Where Do Dragon Trees Grow

In the garden, a dragon? The dragon tree Dracaena draco has a distinctive appearance, with a fat and scaly trunk, leggy succulent branches that reach upward to support an umbrella-like canopy of rosette-shaped foliage clusters, stiff blue-green leaves shaped like swords, and greenish-white flowers that are later replaced by dripping strands of red and black berries.

The Canary Islands of Spain, Madeira, Morocco, Cape Verde, and Morocco are all home to dragon trees. Only a few hundred dragon trees remain, yet five of the seven Canary Islands still have them. In Morocco’s Anti-Atlas Mountains, where thousands are said to grow along steep, stony cliffs in difficult-to-reach canyons, new subpopulations were found in 1996.

They can resist drought, full sun and partial shade, sea spray, and temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. They can also withstand intense heat and cold (-7 degrees Celsius). To make the most of the little water resources in their environment, the tree’s clusters of long leaves gather rain and moisture from the air.

Can a dragon blood tree be grown in the US?

Outdoor Dragon’s Blood Plantation You can grow D. draco outdoors if you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. It will grow a thick, cylindrical trunk with sword-shaped rosettes on top, just like a houseplant.

Can dragon trees be grown in containers?

If your soil is unsuitable or you don’t have enough room for a dragon tree in your garden, it can also be grown in pots. It produces a fairly attractive pot plant that requires little care because it grows slowly.

Can dragon trees be grown outside?

Patience is the first guideline of developing dragon trees. Since they grow slowly, it will take a lot of patience to see them blossom to their full potential. Some estimates state that it takes them ten years to grow their first five feet.

You’ll need plenty of indirect sunlight for your dragon tree. The leaves will get pale from insufficient light, but they will develop brown blotches from too much direct light. In order to shield it from the sun, you should plant dragon trees outside in the shadow. Keep them close to your East, West, or South windows inside, or place them a few feet away from those windows.

Additionally, make sure your chosen site for the Dragon tree is not too chilly. The leaves on the tree will fall off if the temperature suddenly decreases. The ideal temperature range for dragon trees is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

To plant this tree, you won’t initially need a huge container, but you will need the correct kind of soil. The ideal potting mix would be loose and well-drained. It should also have a pH balance between 6.0 and 6.5 and little perlite. Fill your pot with it, then give your dragon plant plenty of water. However, don’t go overboard because too much water will destroy the Dragon Plant. When you know the top inch of soil is dry, water the plant only then, draining any extra water from the bottom of the pot.

To nourish the plant, apply fertilizer sparingly. Each two weeks during the spring and summer, fertilize. Fertilize every month during the fall and winter. Superphosphate fertilizer should be avoided. Instead, water the plant after feeding it with a slow-release all-purpose fertilizer. You’re doing a great job of cultivating your plant. Let’s now discuss how to take care of your dragon tree as it ages.

Where is a dragon tree located?

The renowned millennium dragon tree, also known as the “drago milenario,” is a living national monument located at Icod de los Vinos, in the north of Tenerife. It stands at 18 meters high and has a 20-meter perimeter, making it by far the park’s primary attraction and a representation of Tenerife. The Millennial Dragon Tree Park, where you may stroll around the trails and gardens, is the greatest place to learn about the tree and other endemic species from the islands.

The Guanches, Tenerife’s native people, have historic burial grounds that may be seen in the park, along with several examples of still-practical island customs. Within the park, there is a picnic area and a group of knowledgeable guides who specialize in Canarian flora and are happy to answer any queries.

What is the world’s rarest tree?

The rarest plant on Earth may be the tree species known solely as Pennantia baylisiana. In fact, it was formerly referred to as such in the Guinness Book of World Records. On one of the Three Kings Islands off the coast of New Zealand, there is only one tree in the wild, and it has been there by itself since 1945. Before humans brought goats to the island, which ate every other member of their species, it wasn’t as isolated.

Scientists have attempted to develop more P. baylisiana trees over the past few decades, but aside from the difficulty of growing cuttings, basic biology stood in the way: the tree was first believed to be female, and it appeared to require a male to adequately produce fruit and seeds.

Peter de Lange, a scientist with the New Zealand Department of Conservation (DoC), discovered numerous surprising facts while creating a recovery strategy for the species in the early 1990s. First, P. baylisiana seedlings that were grown by gardeners on the New Zealand mainland turned out to be pure specimens of the species rather than hybrids with other Pennantia species as first believed (all cloned from cuttings of the original plant). Second, after hand pollination, one of the seedlings really developed fruit. De Lange came to the conclusion that perhaps the wild tree wasn’t really a female after all. The tree was similarly thought to be female but appeared to possess a low degree of male-like traits that would enable it to pollinate itself, according to related studies released around the same time.

Since then, nurseries on the mainland have sold hundreds of P. baylisiana seedlings, but scientists have been reluctant to bring trees or seeds back to the Three Kings Islands out of concern that they would spread fungi or diseases that would destroy the native, healthy tree.

De Lange and his crew, however, are going back to the Three Kings Islands this year to plant 1,600 P. baylisiana seeds. According to de Lange, the seeds have been meticulously processed to obliterate any chance of disease. “We removed the meat, air-dried the seeds, and then cleaned them in a lamina flow hood with 10 percent hypochlorite and 70 percent ethanol. The seeds grew well after this treatment, and a preliminary examination revealed no signs of any viruses or other disorders.”

So, P. baylisiana seeds are making their way back to their original habitat, and it is hoped that new trees will follow soon. It will likely take the seeds six to ten years to become big enough to begin blooming. The project will go on until there are 500 mature trees that are viable.

Although there is still risk, according to De Lange, this stage is thrilling. He claims that because all seedlings are descended from a single tree, “of course this move does not solve the fact that the species is severely bottlenecked,” which means it lacks the genetic diversity that could shield it over time from ailments and other influences. But since we are aware that the species is polyploid (has extra chromosomes), we can only hope that it has a high level of resistance.

De Lange notes that his coworkers have been active on the island. Near the original tree, Janeen Collings, a botanist with the Department of Conservation, planted many cuttings, some of which have flourished and, with her assistance, produced fruit. While the majority of the mature fruit was presumably eaten by birds, de Lange notes that part of the fruit was obtained and planted in the field. The seedlings developed, but sadly they perished after only a year. Her work is “amazing to say the least,” according to de Lange, despite the fact that the islands are practically unreachable, expensive to travel to, and you need to visit three to four times a year to accomplish this type of work.

The sole remaining Pennantia baylisiana tree in the wild Tony Silbery took the image. With permission used.

The author(s)’ opinions are their own, and they may not represent Scientific American’s.

What is the lifespan of a dragon tree?

slow-growing and successful The dragon tree, or Dracaena draco, is an elegant evergreen with massive limbs and rigid but flexible leaves. The thick, swelling, cylindrical trunk is sparsely branched and splits into strong, upright arms with terminal rosettes of sword-shaped, blue-green leaves that can grow up to 2 feet long (60 cm). The bark of this tree first appears smooth and gray before becoming scaly with horizontal red stripes, serving as a warning that when the bark is scraped or wounded, the tree spills crimson sap. This sap, which is compared to the blood of dragons (the Greek word for dragon is Dracaena), is used as a lacquer for violins and other fine wood. On established plants, panicles of greenish-white flowers start to bloom in the early summer. The orange berries come next. This highly ornamental tree doesn’t start branching until after its first bloom, which typically happens after a few decades of growth.

The dragon tree has a very long lifespan; some Canary Islands specimens are thought to be over a thousand years old. The Dragon Tree creates a striking focal point in the environment with its lovely umbrella form and palm-like look. Given that it can withstand storms, salt spray, and saline soils, it is an excellent choice for coastal settings.

  • Winner of the esteemed Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit
  • generally grows erect and reaches heights and widths of 15 to 25 feet (4.5-7.5 m). This succulent tree is frequently grown inside. But it will develop into a large and broad tree that can reach a height of 50 feet when planted in the ground in climates with little to no frost (15 m).
  • Simple to grow in full sun or partial shade on well-drained soil. Water sparingly and deeply, but avoid keeping the roots wet for long periods of time as this could be harmful. resistant to drought.
  • Great for Mediterranean gardens, gravel gardens, city gardens, succulent gardens, and beds and borders.
  • springtime seed propagation The stem’s leafless stubs will root in the summer.
  • Canary Islands, Cape Verde, Madeira, and western Morocco are their original home.

What size can a dragon tree grow to?

The dragon tree is no different from other Dracaena family members in that they are typically low-maintenance houseplants.

Although the dragon tree can thrive in a dark dungeon (see what I did there? ), its colors are at their finest when put close to a window that receives plenty of sunlight. In all seriousness, however, dragon tree is fairly tolerant of low-light situations, even during an Edmonton winter with little sunlight. Yours should function as long as there is some natural light nearby.

Despite not being particularly finicky about soil types, dragon trees love to thrive. Your dragon tree has a 6-foot maximum height if left unchecked. All power to you if that’s what you want. If not, you might want to trim the top growth a few times annually to keep the plant’s height under control.

Repotting is most likely the labor-intensive task your dragon tree will require of you because of its aggressive growing patterns. Throughout the year, the robust root system will gladly slither through the drainage holes in your pots. Repot your dragon tree in the spring into a bigger container that can accommodate the size of its root ball.

Despite the fact that dragon trees don’t truly breathe fire (much to my dismay as a fan of Game of Thrones), they nonetheless detest being wet. Water it thoroughly so that its extensive root system may receive a sufficient supply of water. After then, don’t water again until the top inch or two of soil has dried up. Overwatering your dragon tree will cause more harm than anything else you can do to it, therefore it is wiser to gently underwater it.

And lastly, this dragon enjoys dressing well. Give it a gentle bath in the tub a few times a year to get the dust off its leaves. Give the leaves a wipe with a damp cloth if it’s too huge to drag to the bathroom. This will ensure that dust does not impede its ability to synthesize the little amount of light it receives while also keeping it appearing clean.

Do dragon trees have flowers?

While slaying that fabled dragon may have been a Herculean effort, it appears that the same amount of work is required for a dragon tree to mature. The slow-growing dragon tree takes about 8 to 10 years to reach just 2 to 3 feet (0.5 to 1 meter) of height, and it takes the tree 30 years to reach maturity. Only the youngest branches at the extreme end of a dragon tree produce new leaves. To build spreading pedestals for its leafy crown, those bare limbs continue to gently expand.

The growth habitus known as dracoid habitus is present in dragon trees and other huge Dracaena species. Flowering and leaf growth occur in cycles of roughly ten years. The result is the unique umbrella-shaped crown of the dragon tree, which is made up of numerous clusters of two branches that develop in areas where flowering has taken place. There is no exact way to figure out how old a dragon tree is, although some gardeners can guess its age by observing its branching pattern (guessing around 10 years for every two branches).

Growing dracaena indoors

Dracaena, sometimes known as the corn plant, is one of the houseplants about which the NYBG Plant Information Service receives the most inquiries. The ease of maintenance, tall, palm tree-like growth habit, and variety of eye-catching leaf forms of this houseplant may account for its appeal. These plants, which are of African origin, have a striking architectural influence in the home. The vibrantly striped, variegated, or even blotched leaves can be quite striking.

Dracaena marginata’s spikey leaves, which are occasionally mistaken for cordyline plants, are more tolerant to regular indoor circumstances than other dracaenas. If the growth is not controlled through pruning, it can grow to be 6 feet or more tall inside. As the plant becomes older, the lowest leaves naturally fall off, giving the adult D. marginata a palm tree-like look with a thin, elegantly scarred stem.

Dracaena fragrans, which gets its name from its fragrant blossoms that are rarely grown inside, can reach heights of 4 to 5 feet and spread out to a width of 2 feet. Compared to D. marginata, it appears larger and has wider leaves.

Dragon tree, also known as dracaena draco, can grow enormously in the wild, although it rarely grows taller than 4 feet and 2 feet broad indoors. If kept in proper light, the leathery leaves are 18 inches long, blue-gray, and have tiny crimson borders. While the leaves of the Dracaena draco are still young, they arch downward as they get older.

Dracaena goldieana is a lovely low-growing variety, but due to its sensitivity to temperature changes and requirement for high humidity, it may be challenging to grow this plant indoors. It tops out at around 1 foot high by 1 foot broad and has an upright stem. The vivid leaves have silvery gray crossing streaks and glossy green leaves with a yellowish midrib.

Other species that can be collected are:

  • Dracaena hookerana is a sword-shaped plant with leathery, glossy leaves that can reach a length of 2 1/2 feet. The margins of the leaves are white or nearly translucent.
  • Dracaena sanderana is a slender, upright shrub with dark green leaves and broad white borders. It is also known as the ribbon plant or Belgian evergreen. The brittle leaves can reach nine inches in length and one inch in width. Its compact columnar form makes it a wonderful choice for a small location despite its potential height of three feet.
  • Gold-dust or spotted dracaena, Dracaena surculosa (syn. Dracaena godseffiana), are other names for this species. In contrast to its relatives, it has oval leaves and a shrubby appearance. There are cultivars of Dracaena surculosa such “Florida Beauty” and “Kelleri.” The spots on “Florida Beauty” are more numerous, occasionally to the point where they converge to form a solid, creamy white patch.


Give dracaena plants bright light every day, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight. The ideal lighting setup receives two to three hours of sunlight per day that is filtered using a transparent blind or curtain. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena marginata can withstand a little less light. Move your plant farther away from the light source if you notice any pale, dry patches on the leaves.

Water and humidity

When the plant is actively growing, water frequently and keep the soil evenly moist; discard any extra water that accumulates in the saucer. A lack of water may be indicated by brown stains on leaves.

Reduce water use throughout the winter, but keep the root ball moist. Plant death is frequently caused by receiving too much water in the winter.

The difficulty of maintaining enough humidity when growing dracaenas indoors is one of the most frequent issues. Healthy growth requires a lot of dampness. By setting the plants on pebble trays filled with water, moist air may be provided around the plants. To prevent damp feet and potential rot, place the plant in a saucer on top of rocks. regularly mist. Your environment can be too dry if you see brown leaf tips on your plant.


For dracaenas to thrive, it must be warm. Give a range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. (With one exception: Dracaena draco can withstand temperatures as low as 50 F.) Brown leaf tips and curling brown leaf margins might result from placing plants too close to windows or air conditioners, which causes cold drafts.


Due to their diminutive stature, Dracaena goldieana, D. sanderana, and D. surculosa do not require frequent repotting and can live their entire lives in a small pot. Every one to two years, in the spring, larger containers can be used to repot larger dracaenas until they reach a huge pot size. The ideal soil is made up of equal parts peat, soil, and vermiculite or sharp sand for drainage, though regular soil-based potting soil is also suitable.


When the plant is in its early growth cycle in the spring, it is the ideal time to accomplish your propagating (though late summer will work too). You can remove the crown in a 3 to 6 inch length when it is still new and largely green. Remove all leaves except a couple, then cover the bottom 2 inches with rooting hormone. Place in a 3-inch container filled with a slightly wet rooting mixture made up of equal parts peat moss and sand or perlite. Keep the cutting warm and put it in a plastic bag. (It would be excellent if you could provide soft heat from underneath with a propagating mat or tray.) It should be kept in partial shade for 4 to 6 weeks or until roots emerge, at which point you should remove it from the bag, move it away from the warm area, and water it lightly. After the surface has dried, you should water it once more. every two weeks, feed.

If they have a growth bud, it is also feasible to root some of the long stem, but these roots are less dependable. Don’t forget to insert cuttings with the correct end up, or the direction the stem initially grew.

Cutting back a too tall plant

A plant will eventually grow too tall and lanky for the area it is in or lose so many leaves that it needs to be chopped back. Trim the leftover canes to just above the nodes for the neatest appearance because new growth will develop on the old stem from the nodes. Instead of developing the root stock again, you can prefer to start over with the piece you cut off; in that case, follow the propagation procedures above.