Holiday cacti are often fairly hardy and do not suffer from many diseases. The following are a few fungal or disease problems that may affect them:
HOLIDAY CACTUS STEM ROT
resembles: light brown wet spots near the plant’s base on the stem.
Solution: Stem rot is extremely tough to treat, therefore starting a new plant from strong leaf cuttings is typically your best option. Take some cuttings first and place them in a new container if you wish to try to save the mother plant. Next, make an effort to remove the rotten stem fragment. Make sure you remove all the rotten, gooey brown parts. If you don’t, the plant will just spread and die. Even if you are able to stop the rot, there is a significant probability that it will still perish.
How can a dead Christmas cactus be revived?
Repot the Christmas cactus into new soil when it is extremely limp and the earth is wet. As much soil as you can gently remove from the pot after removing the weak Christmas cactus from it. By repotting your Christmas cactus with your own homemade soil, you can prevent future issues. Use high-quality potting soil in a 2:1 ratio with sand or vermiculite to ensure precise drainage.
Repotting a weak Christmas cactus might be the answer, even if the soil is dry. Even though the plant prefers to be tucked away in its pot, switching to a little larger pot with new soil every few years will help you prevent Christmas cactus issues.
How can an overwatered Christmas cactus be identified?
Any cactus that has been left to sit in a saucer of water is probably less healthy. The Christmas cactus plant will manifest clear signs of suffering if it is overwatered. To avoid moisture gnats and preserve the roots from decaying, you should always dump the extra water from the saucer if it hasn’t dried in a day.
One of the first signs of overwatering on a Christmas cactus are limp leaves that begin to fall off, just in case you forgot to do this. The stems and branches will thereafter become mushy and spongy. In severe situations, the stem can entirely rot off and the symptoms will include a bad smell.
Prevention is easy to do. To avoid overwatering Christmas cactus, use a soil moisture meter.
How can a brown cactus be revived?
This article could be helpful if you’re trying to figure out How To Save a Dying Cactus. Cacti are popular among those who buy and care for them. It’s distressing when they are ill because they’ve probably been around for a while. Follow these instructions to save a cactus at your residence or place of business.
CUT ROTTING PARTS AWAY
Overwatering is typically indicated by rotting. It is necessary to remove the black or brown portions of the cactus. After then, you must decide whether your soil is entirely saturated and needs to be placed in a new pot with fresh soil, or if you can wait till it dries out and then resume your new watering regimen. Use a mixture of one part peat, two parts garden soil, and two parts coarse sand if you opt to repot your cactus.
ADJUST DAILY SUNLIGHT
Your cactus can be receiving too much or not enough sunshine, depending on the amount of light that is available. More sunlight should be supplied to cacti that are elongating or rounded. For optimal results, either move the plant during the middle of the day or place it where it receives more daily hours of sunlight.
ADJUST WATERING
You should apply water to cacti that appear wilting, are shrinking, or are wrinkled. To prevent root rot, it’s crucial to let the soil completely dry up before watering. If your cactus is in a pot, make sure it can quickly drain any extra water. Depending on the season and temperature, watering should be modified. You should water indoor plants once a week throughout the hottest months of the year. You should scale back on that during the cooler months of the year and only water when the soil is fully dry. When the weather is extremely dry and there is no chance of rain, you should keep an eye on the soil and water in the outdoor area. Find out here how to water a cactus.
RINSE OFF DIRT & DUST
When the cactus’ flesh is covered in dirt or dust, it cannot properly process the light. To rinse off this residue, use a soft sponge or rag. You have two options for cleaning it: either rinse your cactus under the sink’s tap or use a sponge moistened with water and a little dish soap. To gently rinse off your cactus outside, use a house.
CONTROL PESTS & INSECTS
Pests and insects also destroy cacti. They’ll make your cactus sick and produce discoloration in certain areas. Common insects that affect cactus include mealybugs and spider mites. For spider mite remedies, visit your neighborhood nursery. To get rid of mealybugs, try rubbing alcohol. Tiny red spiders called spider mites spin sheets-like webs. Clusters of powdered white mealybugs can be seen.
USE LOW NITROGEN FERTILIZER
Use fertilizer when the growth season first begins, which is often around March. Different ratios are used while mixing and packaging fertilizer. The nitrogen should be rated at 10, which is the ideal ratio for cactus. This indicates that a 10 (N)30 (P)20 is a typical answer (K). Avoid using too much nitrogen because it may hinder growth and give your plants a flabby texture.
How can I tell whether my Christmas cactus is on its last legs?
An examination of the roots of a Christmas cactus will reveal the presence of root rot despite the plant’s withered, limp, and sagging growth.
Gently remove the plant from its container. The roots of a cactus that has rot will have blackened tips. Rotten Christmas cactus roots will be sticky with black or brown decomposition, depending on the extent of the illness.
It’s imperative to take quick action if you find that your Christmas cactus is rotting. Once it has spread, the only cure for the deadly disease rot is to destroy the plant and start over. You can grow a new plant from a leaf if the plant’s healthy portion allows for it.
How frequently should a Christmas cactus be watered?
Christmas cacti are highly common indoor plants, and for good reason too! They produce vibrant, tubular flowers that are pink or purple in hue when they bloom. They are a superb plant because of their lovely blossoms, lengthy bloom period, and simple maintenance needs. Someone in your family most likely owns a Christmas cactus!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins don’t exist in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, in contrast to other cacti. These epiphytic succulents, which grow on tree branches and take in the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures, are actually endemic to the tropical rainforests of southern Brazil.
Bottom line: Don’t handle a Christmas cactus like a typical succulent or cactus. They are unable to withstand the same kind of hot, dry weather that other cactus can. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you also need to be careful not to overwater them. (See the care guidelines in more detail below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
The Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three main varieties of “holiday cacti” that are available (S. x buckleyi). The holiday that each cactus is named after often sees the most blooming. Thanksgiving cacti, which often bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti, make up the majority of “Christmas cacti” sold nowadays. See our post on the several Christmas cacti species and how to distinguish them for more information.
Note: Because it’s the most widely used term and it applies to all three of these species, we’ll refer to all three of them on this page as “Christmas cactus” for simplicity’s sake.
Potting Christmas Cacti
- Choose a pot with a drainage hole on the bottom if you’re choosing one for a Christmas cactus. This prevents the soil from getting overly saturated.
- Most succulent-specific potting mixtures work well for Christmas cacti growth. It’s crucial that your potting soil drains properly.
Where to Put a Christmas Cactus
- Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. The best location has an east-facing window or a well-lit bathroom. The delicate leaves might be bleached by too much direct sunshine.
- It is preferable to have a daytime temperature of 70F (21C) and an evening temperature of 60–65F (15–18C).
- Christmas cacti do well in a more humid climate, so keeping them in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
- Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady area of the garden or on an unheated porch during the summer until the temperature drops below 50F. (10C). Keep them away from the sun’s rays outside.
How to Care for Christmas Cacti
- Water your plants every two to three weeks, but only when the top third of the soil feels dry to the touch. If the plant is in 6 inches of soil, for instance, water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. (Check with your finger!)
- When the soil is completely dry, wet it until water seeps through the drainage holes in the pot. To collect the water, put a tray underneath the pot. To prevent the pot from sitting in water, remove any extra water on the tray after 10 to 15 minutes.
- While the plant is in bloom, it’s very crucial to water thoroughly.
- Feed your indoor plants with a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks from spring through early fall. Feed the cactus once a month in the fall and winter to promote fruitful blooming.
- To promote branching and more flowers, prune plants in the late spring. Simply cut a portion of each stem off; the plant will grow new branches from the incision.
- If desired, plant the cut pieces in potting soil that is only gently damp; they will easily root after a few weeks and make wonderful Christmas gifts!
How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom
The longer evenings and chilly weather of fall are what cause Christmas cacti and its relatives to bloom. The three major varieties of holiday cacti typically bloom on the following schedule:
- Thanksgiving cactus typically produce flowers from late October through mid-winter, making them the earliest and longest bloomers.
- Christmas cacti often bloom in the early to midwinter months.
- Easter cacti flower around the middle of spring through late winter.
If your cactus isn’t flowering, it can be getting too much light or being exposed to too much heat. Here are some suggestions to help you get blooms from yours!
- For a minimum of six weeks, the nights must be at least 14 hours long and the days between 8 and 10 hours. You might need to cover your cactus or relocate it to an area that is exposed to the natural light cycle if you have powerful interior lighting that is on at night.
- When the plant is kept at temps between 50 and 60F, flower buds form best (10 and 15C).
- By subjecting the plant to temps around 45F (7C) for a number of nights in a succession, you can jumpstart the budding process.
- While the plant is in bloom, be sure to water it consistently. The plant may lose its buds if it dries out too much.
- Don’t worry if the cactus loses its buds one winter; the following year it should bloom.
The three primary varieties of “holiday cacti” are as follows:
- Often mistaken for Christmas cacti, Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) bloom from late October to mid-winter.
- Christmas cacti (S. x buckleyi) flower in the early to midwinter months.
- Late winter to mid-spring is the blooming period for Easter cacti (S. gaertneri).
- Make sure to water your Christmas cactus frequently and keep it cool when the buds on the plant appear ready to open.
- The optimum time to propagate cuttings is late spring when most holiday cacti start to grow after their winter hibernation.
Blossom loss: Your Christmas cactus will probably lose its blossoms if it experiences any kind of stress. As mentioned in the plant care section above, this could be caused by the amount of light or a sudden shift in temperature. Make sure your soil doesn’t become overly dry while buds are developing.
The plant could be vulnerable to mealy bugs and root rot if overwatered. If you experience issues, remove the affected sections and repot the plant in fresh soil.
Why does my Christmas cactus appear lifeless?
A Christmas cactus’ wilted or limp leaves can be brought on by a variety of factors, including as excessive or insufficient watering and too much exposure to the sun. Their ideal environment includes some shade, enough humidity, warmth, and moderate watering.
Give your plant a drink as soon as you can if underwatering is the reason for the limp leaves. Christmas cactus plants are prone to root rot, which is a key contributor to their limp leaves and is frequently brought on by overwatering.
Continue reading to find out how to repair a frequent problem that causes limp leaves and a lack of flowers in Christmas cacti.
Can a cactus grow after being overwatered?
But if you notice any green on your cactus, there’s a strong possibility you can still revive it, regardless of how awful it appears. The task of saving an overwatered cactus is definitely doable. With some patience and some work, you can grow a healthy cactus in a few weeks.
How should a Christmas cactus be watered—from the top or the bottom?
To ensure that the water reaches the Christmas cactus’ roots, irrigate it from the bottom up. Continue adding water to the soil until it begins to seep through the pot’s openings. It hydrates the ground.
Ensure that there is no standing water beneath the pot once the soil has been thoroughly moistened. Never leave excess water in the planter; you don’t want mold, root rot, or insects laying eggs there. If the water is fully separate from the pot and is in a tray underneath the pot, that’s acceptable.
Mist the Leaves
You can sprinkle the leaves with water in a spray bottle to keep them as healthy as possible. When watering the plant, misting the leaves only once will be sufficient to provide appropriate hydration.
When a cactus goes brown, what happens?
Cacti can change color from yellow to brown. This process, known as corking, is most frequently caused by aging. When a cactus reaches maturity, corking occurs spontaneously.
It starts at the plant’s base where the soil is in contact and might gently progress upward or remain stationary. The plant looks woody after corking. The plant is solid to the touch and generally healthy.
You have a distinct problem if the plant becomes brown and feels mushy or soft to the touch. This typically indicates either rotting, sickness, or both. Rot can develop at the roots of a cactus that has been exposed to constant moisture and progress up the plant.
A cactus can also turn brown from diseases like fungus or from pest infestation. The browning frequently affects various plant components, and when touched, it will feel soft and mushy rather than hard.