What Size Pot For Dracaena

The soil should typically have a blend of loam, peat, and vermiculite or perlite. Peat lowers the pH level while loam offers nourishment to the soil mixture. Vermiculite or perlite improves drainage. This dirt was made especially for potting. The soil should have a rough, open texture to allow water to permeate it. Ingredients that keep moisture in the soil longer should not be present because they tend to make the soil overly dense and retain moisture for too long. You can also skip the fertilizer since most houseplants, especially dracaenas, don’t need much of it. Simply choose cactus soil if you’re seeking for the ideal packed dirt for your Dracaena. It can be used with perlite and has superior drainage over ordinary soil. This makes a remarkable difference in drainage. Mix soil and perlite in a 3:1 or 2:1 ratio for the desired effects.

If your Dracaena plant has been in its pot for a time and is becoming bigger, you should repot it. However, it wouldn’t be a good idea to repotte it if you just recently bought it and think the moment is right.

The idea that new plants require repotting because they are not in “excellent soil” is untrue. To ensure the greatest growth, growers utilize top-notch potting mixes and use enough fertilizer. As a result, they won’t need any more fertilizer for at least six months.

Dracaenas have tiny roots and are extremely delicate plants. They dislike repotting. Repotting is therefore not advised until it is absolutely required.

Additionally, replacing old potting mixtures that have lost nutrients is another option when repotting; it is not always necessary to increase the size of the pot. Over time, your plant will outgrow its present container and need a larger one. Then, to assist its growth, you might need to repot it.

Plants are frequently described in terms of their size or in inches. This refers to the size of the pot the plant is in, not the plant itself. For instance, a 4-inch potted plant is referred to as a 4-plant. Whatever the plant’s size, it will expand into a pot that is 4 inches tall and 4 inches broad.

If you’re unsure of how to determine the proper pot size, think about the size of the existing pot. You should select a pot that is at least 1-2 inches larger if the plant’s present pot is 10 inches or less. However, if the existing pot has a diameter greater than ten inches, choose a pot whose diameter is two to three inches larger.

Yes. You should definitely select planters and pots with drainage. This is crucial if your watering technique isn’t flawless. With considerable skill, it is feasible to build pots without drainage function, though. Never more than a third of the container should be filled with water. You can layer the bottom with lava rocks or other similar materials to allow extra water to drain. By doing these steps, root rot is less likely to occur.

The pot you choose for your Dracaena plant and the soil you use to grow it both have a significant impact on its general health. Drainage is one other component that is equally significant. Keep in mind that it can only develop uninhibited when you give it the best conditions to do so.

Dracaena in pots

Dracaena needs a healthy soil mixture, which can be improved by adding 1/3 compost, if you have any.

Pour clay pebbles or small stones into the container to create a layer at the bottom that will improve drainage.

By doing this, you can prevent the roots from drowning in water, which could be fatal.

  • Set up your dracaena in a sizable container with specialized soil for indoor plants or green plants.
  • Even though it could need to be replanted in the spring every two or three years, when this is not necessary, topdressing on a regular basis should be sufficient to meet the plant’s needs for its growth medium.
  • Because to their slow growth, several species, including Goldieana, Sanderiana, and Surculosa, don’t require repotting.

Dracaena outdoors

Feel free to lay down a bed of gravel, small stones, or clay pebbles to help the water drain more effectively, just as is done for plants in pots.

In general, dracaena cannot tolerate the cold and will only thrive outside in areas with a warm climate and constant temperatures over 63 to 65F. (17 to 18C).

Dracena draco, the hardiest type, can survive in temperatures as low as 34 or 35F. (1 to 2C).

In how many pots do dracaena grow?

Let’s look at some potential potted dracaena combinations now that you are aware of their requirements. Garden centers and florists frequently follow the formula “thriller, filler, spiller” when assembling mixed containers. This means that there will be a “thriller” plant, like a dracaena, that is tall and acts as the focal point, some low-growing “filler plants, and a “spiller” plant, which adds interest by spilling over the edge of the container.

Try accenting dracaena, which is a medium-light plant, with low- to medium-blooming annuals like some vibrant impatiens, followed by a purple sweet potato vine. You can also use perennials like coral bells, some creeping jenny, and perhaps a few petunias.

The size of the container determines how many companion plants are required. If they haven’t reached their full size yet, make sure to give them some room to expand. Three plants to a container is a basic rule of thumb, but if your container is large, ignore the rules and fill it up. As you expand from the center of the container, keep your “thriller, the dracaena,” there.

Choose plants with various colors and textures, some that bloom and some that don’t, as well as perennials and annuals to offer variety and interest. Actually, your alternatives are only limited by your creativity as long as you bear in mind the dracaena’s expanding requirements (moderate, indirect light, moderate water, and little feeding) and accommodate these to your companion choices.

When should a tiny dracaena be repotted?

Planting a new Dracaena Repotting should ideally be done in the spring when the plant is actively growing. Use a pot that is one size larger than the one the dracaena is currently growing in before repotting, and make sure it has bottom drain holes to avoid rot issues.

Do dracaena plants enjoy being confined by their roots?

It won’t mind being somewhat root-bound and will function properly. It will stop developing if its roots become too confined.

Mine had highly knotted, compact roots at the base. The grow pot and plant were not in balance. It has grown a few inches since this repotting adventure and is as content as a clam in its new pot (I’m writing this three months after filming the video).


If you’re unsure of how much water to give this plant, err on the side of caution because you don’t want to overwater it.

Allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out in between waterings is a reasonable rule of thumb. You’re probably overwatering it if the leaves begin to droop.

One additional thing: if your local municipal water contains fluoride, let it sit overnight before watering your plants or use distilled water because these plants don’t like fluoride. Your dracaena can be suffering from fluoride toxicity if you see brown leaves or dead regions.


Although these plants are quite tolerant, they don’t appreciate temperatures below 60 °F. You should be alright if you keep it away from drafty windows and air conditioner vents.


During the growing season, use a reliable 10-10-10 fertilizer and apply it every two weeks (spring and fall).

Or, as I do, you may just add Indoor Plant Food each time you water. With the exception of the succulents, I can use it on all of my plants, which is why I enjoy it because I don’t have to keep track of a fertilization schedule. This makes plant care simple and removes all the guesswork from fertilizing!

Pretty easy! If you already take care of succulents or a snake plant and want to expand your collection of low-maintenance plants, this is a fantastic next step.

How can I thicken my dracaena?

How Do You Handle a Weak Dracaena?

  • A dracaena’s top can be removed, and it can be rooted. Continue to water the bottom, and new growth will appear there as well.
  • Give your dracaena a quarter turn every so often to maintain the stems neatly erect.
  • This dracaena marginata is getting enough light, as seen by its thick stems and large leaves.

What is the lifespan of dracaena plants?

  • The Dracaena Marginata is one of the most well-liked houseplants since it requires very little maintenance and its tropical appearance fits in well with contemporary settings.
  • It can survive for up to ten years in a pot with adequate care and has an even longer life expectancy outside.
  • Greek term dracaena has been romanized as dracaena. In general, it means a she-dragon. Its name is derived from the enormous size of a wild Dragon Tree.
  • Diseases are not a problem for the Madagascar Dragon Tree, however scale, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites can occasionally be an issue. It is advisable to regularly inspect the plant and spot pests before they do damage.
  • The ability of this plant to filter the air is excellent. It not only combats indoor pollution, but it also offers excellent allergy protection. For filtering benzene, lead, carbon dioxide, cigarette smoke, and various VOCs, it is especially helpful.
  • The plant’s leaves are loaded in antioxidants, and traditional medicine occasionally uses them to treat headaches and eye soreness.
  • Although this plant is not poisonous to people, it can be extremely harmful to animals, especially cats and dogs. When pets nibble on the leaves, the poisonous alkyds they contain can make them sick. Vomiting and excessive salivation are examples of poisoning symptoms.

When is it time to repot?

When will your plant be ready for a new pot? It’s time for a new pot if it has been in the same container for a number of years (or at least a root checkup). Typical indications that a plant requires extra space or more soil nutrients include:

  • a discernible decline in the level or quality of the soil (soil level has dropped over time or appears dry and hardened)
  • Roots that are clearly protruding from the pot’s bottom, top borders, or pot itself
  • Plant dries out erratically quickly and requires more water than it once did (or water runs right through pot, not seeming to saturate the soil)
  • The plant lacks any surface space for fresh development and is either plainly top heavy or excessively large for its pot.

The majority of plants will require repotting once a year, while certain slow-growing plants may only only a topdressing (adding a few inches of new soil on top of the old) to survive. Repotting should be done in the spring. As they come out of their winter slumber, plants are ravenous for new nutrients and more space to flourish. Additionally, the weather is warm and sunny, so the soil will dry out quickly in between waterings (which is important after repotting to avoid root rot).

If spring is not an option, summer is still a wonderful season to repot your indoor plants. Just be sure to avoid extremely hot and dry days when plants may already be under stress and find it difficult to acclimatize. Because your plants are dormant (or about to go dormant), which essentially means that they are hibernating and would like not to be disturbed, in the fall and winter, these seasons are less optimal. Even the moisture in new soil over the winter can be too much for some plants, leading to root rot.

It’s a frequent misperception that repotting a stressed plant would give it a boost. This is true in some circumstances, such as acute overwatering, specific pests and fungal problems, or if the plant is genuinely potbound (needing new soil and a bigger pot), but in many cases, repotting a stressed plant will just make it more stressed. Repotting is a significant alteration for a plant and its delicate root system, hence it should only be carried out in extreme cases.

Won’t a larger pot help your plant grow big and strong?

The size of the new container in comparison to the previous is a crucial factor to take into account when figuring out how to choose the best pot for your houseplant.

A widespread misconception holds that plants will enlarge if placed in a larger container, much like a goldfish in a fishbowl. This makes sense, yet most houseplants really prefer a tighter fit. When given room, roots don’t instantly take up all available area; instead, they expand when and where they like, usually very slowly. The roots sink when you repot them into a much larger container because they are encircled by soil and unable to draw water from it quickly enough. Less soil dries up quicker and lets more oxygen reach the roots, which is what they require to survive.

You should only size up a few inches at a time due to these reasons. Most pots fit loosely within the horticultural industry’s system, which uses the numbers 2 inches, 4 inches, 6 inches, and up. The majority of pots are categorized into these groups, albeit these measurements may or may not be perfect.

This implies that if your pot is about 6 inches wide, you should probably size it up to an 8 inch pot. When looking for pottery, it can be a good idea to carry a measuring tape and be aware of the dimensions of your existing pots. Many employees at nurseries and garden centers are quite experienced and willing to provide repotting guidance if you need assistance narrowing down your options.

Drainage Demystified

Some pots have bottom holes, while others don’t. These nuances may seem overly technical when you’re eager to get your plant into a useful and attractive container, but it is in the best interest of any indoor gardener to understand how drainage functions and how this may influence their preferences for pottery.

Simply said, for plant health, a pot with drainage (holes) is nearly always preferable to a pot without (no holes). That’s not to suggest you can’t choose a pot without drainage, but if you’re a beginner who is having trouble deciding on the best pot, drainage holes will undoubtedly make your maintenance routine simpler.

Burlap or cheesecloth covering a drainage hole allows for soil retention without obstructing drainage.

A pot with drainage allows excess water to escape out the bottom rather than collecting in the bottom, where it could quickly result in fungus growth or root rot. These containers, which we prefer to refer to as cachepots because they lack drainage, are best used decoratively by encasing a plastic nursery container with drainage within. Use Spanish or sphagnum moss to hide any gaps or edges if the appearance of plastic bothers you. If you wish to protect the interior of your pot or basket, most nurseries provide plastic liners.

Why do so many of the pots lack drainage? For starters, it was a common misconception among gardeners that adding pebbles or clay shards to the bottom of a pot provided drainage that was just as effective. Numerous institutions, including Washington State University and Fine Gardening, have since refuted this, although the notion still exists.

Having said that, some individuals have a strong preference for a pot without drainage and possess a natural ability to determine when and how much water to apply. You do you. Taking care of plants is a very individualized activity that eventually aims to cultivate happiness in our lives. Some plants are better prospects than others if you wish to pot them immediately into a cachepot. Cacti, succulents, and some semi-succulent tropical plants, such Sansevierias (snake plants), make suitable options because they require little water, lowering the chance that you’ll overwater them accidentally.

Here at Pistils, we line the bottom with little activated charcoal chips when we pot directly into a container without drainage. Unlike pebbles, charcoal actually absorbs moisture like a sponge, and because it is anti-bacterial, it filters pollutants and inhibits the formation of fungi.

What about soil?

A larger pot is only one aspect of repotting. When you repot, you shouldn’t just transfer the old soil because it’s also about rejuvenating the soil. Never use soil that has been harvested outside. Rich, fluffy potting soil is very different from the run-down material in your backyard. To prevent attracting insects, use a sterilized, bagged mixture that is kept tightly wrapped and kept in a cool, dry location.

Different plants’ preferences for potting mixes should be taken into account while repotting them. Carnivorous plants and African violets are two examples of plants that require specific mixtures to grow. To replicate the conditions found in their native desert habitat, cacti and succulents need a specific mix that drains quickly. We make our own cactus soil by generously incorporating pumice (a volcanic rock that resembles popcorn) into potting soil to produce a loose, permeable mixture that dries rapidly.

Epiphytic plants like orchids (as well as staghorn ferns, jungle cacti, philodendrons, and countless other common houseplants) would typically grow in the moss and leaf litter of tree branches in the rainforest, being dampened and drying out again in quick succession. As a result, they typically prefer a mixture that can absorb some moisture but still has plenty of room for air.

Mixtures of cacti and orchids are widely available in nurseries and garden centers (and easy to mix yourself). Most epiphytic plants can be started using one part orchid mix and two parts potting soil, however it can be enjoyable to experiment and monitor your plants to develop your own formulas.

Moisture Retention

You should also take into account the pot’s material when deciding how to care for plants because it has a bigger impact than you might realize.

Purchasing unglazed terra cotta pots can be a smart move if you have a habit of overwatering plants. Unglazed clay dries out much more quickly than plastic or glazed clay because it wicks moisture out of the soil. Since these materials are not permeable, the soil will retain moisture for a significantly longer period of time. Additionally, you can think about adding a little extra pumice to each planting.

Remember that adding pumice, orchid mix, or utilizing terra clay can make your plants dry up more quickly and necessitate more frequent watering if you’re more likely to forget to water your plants. A moisture meter is a useful instrument that can assist you in determining when to water your plants if you are unsure of where you lie on the spectrum.

Rolling Up Your Sleeves

People from all across the world have engaged in the filthy, sentimental ritual of repotting each spring for generations. Treat it like such by deciding to reflect on it on a day when you can take your time, pay attention to your senses, and have fun. This is best if you have access to an outdoor area. If it’s a communal environment, keep in mind that, despite being organic, soil and leaf litter might take a very long time to disintegrate. Spread a tarp or newspaper on your floor so you may have some space and can quickly sweep it up afterwards if you don’t have access to an outdoor area (and you will need todirt has a way of getting everywhere).

Gloves are optional but recommended because many soil mixtures contain woody material that might irritate your hands with minute splinters. It’s time to get started now that you know how to pick the ideal container, so grab your plants, ceramics, and soil.