I bought a Christmas cactus with lots of buds. A day or two later, it began losing three to four buds per day. By Christmas, everything will be gone at this pace! What should I do?
A: It appears like your new Christmas cactus is responding to an alteration in its surroundings. Overwatering, significant temperature changes, or a lack of light can all cause buds to fall off plants. Your plant received extra care to blossom around Christmas and was given the ideal growing environment at this time. It met less than optimal circumstances somewhere during travel, possibly within your house. The plant’s response to the challenging conditions is the bud drop that follows.
You can aid its recovery by giving it the necessities. A tropical plant known as the Christmas cactus needs a soil mixture that is highly organic, plenty of moisture, bright light, and normal indoor temperatures.
Take your Christmas cactus outside in the summer the following year, and fertilize it every month with diluted houseplant food. At the end of September, bring it back inside and keep it completely dark for 16 hours every day so the plant can develop blossom buds. The simplest way to do this is to leave it in a well-lit area for eight hours, cover it with a box, or store it in a closet for sixteen hours. It requires complete darkness; even a little period of daylight will prevent buds from forming. Keep the temperature between 60 and 70 degrees F throughout this forcing period, and avoid fertilizing the plant. Your Christmas cactus can be placed in regular light in early December and will bloom in a few weeks.
How can I avoid the buds on my Christmas cactus from falling off?
I sometimes think like everything is working against me and my plants. They can become unwell, fail to bloom, or fail to bear fruit for a variety of reasons. Christmas cactus bud drop can have a variety of causes, including improper cultural care, poor lighting, the plant’s erratic behavior, and environmental factors. These plants require more water than real cacti, and they need at least 14 hours of darkness each day for the buds to form. Incorrect hydration, drafty circumstances, hot or cold temperatures, and an abundance of buds are additional problems that could cause a Christmas cactus to drop its bloom buds.
The most frequent issue with Christmas cacti, aside from root rot, is bud drop. Being sensitive plants that were raised in tightly regulated conditions, it is frequently brought on by a change in the environment. Bud drop can be caused by just moving your plant to a different spot in the house, but fresh plants are going to experience a full host of shocks that could also cause buds to fall.
The plant will become confused by changes in temperature, humidity, lighting, and maintenance, and will cease producing all those gorgeous blossoms. Try to mimic greenhouse maintenance as nearly as you can.
- Water the soil evenly, but avoid letting it become wet.
- In the late summer, stop fertilizing.
- Maintain a range of 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (15-26 C.). Christmas cactus buds may fall off in temperatures over 90 F (32 C).
Brazil’s densely forested tropical jungles are home to Christmas cacti. These epiphytic plants grow in the warm, shady womb that the dense tree canopy and other vegetation create. To force bud formation, they need a time without much light. Give the Christmas cactus 14 hours of darkness from September through the end of November, but bright light the rest of the year to guarantee that there are no buds falling off and that production is dense.
The plant naturally experiences these “long nights” in its home country. The plant should be kept in bright light for the final 10 hours of the day, but keep it away from direct sunlight coming from southern windows. The fake lighting routine can be stopped once the buds have settled and started to open.
Do the flowers on cacti fall off?
What causes my Christmas cactus’ buds to fall off before they open? I’ve had this plant for a while, and when I bring it inside after spending the summer outside in the shade, it’s happy and full of buds. I do occasionally get flowers that bloom, but a great deal more come off. I’m taking care to avoid over- or under-watering.
A sudden change in environment can occasionally stress Christmas cacti, causing them to lose their flower buds. If the decline appears a short time after bringing the plant back inside, that might account for it.
Christmas cacti aren’t genuine cacti, so they need more water than you might think—roughly equivalent to the needs of the majority of other tropical houseplants.
They were originally from tropical woods, so they really don’t like dry indoor air, which is one of the reasons plants specifically lose buds when moving from a humidity-controlled greenhouse to a dry home or from a more humid outdoor environment into a house that has the heat on for the winter.
Is it conceivable that the plant is being affected by drying air from a nearby heater vent or cold drafts from a nearby door if the bud drop doesn’t occur right away after the transfer indoors? That might be fixed quickly and easily with a small movement.
During the growing season, Christmas cactus benefits from a monthly application of houseplant fertilizer, but it sets flowers better when the fertilizer is discontinued about the middle of September.
Additionally, that’s when the plant requires nighttime darkness.
ideally, each night should be completely black for at least 14 hours. Is your plant located in a space with a lot of light? Or perhaps the plant isn’t obtaining the necessary darkness since it is exposed to sporadic light.
When they discovered the plants were being struck by light from automobile headlights as people were leaving for work in the morning, one of the producers at Longwood Gardens told me they were having difficulties getting their greenhouse poinsettias to develop color in late fall. The poinsettias were impacted by the dark interruption to a sufficient degree (which also want that full night of interrupted darkness to color). The plants took on a lovely hue when a cover was raised to shield the headlights.
Christmas cactus prefers somewhat bright light during the day. Therefore, if yours is in a dim area, that may potentially be impacting its flower power.
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When a Christmas cactus is blooming, should you water it?
Maintain a comfortable temperature of 65 degrees. Watering: Mist your plant frequently when it is in bloom to keep the soil equally moist.
Why won’t my Christmas cactus’ buds open up?
Thanksgiving cactus, holiday cactus, and crab cactus are all names for the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata). The leaf-shaped stem segments with curled, pointy teeth or claws around the margins are known as crabs. The leaf segments of the Easter cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) have rounded edges. They all came from wet, dark forests around the southeast coast of Brazil. Because they reside above ground in trees, where branches meet and decaying leaves and moss amass, they are categorized as epiphytes.
Although this plant has the moniker “cactus,” the maintenance it needs has nothing to do with its relatives in the desert. It is regarded as a type of woodland cactus. Its needs can be traced back to its beginnings. Christmas cactus thrives best when it is “pot bound. That entails storing it in a small container for as long as possible before transferring it to a pot that is only marginally larger. They should not be allowed to dry out and like a thick organic potting mix. When the plant is blossoming, increase the watering. They favor direct, bright light. As the plants start to burn in full light, the leaf segments might turn a dark red color.
The “secret to getting Christmas cactus to bloom in the following years after purchase comes down to two things: light and temperature. These two hold the secret to the realm of flowers. Flowers are produced by Christmas cacti during a chilly, brief day cycle. It takes at least eight days of 16 hours of darkness and 8 hours of light every day for flower buds to begin to form. No matter where the plant is located, avoid using the lights at night, even for a little time. That ends the necessary dark cycle. Around 61 degrees should be the ambient temperature. Place the plant away from drafts of either cold or hot air.
All that is required is to set the Christmas cactus on the window sill in a chilly area without turning on the lights. In a brightly lit space, a plant’s side towards the window will frequently sprout buds, but not the other way around. It usually has to do with either receiving too much or not enough water or with there being insufficient humidity in the air if the plant sets flower buds and then they fall off. The good news is that if their temperature and light needs are met, Christmas cacti are thought to be rather simple to induce to bloom once more.
How often should my Christmas cactus be watered?
Christmas cacti are highly common indoor plants, and for good reason too! They produce vibrant, tubular flowers that are pink or purple in hue when they bloom. They are a superb plant because of their lovely blossoms, lengthy bloom period, and simple maintenance needs. Someone in your family most likely owns a Christmas cactus!
About Christmas Cacti
The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins don’t exist in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, in contrast to other cacti. These epiphytic succulents, which grow on tree branches and take in the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures, are actually endemic to the tropical rainforests of southern Brazil.
Bottom line: Don’t handle a Christmas cactus like a typical succulent or cactus. They are unable to withstand the same kind of hot, dry weather that other cactus can. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you also need to be careful not to overwater them. (See the care guidelines in more detail below.)
Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?
Each holiday cactus typically blooms closest to the holiday that it is named after: the Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus (S. x buckleyi). However, most of the “Christmas cacti sold today are actually Thanksgiving cacti, which tend to bloom from November through February and thus pass unnoticed as Christmas cacti. See our post on the several Christmas cacti species and how to distinguish them for more information.
Note: Because it’s the most widely used term and it applies to all three of these species, we’ll refer to all three of them on this page as “Christmas cactus” for simplicity’s sake.
Potting Christmas Cacti
- Choose a pot with a drainage hole on the bottom if you’re choosing one for a Christmas cactus. This prevents the soil from getting overly saturated.
- Most succulent-specific potting mixtures work well for Christmas cacti growth. It’s crucial that your potting soil drains properly.
Where to Put a Christmas Cactus
- Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. The best location has an east-facing window or a well-lit bathroom. The delicate leaves can be bleached by too much direct sunlight.
- It is preferable to have a daytime temperature of 70F (21C) and an evening temperature of 60–65F (15–18C).
- Christmas cacti do well in a more humid climate, so keeping them in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
- Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady area of the garden or on an unheated porch during the summer until the temperature drops below 50F. (10C). Keep them away from the sun’s rays outside.
How to Care for Christmas Cacti
- Water your plants every two to three weeks, but only when the top third of the soil feels dry to the touch. If the plant is in 6 inches of soil, for instance, water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. (Check with your finger!)
- When the soil is completely dry, wet it until water seeps through the drainage holes in the pot. To collect the water, put a tray underneath the pot. To prevent the pot from sitting in water, remove any extra water on the tray after 10 to 15 minutes.
- While the plant is in bloom, it’s very crucial to water thoroughly.
- Feed your indoor plants with a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks from spring through early fall. Feed the cactus once a month in the fall and winter to promote fruitful blooming.
- To promote branching and more flowers, prune plants in the late spring. Simply cut a portion of each stem off; the plant will grow new branches from the incision.
- If desired, plant the cut pieces in potting soil that is only gently damp; they will easily root after a few weeks and make wonderful Christmas gifts!
How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom
The longer evenings and chilly weather of fall are what cause Christmas cacti and its relatives to bloom. The three major varieties of holiday cacti typically bloom on the following schedule:
- Thanksgiving cactus typically produce flowers from late October through mid-winter, making them the earliest and longest bloomers.
- Christmas cacti often bloom in the early to midwinter months.
- Easter cacti flower around the middle of spring through late winter.
If your cactus isn’t flowering, it can be getting too much light or being exposed to too much heat. Here are some suggestions to help you get blooms from yours!
- For a minimum of six weeks, the nights must be at least 14 hours long and the days between 8 and 10 hours. You might need to cover your cactus or relocate it to an area that is exposed to the natural light cycle if you have powerful interior lighting that is on at night.
- When the plant is kept at temps between 50 and 60F, flower buds form best (10 and 15C).
- By subjecting the plant to temps around 45F (7C) for a number of nights in a succession, you can jumpstart the budding process.
- While the plant is in bloom, be sure to water it consistently. The plant may lose its buds if it dries out too much.
- Don’t worry if the cactus loses its buds one winter; the following year it should bloom.
The three primary varieties of “holiday cacti” are as follows:
- Often mistaken for Christmas cacti, Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) bloom from late October to mid-winter.
- Christmas cacti (S. x buckleyi) flower in the early to midwinter months.
- Late winter to mid-spring is the blooming period for Easter cacti (S. gaertneri).
- Make sure to water your Christmas cactus frequently and keep it cool when the buds on the plant appear ready to open.
- The optimum time to propagate cuttings is late spring when most holiday cacti start to grow after their winter hibernation.
Blossom loss: Your Christmas cactus will probably lose its blossoms if it experiences any kind of stress. As mentioned in the plant care section above, this could be caused by the amount of light or a sudden shift in temperature. Make sure your soil doesn’t become overly dry while buds are developing.
The plant could be vulnerable to mealy bugs and root rot if overwatered. If you experience issues, remove the affected sections and repot the plant in fresh soil.