What Does Root Rot Look Like On A Christmas Cactus

The best course of action if root rot is suspected is to take the cactus from its pot right once, rinse the soil from the roots, and cut off any rotten or soft sections of roots. Repot the plant after that in a fresh pot with drainage holes and barely moist soil. Use cactus soil and less frequently water your plants. After watering, wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again, then empty the drip tray of any extra water.

Both stem rot and root rot are microbial issues, but fungicides rarely work well. It’s easier and quicker to repot or start new plants in clean soil and pots because you don’t need to be able to pinpoint the precise pathogen causing the fungal problem in order to choose the proper fungicide.

BOTRYTIS BLIGHT, OR GRAY MOLD

Botrytis blight, a fungal infection, is the cause. It spreads as spores and thrives on decomposing vegetation. A plant is more vulnerable when there is a lot of humidity and the leaves are wet.

Botrytis blight plants should be thrown away and killed right away as a remedy. If you plan to reuse the pot, be careful to sterilize it with bleach. By increasing ventilation and air flow, you can fight off Botrytis blight.

NECROTIC SPOT VIRUS

Solution: segregate your plant, then use a suitable insecticide to get rid of the thrips. Repot your plant in a fresh container after buying fresh soil. Place the soil in a black bag that is knotted securely and placed in your trash bin. Make sure to clean the pot with bleach if you plan to use it again.

How can a Christmas cactus with root rot be revived?

Early detection of the illness may allow you to save it. The Christmas cactus needs to be taken out of the container right away. Trim away fungus-filled roots, then gently clean the remaining roots. To allow the roots to dry overnight, place the plant on a paper towel and place it in a warm, well-ventilated area.

The following day, plant the Christmas cactus in a dry container with new, light potting soil. To allow the soil to drain freely, make sure the pot has a drainage hole. Before watering the newly potted Christmas cactus, wait a few days.

Make sure you know how to water your Christmas cactus the most efficiently before you resume watering. Always water the plant well until water drops out of the drainage hole, let the plant dry up, and then put the pot back on the drainage saucer. Keep the plant out of water at all times.

The plant is most healthy in settings when it is just slightly submerged, so take care not to kill it with kindness. Wait to water until the soil’s top 1/2 inch (1 cm) feels dry. During the winter, water infrequently, but don’t let the potting mix go completely dry.

During the fall and winter, place the plant in direct sunshine; during the spring and summer, place it in light shade.

A Christmas cactus can it withstand root rot?

Your holiday season was brightened by the abundance of beautiful flowers on your Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera truncate), if you’re like the majority of individuals who bought one last year.

Even though you’re undoubtedly anticipating a similar performance this year, if your plant seems to be withering, you could be worried that it won’t survive long enough to put on its distinctive floral display.

Christmas cactus is a very hardy plant that requires little maintenance to thrive and is resistant to most pests and pathogens, but it is prone to root rot. A plant can be destroyed if root rot is not treated.

If you think your Christmas Cactus may have developed root rot, there are, fortunately, ways to save it.

What you need to know is as follows:

Signs of Root and Rot

The plant’s wilting and drooping while still receiving water is the main sign that your Christmas cactus has gotten root rot. A musty smell could also be present since fungal organisms in the soil are what cause root rot. The Christmas Cactus can develop root rot due to a variety of fungus. Because they evolved as epiphytes—plants that grow on the surfaces of other plants and obtain their water and nutrients from the surrounding air—this type of plant is particularly susceptible to root rot.

What causes Christmas cactus root rot?

By restricting the amount of oxygen that roots can absorb and by weakening their tissue, overwatering harms them. Overwatering frequently leads to root rot, especially if the potting medium is old, compacted, heavy, and has poor drainage. Mushy tissue, wilting, and pink or reddish discolorations on the leaves are characteristics of Christmas cactus. An unpleasant odor in the soil is another indicator of root rot. An injured plant needs to be re-potted into brand-new, unused medium and let to dry out for two to three weeks. Trim away any severely harmed leaves, and then gradually bring the plant back to its regular watering schedule by letting the top inch of soil go completely dry in between applications. In case the primary plant doesn’t recover, it is typically a good idea to snip off a few of the healthy pieces and have them re-rooted in a different container. In any case, you will have a backup, especially if it is a special or beloved hue.

Can root rot be prevented in cacti?

While skin-deep disorders in the upper body of the cactus can be easily handled, those that have spread to the roots typically result in a plant that is slowly dying. Excision of the diseased tissue works successfully for the majority of cacti. Dig out the damaged flesh with a clean, sharp knife, then let the hole dry out. When the wound is healing, avoid overhead watering.

There is not much you can do if the roots have been affected by the harm. You could attempt to repot the plant by removing the unhealthy soil and adding sterile soil in its place. Before replotting the roots in a new potting medium, thoroughly wash the roots out.

Taking cuttings and allowing them to grow roots for a brand-new plant is another way to salvage a mushy, soft cactus. Before inserting the cutting into the sand, let it a few days to callus over. The cutting may need to be rooted for several weeks. A healthy cactus that looks exactly like the parent plant will be created using this method of propagation.

How does root rot appear?

Root rot is frequently difficult to identify until significant harm has been done. Slow growth, squishy stems, and wilting, yellow, deformed leaves are indications of root rot (especially when the plant has been well watered, as wilting leaves can also be a sign of a dry plant). Usually the soil will smell rotten and the roots will appear to be reddish brown.

The best course of action is to remove and replace the plant if root rot symptoms have been found. The plant frequently can’t change its direction.

How would a sick Christmas cactus appear?

The most frequent issues with Christmas cacti are rots, which include basal stem rot and root rot.

  • Stem rot: Basal stem rot can be easily identified by the development of a brown, water-soaked area at the base of the stem. It typically occurs in cool, damp soil. Eventually, the lesions move up the plant’s stem. Unfortunately, basal stem rot usually results in death since the illness must be removed from the plant’s base, which destroys the plant’s structural support. The ideal option is to establish a new plant from a leaf that is in good health.
  • Plants with root rot are similarly tough to rescue. The illness can be recognized by the plants’ wilted appearance and their wet, black or reddish-brown roots, which eventually lead them to die. If you identify the disease early, you might be able to rescue the plant. Take the cactus out of its container. Trim decaying parts and rinse the roots to get rid of the fungus. Repot the plant in a container with potting soil designed for succulents and cacti. A drainage hole must be present in the pot.

Due to the difficulty in identifying specific infections and the need for a distinct fungicide for each pathogen, fungicides are frequently useless. Water the plant thoroughly, but only until the potting soil feels just a little bit dry, to avoid rot. Don’t let the plant stand in water and let the pot drain. During the winter, water only when necessary, but never let the potting mix go completely dry.

Why does my Christmas cactus appear lifeless?

Lack of water or much sunlight can occasionally result in wilted or weak Christmas cacti. Start by giving the wilting Christmas cactus a small amount of water if you haven’t been watering it. Every few days, continue to water carefully until the soil is barely damp.

Christmas cactus issues can also result from excessively damp soil. The Christmas cactus cannot tolerate wet roots since it is an epiphyte in its natural habitat on the ground of tropical forests, where it takes moisture and nutrients from the air. The roots of Christmas cacti can become excessively wet and floppy because to poor drainage.

Move your wilted or limp Christmas cactus to a location with more shade, especially in the afternoon, if the leaves look dried or burned.

How can I cure a Christmas cactus that is too wet?

Don’t worry if your plant starts to show symptoms because overwatering is one of the common Christmas cactus issues. Move swiftly to remove any standing water, then take the plant carefully out of its container. Eliminate any stems that have begun to soften. Rinse the roots to get rid of any fungus that may have developed, and then leave them to air dry on the counter for a day.

The following morning, repot the plant and let it a few days to dry out before starting a normal watering schedule. The plant should recover if you caught it in time. As the Christmas cactus may not be able to endure another disease, use your soil meter to prevent any other issues.

Just in Case!

One of the simplest plants from which to take cuttings is the Christmas cactus. Pick healthy stems and start the roots by putting them in a glass of water, perlite, or vermiculite. For better drainage, put them in a mixture of one part sand, one part potting soil, and one part orchid bark.

To encourage the evaporation of extra moisture, use an unglazed pot. By doing this, you can be sure that you won’t ever have to worry about trying to save an overwatered Christmas cactus again. Up until a few weeks prior to the blossoming season, provide full sun. Then, to encourage blossoming, give it a minimum of 14 hours of darkness each day. For this time, stop watering as well. You’ll soon have a festive cactus to add color to your celebrations and share with friends and family.

How frequently should a Christmas cactus be watered?

Christmas cacti are highly common indoor plants, and for good reason too! They produce vibrant, tubular flowers that are pink or purple in hue when they bloom. They are a superb plant because of their lovely blossoms, lengthy bloom period, and simple maintenance needs. Someone in your family most likely owns a Christmas cactus!

About Christmas Cacti

The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and its cousins don’t exist in hot, arid conditions like deserts or plains, in contrast to other cacti. These epiphytic succulents, which grow on tree branches and take in the high humidity, dappled sunlight, and moderate temperatures, are actually endemic to the tropical rainforests of southern Brazil.

Bottom line: Don’t handle a Christmas cactus like a typical succulent or cactus. They are unable to withstand the same kind of hot, dry weather that other cactus can. These cacti require more frequent watering than most succulents, but you also need to be careful not to overwater them. (See the care guidelines in more detail below.)

Thanksgiving, Easter, or Christmas Cactus?

The Easter cactus (S. gaertneri), Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata), and Christmas cactus are the three main varieties of “holiday cacti” that are available (S. x buckleyi). The holiday that each cactus is named after often sees the most blooming. Thanksgiving cacti, which often bloom from November to February and hence go unrecognized as Christmas cacti, make up the majority of “Christmas cacti” sold nowadays. See our post on the several Christmas cacti species and how to distinguish them for more information.

Note: Because it’s the most widely used term and it applies to all three of these species, we’ll refer to all three of them on this page as “Christmas cactus” for simplicity’s sake.

Potting Christmas Cacti

  • Choose a pot with a drainage hole on the bottom if you’re choosing one for a Christmas cactus. This prevents the soil from getting overly saturated.
  • Most succulent-specific potting mixtures work well for Christmas cacti growth. It’s crucial that your potting soil drains properly.

Where to Put a Christmas Cactus

  • Plants should be kept in indirect light that is bright. The best location has an east-facing window or a well-lit bathroom. The delicate leaves might be bleached by too much direct sunshine.
  • It is preferable to have a daytime temperature of 70F (21C) and an evening temperature of 60–65F (15–18C).
  • Christmas cacti do well in a more humid climate, so keeping them in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen is a smart idea.
  • Christmas cacti can be kept in a shady area of the garden or on an unheated porch during the summer until the temperature drops below 50F. (10C). Keep them away from the sun’s rays outside.

How to Care for Christmas Cacti

  • Water your plants every two to three weeks, but only when the top third of the soil feels dry to the touch. If the plant is in 6 inches of soil, for instance, water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. (Check with your finger!)
  • When the soil is completely dry, wet it until water seeps through the drainage holes in the pot. To collect the water, put a tray underneath the pot. To prevent the pot from sitting in water, remove any extra water on the tray after 10 to 15 minutes.
  • While the plant is in bloom, it’s very crucial to water thoroughly.
  • Feed your indoor plants with a balanced houseplant fertilizer every two weeks from spring through early fall. Feed the cactus once a month in the fall and winter to promote fruitful blooming.
  • To promote branching and more flowers, prune plants in the late spring. Simply cut a portion of each stem off; the plant will grow new branches from the incision.
  • If desired, plant the cut pieces in potting soil that is only gently damp; they will easily root after a few weeks and make wonderful Christmas gifts!

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom

The longer evenings and chilly weather of fall are what cause Christmas cacti and its relatives to bloom. The three major varieties of holiday cacti typically bloom on the following schedule:

  • Thanksgiving cactus typically produce flowers from late October through mid-winter, making them the earliest and longest bloomers.
  • Christmas cacti often bloom in the early to midwinter months.
  • Easter cacti flower around the middle of spring through late winter.

If your cactus isn’t flowering, it can be getting too much light or being exposed to too much heat. Here are some suggestions to help you get blooms from yours!

  • For a minimum of six weeks, the nights must be at least 14 hours long and the days between 8 and 10 hours. You might need to cover your cactus or relocate it to an area that is exposed to the natural light cycle if you have powerful interior lighting that is on at night.
  • When the plant is kept at temps between 50 and 60F, flower buds form best (10 and 15C).
  • By subjecting the plant to temps around 45F (7C) for a number of nights in a succession, you can jumpstart the budding process.
  • While the plant is in bloom, be sure to water it consistently. The plant may lose its buds if it dries out too much.
  • Don’t worry if the cactus loses its buds one winter; the following year it should bloom.

The three primary varieties of “holiday cacti” are as follows:

  • Often mistaken for Christmas cacti, Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera truncata) bloom from late October to mid-winter.
  • Christmas cacti (S. x buckleyi) flower in the early to midwinter months.
  • Late winter to mid-spring is the blooming period for Easter cacti (S. gaertneri).
  • Make sure to water your Christmas cactus frequently and keep it cool when the buds on the plant appear ready to open.
  • The optimum time to propagate cuttings is late spring when most holiday cacti start to grow after their winter hibernation.

Blossom loss: Your Christmas cactus will probably lose its blossoms if it experiences any kind of stress. As mentioned in the plant care section above, this could be caused by the amount of light or a sudden shift in temperature. Make sure your soil doesn’t become overly dry while buds are developing.

The plant could be vulnerable to mealy bugs and root rot if overwatered. If you experience issues, remove the affected sections and repot the plant in fresh soil.