Depending on the cultivar being grown in the garden, dracaena’s tolerance to cold varies substantially (most are zones 9 and above). While some types cannot resist frost or freezing temperatures, others may thrive in milder USDA growing zones like zone 7-8.
Those who grow dracaena indoors won’t need to make any particular preparations for the winter, but those who have outside plantings will need to take the required precautions to ensure that the plant survives the impending cooler weather. The best course of action is to dig up the plants and bring them indoors. Growers who live on the periphery of the plants’ cold hardiness zone may be able to successfully overwinter the plants by providing a thorough mulching in the fall.
When the weather starts to chill down in the fall, carefully dig around the dracaena plants. Transplant the dracaena into a sizable container while keeping the root ball whole. Bring the container indoors, and put it in a warm spot that gets some diffused light. The plant will only sometimes need watering during the winter as the soil gets dry. When all chances of frost have passed, replant in the garden the next season.
The gardener has one more choice if the plants have gotten too big to transplant into pots or are too heavy to move. Gardeners can take stem cuttings from dracaena plants because they can be multiplied quickly. Fresh dracaena plants can be readily brought indoors and overwintered until warm weather has arrived by rooting stem cuttings in a new container.
Aside from being convenient, collecting stem cuttings will enable the gardener to easily and affordably increase the quantity of plants that need to be sown into the garden the next growing season.
Will my dracaena survive the winter outdoors?
The reason dracaena types are among the most well-liked indoor plants is that they have magnificent leaves, available in a wide range of sizes and colors, and are hard to kill. Planting your dracaena outside in an unsuitable climate is one surefire method to kill it. A tropical plant that cannot withstand frost is the dracaena.
However, if you reside in zone 9, 10, or 11, go for it. When there is no frost, dracaena grows well outside. In the winter, Zone 9 can be a little dangerous. If you live somewhere that occasionally experiences frost, be ready to cover your outdoor dracaena plants.
Does Dracaena return annually?
The stunning plant known as spike, or Dracaena indivisa “spikes,” has leaves in the shape of swords. Gloves must be worn when handling the leaves because of their sharp edges. The foliage of the evergreen spike plant, not its flowers, is what makes it useful. This plant requires very little upkeep.
Spike can withstand heat. If planted in a mixed border, it can add vertical interest. Spike is a perennial, but if winters are harsh, it won’t grow back. If you plant it in a zone below 7a, you should treat it as an annual or bring it indoors for the winter.
Growing dracaena indoors
Dracaena, sometimes known as the corn plant, is one of the houseplants about which the NYBG Plant Information Service receives the most inquiries. The ease of maintenance, tall, palm tree-like growth habit, and variety of eye-catching leaf forms of this houseplant may account for its appeal. These plants, which are of African origin, have a striking architectural influence in the home. The vibrantly striped, variegated, or even blotched leaves can be quite striking.
Dracaena marginata’s spikey leaves, which are occasionally mistaken for cordyline plants, are more tolerant to regular indoor circumstances than other dracaenas. If the growth is not controlled through pruning, it can grow to be 6 feet or more tall inside. As the plant becomes older, the lowest leaves naturally fall off, giving the adult D. marginata a palm tree-like look with a thin, elegantly scarred stem.
Dracaena fragrans, which gets its name from its fragrant blossoms that are rarely grown inside, can reach heights of 4 to 5 feet and spread out to a width of 2 feet. Compared to D. marginata, it appears larger and has wider leaves.
Dragon tree, also known as dracaena draco, can grow enormously in the wild, although it rarely grows taller than 4 feet and 2 feet broad indoors. If kept in proper light, the leathery leaves are 18 inches long, blue-gray, and have tiny crimson borders. While the leaves of the Dracaena draco are still young, they arch downward as they get older.
Dracaena goldieana is a lovely low-growing variety, but due to its sensitivity to temperature changes and requirement for high humidity, it may be challenging to grow this plant indoors. It tops out at around 1 foot high by 1 foot broad and has an upright stem. The vivid leaves have silvery gray crossing streaks and glossy green leaves with a yellowish midrib.
Other species that can be collected are:
- Dracaena hookerana is a sword-shaped plant with leathery, glossy leaves that can reach a length of 2 1/2 feet. The margins of the leaves are white or nearly translucent.
- Dracaena sanderana is a slender, upright shrub with dark green leaves and broad white borders. It is also known as the ribbon plant or Belgian evergreen. The brittle leaves can reach nine inches in length and one inch in width. Its compact columnar form makes it a wonderful choice for a small location despite its potential height of three feet.
- Gold-dust or spotted dracaena, Dracaena surculosa (syn. Dracaena godseffiana), are other names for this species. In contrast to its relatives, it has oval leaves and a shrubby appearance. There are cultivars of Dracaena surculosa such “Florida Beauty” and “Kelleri.” The spots on “Florida Beauty” are more numerous, occasionally to the point where they converge to form a solid, creamy white patch.
Light
Give dracaena plants bright light every day, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight. The ideal lighting setup receives two to three hours of sunlight per day that is filtered using a transparent blind or curtain. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena marginata can withstand a little less light. Move your plant farther away from the light source if you notice any pale, dry patches on the leaves.
Water and humidity
When the plant is actively growing, water frequently and keep the soil evenly moist; discard any extra water that accumulates in the saucer. A lack of water may be indicated by brown stains on leaves.
Reduce water use throughout the winter, but keep the root ball moist. Plant death is frequently caused by receiving too much water in the winter.
The difficulty of maintaining enough humidity when growing dracaenas indoors is one of the most frequent issues. Healthy growth requires a lot of dampness. By setting the plants on pebble trays filled with water, moist air may be provided around the plants. To prevent damp feet and potential rot, place the plant in a saucer on top of rocks. regularly mist. Your environment can be too dry if you see brown leaf tips on your plant.
Temperature
For dracaenas to thrive, it must be warm. Give a range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. (With one exception: Dracaena draco can withstand temperatures as low as 50 F.) Brown leaf tips and curling brown leaf margins might result from placing plants too close to windows or air conditioners, which causes cold drafts.
Repotting
Due to their diminutive stature, Dracaena goldieana, D. sanderana, and D. surculosa do not require frequent repotting and can live their entire lives in a small pot. Every one to two years, in the spring, larger containers can be used to repot larger dracaenas until they reach a huge pot size. The ideal soil is made up of equal parts peat, soil, and vermiculite or sharp sand for drainage, though regular soil-based potting soil is also suitable.
Propagation
When the plant is in its early growth cycle in the spring, it is the ideal time to accomplish your propagating (though late summer will work too). You can remove the crown in a 3 to 6 inch length when it is still new and largely green. Remove all leaves except a couple, then cover the bottom 2 inches with rooting hormone. Place in a 3-inch container filled with a slightly wet rooting mixture made up of equal parts peat moss and sand or perlite. Keep the cutting warm and put it in a plastic bag. (It would be excellent if you could provide soft heat from underneath with a propagating mat or tray.) It should be kept in partial shade for 4 to 6 weeks or until roots emerge, at which point you should remove it from the bag, move it away from the warm area, and water it lightly. After the surface has dried, you should water it once more. every two weeks, feed.
If they have a growth bud, it is also feasible to root some of the long stem, but these roots are less dependable. Don’t forget to insert cuttings with the correct end up, or the direction the stem initially grew.
Cutting back a too tall plant
A plant will eventually grow too tall and lanky for the area it is in or lose so many leaves that it needs to be chopped back. Trim the leftover canes to just above the nodes for the neatest appearance because new growth will develop on the old stem from the nodes. Instead of developing the root stock again, you can prefer to start over with the piece you cut off; in that case, follow the propagation procedures above.
Can dracaena be kept inside?
Indoors, grow dracaena in direct light that is bright. However, if you transfer plants to more sunny spots, you’ll see enhanced growth. The majority of types can survive pretty low light levels. However, avoid placing them directly in the path of the sun as this could cause the leaves to burn. Although dracaena plants are ideally adapted to indoor and outdoor environments, they occasionally experience humidity issues. Place pots on trays with pebbles and water or mist leaves with water every few days if you know your home is particularly dry or if leaf tips start to turn brown. (To prevent the plant from absorbing too much water, make sure the water level is below the bottom edge of the pot.) The humidity in the area will rise when the water evaporation occurs.
Will Dracaena reappear following a freeze?
Recently, we’ve been asked numerous inquiries about what to deal with indoor plants that were left outside in the cold. These are the questions that are asked!
When I neglected to bring the plant inside, our Ficus tree, also known as the Dragon Tree Dracaena, became quite chilly.
Is the Ficus tree dead because its leaves have turned brown and it is currently losing a lot of foliage? Can you preserve the houseplant?
The reason why plants lose their leaves can range from seasonal changes to protection to outright death.
Depending on how long the plant was exposed to the extremely low temperature or cold frost, indoor plants like a Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily plant) may get some scorched leaves. It might regrow. It could simply take some time.
The leaves of plants can seem particularly dark and discolored when they are subjected to subfreezing conditions.
Additionally, it might have blackened tips, like with Dracaena massangeana, or greasy leaves, as with Aglaonemas.
As opposed to ice flowers and tundra trees, which can quickly gather nourishment and bloom once summer arrives, your houseplants can require a prolonged period of plant rescue.
Only lichen, moss, and a few low shrub species can thrive under permafrost since no vegetation can penetrate the frozen soil surface.
Think about how your skin starts to peel after getting a sunburn because the cells have been destroyed. The leaves of frozen plants fall off (frozen leaves).
What do you do when a plant loses all of its leaves and the branches, canes, or tips don’t look too good?
- Be practical first. Does the plant that suffered frost damage appear to be beyond saving?
- Second, it might be time to remove the clippers or completely remove the plant from the frozen ground if you think you want to give it a chance or a re-grow.
Check The Bark
Check the Ficus tree’s bark to see whether it is dark, withered, or detached from the trunk. (Help won’t likely be able to fix it) Don’t simply focus on the top; also consider the bottom.
Scrap The Bark
Scrape the bark next, starting high. If you happen to come across some brown, keep going lower until you discover green; trust me, you’ll know it when you do.
Cut off everything above a green region you locate on a stem or branch. You might have a plant that has a chance of regrowing after you finish reading this.
Keep in mind that the roots were also susceptible to the cold, in addition to the foliage, branches, and stems. Despite your best efforts, the plant might not live. It’s possible that the root damage is so bad that you’ll have an uphill struggle.
NO FERTILIZER
Don’t start watering and fertilizing the plant after you’ve done all this surgery. Keep up normal plant maintenance, excluding watering and fertilizing. Most likely, you’ll need to decrease the amount and frequency of watering.
I’m aware that a lot of people can grow sentimental about their plants and want to do all in their power to get them back.
Even under ideal growing conditions, most indoor house plants will be exceedingly difficult to recover to their former stature after exposure to extremely cold temperatures.
The amount of work you’ll put into caring for and replacing a new plant instead of trying to save plants that were severely damaged by the cold, in my opinion, would be more beneficial. Though take note of this lesson. Keep indoor plants all year round.