant that is non-toxic to affix a piece of furniture.
For your bearded dragon, branches and rocks are especially crucial since they help them wear down their nails. Your bearded dragon’s nails will grow excessively long and begin to curl if you don’t add any branches or other decorations with rough surfaces.
You must provide a place where your bearded dragon may cool off, hide when it feels threatened, or simply unwind. Bearded dragons frequently opt to hide from the others for a while because hiding is natural to them. More often than adults, bearded dragon hatchlings opt to hide since they are even more defenseless. The ideal hiding place should be spacious, usually dark, and easy for your bearded dragon to access and escape.
A hollow log shelter is one of the best options for a bearded dragon’s hiding place. Another choice is a hollow spherical cork peel that may be shaped and sized anyway you like.
You might also build your own hiding place. But how do you pick a material for a hiding place? Well, as long as it’s not toxic, it could be virtually anything. It could be made of wood or even storage bins made of plastic. Make sure to eliminate any sharp edges or sides before cutting the hole for entry and exit. If required, utilize a metal file.
If your bearded dragon hides a lot, the most crucial thing to keep in mind is to set up something that is not completely enclosed. Your bearded dragon won’t receive enough UVB sun and heat, which might cause MBD, if it hides a lot.
As a result, if your dragon hides frequently, be careful to purchase or create a hide that isn’t completely enclosed. You can even set up a tiny area where you can hide behind a tree branch, a plant, or something else that does not block light coming from above.
A shedding box that your bearded dragon will use while shedding can also be placed. Put the shedding box in the tank’s corner. Alternately, you could introduce it when shedding occurs. You can create a shedding box out of a plastic storage box, wood, or carton, and it should resemble a hide box.
Add some moss or vermiculite substrate to the shedding box to increase humidity and retain moisture. You could spritz your dragon or spray some water in there.
Plants provide the vivarium of your bearded dragon a naturalistic appearance and feel. For the terrarium housing your bearded dragon, you can select both real and artificial plants.
However, real plants must endure both the bearded dragon and hot temps! However, fake plants don’t require any maintenance and have a realistic appearance. Ensure that both indoor and outdoor terrariums include plants (if you have one).
Select trees and plants that your bearded dragon can climb and rest on without their breaking. Your bearded dragon is likely to chew and devour plant leaves, climb on them, and dig under them. Occasionally, purchasing fake plants is a wiser move.
Higher humidity levels necessitate their maintenance. And bring the plants in pots rather than planting them in the substrate. In order to make the substrate wet and increase the humidity in the vivarium if you plant them, you will need to water it. Pests like aphids can also be found in the soil with live plants.
Your bearded dragon will become intrigued and begin investigating the terrarium as soon as you add fresh plants or other decorations. Don’t panic; bearded dragons occasionally stop biting and damaging plants a few days after being introduced.
If, after about a week, your beardie is still chewing on a fake plant, change it out for another one or get rid of it entirely. This is necessary to prevent your bearded dragon from ingesting any fragments of plastic from fake plants.
Keep your bearded dragon away from any plants that are harmful to it (read about toxic plants here). For instance, you cannot put an aloe or an amaryllis in the tank of your bearded dragon since they are poisonous!