The stunning plant known as spike, or Dracaena indivisa “spikes,” has leaves in the shape of swords. Gloves must be worn when handling the leaves because of their sharp edges. The foliage of the evergreen spike plant, not its flowers, is what makes it useful. This plant requires very little upkeep.
Spike can withstand heat. If planted in a mixed border, it can add vertical interest. Spike is a perennial, but if winters are harsh, it won’t grow back. If you plant it in a zone below 7a, you should treat it as an annual or bring it indoors for the winter.
Dracena are either annual or perennial.
Popular indoor plants like dracaena are prized for their capacity to enhance living areas with little maintenance or care from the home gardener. Different varieties of dracaena are frequently seen at nurseries and garden centers in addition to being used as indoor plants. Even individuals who live outside the plant’s growing zone can enjoy the plant for many more growing seasons even though many people choose to grow it outside as an annual. Continue reading to discover more about winterizing dracaenas.
How are dracaena spikes prepared for winter?
Moving dracaena spikes indoors is the most effective technique to overwinter them in colder climates, according to Wallish Greenhouses. You simply need distilled water and a watering can for this task if the dracaena spikes are in planters. You will also need a garden trowel, some dirt, and pots or containers big enough to hold the plants if they are in the ground.
Growing dracaena indoors
Dracaena, sometimes known as the corn plant, is one of the houseplants about which the NYBG Plant Information Service receives the most inquiries. The ease of maintenance, tall, palm tree-like growth habit, and variety of eye-catching leaf forms of this houseplant may account for its appeal. These plants, which are of African origin, have a striking architectural influence in the home. The vibrantly striped, variegated, or even blotched leaves can be quite striking.
Dracaena marginata’s spikey leaves, which are occasionally mistaken for cordyline plants, are more tolerant to regular indoor circumstances than other dracaenas. If the growth is not controlled through pruning, it can grow to be 6 feet or more tall inside. As the plant becomes older, the lowest leaves naturally fall off, giving the adult D. marginata a palm tree-like look with a thin, elegantly scarred stem.
Dracaena fragrans, which gets its name from its fragrant blossoms that are rarely grown inside, can reach heights of 4 to 5 feet and spread out to a width of 2 feet. Compared to D. marginata, it appears larger and has wider leaves.
Dragon tree, also known as dracaena draco, can grow enormously in the wild, although it rarely grows taller than 4 feet and 2 feet broad indoors. If kept in proper light, the leathery leaves are 18 inches long, blue-gray, and have tiny crimson borders. While the leaves of the Dracaena draco are still young, they arch downward as they get older.
Dracaena goldieana is a lovely low-growing variety, but due to its sensitivity to temperature changes and requirement for high humidity, it may be challenging to grow this plant indoors. It tops out at around 1 foot high by 1 foot broad and has an upright stem. The vivid leaves have silvery gray crossing streaks and glossy green leaves with a yellowish midrib.
Other species that can be collected are:
- Dracaena hookerana is a sword-shaped plant with leathery, glossy leaves that can reach a length of 2 1/2 feet. The margins of the leaves are white or nearly translucent.
- Dracaena sanderana is a slender, upright shrub with dark green leaves and broad white borders. It is also known as the ribbon plant or Belgian evergreen. The brittle leaves can reach nine inches in length and one inch in width. Its compact columnar form makes it a wonderful choice for a small location despite its potential height of three feet.
- Gold-dust or spotted dracaena, Dracaena surculosa (syn. Dracaena godseffiana), are other names for this species. In contrast to its relatives, it has oval leaves and a shrubby appearance. There are cultivars of Dracaena surculosa such “Florida Beauty” and “Kelleri.” The spots on “Florida Beauty” are more numerous, occasionally to the point where they converge to form a solid, creamy white patch.
Light
Give dracaena plants bright light every day, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight. The ideal lighting setup receives two to three hours of sunlight per day that is filtered using a transparent blind or curtain. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena marginata can withstand a little less light. Move your plant farther away from the light source if you notice any pale, dry patches on the leaves.
Water and humidity
When the plant is actively growing, water frequently and keep the soil evenly moist; discard any extra water that accumulates in the saucer. A lack of water may be indicated by brown stains on leaves.
Reduce water use throughout the winter, but keep the root ball moist. Plant death is frequently caused by receiving too much water in the winter.
The difficulty of maintaining enough humidity when growing dracaenas indoors is one of the most frequent issues. Healthy growth requires a lot of dampness. By setting the plants on pebble trays filled with water, moist air may be provided around the plants. To prevent damp feet and potential rot, place the plant in a saucer on top of rocks. regularly mist. Your environment can be too dry if you see brown leaf tips on your plant.
Temperature
For dracaenas to thrive, it must be warm. Give a range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. (With one exception: Dracaena draco can withstand temperatures as low as 50 F.) Brown leaf tips and curling brown leaf margins might result from placing plants too close to windows or air conditioners, which causes cold drafts.
Repotting
Due to their diminutive stature, Dracaena goldieana, D. sanderana, and D. surculosa do not require frequent repotting and can live their entire lives in a small pot. Every one to two years, in the spring, larger containers can be used to repot larger dracaenas until they reach a huge pot size. The ideal soil is made up of equal parts peat, soil, and vermiculite or sharp sand for drainage, though regular soil-based potting soil is also suitable.
Propagation
When the plant is in its early growth cycle in the spring, it is the ideal time to accomplish your propagating (though late summer will work too). You can remove the crown in a 3 to 6 inch length when it is still new and largely green. Remove all leaves except a couple, then cover the bottom 2 inches with rooting hormone. Place in a 3-inch container filled with a slightly wet rooting mixture made up of equal parts peat moss and sand or perlite. Keep the cutting warm and put it in a plastic bag. (It would be excellent if you could provide soft heat from underneath with a propagating mat or tray.) It should be kept in partial shade for 4 to 6 weeks or until roots emerge, at which point you should remove it from the bag, move it away from the warm area, and water it lightly. After the surface has dried, you should water it once more. every two weeks, feed.
If they have a growth bud, it is also feasible to root some of the long stem, but these roots are less dependable. Don’t forget to insert cuttings with the correct end up, or the direction the stem initially grew.
Cutting back a too tall plant
A plant will eventually grow too tall and lanky for the area it is in or lose so many leaves that it needs to be chopped back. Trim the leftover canes to just above the nodes for the neatest appearance because new growth will develop on the old stem from the nodes. Instead of developing the root stock again, you can prefer to start over with the piece you cut off; in that case, follow the propagation procedures above.
Are you able to trim spikes?
Dracaena spike doesn’t need to be pruned frequently, but you could decide to do so if you want to keep the plant’s height and width under control. Dracaena spike plants frequently get brown tips, either naturally or as a result of overwatering, like many other spiky plants. When you bring the plant inside after it has spent the summer outdoors, you could notice that brown tips are even more common. Although the health of the dracaena spike isn’t immediately impacted by these brown ends, they are frequently unsightly. Simple household scissors can be used to cut the brown ends of the blades. When the cut is made at a sharp 45-degree angle, it is much less obvious. Cut off any dead leaves at the plant stalk’s site of origin.
Can spikes be planted in the ground?
The most popular uses for this plant are as an annual to provide vertical interest to mixed plantings or as a lovely houseplant. Easily accessible varieties have striped foliage that features red, green, and white color combinations. additional name: Cordyline indivisa.
Basic Care Summary
very simple to grow in almost any environment. Most productive in rich, well-drained soil. Keep the soil moist by liberally watering during dry spells. For the finest display, fertilize frequently.
Planting Instructions
Garden preparation requires breaking up the existing soil (use a hoe, spade, or power tiller). As soon as the soil is loose and simple to work, add organic material like manure, peat moss, or garden compost. Organic components enhance drainage, supply nutrients, and promote earthworms and other soil-healthy organisms. Add a balanced all-purpose feed or granulated starting fertilizer to give plants a boost (for example fertilizers labeled 12-12-12).
For recommended spacing, look at the plant label. As plants struggle for light, crowding them might cause fewer blooms and weaker growth. Regions with a short growth season, shade plants, which grow more slowly and take longer to fill in, and situations where color needs to be added quickly—such as for a special event or when hosting visitors outdoors—could be exceptions to this rule.
Take the plant out of its container. If there are several plants together, gently squeeze the outside of each cell while tilting the container to one side. If the plant doesn’t come loose, keep applying pressure to the outside of the container while cautiously holding the plant’s base and pulling until it does. Be careful not to damage or crush the stem as you work. If the plant is in a pot, support the base, tip it to one side, then tap the container’s exterior to help it come loose. Till the plant easily emerges from the pot, rotate the container and keep tapping to release the soil.
Create a hole that is up to double the size of the root ball and deep enough so that the plant will be buried at the same depth as the dirt in the container. Use your finger to gently rake the roots apart while holding the plant at the top of the root ball. This is crucial, especially if the container has been completely filled with dense roots. In the hole, place the plant.
Gently compact the soil around the roots to fill in any gaps around the root ball. By hand, tamping with the flat side of a small trowel, or even by pressing down with your foot, compact the dirt around the plant. Up to an inch above the top of the root ball or even with the soil around it, the earth should cover the planting hole. To ensure that new plantings have a strong foundation, they should be watered every day for a few weeks.
Provide a trellis, fence, wall, or other structure that allows the plant to grow freely and spread since vining annuals need vertical space to thrive.
Watering Instructions
For the first several weeks after planting, new plants require regular watering. After that, watering can be reduced to every two or three days, depending on the climate and kind of soil. Expect to water more regularly in sandy areas since clay soils retain moisture less quickly than sandy soils.
Varying plants require different amounts of water. Some plants prefer to stay on the dry side, while others prefer constant moisture. Check a plant’s label to see what it needs specifically.
The root zone, or the region between 6 and 12 (15 to 30 cm) from the base of the plant, should receive watering in the ideal situation rather than the entire plant. For maintaining the health of plants and minimizing water loss through evaporation, a soaker hose is a wise purchase. A excellent technique to manage irrigation is to hand-water using a watering can with a sprinkler head attached. Try to water in the morning if the garden space is large and a sprinkler is required so that plant foliage can have time to dry during the day. Moist foliage promotes mold and disease, which can weaken or harm plants.
Use a small trowel or your finger to probe the soil and feel for wetness. It’s time to water if the top 2-4 (5-10 cm) of soil is dry.
Fertilizing Instructions
There are many different types of fertilizers, including granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic, and synthetic. Choose a product with a nutritional balance intended to promote flowering and determine which application technique is most appropriate for the circumstance (such as 5-10-5).
It’s crucial to follow the instructions on the fertilizer bottle to decide how much and how frequently to feed plants because too much fertilizer can potentially harm plants.
Pruning Instructions
To maintain the proper size and shape, prune plants as needed. Pruning back plants generates more blossoms and dense, bushy new growth.
To maintain the plant looking healthy and avoid seed production, which uses the plant’s energy instead of producing new blossoms, remove any old flowers.
Some plants are only cultivated for their eye-catching foliage (such as coleus, dusty miller and flowering kale). Since their blooms aren’t particularly showy, any buds should be removed to preserve the appearance of the foliage.
Can dracaena be grown outside?
Plant dracaenas in high-quality potting soil and place them in an area that receives bright indirect light to grow them as houseplants. The leaves of these plants can burn in direct sunlight.
These plants often thrive in typical home or office settings, but if you notice that the tips of their leaves are going brown, the humidity may be too low. Use a spray bottle to often mist your plant, or place it on top of some stones in a saucer of water. Keep the roots away from the water to prevent them from rotting. The water will increase the humidity of the air around it as it evaporates.
Follow the instructions on the label for how often and how much to apply a balanced houseplant fertilizer, and water your plant when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Feed typically once every two weeks in the spring and summer. In the winter, when the plant has to go mostly dormant, reduce feeding to once a month from once a month in the fall.
Dracaena indivisia ‘Spikes’
Dracaena indivisa ‘Spikes’ grows 2 to 3 feet tall in garden beds and requires part sun to full light. It is hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 11.
As one might anticipate from plants that are native to the tropics, dracaenas planted in the garden require warm temperatures. Frost will kill them, but if you occasionally have a cold snap, you might be able to temporarily protect your dracaena. Make careful to take off the cover as the weather starts to warm up again.
Outdoor soil doesn’t matter to dracaenas as long as it drains well. They will, however, thrive in garden soil that has been modified with compost or other organic matter. They cannot tolerate direct sunlight, just like dracaenas cultivated as houseplants.