What Are The Three Types Of Christmas Cactus

Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus, and Easter cactus are the three popular holiday cacti, each of which is called after the season in which its blooms occur. All three are straightforward to cultivate and have comparable growth patterns and maintenance needs.

Today’s holiday cactus variations are available in magenta, pink, scarlet, as well as yellow, white, orange, purple, salmon, and apricot, however these well-known cacti are typically only available in red-hued hues. The Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are tropical rain forest species, while the Easter cactus is indigenous to Brazil’s natural woods. All three are endemic to Brazil.

What kind of Christmas cactus do I have, and how do I know?

Your cactus can be identified by its leaf form. The leaves of the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) have sharp protrusions that resemble crab claws. The leaves of the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesti) have rounded or teardrop-shaped projections.

What three holiday cacti are there?

Did you know that there are cactus for Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter? The key variations between various holiday cacti are listed below, along with advice on how to take care of your cactus so that it continues to bloom.

Brazilian forest cacti are the parent species of holiday cacti such the Christmas cactus, Thanksgiving cactus, and Easter cactus. The names of the holidays correspond to the several North American cacti’s blooming seasons!

The Easter cactus is in the genus Rhipsalidopsis, which grows in dry woodlands, while the Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are Schlumbergera species.

Christmas Cactus

The resilient plant that our grandmothers raised is called the Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii). I have a plant that was developed from a cutting my mother-in-law acquired more than 70 years ago! They are the ideal plant to pass along because they are so simple to root. Simply cut a bit of one of the branches in the shape of a “Y” and place it in a pot of sterile soil or vermiculite. It will quickly begin to root.

Thanksgiving Cactus

The Schlumbergera truncata, sometimes known as the “Thanksgiving Cactus,” blooms normally from mid-November to late December and occasionally even into January. It gets its common name “crab cactus” from the shape of its square leaf segments, which have pincer-like hooks on one end and along the edges. It is indigenous to Brazil, where hummingbirds pollinate its 2 to 3 inch long, satiny blossoms.

Easter Cactus

It may very possibly be an Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri), which blooms in late winter and spring, often from March to May, if you discover that your holiday cactus has spring flowers.

The Easter Cactus, also known as a “Spring Cactus, features trumpet-shaped, flaring flowers with pointed petals that are typically pink but can also be red, orange, and other cherry colors. Their several-week-long star-shaped petals have an opening at dawn and a closing at dusk. They have segments of flat, succulent leaves.

More Ways to Tell a Christmas Cactus from a Thanksgiving Cactus

A large portion of the plants for sale are hybrid crosses of the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti (Schlumbergera x buckleyi), which come in a wide spectrum of exotic hues like orange, purple, yellow, red, pink, white, and two-tones.

Look at the flower’s bloom color and flowering pattern:

  • The magenta-hued hanging blossoms of the Christmas cactus bloom naturally close to Christmas. Late November until early February is when flowers typically begin to bloom.
  • The Thanksgiving cactus comes in a variety of hues and has flowers that face outward. Compared to the Christmas cactus, this plant blooms closer to Thanksgiving. Very late in October or early November, it may begin to bloom.

Additionally, they have various stems:

  • The flattened stem segments of the genuine Christmas cactus have smooth, scalloped edges.
  • The stem of the Thanksgiving cactus bears two to four sharp teeth.
  • The Thanksgiving cactus has stems that initially grow straight before arching, in contrast to the Christmas cactus, whose stems dangle down like pendents.

Because it blooms around the time of the American Thanksgiving, Thanksgiving cacti are what are typically sold in nurseries and retail establishments. The Christmas cactus is also more challenging to export since the stems are more brittle and frequently break.

Caring For Your Holiday Cactus

The holiday cactus is a unique kind of the plant. The Christmas plant, unlike the desert cactus that we are all know with, is an epiphyte that thrives in decaying leaf litter on the branches and in the forks of trees in tropical rain forests in South America.

  • Even though the conditions in our homes are nothing like those in the natural rainforest where they live, they are perfectly fine at the typical household temperature of 65 to 70F, with a decrease to 55 to 60F at night. When it is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, they will require protection.
  • You should offer these cactus acidic, well-draining soils because they prefer their forest floor. Add perlite, vermiculite, and orchid bark to a cactus mixture.
  • They want bright light but not direct sunlight, so a window facing east or west works best. It indicates too much light if the leaves become yellow. Keep them behind a shade tree or patio if you place them outside during the warmer months. not in direct sunlight.
  • Water the plants when the top 2 inches of the soil feel dry, allowing them to dry out between waterings. Avoid overwatering; this is the main cause of their death in our houses. Overwatering is better than neglect! To determine when to water, you could purchase a hydrometer. Keep them out of the water; if they become too soaked, they will rot.
  • Frequent misting of the plants increases humidity.
  • Optional: Use an all-purpose fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow Tomato water-soluble fertilizer, to fertilize them (1 tablespoon to a gallon of non-chlorinated water). Feed the plant while it is actively developing twice a month (usually spring and summer).

How to Keep Holiday Cactus Blooming

Short days and mild nights are the secret to making your holiday cactus bloom. Before they will begin to set buds, they require 13 hours of darkness and nights that are between 50 and 55 degrees for at least a month or two. Some of my plants spend the summer outside, and I don’t bring them inside for the fall and winter until the temperatures start to dip below 50 degrees. They typically develop a bud right away and then begin to bloom. The plants that I have growing in my kitchen need no particular care, and they still thrive. Why, yes!

Only repot the plants if they are really crowded because they flower best when they are slightly potbound. Don’t be hesitant to bring one home for the holidays because they are non-toxic to cats and dogs, unlike many festive plants.

How can you distinguish a Thanksgiving cactus from a Christmas cactus?

The holiday season has here, which not only calls for decorations but also festive plants! At this time of year, there are many lovely holiday plants to pick from, whether they are bought from a florist, nursery, or are grown at home. The Christmas cactus is one of the most popular plants to give or receive at this time of year. Or is it a Thanksgiving or Easter cactus?

The three cacti differ from one another in terms of how their leaves are shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumgera truncata) are very sharply pointed and shaped like claws. The leaf projections of the Christmas cactus (Schlumgera bridgesti) are more scalloped or teardrop shaped. The edges of the leaves of the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerrii) are extremely rounded and centered.

These three cacti are all classified as short-day plants. Therefore, the plant needs low temperatures and 12–24 hours of darkness in order to bloom. If you overwintered your plant outside or bought it from a florist or nursery, you should keep it in a cold, dark place until the buds appear. The optimum location is an infrequently used bedroom or lower level. The Easter cactus gets its name from the fact that it takes 8–12 weeks of short days to bloom as opposed to the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti’s roughly six weeks. It can be brought into a warmer environment once the buds start to form for your enjoyment. At this stage, a plant may occasionally start to lose its buds. That might be caused by air currents, warm temperatures, an abundance of water, or direct sunlight. Bright light is good for the plants, but not direct sunlight. Before watering, the soil should be completely dry to one inch below the surface. Fertilizing or repotting shouldn’t be done when the plant is in bloom. The plants appear to thrive when they are root-bound.

You might see the Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus bloom once more in the spring, though perhaps not as lavishly as over the holiday season. Simply restore the plant to its short day settings to promote springtime blooming.

Unless they are overwatered, these plants are generally disease-free. If the plant turns crimson, there is either too much sun, not enough phosphorus, or not enough water. There are rumors of plants that have been passed down from generation to generation for more than a century. Take advantage of these easygoing holiday plants and establish a new gardening custom. Call the Linn County Master Gardener Hortline at 319-447-0647 with any and all of your gardening inquiries.

What distinguishes Christmas cactus from counterfeit Christmas cactus?

My mother used to refer to her Christmas cactus as a Thanksgiving cactus since it would be fully bloomed by the end of November when I was a child. I was a good boy and never questioned or challenged Mom. Mom was correct, and that was twenty or so years and a couple advanced degrees later. Schlumbergera truncata, the well-liked plant that is currently showing up in garden centers for the holiday season, is also known as the Thanksgiving or false Christmas cactus.

We must delve farther into the passionate love affair with the Christmas cactus in order to overcome this deceit. When we turn the clock 177 years back to 1840s England, we find William Buckley, a committed gardener, and his experiment of a Schlumbergera hybrid between two species. He combined S. truncata with S. russelliana to produce the S. x buckleyi hybrid, which was known as the real Christmas cactus. As you read this at home, you might be tempted to quickly explore the internet. If you do, you might find some outdated literature that refers to this cross incorrectly as S. bridgesii, which would add another degree of dishonesty. There are certainly some older works of literature that use Zygocactus as the genus.

You need to know a few more things at this point because you are horrifiedly staring at your fake Christmas cactus and unsure of where to look for the real one. You need to know a little bit about botany and it is difficult to pick out the imposters. The Schlumbergera’s “leaves” are actually flattened stalks known as cladophyll (phylloclades by some botanist). The faux Christmas cactus will have stems with an open branch habit and soft points or teeth around the borders. These points are simply a part of the stem that is heavily lobed; they are not spines. False Christmas cactus flowers will be cheerful and vibrant in hues of pink, white, peach, and salmon. They will be held for around 5 to 7 days at the tip of the stems, pointing slightly upward. Additionally, the blossoms will appear somewhat horizontal or flat. The stems of the genuine Christmas cactus will significantly arch downward and have a closed habit. The stems will have rounded edges with tiny, discernible points or nubs. The blossoms of a genuine Christmas cactus will be more spherical than those of an impostor, point downward, and follow the stem’s orientation. Reds, pinks, and carmine will be the colors.

You might come across the Easter cactus Rhipsalidopsis gaeteneri, a close relative of Schlumbergera as you go out on your quest to find the genuine Christmas cactus. You’ll be relieved to learn that they are rarely provided and have little commercial significance in the garden retail sector. Additionally, as their name suggests, they bloom in the spring. However, if you do come upon one, what’s another plant, right?

Last but not least, I’m sure you read this article and only glanced at the genus name since, like me, you find it difficult to say (shlum-BER-ger-uh), and I doubt that did anything to assist. Just some quick information The Cactaceae family of real cactus includes the Schlumbergera, which thrives in environments that we typically do not connect with cacti. They inhabit trees like orchids and are found deep within South America’s tropical rainforest.

Wishing you luck on your exploration and do let me know if you add a genuine Christmas cactus to your collection.

A true Christmas cactus is what?

Weihnachtskakteen Schlumbergera bridgestii “Christmastime is a rare time to find true Christmas cacti for sale. The branches of these plants drop downward like pendants, and their leaf segments are smooth and scalloped. The plant is more fragile than the Thanksgiving Cactus, making shipping more challenging.

Schlumbergera truncata, the Thanksgiving Cactus Around the holidays, this is the plant that you will probably find for sale being marketed as a “Cactus of Christmas. In contrast to the “real Christmas Cactus,” which has scalloped leaves, these plants’ leaves have pointed “hooks” that set them apart from their closely related relatives. As opposed to the Christmas Cactus, which has more pendulous branches, its branches arch UP before hanging down.

Tropical plants with South and Central American native ranges include Christmas cactus. Although they are not true cacti, they do grow in a setting resembling that of epiphytic orchids in the forks of tree branches, where they thrive in decomposing leaves and other organic matter that gathers there. Can you picture seeing these in full bloom high in the trees?

Your Christmas cactus will most likely be in bud and bloom when you get it home. If at all feasible, place the plant in bright light in a humid environment to avoid bud drop. As the water evaporates, placing them on a saucer or tray with pea gravel and water will enhance the humidity around the plant. They won’t grow as well if you position them near a door, heating ducts, a fireplace, or other drafty spots.

Water less regularly during the flowering period and for approximately a month after it, letting the soil dry in between applications, than you would in the spring and summer. When you do water, keep in mind to water WELL.