Christmas cacti do not, strictly speaking, have a native environment. They are a hybrid species created through the mating of Schlumbergera truncata (the Thanksgiving cactus) and russelliana. So where are the natural origins of these parent species?
Both are jungle cacti, sometimes known as tropical cacti, which means they don’t typically grow in the same arid environments as many of their cactus siblings. They were first discovered in the same tiny region of tropical southeast Brazil, where they develop in wet, high-altitude woods while soaking up the humidity, shady sunlight, and warm temperatures.
Similar to other epiphytes like string of turtles, air plants, and arrowhead plants, they naturally grow on trees in a non-parasitic manner.
Description
Members of the Rhipsalideae group, Christmas cacti are also known as Zygocacti in horticulture. They are epiphytic succulents that grow on trees, and their growth habit makes them simple to identify. The plants don’t actually have leaves; instead, they create cladodes, which are flattened, green stem segments that resemble long trailing leaves and are employed for photosynthetic purposes.
The flowers of a Christmas cactus are truly stunning, making it impossible to mistake them for anything else. The tubular blooms, which are found at the ends of the segmented stalks, bloom around the Christmas season because the short days and long nights cause them to open (and can bloom again in late winter, given the right conditions).
Selective breeding has produced an astounding array of flower hues, including the traditional red and pink as well as yellow, orange, white, and multicolored varieties.
Cultural significance and lifespan
This plant has unquestionably had significant cultural impact. It is a well-liked indoor plant that is utilized to spruce up homes throughout the holiday season in November and December not just in the US but all over the northern hemisphere.
Did you realize? This plant is called “flor de maio” in its home country of Brazil, which is in the southern hemisphere. This is due to the fact that it blossoms there in May, just before winter, rather than in December!
The plants are widely available starting in the middle of the fall, are cheaply priced while they are in bloom, and are frequently thrown away once they have finished flowering. Like poinsettias and amaryllis, Christmas cacti are frequently treated as seasonal houseplants.
However, Christmas cacti can be kept as indoor plants all year round. With proper care, they can easily live for 20 to 30 years, and in some cases, even up to 100 years or longer!
Can you picture giving your kids or grandchildren a houseplant as a living heirloom? Or getting a Christmas cactus that has been in the family for generations as an inheritance? (I enjoy obsessing about something like that!)
Additionally, you won’t have to stress too much about leaving your cherished plant to your heirs. A Christmas cactus requires only a little extra care to promote repeat blooming during the fall and winter. (Take note that even if your Christmas cactus doesn’t bloom every year, it may still be in good health.)
When should a Christmas cactus be purchased?
In the late fall and winter, Christmas cacti are typically bought already in bloom or at least budded. Avoid drastic temperature changes when transporting your Christmas cactus since they can cause some of the buds to fall off. For optimal results, place in a light window and maintain the soil just moist enough. During the winter flowering season, fertilizer is not required.
Christmas cacti require as much light as possible once the last blooms have faded and prefer to be maintained on the cool side during rest periods (February – March and July – August). The plant needs to be transferred to a normal room temperature once the flower buds begin to appear in the fall.
At the start of the growth period, these cacti should be repotted every three to five years. It’s important that the soil flow easily, so always use a light soil (commercial cactus soil is acceptable).
The right amount of water, food, and relaxation must be given at the right times. Additionally, the length of daylight and the temperature of the environment will affect flowering.
The plant needs to rest when flowering is finished. Sparingly water it; do not let the stems to shrivel. If at all feasible, relocate the plant to a cool, well-lit area.
From the first of April, begin watering more frequently. Now that winter is over, the cactus will begin to flourish once more. The tips of each stem will have fresh shoots that may be seen plainly. If necessary, pot in April, and then feed a few times throughout the following months. Use a regular cactus soil that allows water to drain freely. If the soil is excessively damp, the weak roots will decay.
Christmas cacti can be placed outside in a light spot once the weather warms up. Avoid direct sunlight because certain types’ stems might become sunburned. I prefer bright, dappled shade.
This time of year is ideal for taking cuttings if you wish to. Placing good stems with two to four segments in damp sand makes propagation simple.
Reduce watering and let the soil completely dry in between waterings so that it doesn’t shrivel.
If you have your cactus outside for the summer, you can leave it there until the temperatures at night fall below fifty degrees (this period of cool nights and shortening days will encourage lots of flower buds). Restart increasing watering as soon as there are any indications of blossom buds. When growing blooms, the cactus must never become dry or be moved around excessively, as this will cause the buds to fall off the plant.
Mid-fall is when you should start to notice little, spherical buds emerging at the tips. When buds are growing in September and October, a few fertilizer applications may be beneficial for an old, huge plant.
It is diagnosed as needing more water. Give it a good soak in a basin of water or the sink, and after about 30 minutes, let it completely drain.
The roots are rotting, thus that is the diagnosis. Either the soil composition is incorrect or the plant has been overwatered. Take good cuttings and establish new plants because the plant cannot endure much longer.
The plant has either experienced too much movement or not enough water during the period when it establishes its buds, according to the diagnosis. More care should be given to it; observe the results. The next bloom cycle might be all that’s necessary for you to witness its splendor.
This year, give a Christmas cactus a try! The plant you purchase now might end up as an heirloom tomorrow!
When should a Christmas cactus be placed in a dimly lit area?
The second technique does not require darkness at night. Keep the plant in a well-lit backroom starting in late September or early October (I know; it’s too late this year), when nighttime temps may be maintained between 45 and 55 degrees. Water very little until buds start to appear.
How long is the lifespan of a Christmas cactus?
During the holidays, the Christmas cactus may be seen everywhere, and with good cause. It’s a blooming succulent that requires little maintenance, produces lovely blooms, and, with the right care, can last up to 100 years! That is correct! This plant may endure for a long time, bringing color to your holidays for many years. For a plant that is as cheap and uncomplicated as the Christmas cactus, that’s a fairly great investment!
Can several Christmas cacti be planted together?
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi, originally Zygocactus x buckleyi), a real cactus that is native to Brazil and is frequently offered for sale throughout the winter, thrives outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12. Christmas cactus is a low-maintenance plant with few pests and diseases that is grown for its vivid, tubular blossoms. If neither plant has a disease or pest infestation, you can put an old Christmas cactus and a new plant together in a single container.
Do Christmas cacti benefit from coffee grounds?
During the growing season, give your cactus fertilizer with potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus once or twice a month. It is simpler to feed a plant when the fertilizer dissolves in water. Epsom salts can also be administered to it (more about this in a moment).
Do Christmas Cactus Like Coffee Grounds?
As much as you do, your Christmas cactus will appreciate a cup of joe. Potassium and nitrogen, two nutrients the cactus needs to be healthy, are abundant in coffee grounds.
Spread the grounds out to dry first before using them because wet grounds might get moldy if used immediately. Give your plant its daily dose of coffee by either dispersing the dried grinds on the soil or blending them with water. Use this method to fertilize your cactus no more than once every two weeks.
Is Epsom Salt Good For Christmas Cactus?
Your Christmas cactus will, in fact, enjoy some Epsom salt. It’s an excellent approach to guarantee that the plant receives all the magnesium it requires to flourish and expand. One teaspoon of salt should be added to one gallon of water when mixing the salt and water. As it only requires fertilizer and food during the spring and summer growing seasons, stop feeding it in the fall.
Does Christmas cactus benefit from Epsom salt?
The winter solstice, which occurs on December 21 in the Northern Hemisphere, is the day and night with the shortest lengths of the year.
Christmas cacti, poinsettias, kalanchoes, and chrysanthemums are a few common plants that people give as gifts during the holidays. Their flowering is perfectly timed for the shorter days that we enjoy during this season.
The development of flower buds in many plants is influenced by how much light the plants receive. “Photoperiodism” refers to a plant’s response to the length of the day. While some plants flower as the days get shorter, others do so as the days become longer. Some plants are neutral, meaning that day length has no direct impact on flowering.
Brazilian Christmas cacti are common indoor plants that come in a wide range of hues, including red, rose, purple, lavender, peach, orange, cream, and white. In shaded rain forests, these plants thrive as epiphytes among tree branches, and their cascading stems make them an excellent choice for hanging baskets. If the plants are managed at a temperature of 68 degrees Fahrenheit, flowering can last seven to eight weeks.
During this time of year, customers frequently phone the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension office upset because their Christmas cacti or other short-day indoor plants did not bloom. They are frequently shocked to discover that if these plants are kept indoors year-round, the artificial light in the home can interfere with their natural cycle of exposure to sunshine. In order to simulate natural daylight exposure with shorter days, it becomes a difficulty.
One option is to put these plants near a window in a room that receives only natural light, turning off the artificial lighting at night. A different choice is to keep these plants outside as long as you can in the fall and then bring them inside just before the risk of freezing weather. In the Atlanta region, this typically means keeping the majority of tropical indoor plants outside until close to the end of October. Short-day plants are already set to begin flowering during the approaching holidays at this point.
On his porch, my grandfather used to keep a Christmas cactus all summer long in a hanging basket before taking it inside just before the first freeze each year. It was a large plant that would blossom in large numbers between Thanksgiving and Christmas. He maintained this plant for almost ten years, and it gave him a lot of Christmas delight.
A Christmas cactus has the advantage of not losing leaves like poinsettias or other houseplants, which is one of its many advantages. Because Christmas cactus lack genuine leaves, photosynthesis takes place inside the green stem segments known as phylloclades. To encourage branching terminals for more flowers, pinch back the stems in the first few weeks of June. You can also utilize stem portions with three to five segments to root new plants.
Temperature control and photoperiod (control of day and night length) control are key factors in the fall flower bud formation of Christmas cacti. Before flower buds will set, each night must have at least 14 hours of nonstop darkness.
For a full bud set, long nights must begin around the middle of September and last for at least six weeks. Be aware that even two hours of intermittent lighting can prevent flower buds from setting. Typically, buds will appear in approximately four weeks. Once the buds are set, the photoperiod has little impact on flowering.
Christmas cacti may live in dry, marginally submerged environments in the spring and summer. Avoid letting the soil become soggy, especially during the lengthy winter evenings. To stop flower buds from dropping off after bud set in the fall, the soil must be kept consistently moist. In the saucer underneath the pot, never let water stand.
From the time new growth begins in late winter or early spring through the summer, fertilize plants every month using a liquid fertilizer of half strength, such as 20-20-20 with trace elements. Compared to many plants, Christmas cacti have a greater magnesium need. Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) should be used as a fertilizer every month during the growing season; however, it should not be used the same week as conventional fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in the late summer to increase the formation of bloom buds in the fall.