The cultural requirements for dracaena plants are generally the same: bright or filtered sunlight, constant moisture at the roots, monthly feedings during the growing season (March through October), and sufficient humidity in the surroundings.
One of the most frequent causes of issues with dracaena is a lack of humidity. Low humidity is indicated by the browning of leaf tips, leaf loss, and yellowing of the leaf margins. Plant humidity can be increased by setting your plant on top of a dish containing small stones and water. (Avoid letting the water reach the plant pot’s base.) Mist your home with water every day, and in the driest months, think about using a humidifier.
The similar result can be obtained by being exposed to cold air (from an open window or an air conditioner). The chilly nights can be hurting your plant if it is situated next to a window.
Given how your plants look, it is less probable that watering frequency is a problem, but you will be able to tell for sure by closely analyzing the brown patches. Underwatering is characterized by brown stains and sharp edges on the leaves, leaf curl, and stem weakening. Given that your plant’s leaves look to be generally straight and strong, this seems like a less likely cause of the issue. You are overwatering if there are soft areas on the leaves or any rotting, wilting, or bleaching.
If your plant is being affected by overwatering, freezing, or insufficient light, a bacterial disease called leaf spot may also be present. To tell if you have leaf spot, look for wet or blistered spots on the leaves. If so, get rid of the damaged plant material, raise the temperature, add more light, improve ventilation, and cut back on watering.
Additionally, you should be aware that when dracaena leaves age, they turn yellow and drop off, so you will notice the bottom leaves deteriorating after a year or so.
Our Guide to Dracaena contains more details on how to care for this plant.
Should I remove the dracaena’s golden leaves?
Age is one pretty straightforward cause of leaves turning yellow and dropping off. Lower leaves naturally mature and fall off as a plant becomes higher and matures. Trim them off or remove them away if this occurs. At the top of the plant, fresh growth replaces the old leaves.
Why are the leaves on my Dracaena yellowing?
Inadequate soil moisture, particularly overwatering, is the most frequent cause of yellowing leaves in Dracaena plants. Keep in mind that your Dracaena prefers to be maintained damp—not wet or saturated—so maintaining a regular watering regimen is essential.
Make sure to water your Dracaena thoroughly enough for the water to drain into the saucer through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. It’s crucial to empty the saucer of any extra water and to avoid letting your plant stay in any standing water. Wet feet are not good for your plant since they will cause the roots to rot and eventually cause the plant to die. The first indication that root rot might be taking place are yellowing and browning leaves.
In order to properly and consistently care for a Dracaena plant, the soil must be adequately hydrated. Stress and yellowing of your plant can result from the soil changing from bone dry to wet due to improper watering timing. This plant is not resistant of drought.
The yellowing of your Dracaena’s leaves could possibly be a result of the quality of your water. The majority of tap water contains compounds that are toxic to dracaena plants. Use filtered water or let your tap water hang out overnight without cover before watering so that fluoride and chlorine can vaporize.
The edges of leaves begin to droop and brown in low humidity and dry soil, and then the entire leaf begins to yellow, brown, and shrivel. Regular misting, using a humidifier, or using a pebble tray will all increase the humidity in your Dracaena’s environment.
Dracaenas are more vulnerable to pest infestations when they are stressed or feeble. Spider mites and other sap-sucking insects can dehydrate your plant. Leaflets and fronds quickly start to yellow as a result of this issue. In an interior environment, scale, mealybugs, and spider mites are usually present. These tiny pests multiply and travel into nooks and crannies along frond portions if they are not eliminated at an early stage. The insects’ piercing jaws fatigue your plant and hasten yellowing, particularly if your Dracaena is already unwell due to inadequate lighting, nutrient inadequacy, or insufficient soil moisture. Find out how to deal with common indoor plant pests here.
Is new growth appearing on your dracaena? This yellowing is normal if your plant is experiencing new development and the yellowing leaves are older, especially near the base of the plant. Old leaves on your plant are shed, and new growth is energized.
How may Overwatered Dracena be saved?
Even though you’ve done everything in your power to maintain the health of your dracaena, it still seems exhausted and wilted.
Does it slump and droop rather than rising up? Do the leaves appear limp and soft, and you are unable to determine what is wrong?
There is such a thing as too much of a good thing when it comes to planting care. Overwatering is a regular issue with newly acquired dracaenas.
Your dracaena’s roots won’t be able to absorb oxygen, nutrition, and other crucial minerals if the soil is very damp.
A dracaena with much water will have soft brown leaves and a mushy trunk. Remove your overwatered dracaena and check for root rot if you want to salvage it. Remove any infected roots, spray on a fungicide, and then transplant in new potting soil if root rot is present. In desperate situations, the plant must be propagated in order to survive.
What does a Dracena look like when it is overwatered?
Dracena are low-maintenance indoor plants that are indigenous to Western Morocco, Southern Spain, Portugal, tropical Africa, and areas of Southern Spain. The marginata, which is native to Madagascar and can be identified by its thin (often variegated) and glossy leaves, is the kind that is most frequently found inside. They are highly forgiving of irregular and sparse watering, and even if you notice neglect (which you will if it’s suffering), it’s simple to restore it to its former splendor.
Dracena thrive in very bright, indirect light in a warm environment, while they can handle a drop in temperature and a reduction in light intensity throughout the winter. You will need to water more regularly the warmer and brighter the area. Just take care not to position your Dracena in direct sunlight or too close to a heat source or draft, since these conditions may cause the leaves to scorch and become brown. Simply take the damaged leaves off where they meet the trunk (this will promote new development) if you detect the leaves beginning to brown. Then, evaluate its environment and move it if necessary.
Dracena are mostly killed by overwatering; they can endure quite protracted periods of dryness and rather prefer that to being overwatered. The most noticeable symptoms of overwatering are soft, brown leaves or a trunk that appears soft. If you see this, let your dracaena completely dry out before cutting back on future watering. If you’re unsure, just stick your finger into the dirt and wait a bit longer if you feel any moisture. They prefer the top 2/3 inches of soil to dry up before being irrigated again.
Planting into a pot with enough of drainage and a freely flowing compost will help to keep Dracena at their best. Waterlogging will also harm your plant. Over the spring and summer, feeding it every few weeks will also help it maintain a lush and full head of foliage.
Marginata and fragrans demand slightly more humid environments, despite the fact that other Dracena cultivars are adapted to relatively dry air. To prevent the tips from turning brown, give them a regular misting, group them with other plants, or place them on a tray with water and pebbles.
Contrary to popular belief, Dracena don’t suffer when their lower leaves turn yellow or brown and fall off; in fact, this is a normal part of their life cycle and will occur frequently, promoting the development of new leaves from the top of the plant.
Moving the plant should correct this if you see your Dracena starting to become a little lanky and the trunk bending. This is likely due to insufficient light levels and the plant arching toward a brighter area.
To spread:
While you’ll need some secateurs to cut through the thick stem, draconises are quite simple to spread by cutting. For a higher success rate, it is advised to propagate in the spring and summer.
One stem should be split into portions that are each 15 to 30 cm long, keeping in mind which end of each cutting is the bottom.
Each cutting should have the bottom placed into a jar with water (you can add rooting hormone to hasten the process) and kept in a warm, well-lit area. You should see roots coming out of the nodes after a few weeks.
Keep the roots submerged in water until you notice tiny leaf swellings close to the stem’s upper end that resemble buds. Once this has occurred and the cutting has developed strong roots, pot it in a small container with drainage holes and compost that drains freely. Continue watering and feeding the cutting as needed.
When a few fresh cuttings have successfully taken root and are beginning to outgrow their original pot, you can combine them into one larger pot to produce a fuller-looking plant.
Can yellow leaves revert to green?
Yellow leaves are beautiful in the autumn on trees like gingko and quaking aspens. However, if you notice a large number of them on your fern, green-leafed pothos, or other indoor plants, it can be a concerning sight. However, it’s not always a terrible thing.
All year long, tropical plants maintain their leaves. But the life cycle of houseplant leaves exists (like all living things). Each leaf ages, gets yellow, and eventually dies. It’s not a problem if one or two leaves are yellow. However, if several leaves start to turn yellow, it’s time to intervene.
The most frequent causes of yellowing leaves are inconsistent watering (either too much or too little) or improper illumination (too much, too little). You must determine the cause of the issue in order to prevent other leaves from becoming yellow. Learn more about additional reasons why leaves could yellow.
Usually, when a leaf on a houseplant turns yellow, it is about to die. A leaf’s green tint is caused by chlorophyll. The plant abandons the leaf after it stops producing chlorophyll and starts utilizing any remaining nutrients in the leaf. Because of this, you usually can’t convert a leaf back to green once it turns yellow. (However, in instances of nutrient deficits, yellow leaf color occasionally becomes green again with therapy.)
There are numerous types of plants that naturally produce leaves with splashes and marks of yellow. Variegation is what we refer to as when this occurs in healthy plants. When plants are exposed to more light, variegation may appear brighter.
Conclusion: It’s not necessary to panic if a few leaves turn yellow. The yellow leaf is like a warning light, therefore you should pay attention to it. It might be a normal shedding process or it might be an indication that something is wrong.
How frequently should Dracaena be watered?
PRO TIP: If you’re unsure, let it rain! Overwatering is the most frequent error with these plants.
Always evaluate your plant’s watering requirements as soon as you get one. It is important to check the soil’s moisture content first to make sure it isn’t wet directly under the surface before giving your plant a drink. Additionally, think about aerating your plant’s soil before to the first watering. Aerating can help the soil breathe and enable rainwater to escape since we compact the soil to prevent it from shifting while being transported.
Dracaena trees prefer the soil to be moist but not fully dry between waterings. Usually, watering once every 10 to 14 days will keep the soil’s moisture content good and even. The soil should never be wet as this plant is susceptible to root rot; yet, if the earth becomes completely dry, the plant’s leaves will have brown tips. The Dracaena Lisa Cane will respond favorably to routine waterings after you establish a routine. The Dracaena also enjoys moisture, so a humidifier, pebble tray, or routine misting will be appreciated.
To maintain balanced growth on all sides, rotate your plant occasionally, and dust the leaves frequently to help the plant photosynthesize well. Take the chance to check the undersides of the leaves when dusting them and keep an eye out for bugs.
Keep in mind that every plant is a distinct living creature with different demands depending on where it is. You can have a long and fulfilling relationship with your dracaena lisa cane if you pay attention to its health and watering requirements.
Dracaenas require sunlight, right?
The smooth, gray stems of the Dracaena marginata eventually reach a height of 20 feet. Crowns of slender, leathery leaves up to 2 feet long and 1/2 inch wide form the ends of stems. Deep glossy green leaves with a reddish crimson border. Dracaena is a fantastic houseplant for rooms with low lighting, and it looks particularly good when planted in pairs to flank doorways.
Dracaena prefers bright, indirect light for growing; it may survive lower light levels, but development will be slowed. With typical indoor potting soil, typical house temperatures, and ordinary humidity levels, the plant thrives nicely. Maintain a wet but not soggy soil by fertilizing frequently with a complete fertilizer in the spring and summer (like a squeezed-out sponge). Reduce your watering frequency and discontinue fertilizing during the fall and winter. Regularly clean leaves with a wet cloth or relocate your plant so it can receive a moderate shower to keep Dracaena healthy and looking its best. Avoid using commercial leaf shine. Simply use a pair of scissors to remove any brown tips that appear on your plant, being careful to preserve the natural form of the trimmed leaves. Dracaena is rarely troubled by pests or diseases and can endure a pot-bound environment for extended periods of time.
How can a Dracaena plant be revived?
Give the soil a good soak, spritz the leaves to boost humidity, and place the dracaena’s pot away from any source of indoor heat that could cause the soil to dry out too rapidly in the range of 60F to 83F to revive a dracaena with drooping leaves caused by drought stress (15C to 28C).
- Every seven days, give dracaenas with drooping leaves a generous soak. Always give dracaenas a good watering so that any extra water drips out the bottom of the pot. By doing this, you can make sure that the soil is consistently moist, allowing the dracaena’s roots to get the moisture they need.
- Every day, mist the falling leaves. It is possible to mimic the humid conditions of the dracaena’s natural environment by misting the leaves. This aids in fending off the dry air that dehydrates dracaena leaves, causing them to droop.
- Avoid rapid temperature changes and keep the dracaena in a temperature range of 60F to 83F (15C and 28C). The temperature may quickly change and the leaves may droop due to drafty regions of the house caused by open doors or windows, air currents from forced air conditioning, indoor heating, or air conditioning.
- Find the dracaena in a place with more light (but avoid direct sunlight which can scorch the leaves). The dracaena should have enough energy and resources from bright, indirect sunlight to grow and rejuvenate its wilting leaves.
- Don’t overwater dracaenas, check that the soil drains adequately, and make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom. A dracaena typically benefits from weekly watering, however this should be done in conjunction with the proper drainage setup.
- After watering, remove any extra water from saucers, trays, and decorative outer pots to ensure strong roots. After a week, if the potting soil still feels damp, I advise replacing it or supplementing it with a mixture of 2/3 potting soil and 1/3 horticultural grit or orchid potting mix to improve the soil’s structure and drainage. The conditions for root rot are encouraged if the soil is still wet or saturated one week after watering (instead of equally moist) (which causes the leaves to droop, turn yellow and drop off).
A dracaena with drooping leaves typically recovers within a few days of the conditions being changed for the better, especially if the cause of the drooping leaves is dry soil and drought stress.
Key Takeaways:
- Overwatering and inadequate drainage are frequently to blame for dracaenas that die. Dracaena plants like well-drained soil and cannot endure constantly wet or bog conditions. Due to root rot, dracaena leaves will turn yellow and appear to be dying if the soil is too wet.
- Due to excessive exposure to direct sunlight, dry soil, and low humidity, dracaena leaves turn brown. Tropical plants like dracaena prefer to flourish in direct, bright sunshine with weekly watering and frequent sprinkling to improve humidity. The leaves droop and get brown if the soil entirely dries out.
- Low humidity caused by air conditioning or indoor heating causes the browning of dracaena leaf tips. Tropical plants like dracaena demand regular spraying to maintain a humidity level of about 40%. Fluoride in tap water makes dracaenas extremely sensitive, and it also makes their leaf tips dark.
- Dry soil, low humidity, and high temperatures are frequently to blame for dracaena leaves drooping. Once a week, give dracaenas a good bath to ensure that the soil is evenly hydrated. Low humidity robs the leaves of moisture, while high temperatures can dry out the soil too soon, causing the leaves to droop.
- A dying dracaena can be brought back to life by simulating the conditions of its natural habitat, which includes spraying it frequently to increase humidity, watering it once a week, and placing it in a location with strong indirect light. Any brown leaves should be cut down to encourage fresh development. To prevent root rot from causing the leaves to turn yellow and droop down, make sure there is excellent drainage.